[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by adithya.kp

Its a pain to select these non standard items. Now I am finding it difficult to finalise the parking/compound gate. Not impressed with any of the designs my contractor showed. Does anybody have some pointers on gate?

Yes. The moment you go outside what people do "usually", everybody - contractors, workers, shopkeepers, etc get very odd. For flooring, I suggest you actually go to some flooring shops and enquire, do not rely solely on the contractor or the net or even Google maps. There is a world beyond the internet. Star category hotels use wooden floors. So, you are not asking for the moon.

About the gate - Wake up early, and take a walk around your area. Observe the gate designs around you. Then, go to a few other residential areas and take inspiration. And draw your own design. Looking in the neighborhood is essential - you don't want something similar to what somebody already has.

In particular, you may like a six inch wide wooden plank like thing sold on shops selling roofing sheets (it is something artificial) that is fixed inside 30-35 mm square tubing frames. Consider GI instead of MS tubing.

[nidhikapoor]

A close friend of mine is building a new house and was asking on FB how to keep his top floor cool. I also have a room on the top floor which will also get super heated. My project is in mid phase now so I can still make changes.


Any suggestions? My friend is suggesting a 4" false ceiling and heat reflective tiles on the terrace.

Also, what size tank would you guys suggest for a family of 5? Our sump is 8000 liters but contractor suggested that 2000 liter tank should be enough.

[NomadSK]

Originally Posted by nidhikapoor

Any suggestions? My friend is suggesting a 4" false ceiling and heat reflective tiles on the terrace.

If you intend to do false ceiling, Anchor a layer of thermocole/Polystyrene layer on the concrete roof from inside. Thickness will depend on your requirement. This will reduce your heating and also enchnace your airconditioning.

[nidhikapoor]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

If you intend to do false ceiling, Anchor a layer of thermocole/Polystyrene layer on the concrete roof from inside. Thickness will depend on your requirement. This will reduce your heating and also enchnace your airconditioning.

Thermocole or glass wool? Which would be better?

[NomadSK]

Originally Posted by nidhikapoor

Thermocole or glass wool? Which would be better?

Thermocol is better, as glasswool contains hazardous material, if left loose, minor glass particles can be air borne and can cause problems in long run. Glaswool is better used for external insulation in Industrial requirements.

[neeraj0272]

Originally Posted by adithya.kp

Query on wooden flooring. Unlike the other areas like tiles, sanitaryware etc, there doesn't seem to be a well known brand here. My contractor showed his catalogue to me. Wanted to explore more options. Can someone recommend some good options for wooden flooring?. Also, the places to buy from.

Pergo is a well known brand for laminated flooring. I am using it for past 6 years and quite satisfied with it.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by nidhikapoor

.... to keep his top floor cool. I also have a room on the top floor which will also get super heated. My project is in mid phase now so I can still make changes.

Also, what size tank would you guys suggest for a family of 5? Our sump is 8000 liters but contractor suggested that 2000 liter tank should be enough.

A 2000 L tank would last 30+ hours of normal use and 48+ hours under conservation mode. Since you have a sump, together, there would be enough supply for 6+ days under normal usage.

About heating on upper floors, what I notice is, sunlight in early mornings and afternoons heat up the walls, and most new constructions are air con friendly - means, no ventilation. The heated up walls heat up air inside the building, which has no where to go. Warm air naturally rises up due to convection, so put some means for it to escape - a series of 4-5 60 mm holes within 45 - 60 cm in the wall, may be.

20 years or older RCC buildings here have rectangular ventilators about 2 inch high, 3 ft long, near the roof. And these are arranged in a straight line, from one end of the building to the other. And there will be ventilators on all for sudes if the building. Search the net for "natural room cooling". "Cross ventilation" is another phrase Plenty of material on the topic.

[carboy]

One small window in my flat doesn't have a chhajja. What kind of shop/vendor makes & fits chhajjas?

I am not sure what the English word for Chhajja is - most flats in Mumbai have a custom shade fitted outside on the flat between your flat & the floor on top of your flat. It like a shade which makes sure rain doesn't come into your flat through the windows/balcony.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by carboy

One small window in my flat doesn't have a chhajja. What kind of shop/vendor makes & fits chhajjas?

"Sun shade"?

Here, you get a mild steel or galvanised iron frame fabricated from a welding workshop and put a metal or polycarbonate sheet on it.

Search for "tress work", "welding workshop" or "metal fabrication" on Google maps.

[balenoed_]

About to get into the concreting stage of the ground floor of a G+1.5 house. Deciding on whether to go with Meenakshi (Rs. 61,500/MT) or Indus (Rs. 68,000/MT) TMT steel. Used JSW for the Column footing/Pillars. Not pursuing JSW for roof slab concreting to reduce cost.

Anyone has suggestions on which one to go for or any other insights into this?

[Funny]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

About to get into the concreting stage of the ground floor of a G+1.5 house. Deciding on whether to go with Meenakshi (Rs. 61,500/MT) or Indus (Rs. 68,000/MT) TMT steel.

Our G+1.5 structure is just completed. We've used Meenakshi 550D for the complete construction. AFAIK, it's just the brand name. There's no significant difference between Meenakshi/Indus/JSW/Tata etc when you are going for the same grade steel bars. All you need to make sure is that the correct size (dia) and grade is used for the construction. You'll have a lot more of such decisions to make like Jaquar vs Cera, Kajaria vs Somany etc so the general idea is that if you have the budget then go for the best brands else stick to medium budget brands which are equally good enough.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

About to get into the concreting stage of the ground floor of a G+1.5 house. Deciding on whether to go with Meenakshi (Rs. 61,500/MT) or Indus (Rs. 68,000/MT) TMT steel. Used JSW for the Column footing/Pillars. Not pursuing JSW for roof slab concreting to reduce cost.

Best thing to do is to compare weights of 3-5 meter rods of same diameter from all three brands and go with the one that gives heaviest average weight per meter. Not all brands are consistent in maintaining diameter tolerances. Everybody will be happy with thinner rods, because costs go down with weight savings. So does strength of the reinforcement.

Second aspect is metallurgical. Meenakshi and Indus seem to be brands local for your area. They typically use scrap iron and reroll it into bars. (Hence the name "rebars"). If the raw material does not conform to BIS prescribed norms, your it high and dry. Every meter of ride is supposed to contain a batch number stamping and each batch should have a metallurgical test certificate showing conformity with BIS standards. The rest and certificates are ofcourse, self certified. Not sure if you can go to this kind of pains to check quality. But you certainly can afford the first (average weight per meter) test.

Civil works are less than 35% costs of a building. Especially residences. Majority expenses commence after plastering is completed. So don't compromise of quality on financial grounds here.

During the civil phase of ongoing renovation at my house, I was shocked to find that currently available reinforcement rods are a lot more thinner than the ones originally used.

[Thad E Ginathom]

A little pedantry: the etymology of rebar is a short form of reinforcing bar.

I wasn't sure of that, so I checked with the internet, which agreed. I have never heard it called anything else.

Please excuse pedantry .

[Aroy]

Steel for RCC work comes in a lot of strengths and guises. Normally local bars are made from scrap which is melted and rolled.

Major brands use virgin metal and heavy duty machines for rolling. The difference is

. Malleability of virging bars - will not crack easily under strain.
. Higher strength as rolling is done by better machines under better conditions
. Better QC, so diameters and per unit weight is consistent.

One thing you should note is that the quantity of steel in a beam or column is based on area of the total steel. The lengths and diameters are based on area, so slightly thinner sections (of many local steel) will affect the final strength.

Also malleability plays a major role in an earthquake or accidents. A brittle bar will collapse much faster.

In my opinion based the above, it is foolish to skimp on steel, just based on prices. The difference is around 10% of steel, which is around 1% of the total cost. So will you compromise for just 1%?

[adithya.kp]

I am looking for bathroom wash basins and cabinets. I prefer rectangle shaped clean design. Visited jaquar, kohler etc. Yet to to buy it. While searching the net, I got know, even Ikea makes it. For E.g, https://www.ikea.com/in/en/p/enhet-t...tap-s29424720/ . Good thing is that, they have cabinets too. 3 queries,

1. Has anyone used ikea wash basin? In terms of quality, what does it compare to?
2. A sales guy at a multi brand told store me that, the design like the one shown above, is outdated. (I actually like it because, it also has spaces on the edges to keep things). Any truth to it?
3. If I were to buy jaquar/kohler etc wash basin, I need to hire a carpenter for cabinet work. I don't know if they can match this kind of fit and finish. Do you guys think, making a cabinet is difficult for the local carpenters?