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Originally Posted by WindRide Most old jewellery were not 22ct gold. Older jewellery had less gold and more copper and other metals to make the alloy stronger. That's why old jewellery is longer lasting than the newer 22ct jewellery which thins out at joints and breaks within an year or two. |
It is not "less strong," it is softer and more malleable, ie it scratches and bends more easily. it doesn't, of itself, break more easily; in fact more malleable might mean the very opposite.
However, the trade tries to make low-cost jewellery look bigger, and that, for the same weight, means making it
thinner, That is why some of these pieces will be more fragile.
There is no particular reason that jewellery should fall apart at the joints, except for it having been badly made, or, as per above, simply too thin to realistically support the design. Precious metal solders will always contain a lesser proportion of the precious metal than the parts they are joining, because they have to melt at a lower temperature! Yes, I know this is a very simplistic statement of the science of solder alloys, but it is the essence of it.
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When you buy new jewellery, you pay a "making" charge (differs according to the complexity of the item - intricate designs can go upto 20% or more) in addition to value of the gold and other embelishments in it. So the more attractive the design the more you shell out as "making" charge.
And when you go to exchange or sell old jewellery, the jeweller values only the gold content in it. Everything else goes to the trash can - stones, enamel, sweat, dirt, grime, etc, etc. Makes sense, if you think about it.
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I had a conversation with a lady from Kokotta who maintained that wastage was only charged on
buying back, not on
selling new gold. Is it a regional thing? It is certainly charged when buying gold jeweller here. Does that mean it could be 10% cheaper elsewhere? Or do they just call the surcharge something else?
Of course there is profit built into the system. It is necessary to pay everyone from the craftsmen to the sales chain. It is even necessary for the suppliers of metal to the trade to make a profit. Buy some gold sheet or wire, say 22ct: the price you pay will be based on 22/24ths of the day's pure-gold price, plus a little for the other metals in the alloy and the melting/casting/rolling/drawing/etc process and... a little profit of course.
Way back then, when this was my hobby, I used to have the rule-of-thumb formula for looking at the day's gold [UK] price and the newspaper, and answering the question,
so what will I actually pay when I buy 9/18/22ct sheet or wire? Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha1 They have been accepting this because gold as an asset is a distant secondary role (and only to justify the purchase to the menfolk).
The primary role is adornment, for which women usually do not bargain that well.
If asset was the primary aim of Indian women, then the sale of biscuits would've dwarfed the sale of jewellery. |
I'm not Indian, so forgive me if Ihave a mistaken stereotype here, but I have been led, over the years, to understand that gold is the woman's savings account, and that they rotation of it ensures that there will always be pawn shops, as well as jewellers, in the street.
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Originally Posted by TheTeacher Somebody I know did some consulting for a jeweler (reputed nationwide). He said that mostly, it is a small scale industry; the business gives gold to clusters of small-time jewelers who do the actual work. The maximum wastage these craftsmen are allowed is, hold your breath, 1%! |
That does not surprise me at all. Having never done this on an actual commercial basis, I do not know how fair it is. The amount of actually-wasted material is kept as small as possible, but there are always, as in any trade, scraps and offcuts. This is either melted and reused by the makers themselves, or sold back to the suppliers. Of course, they pay slightly less to buy scrap than to sell sheet.
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Most of the jewellery we have purchased was at 20% wastage nominal, with "I have charged you 2% less wastage sir", so 18% wastage. On top of this, there are making charges for which there is also a generous 5% discount! No wonder it is an extremely profitable business.
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Yes, this is what I see as the great scam, of which few seem to be aware.
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This consultant further said that as a profession, it is entered into by boys around 10-12 years of age. The working life is only 10-12 years because of the toxic fumes they inhale while working. Many apparently go blind, become sick or disabled in their early twenties and are unable to work thereafter. He was trying to organize them into co-ops so they can have medical care and a pension when they can't work anymore.
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A working life of 10-12 years for a jeweller is absurd! He should turn his attention to some basic industrial safety, such as extractor fans.
As far as I can remember, there is no reason at all to
poison oneself
making jewellery. Over the years that I did it as a hobby, there were several when my bench was set up in the corner of my bedroom. It did not kill me.
The process that worries me is
electroplating. I see the "polishers" working from tiny cubbyhole shops, or even on the street. They do not have any protection from fumes, and, when I last looked (granted it was a while ago and might be out of date), gold plating required the use of cyanide compounds.
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I am equally guilty as anybody for buying jewellery for the wife and kid, but it seems to be tainted stuff with bad karma attached.
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Not
intrinsically so, but every industry has its sweatshops. You might be acquiring worse karma when you buy their clothes!