[amitk26]

Hi,

I have a question about parking norms , Can someone guide me about partial basement parking norms as per BBMP/ BDA ?

The BBMP zoning law says basement projection above ground should not be more than 1.2 m and clearance from floor to ceiling should be 2.4 m (7.87 feet) minimum. Overall height of building is limited to 11.5 m as per FAR.
For the basement ramp the gradient should be 1 in 10 that means that for going down 1.2 m ( 3.93 feet) the ramp length would be 39 feet.

And basement parking is not allowed in plots smaller than 200 sq m ( so allowed in 40x60 or bigger)

Also the zoning regulations talk about stilt parking where parking is at ground level and minimum clearance should be 7.87 feet and such a parking is called stilt.

However there is no clear mention of the hybrid of the two or what is called
partial basement.

So lets say of size of plot is bigger then 200 sq. m limit and
suppose if one wants to construct a parking such that it is 5.87 feet above ground level and 2 feet below is it legal ? Would it be considered as stilt ?

The reason for limiting to 2 feet is mainly to limit potential water logging issues also want to construct a bedroom on top of it and want to keep level not too much higher from rest of the house. If plinth height of rest of the house is raised to 3 feet then 5.87 feet high basement works well for an MBR on top if it.

What are the ramp and setback required for this arrangement ?

[GRAND23]

Hello All,

On 48th page of this thread, there was a disucssion on GFRG panel construction for structure support.

I am planning to use GFRG panel for second floor. The existing house is built with RCC.

Last week, I had a chance to visit a house which was constructed with GFRG panel in JP nagar, Bangalore. The house is well finished and looks similar to conventional method construction. After conversation with the owner, I am now slowly getting inclined towards this technology.

Before I make a final call, I wanted to know from bhpians (especially civil engineers, construction business) that this technology can be adopted for construction.
Please let me know if there are any drawbacks, maintenance cost, corrosion issues, safety concern (since it's glass fibre panel) with GFRG technology.

The quote I received for GFRG panel technology is 1350/sq-feet, which is better than 1600/sq-feet. I can save some significant money here and would like to use this money for my next car.

Please help me in making this vital decision.

[sharktale]

Maintenance tip needed :

We have a bungalow in the outskirts of Kolkata bought for leisure purposes.
However, due to strict schedules, visiting it has become a big hassle.

Unfortunately, there's now an extremely severe issue of Damp formation, and also termite around the light housing.
The entire house is locked close, with nil ventilation at the moment.
Entering the house now gives a very grim picture.

Need tips from members regarding Moisture Reduction from the locked house. The net suggests buying activated charcoal packets. Is it actually suitable for Kolkata conditions?


Thanks in advance.

[keroo1099]

Originally Posted by amitk26

So lets say of size of plot is bigger then 200 sq. m limit and
suppose if one wants to construct a parking such that it is 5.87 feet above ground level and 2 feet below is it legal ? Would it be considered as stilt ?

If you stick to the standard setbacks in the 2015 masterplan, you are restricted to 11.5M in height . You can do whatever you want within that height, within reason, and that interpretation depends on how much you dole out.

Originally Posted by amitk26

The reason for limiting to 2 feet is mainly to limit potential water logging issues also want to construct a bedroom on top of it and want to keep level not too much higher from rest of the house. If plinth height of rest of the house is raised to 3 feet then 5.87 feet high basement works well for an MBR on top if it.

Yes you can do that with a split level house with the MBR off the half landing.

Originally Posted by amitk26

What are the ramp and setback required for this arrangement ?

The standard setbacks for a height of 11.5M is

Road facing : 12% depth of site
Back : 8% of the depth of the site
Sides: 8% of the width of the site

Ramp slope still stays 1:10

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by keroo1099

If you stick to the standard setbacks in the 2015 masterplan, you are restricted to 11.5M in height . You can do whatever you want within that height, within reason, and that interpretation depends on how much you dole out.


Yes you can do that with a split level house with the MBR off the half landing.

The standard setbacks for a height of 11.5M is

Road facing : 12% depth of site
Back : 8% of the depth of the site
Sides: 8% of the width of the site

Ramp slope still stays 1:10

Thanks a lot but I have couple of more questions if you can kindly
clarify it will be very helpful.

What may be the reason of BBMP docs defining basement as structure not projecting more than 1.2 m above ground ? and also giving ramp specification only for basement and not for stilt ?

I mean if ramp has to be 1:10 irespective of the depth/height why to put a defination of basement at all ?

If 1:10 slope has to be maintained then for 2.4 m clearence basement meeting BBMP defination, ramp will be 39 feet which I have not seen in any big house/banglow.
If suppose I have to construct a 39 feet ramp then I will have to dump
the idea of any digging.. as of now I have 12 feet open in front on the side where I want to construct the parking. Total plot length is 61 feet
I have left 16 feet open area in other half but I want to retain it as unpaved garden.

Am I missing something in understanding here ?

[keroo1099]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Thanks but what may be the reason of BBMP docs defining basement as structure not projecting more than 1.2 m above ground ? and also giving ramp specification only for basement and not for stilt ?

Stilt is meant to be at ground level, so they assume no ramp required.

Height restriction : 11.5m
Stilt 2.5m + 3 floors 3.0m each = 11.5m

Originally Posted by amitk26

I mean if ramp has to be 1:10 irespective of the depth/height why to put a defination of basement at all ?

Any structure that goes below ground level is technically a Basement, hence the slope specs if used for parking.

Originally Posted by amitk26

If 1:10 slope has to be maintained then for 2.4 m clearence basement meeting BBMP defination, ramp will be 39 feet which I have not seen in any big house/banglow.

That's why very few sanction plans actually translate to construction drawings.

Originally Posted by amitk26

Am I missing something in understanding here ?

I still haven't figured it all out in 25+ years.

[meerkat]

Hello Friends,

I'm facing a peculiar problem with possibly substandard ceramic wall-tiles in my new flat (in the process of getting finished), -- please refer to the attached photo.

As you can see, all the tiles show what look like random damp patches (even almost two months after installation)! The whiter (matte) patches signify the intended look (and they don't necessarily imply a lack of solid mortar underneath). Any opinions about what the reason could be?

Yes, the tiles had been presoaked in water before installation, but it is strange that the apparently damp patches are still showing after two months! Behind, there is a 5-inch-thick interior brick wall (having no source of water inside), which, I think, should have sucked out any water off the tiles by now. The bricks were not particularly damp as far as I know, and don't show any damp patches on the other side (that has non-waterproof putty on plaster).

The thing I'm puzzled about, is that the "damp" patches have not really shrunk by very much over more than six weeks that I've been tracking the problem (they have not increased either). The question is, whether or not they'll clear up on their own after several more months. (Should I try something like a hair-dryer ?!)

The above tiles (brand "SPM") were not the default tiles, but offered as an alternative by the same supplier to the promoter, and chosen by me under time-pressure. Now both the promoter and the supplier are giving me the run around, so I understand that either I'll have to accept these the way they are, or get better branded tiles installed as replacement at additional cost.

The question is, whether I should wait a few more months to see if the problem clears up, or should I commit the extra time and money for replacement (of about 160 sq. ft. of wall coverage) right away? I'd very much appreciate your views. Thanks.

[Aroy]

Normally tiles do not show any "Damp" patches, as they are baked and glazed which makes the surface impervious to water. You may be seeing the patches due to the following reason

. The tiles are really bad and "half baked" so that the glaze is porous. Check if there is water on the surface. Wipe a couple of tiles dry and wait for a couple of hours. If the patches are still there, then the tiles are suspect. I would advise that you change them immediately, as porous tiles will ruin the wall behind them due to water seepage. If you are unlucky the damp will travel through the walls and spoil the adjacent rooms.

. There is some moisture creeping into the wall and it is percolating through the tile joints - means that the materials used to attach the tiles to the wall as well as the joints is substandard.

In either case you have to get rid of the tiles, scrape the plaster and
. Buy tiles of first quality (yes there are quite a number of qualities from the same manufacturer, the lower quality ones have some manufacturing defect or other) from a reputed manufacturer.
. See that the plaster used has cement-sand ratio as per standards. Though 1:6 is recommended, for bathrooms a 1:4 is better as it will resist water better.

http://www.civilology.com/cement-san...ng-calculator/

NOTES.
. I myself prefer the tiles to go all the way upto the ceiling.
. If possible then install a single lever "Diverter" style tap for the shower. You have one lever that controls both the shower and the tap.
https://www.groheonline.co.za/produc...nt=29342791883
https://www.amazon.in/Jaquar-Diverte.../dp/B078GT1ZXD

[meerkat]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Normally tiles do not show any "Damp" patches, as they are baked and glazed which makes the surface impervious to water. ...

Thanks a lot for your detailed response. I am afraid I'd managed to unwittingly create some confusion by not clearly pointing out in the body of the text that the wall-tiles concerned were installed in my kitchen, and not in any bathroom (the only clues were in the post header: "Kitchen Tiles Problem", and also in the name of the attached photo: "kitchen_tiles.jpg")! This has led to some 'wasted' effort on your part in trying to help me out (I did still learn from your response, thanks). I sincerely apologize for my oversight.

With this clarification in mind, here is my response to the specific points you have raised:

Originally Posted by Aroy

..... You may be seeing the patches due to the following reason

. The tiles are really bad and "half baked" so that the glaze is porous. Check if there is water on the surface. Wipe a couple of tiles dry and wait for a couple of hours. If the patches are still there, then the tiles are suspect.

The glazed surfaces don't seem to be porous -- they are not damp to touch, and no moisture can be wiped clean. Apparently, it is kind of translucent, so the 'moisture' trapped behind, shows!

Originally Posted by Aroy

.... I would advise that you change them immediately, as porous tiles will ruin the wall behind them due to water seepage. If you are unlucky the damp will travel through the walls and spoil the adjacent rooms.

. There is some moisture creeping into the wall and it is percolating through the tile joints - means that the materials used to attach the tiles to the wall as well as the joints is substandard.

Since it is unlikely that the trapped water will be replenished in any manner in a kitchen environment, I don't expect this to be a problem. The two opposite sides of the two tiled walls are: 1. common corridor (interior), and 2. building exterior wall, with no artificial source of water inside either.

Also, the same materials were used in the bathrooms, and no 'damp patches' are seen through the Kajaria tiles installed there. Infact the kitchen also had Kajaria tiles originally which I didn't like, so had those replaced. The promoter's supplier did not have matte white Kajarias in stock, so I had to settle for the apparently substandard "SPM" tiles that were offered instead!

The areas adjacent to the tile joints show signs of "drying out", so I'm hoping that the interior patches would also do so eventually, -- but would they?! And if so, after how many months (or years) ?!!

Thanks again.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by meerkat

Thanks a lot for your detailed response. I am afraid I'd managed to unwittingly create some confusion by not clearly pointing out in the body of the text that the wall-tiles concerned were installed in my kitchen, and not in any bathroom (the only clues were in the post header: "Kitchen Tiles Problem", and also in the name of the attached photo: "kitchen_tiles.jpg")! This has led to some 'wasted' effort on your part in trying to help me out (I did still learn from your response, thanks). I sincerely apologize for my oversight.

With this clarification in mind, here is my response to the specific points you have raised:

The glazed surfaces don't seem to be porous -- they are not damp to touch, and no moisture can be wiped clean. Apparently, it is kind of translucent, so the 'moisture' trapped behind, shows!

Since it is unlikely that the trapped water will be replenished in any manner in a kitchen environment, I don't expect this to be a problem. The two opposite sides of the two tiled walls are: 1. common corridor (interior), and 2. building exterior wall, with no artificial source of water inside either.

Also, the same materials were used in the bathrooms, and no 'damp patches' are seen through the Kajaria tiles installed there. Infact the kitchen also had Kajaria tiles originally which I didn't like, so had those replaced. The promoter's supplier did not have matte white Kajarias in stock, so I had to settle for the apparently substandard "SPM" tiles that were offered instead!

The areas adjacent to the tile joints show signs of "drying out", so I'm hoping that the interior patches would also do so eventually, -- but would they?! And if so, after how many months (or years) ?!!

Thanks again.

First of all, let me assure you that there was no problem in giving you a reply to your problem.

What I can figure out is that the apparent water patches are a part of the design, as there is no way that water can be trapped just below the glazed surface and be visible. You can check this out by visiting a showroom that has these tiles on display.

[meerkat]

Originally Posted by Aroy

What I can figure out is that the apparent water patches are a part of the design, as there is no way that water can be trapped just below the glazed surface and be visible. You can check this out by visiting a showroom that has these tiles on display.

Before I chose the tiles, samples were sent to the site by the supplier. I chose these based on the uniform matte white look, with no signs of any patches, or I wouldn't have chosen those!

Maybe it isn't very clear from the photo I attached, but the random patches do look ugly, -- so much so that I can't believe that any manufacturer in their right mind would try to market such ugly "design"! -- I just can't believe anybody would buy!

The tiles absorbed a lot of water during pre-soak. I suspect that once installed, the trapped moisture can't escape easily due to some quirk in the orientation of the pores in the substrate, and the particular nature of the mortar used! I can't think of any other cause. The moisture do seem to escape relatively easily from around the tile joints.

The puzzle remains!

[meerkat]

Originally Posted by Aroy

... there is no way that water can be trapped just below the glazed surface and be visible.

As a proof that water trapped just below the glazed surface of a ceramic tile can indeed be visible from top, here I attach a photo of a tile in a bathroom of my rental flat (not the new flat my original post was about) where I know that there is a leakage problem in the pipes embedded in the wall behind (this needs to be fixed, of course). As you can see, there are damp marks on the tile (but no seepage through the glazed surface). The whiter parts have hollow behind (no mortar), and have the intended look. So the water leaks through the pipe into the bricks and mortar, then soaks through the tile's substrate and becomes visible from outside!

In my own flat, there is no source to replenish the moisture trapped behind the kitchen tiles, and the whiter parts are not necessarily hollow behind!

As further proof, I noticed that the pre-soaked kitchen tiles do have a damp look rather than the original dry, whiter look.

As to why the moisture takes eons to escape out (if ever), I'm perplexed. I think I should try forcing out the moisture by using something like a hair dryer.

[amitk26]

I am looking at various doors and windows options and came across Tata Pravesh.

They have steel windows with wood grain finish.
The fit and finish is similar to UPVC but material is steel with coated surface.

IMHO this should be more durable option then UPVC.

Anyone checked these windows and has feedback ?

[amitk26]

I have another question related to plumbing pipes.
Between PPR ans CPVC pipes which one is better and how much is cost difference between PPR and CPVC ?

[meerkat]

Hi friends,

I suspect I'm being ripped off by the builder of my new flat (still not complete) under the guise of GST for additional work!

I've got some modifications/improvements made to my flat by the builder at extra cost. I've asked for an official itemized bill for the same. The builder has tagged on 18% GST on top of the total cost. I have the following queries that I hope members with experience in similar situations can help me with.

1. I remember reading somewhere that the GST should be payable at 12% even for modifications before completion of the property (but at 18% after completion). My flat is some way from completion yet. If my understanding is correct, is there any government notification in this regard that I can get hold of easily?

2. I know that there is a Govt. notification making it compulsory for the builders to pass on to the buyer any benefit from any Input Tax Credits they receive (e.g. for supply of materials, tiles, grills etc.). But how can I make the builder actually pass on to me any such benefit? Otherwise I'd be paying GST on GST !

3. The builder has given me an itemized bill (with the 18% GST indicated) on full payment for the additional work. How can I make sure the builder actually does deposit the GST I am charged for to the Govt. account? For the original price for the property, receipt for such tax amounts are given separately. But for the additional work, is it possible to get such receipts (with the property identifiable)? I'm not sure the GST amount shown on the itemized bill I received has any meaning whatsoever in terms of actual deposit to the Govt. account!

I'd appreciate any help from experienced members in this regard. Thanks.