[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by govigov

Thank you, sgiitk!

I really liked the LG water purifier. But decided to get Kent pearl, because of a 13k difference that I could not justify the LG. 16k vs 29k..

With Kent you cannot go very wrong. The Kent chap is incidentally ex-IITK. See I live in Kanpur but our experience with ROs is with from Gurugram. We were in a rented flat for three years. We occupied in from new. For two years it was excellent, but then failures set in. On inquiry it turned out to be common with Kent. So when moving flats we had to get a new RO unit. We were advised to prefer ZeroB since the price is about the same and the failure rate is far lower. So far it has been less than two years, so too early to comment on the durability.

[RajaTaurus]

Originally Posted by JKBKS

Hi Raja,

I have been using RO systems for some time now and am at a point where i need to replace my current RO (Aquafresh). I live in Bangalore and did some research based on which i understand that RO is an overkill if you live in a city getting municipal water (am in Bangalore) and one can get good enough protection using any UV system for a municipal water. And its preferable if the water container unit/tank is detachable (enables regular cleaning.My current RO gets opened once a year for cleaning and changing filters).

I liked this idea and based on this, I selected Kent Maxx (having Sediment & Activated Carbon filters, UV, UF protection and a detachable tank). I also have a prefilter that can be attached before this Kent system. The only downside to this will be a change in taste but we will get used to that eventually

I need to ask you and other experts here if I am thinking in right direction or should i go back to having an RO system? Also in your post #624 you talk about test water quality. So is a digital TDS3/PPM/TEMP meter available online good enough for this or do we need to get the water tested professionally?

RO with a UV is the best and worry-free with regard to micro organisms. I myself don't trust any Municipal water to be safe for drinking purposes. It is the sudden change in quality due to contamination during transmission that worries me.

UF is also a filter and if the pre filtration is not ok or sudden muddy water on the tap, UF gets clogged and need frequent cleaning/ maintenance.

For municipal water you may not need exhaustive tests. That's mainly required for bore well water. Just TDS meter will do.
Your selection should largely serve the purpose.

[JKBKS]

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

Your selection should largely serve the purpose.

Thanks Raja. You mentioned RO with UV to be the best but it seems from your answer that my selection is still not good enough? Is this a right conclusion to draw or should i go ahead with my selection?
Also if its the latter option then can you please also suggest a way (a filter maybe) to improve the taste?

One more query. Is my emphasis on a detachable water tank ok?

[RajaTaurus]

In general, we overkill in terms of RO for domestic use of water.
Municipal water is usually good for cooking, washing, bathing and all other domestic use. Only for drinking direct, it is not suitable because of contamination like coliforms, residual treatment chemicals like Chlorine, ferric chloride, caustic soda etc.
Hence,
1. Install a sediment filter and a candle type cartridge filter in the kitchen and use the output for cooking and washing. Also can be connected to washing machine / dish washer.
2. Install a full fledged RO and UV for "drinking purposes" only. Make sure to fill the RO output directly into tight water bottles. Do not fill in open containers.
The above set up will reduce the capacity required for RO system.
Detachable tank? That's for your convenience.

[JMaruru]

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

In general, we overkill in terms of RO for domestic use of water.
Municipal water is usually good for cooking, washing, bathing and all other domestic use. Only for drinking direct, it is not suitable because of contamination like coliforms, residual treatment chemicals like Chlorine, ferric chloride, caustic soda etc.
Hence,
1. Install a sediment filter and a candle type cartridge filter in the kitchen and use the output for cooking and washing. Also can be connected to washing machine / dish washer.
2. Install a full fledged RO and UV for "drinking purposes" only. Make sure to fill the RO output directly into tight water bottles. Do not fill in open containers.
The above set up will reduce the capacity required for RO system.
Detachable tank? That's for your convenience.

How about boiling the water 15 mins for drinking purpose. This is after the above step#1.

Would this NOT be suffice, to make all impurities/bacteria/germs/chemicals ineffective?

[JKBKS]

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

In general, we overkill in terms of RO for domestic use of water.
Municipal water is usually good for cooking, washing, bathing and all other domestic use. Only for drinking direct, it is not suitable because of contamination like coliforms, residual treatment chemicals like Chlorine, ferric chloride, caustic soda etc.
Hence,
1. Install a sediment filter and a candle type cartridge filter in the kitchen and use the output for cooking and washing. Also can be connected to washing machine / dish washer.
2. Install a full fledged RO and UV for "drinking purposes" only. Make sure to fill the RO output directly into tight water bottles. Do not fill in open containers.
The above set up will reduce the capacity required for RO system.
Detachable tank? That's for your convenience.

Thanks again for the detailed info and clarity. I was asking from drinking water purposes only. So will go back to the RO now. Was looking for a detachable tank to ensure regular cleaning instead of once a year cleaning. Guess its not a big thing then.

[RajaTaurus]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

How about boiling the water 15 mins for drinking purpose. This is after the above step#1.

Would this NOT be suffice, to make all impurities/bacteria/germs/chemicals ineffective?

Boiling only kills micro living organisms in water. Other inorganic impurities/ chemicals etc. remain in water. After boiling, theoretically you 'must filter the water and fill in air tight containers. Leaving the boiled water open in air for even 30 minutes will gather bacteria and viruses from the air.
So, boil and drink - that is the rule.

Originally Posted by JKBKS

Thanks again for the detailed info and clarity. I was asking from drinking water purposes only. So will go back to the RO now. Was looking for a detachable tank to ensure regular cleaning instead of once a year cleaning. Guess its not a big thing then.

Right. Once in a year cleaning will suffice. Moreover, there will be level sensors inside the tank and you don't want to mess with it frequently while cleaning.

[RSimonS]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Basically water treatment is done in steps

here are some links
https://www.espwaterproducts.com/
http://www.filterwater.com/
http://www.aquaconditioners.com/whol...SAAEgJt-vD_BwE

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

^^Please read post #624 in this same thread for more clarity on terms like TDS and it's removal methods.

Thanks a lot for the help and details. Very good details to look at.

Do you know what would be the pH of water post RO?
Would presence of sodium create any complications for us in future?

[RajaTaurus]

Normally RO doesn't alter pH of water significantly. So, it remains in the range of 6-7 for treatment plant product water. In large RO plants we add CO2 and Lime as post treatment to control pH and taste.
Sodium is not a big contributor in brackish or Municipal water, so not to worry about it. Only in seawater it is found in abundance, which will be effectively blocked by RO.

[JKBKS]

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

Right. Once in a year cleaning will suffice. Moreover, there will be level sensors inside the tank and you don't want to mess with it frequently while cleaning.

Ordered a Livpure RO+UV today from Amazon sale for 8k. Also my TDS meter arrived. East Bangalore tap water is 132 (really surprised!!!). My about to be replaced RO with all blocked filters is still churning out 55 TDS and a Brita water filter is giving out 92.

Need to ask what should be the TDS level for my new RO, if I get that option?

[RajaTaurus]

For an input of 200 ppm TDS, you should get 20 ppm in RO output. Once the system is installed, use the TDS meter for random checks.
Remember, as your system gets clogged, only your recovery % will reduce and TDS will not change. If there is any big change in taste, test for TDS increase. If TDS is high, it means your RO membrane is DAMAGED. Replace it.
A clogged system needs cleaning/ backwashing.
Only damaged cartridges need replacement.
These are some tips for long life of the system.

[JKBKS]

Originally Posted by RajaTaurus

For an input of 200 ppm TDS, you should get 20 ppm in RO output. Once the system is installed, use the TDS meter for random checks.
Remember, as your system gets clogged, only your recovery % will reduce and TDS will not change. If there is any big change in taste, test for TDS increase. If TDS is high, it means your RO membrane is DAMAGED. Replace it.
A clogged system needs cleaning/ backwashing.
Only damaged cartridges need replacement.
These are some tips for long life of the system.

Thanks again sir. Will keep all this in mind. New RO will be installed on Monday/Tuesday. But please tell me what should be the TDS level of the new RO should be set at? Is it 75 or 100 or 150/200?

Also would it help if I place 2 Prefilters ahead of the new RO (have got 2 lying around ) or just 1 prefilter is good enough?

[RajaTaurus]

Initial setting for new should be as low as possible. Setting higher output TDS only mixes inlet raw water with RO output, which myself don't prefer at all.

Adding more pre filters reduces suction pressure of high pressure pump, which in turn might reduce Permeating pressure. So add pre filter only if necessary.

[.sushilkumar]

Need Help.

I have a Kent Grand RO + UV Under AMC with Kent. My experience is that every alternate time a engineer comes for service, One or other filter is ready to get replaced. It doesn't help that in past 2 years, i have seen same guys coming and conning me. Escalating to Kent and getting some body else to look at filter is like playing music in front of buffalo. Either they have got illiterate people manning the help line or their they have been brain washed to the core. I cannot think of anything else. .

Repeated requests for diff engg is turned down by Kent. Another strange thing for which, i plan to send a complaint against Kent is the availability id spares in open market. They proudly claim that i must buy from them and there is no way out. Isn't that against fair play. I remember a ruling that spares must be available in open market.

Strangely the so called engg's never write the filter change requirements on call sheet. They will write that on back of call sheet that too when asked specifically else you forget about call sheet as well. For them if There is a change in TDS, filters are bad. At time, I think they have microscopic vision that just by looking at filters, they can find out if they are good or bad

Latest is that they want me to spend another 2750 Rs for changing the RO membrane and FRT. Is there any place where i can source these at reasonable cost. i am in NCR and any help will be appreciated.

[NH7]

We have an aquaguard invisipure RO system installed for about 2.5 years now. I'm not entirely happy with the product or the service till date. Granted, we chose the product without much research, but it's a water purifier after all, it's Eureka- Forbes, it's ' top of the line', and it fit my space/mounting requirements nicely.
I've had to change the filters thrice, RO membrane twice, power supply unit once, and tubing so many times, that my wife and domestic help can do it by themselves now!
I decided that I'd had enough with Dr Aquaguard service, and now do the following;
1. Clean the overhead tank frequently.
2. Flush the line leading to the inlet connection.
3. Stock a full set of filters, bought on Amazon.
4. Part of the tubing between inlet stop cock and utility space cabinet was exposed to sunlight- moss buildup and brittle failures. New tubing is wrapped with Denso tape!
5. Studied the plumbing of the purifier, and asked an independent service guy to fit a non return valve before the reservoir. Can't believe that it wasn't there!
6. Covered the electricals with clingwrap.

Thankfully all is well since, though I cannot digest 2 facts.
1. Reject water to purified water ratio is almost 1:1
2. Sum of all the parts( cost)( except stuff like frame/ backing plate, filter housing, power cord and bolts/nuts) is quite a bit lower than what I paid for the full unit!!