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Originally Posted by deerhunter I agree that Rolex is the ultimate watch brand for most layfolks. But even for horological aficionados, Rolex is one of the best at that price range. This is because movement matters. All of the Rolex movements are in-house since ages. But most of the other brands in that price range either use a ETA movement or started developing in-house movements only recently.
..Because at this price range, history and heritage is what matters more than functionality. So a history of in-house movement making is always a plus point, which many in this price range do not have. |
I do agree partially, but I have a twist to add here. What Rolex did was basically, start building a movement based on several inventions of watchmaking giants in those times. This may also be surprising to people but Rolex is kind of a baby when compared to the legit Swiss watches (Rolex orignated in London), its merely 112 years old whereas the likes of VC, Breguet, Blancpain are easily twice that age and few other like JLC & IWC are 150+/-, they all added critical improvements and features to the wristwatch that made it what it is today. Some examples :
- Breguet with their legendary overcoil hairspring, a concept Rolex fully "implemented" in their movements, its a slight tweak to the hairspring such that the winding in and out are more regulated.
- Jaeger LeCoultre invented the ultra-thin calibre, the first watch winding crown, Reverso case, and millionometre benchmark for measuring precision.
- IWC was the first to put a pocket-watch caliber into their Portuguese line for precise measuring of time, they also invented the Pellaton winding (dual side winding system for automatic) and Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar system, both patents they own and cannot be used by anyone else.
Also most of the brands in the first 3 tiers are absolute specialists in complications, they know how to make an annual calendar, perpetual calendar, flying tourbillion, gyrotourbillion (JLC patent), grand sonnerie (gong) and also work with exotic materials like titanium, platinum, carbon fibre, ceramic etc. To me, the expertise in complications are an absolute must to remotely qualify to be a luxury watch, a form of jewelry for men so to speak.
I know Rolex is good, but they aren't THAT good. Their know-how ends at basic time, date and at best, day complication.
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Originally Posted by deerhunter They maybe part of the same group, but they are separate companies. ETA supplies movements to non swatch brands too(eg: IWC). A movement is considered in-house if they are made within the same company. ETA is a different legal entity compared to Omega and Tissot. Anyway, Omega now uses in-house movements for most of their models. Orient is an affordable watch, not a luxury one. Orient, Seiko (not Grand Seiko), Tissot, Victorinox etc can be clubbed together as affordable watches. |
The Omega in-house too is very similar to an ETA/Sellita base, their single change is their slightly over-publicised co-axial escapement (which is again, an invention of a private watchmaker). Basically makes the movement last longer and with wider service intervals is all. Agree on the ratings part, Orient is in the league of Tissot, Seiko and others.
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Originally Posted by 14000rpm I chanced upon speaking to a Patek Philippe Horologist whilst on a flight. This conversation sparked my interest in mechanical watches and one of them caught my - MB&F HM4 Thundebolt. Pure Art. The attention to details is mind-blowing. |
Its an achievement without doubt, but I feel the precision won't be quite there in models like HM4, it has dual mainsprings driving the vertical gears but still gravity will reduce precision and there's no way a tourbillion will help either given the position of the dial. Max Busser likes to call it mechanical art and I agree. I feel cars and watches are cliched now, here's my favourite from MB&F- the Aquapod, looks exactly like a jellyfish on the wrist.
Here's a video of a Christophe Claret super-fun watch, would cost a bomb (ultra high-end league) but wow, the complications are ridiculous :