[bottle]

I'm running a 2T A/c and the previous stabilizer was having a lot of trouble coping with the line voltage which was around 150V or so. Also the a/c switch was a 20A one and kept tripping.

Just got my VEW500 for 9.8k and so far it seems to be ok along with a new 32A switch.

[jp2u]

Got myself a V-Gaurd VEW500 today. boy-o-boy, its weighing like a elephant

[kaush666]

A/C seems to be struggling. I am thinking its due to voltages most prolly. Any suggestions for a good double boost stabilizer? Something around 150-160V area that can boost to 200+volts. Approximate prices would also help a lot.

Cheers,
K

[Thad E Ginathom]

Both Premier and V Guard make such devices: you can see them on their sites.

I was going to call at Viveks on OMR tonight, on the off chance of an over-the-counter purchase, but I missed the entrance to the service road, and didn't want to stop on the main road. That store is walking distance from my house, but not with a couple of stabilisers in my arms!

Our UPS service man says delivery in three days. Our AC engineer (unbranded boxes) says hopefully tomorrow: everybody is asking for them, and he is hoping to receive ten. His prices are lower too being under 5,000. We plan to get two.

[kaush666]

Thanks Thad! I am planning to go with V-Guard. Will let you guys know once purchase is made regarding cost.

[vijaycool]

Originally Posted by jp2u

Got myself a V-Gaurd VEW500 today. boy-o-boy, its weighing like a elephant

Whats the voltage you are getting in your area?

[Thad E Ginathom]

We are expecting two local-made double boosters from our AC man later today. With any luck, I'll be able to sit up late again tonight. Maybe there are advantages to branded, but we have had no problems with the unbranded unit we bought for the microwave.

It's actually not the temperature that makes me give up: it's the humidity. Last night it was 29C only. That, with AC drying the air, I can live with happily, but without it, it is just so stuffy.

Today's Chennai Good News: Power cuts reduced to one hour a day . But this is of limited usefuleness if they do not deliver sufficient voltage when it is on.

[Thad E Ginathom]

<The Next Evening>

We now have two double-boost stabilisers, one each for our two most vital ACs, one 2-ton, one 1-ton. "Power Magic" --- as supplied, delivered and fitted by our local AC repair man. Total cost, fitted, Rs7,600 for the two.

My hall AC is running properly for the first evening in several days. I'm cool

[santosh9999]

Hello,
I live in Kottivakkam too. Bought a VGuard triple booster VEW 400 for my 1.5 T window AC last week. 7750RS from Mercy Tiruvanmiyur.
The MCB supply to the AC kept tripping yesterday, so had it replaced with a new MCB today. AC worked till about 9 PM. Then, the MCB kept tripping few times. Finally when it did not trip and the AC compressor kicked off..through the triple booster - Phase 1 of the mains fuse was blown.
I switched the phase changer so that the AC used Phase 3. Soon Phase 3 in the mains blew its fuse too.
Now, the house is running on the only remaining Phase 2 and the AC is now turned off for good. Need to fix the fuse tomorrow in the morning.
The input volt was observed to be between 130V to 200V during these events and the VEW 400 should have handled this. However, not only did it not start the compressor, but has consistently blowing the fuse.
I wonder if the earlier post on the higher current rating (from Vijay?) on needing a VEW500 is relevant in my case. In that case, I need to ask Mercy Tiruvanmiyur to swap the VEW400 and provide a VEW500?...but I am not so sure, since the problem seems to be draw current is way more than what the wires could carry?
I read elsewhere that there is always the risk of blowing the fuse due to the excess current flowing through. But, how then does the Triple booster work for some of the others who have written here, without the fuse blowing, like in my case (My house wiring is relatively new)

Any advice on this will be great.

PS: I had the same AC working much better through my Vertex Server stabilizer + Premier single boost stablizer. Had to rewire the servo to the other bedroom, which is why I bought the VGUard VEW 400 for this room..now two fuses are blown and the AC is not running :(

[santosh9999]

Hello,
Another post from a consumer on the web indicates VEW 400 from VGuard is either tripping MCBs or blowing fuses consistently elsewhere too, on a 1.5T AC.

1. Anyone has a 1.5T AC working smoothly through V Guard VEW 400 without blowing the fuse or tripping the MCB? (not VEW 500, but VEW 400)

2. This is the summarized (?!!) version of what I need advise on :
My 1.5T was working fine (until two weeks back) through my 5KVA Vertex Servo stabilizer (minimum input supply needed= 140Volts) + Premier single step stabilizer without any fuse blowing. It worked if mains voltage > 140V.
I would like to have my VEW 400 VGuard stabilizer (minimum input supply needed 100v (current capacity @ 12 Amps)) repeat the same behavior like the Servo without blowing the fuse or burning the wires.

Is that possible with VEW 400?
Or do I have to replace it with a less current drawing stabilizer, like say a double booster VGuard (minimum input supply needed = 140 volts instead of 100 volts)
Or do I look at a VEW 500 (minimum input supply needed = 100 volts, but current capacity is 14 amps)

Caution to those looking for a triple booster:
There are several people looking at purchasing a triple booster/double booster in Chennai. I would like to caution you on the VGuard VEW 400 Triple booster that is known to cause fuse blowing (in my case and another person on FixYa) when used with 1.5T when input voltage goes below 150V. Seems like VEW 500 is working as per other posts in this thread, but I haven't heard VEW 400 with 1.5T AC working fine below 150V.

[bottle]

I had the same problem with the VEW500 as well, it trips the MCB but it doesn't happen regularly and this even used to happen on my old premier double boost.

Originally Posted by vijaycool

Whats the voltage you are getting in your area?

Tagging Vijay for his input

[teky]

Originally Posted by santosh9999

1. Anyone has a 1.5T AC working smoothly through V Guard VEW 400 without blowing the fuse or tripping the MCB? (not VEW 500, but VEW 400)

I've the same configuration and It works perfectly. Did you change the MCB's to C32 at both the ends.mine used to trip often with lower rated MCB.

[vijaycool]

Originally Posted by bottle

I had the same problem with the VEW500 as well, it trips the MCB but it doesn't happen regularly and this even used to happen on my old premier double boost.

Tagging Vijay for his input

@bottle: Thanks for pulling me.

Hey buddy.. no need to be panic. The running current for 1.5T A/C will be close around 8~9 A @ 220V. But the power problem is too much in chennai and mostly we get half the voltage 120~130. This obviously doubles the running current for the A/C. When the compressor starts the motor takes 1.5 times the running current. Also fuse wire rating maynot be optimum thats why you got two blown fuses. I also blew 2 fuses till I upgraded with proper fuse wire. No need to be panic in blowing fuse.
Go to the electrical shop and ask for "fuse wire" . This wire is a mixture of tin, lead and copper. Mostly a single strand of wire is rated 15A (This depends on thickness) better ask the shop keeper for the Amp rating. Read the fuse block mostly its 32A rated. If you get 15A fuse wire then make it double and fix it. It should solve your issues.
Reg. MCB: Check the 'A' rating of your A/C MCB and also in the A/C socket rating. You know what I had 15A rating in the main box and 18A in the A/C socket. Each time when the A/C starts with double booster the main box MCB gives click sound and doesnt trip, but when I used VEW400 It trips. Next day I changed to 23A and there was no problem after that.
VEW400&500 suckks lots of current during the startup unlike other stabilizer I have come across. So better upgrade your fuses and MCB's. Also dont change the rotary switch on the fly when the A/C is on. I blew the fuses because of this.

Regards,
VIjay

[renji3]

I work at a power systems company in Chennai, and it looks to me like the people here in this thread are doing a LOT of dangerous work with electrical equipment!!! In the interest of safety, I wish to add a few points here:

(1) Normally, household wiring is NOT designed to withstand >16 amps of continous current flow (special heavy-duty wires are used very rarely). If you are using using boosters etc. in low voltage conditions, it results in excessive current (18-30 amps) flowing continously through your wires. The copper wire heats up more than usual and the plastic insulation covering it will burn, beyond designed limits. This is a FIRE HAZARD. So check if your wires are really capable of such heavy loads.

(2) Another concern is your electricity meter. Domestic meters are rated for 10-15 amps. This will be stamped visibly on the meter. If you exceed this reqularly, you risk blowing the meter itself. Then your home will be left with NO POWER until the Electricity Board comes to help you!

(3) A quick word about breaker switches (MCB). You will find that your MCB is marked with 20A, 20B, 20C etc., and similarly 16A, 16B, 16C etc. The number (20, 16, 10 etc) is the maximum current beyond which the breaker will trip. The alphabet part (A, B, C) is a code which denotes what type of load is to be connected to the breaker. Thus A and B type breakers are used for normal loads (lights, fans etc) where initial current required is low. But for motors, pumps, A/C etc. the correct type of breaker to use is C. But everybody uses A or B type, because those are cheaper! So if you find your MCB tripping only when the AC compressor comes on, then this could be the problem. So buying a 23A MCB for your 16 amps A/C maybe inviting trouble as given in point (1) above!

[vijaycool]

Originally Posted by renji3

(1) Normally, household wiring is NOT designed to withstand >16 amps of continous current flow (special heavy-duty wires are used very rarely). If you are using using boosters etc. in low voltage conditions, it results in excessive current (18-30 amps) flowing continously through your wires. The copper wire heats up more than usual and the plastic insulation covering it will burn, beyond designed limits. This is a FIRE HAZARD. So check if your wires are really capable of such heavy loads.

You may be right but I still dont see any wire related issues even at 120V. Mostly all new installations will use typical wiring 4.5 Sq.mm wire for upto 1.5T A/C's and 7 Sq.mm for 2T A/C's. Barring older generation A/C's all latest generation use 1800W max which is same as 15 or 20 liter geyser. Being resistive load it sucks current like crazy compared to inductance load. Also the calculator say's upto 2KW @ 120V need 4Sq.mm thick wire, I dont see any issues.
Just checked the house hold meter its 3Ph. 40A meter
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