[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Hi, Is this by hindware? We have installed three of this in our ancestral house and been almost 3 years now without any issues. And installation is as you have described i think.

The image is for providing the context, taken off the internet. I think the brand in that picture is Jaquar. I will appreciate if you can ascertain how it was fixed to the wall.

From the Cera site, there are
1. WCs (but flush tanks separately)
2. EWCs. (What is the "extended" part in it?)
3. Two piece EWCs. (Matches flush tank / cistern)
4. Wall hung WCs. (Concealed cistern - but then separate, mahe sure to match the cistern and frame)
5. Two piece wall hung EWCs.

I am asking about the 5th one. The 4th one is more common, with concealed cistern and is frame mounted.

Originally Posted by Amrik Singh

You have asked this question because probably you have not seen the Cistern and Flushing Mechanism of Concealed Cistern. It is no more than 100 mm deep.
Just install the complete set as per norms except that you make a Wooden Frame around Concealed Cistern. Fix a Plywood sheet on it and affix/Paste the Tiles. Ensure that the Frame and Plywood is sized to your Wall Tiles in such a way that no Tile is Cut. Fix this Panel on the Frame with Screws with decorative Caps. Thus, though the Cistern is concealed, it is conveniently accessible.

Hmm. You have put it in a way that is easier to understand and have eliminated a lot of my fears. Thanks.

One thing I am factoring in is that the building is already 35 years old. So ₹ 25+ k per closet set seems a bit over spending - and there are four bathrooms to be done. At below 15 k per two piece EWC, and installation and decor that is a lot cheaper, it seems better. I did consider putting a using a half frame for concealed closet and making a granite ledge top above the cistern / frame as an extension of the counter top for wash basins - this will be extremely useful. And pleasant to the eyes too. But the "total cost" factor is holding me back.

Originally Posted by am1m

Some pointers on tree maintenance, gained by painful experience:

Sigh. The aforementioned house is in an urban jungle. The people who do the cutting thankfully still uses firewood for cooking. So my handyman takes it away. What he can't take away is burnt out left to decay.

[Aroy]

The reason I do not like concealed cisterns is that when the time comes to repair or replace any part (rest assured it will come every 10 years or so, if not earlier), a lot of dismantling is involved.

I prefer floor mounted WC, no load on the walls and drainage is simpler. There are a lot of slim design water tanks for WC available, some in ceramic and others in plastic. We have finally replaced a couple of ceramic tanks with slim plastic ones. They are slim, do not chip or discolour and extremely easy to replace the syphons.

https://www.amazon.in/Parryware-Slim...37139245&psc=1

https://www.moglix.com/parryware-sli...CABEgIQx_D_BwE

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by Aroy

The reason I do not like concealed cisterns is that when the time comes to repair or replace any part (rest assured it will come every 10 years or so, if not earlier), a lot of dismantling is involved.

I prefer floor mounted WC, no load on the walls and drainage is simpler.

I agree with you partially, However, cleaning the floor around a Floor mounted WC is a nightmare. It may look clean initially, but soon the White Mastic or Cement around the base turns Yellowish. Even droplets of water stagnant at the base stain the floor. It is quite difficult to mop around the base dry.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by Aroy

... when the time comes to repair or replace any part (rest assured it will come every 10 years or so, if not earlier), a lot of dismantling is involved.

We have finally replaced a couple of ceramic tanks with slim plastic ones.

Valid. But that you replaced ceramic cistern is rather disconcerting. I thought these don't develop leaks.

One of the toilets i all replacing used to have a tankless Brass flush that was fed through a two inch plumbing. This however needed extensive maintenance that I had to replace it with a cistern.

I do find cleaning around the base and behind the floor mount WC tedious. That is why I am looking at the wall mount one without a concealed tank. Please have a look at this range.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Valid. But that you replaced ceramic cistern is rather disconcerting. I thought these don't develop leaks.

One of the toilets i all replacing used to have a tankless Brass flush that was fed through a two inch plumbing. This however needed extensive maintenance that I had to replace it with a cistern.

I do find cleaning around the base and behind the floor mount WC tedious. That is why I am looking at the wall mount one without a concealed tank. Please have a look at this range.

Well if you need it, you need it. Just ensure that the wall the cistern is mounted on can support the cistern (10kg?) and another 80-100kg. Normally a 4 1/2" wall cannot support, so either it is a 9" wall, or a reinforced concrete frame to which the cistern is bolted on.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

So i have couple of queries more. How durable are the flexible hoses (not the Shower / spray types) on kitchen sink taps? The ones with single lever mixers? Have a solar heater, so hot water is ok. Or should I go for a digit spout type, may be one that swings left - right? The sink will be 27-33 inch wide. The image is for illustration only - it is an El cheapo model on Amazon. I am ok spending ₹ 5-15k on this.



Next query is, planning motion sensor switches for bathroom lighting with cut off set to minimal delay and exhaust (BLDC, if it matters) switch off set to maximum delay. Idea is to keep a MCB (or whatever it is called) for these two devices so that a manual override for maintenance is possible. Other points in the bathroom if any will be on the common MCB for the concerned room. (Attached bathrooms). Any ideas, experiences with motion sensing switches in bathrooms? Planning to use the radar types ones. So there will be 8 sensors, plus may be 3-4 more fir common areas like car porch stairs etc.

Recommendations on brand / model for the tap and motion sensors welcome.

Originally Posted by Aroy

Normally a 4 1/2" wall cannot support, so either it is a 9" wall, or a reinforced concrete frame to which the cistern is bolted on.

Ok. That precisely is the info I was looking for.

[Sran]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

How durable are the flexible hoses (not the Shower / spray types) on kitchen sink taps?

Next query is, planning motion sensor switches for bathroom lighting with cut off set to minimal delay and exhaust (BLDC, if it matters) switch off set to maximum delay.

Just use a good heavy quarter turn tap that has easy spindle replacement. These fancy ones aren't going to work for more than 5 years.

Why not simply use a motion sensor bulb. Many companies manufacture them and it costs Rs 300-500.

[airguitar]

Any recommendations on a good interior designer that does heritage / fusion ( heritage + modern ) for residences? This is for Bengaluru and I'm not looking at people that rollout templated offerings - I need something where the operator is knowledgeable about India, it's heritage and incorporates artifacts or concepts from across India and starts from a blank slate to design. 10 year warranties and hardwood offerings are a plus.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Hi all. Some more queries on the ongoing renovation. This time, it is about the old concealed wiring conduits.

How to close and seal these?

The old wiring was done in black flexible v tubes and most of it is now crumbling. Since black ants were frequent in these conduits, i want to seal then completely.

a) Would using a pressure washer to direct water into the holes remove the old dust and crumbling pvc tubes in the conduits?

b) Is there something similar to a grease gun that can pump cement or cement + sand mortar into the old conduits? iOS a pressure grouting pump appropriate instrument for this job? Can it "throw" cement at low pressure like a grease gun? (Might be available on rent)

If feasible, this might be better than opening up the wall and plastering it all over again. Also, the old conduits in the RCC ceiling slab cannot be used anyway, though the fan positions are needed. (switch boards are being repositioned).

The third query - how accurately can we identify the concealed wireing routes if a "stud finder" is used? The electrician says there will be much in necessary breaking to find the concealed wires, do n simply leave them as is, closing only the ends. But then I stumbled on these devices on Amazon. Has anybody here here used or seen these being used?

What do people think? Any other options to deal with discarded concealed wiring conduits?

I prefer using wiring channels (the rectangular ones) this time, instead of concealed wiring.

And an un related query - how useful and durable are the bathroom mirrors with LED strips around them?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

........
The old wiring was done in black flexible v tubes and most of it is now crumbling. Since black ants were frequent in these conduits, i want to seal then completely.
.........
b) Is there something similar to a grease gun that can pump cement or cement + sand mortar into the old conduits? iOS a pressure grouting pump appropriate instrument for this job? Can it "throw" cement at low pressure like a grease gun? (Might be available on rent)

............

The third query - how accurately can we identify the concealed wireing routes if a "stud finder" is used? The electrician says there will be much in necessary breaking to find the concealed wires, do n simply leave them as is, closing only the ends. But then I stumbled on these devices on Amazon. Has anybody here here used or seen these being used?
.................

And an un related query - how useful and durable are the bathroom mirrors with LED strips around them?

There are some pressure grouting systems available with water proofing agencies. These pump water proofing compound at high pressure. You can enquire whether they will be able to use the pressure guns to inject some sort of "foam" that is light while at the same time solidifies and closes the pipes completely.

Devices locating concealed pipes depend on magnetic field and are generally useful for mettalic pipes. Theyt are quite accurate if used properly.

In my opinion it is best if you can cut the brick walls and remove the pipes. The cost is not much and yoou will have a new plaster on the walls. Once the pipes in the wall are taken out, you can just inject some incecticide followed by elastomeric compounds to seal the ends.

[Saanil]

Hi Team,

We have a 18 months old toddler in our house an we want to install grilles in all our balconies to ensure safety of the baby. Our building does not allow installation of the usual metal grilles so we are considering invisible grilles.

Are there any downsides of installing these invisible grilles? We contacted one vendor and he told us that we could use 2mm or 3 mm wires for these grilles. I am not sure if the thickness would make any major difference. The cost of the 2mm wire is Rs 125 per sqft while the 3mm will cost Rs 130 per sqft. Is there anything else I should be concerned about?

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

How are ceramic slabs for use as kitchen counter tops? There are 800 x 2400 vitrified ceramic full bodied slabs. The tile dealer is saying these are used for kitchen counters. Does anybody use these? How resistant are they to stains and phot utensils?

Idea is to place the slab (ceramic or granite) on a custom fabricated stainless steel frame with an 8 mm or so thick plywood as a cushion / buffer.

Originally Posted by Saanil

We have a 18 months old toddler in our house an we want to install grilles in all our balconies to ensure safety of the baby. Our building does not allow installation of the usual metal grilles so we are considering invisible grilles.

While granting clearance to the apartment, the fire regulators would have considered entering the apartment through the balconies in case of emergencies. Hence, closing the balcony would be a regulatory issue rather than violation of society rules.

Next, I suggest you consider nylon netting. Usually white coloured, mesh approximately 1 inch apart. Should cost around 500/- or less for the entire thing. It is fixed using hooks used to close windows.

Mind posting a picture of the exc gusting grille? Chances are that it is safe enough and the gaps are close enough.

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Idea is to place the slab (ceramic or granite) on a custom fabricated stainless steel frame with an 8 mm or so thick plywood as a cushion

Not commenting on Ceramic, while Granite is commonly used, would advise on base preparation.
A Marble slab is laid prior to final Granite slab. All efforts to level the slab is done on this. To fix this Marble slab, sand - cement mixture is used and is worked to provide perfectly level surface of Marble slab. This Marble being cheap can be removed and refixed till satisfactory surface finish.
Later, Granite is laid on top of Marble and adhered to Marble using Araldite or Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate). Thus a level finish surface is achieved. Since Marble and Granite - bother are around 20 mm thick, a final 35 - 40 mm thick surface is obtained. The Marble slab is about 20 mm shorter in Width from the Granite on the outer edge. Granite pieces of this size are cut and pasted (with Araldite) on the edges to give appearance of a Thick slab which are chambered.
IMO, the kitchen counters are 600 mm wide. Vitrified Ceramic tile of 800 mm width would require to be cut carefully. Also consider how you plan to finish the outer edge. Ceramic being fragile would be susceptible to damage, especially at the edge.

[Saanil]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

While granting clearance to the apartment, the fire regulators would have considered entering the apartment through the balconies in case of emergencies. Hence, closing the balcony would be a regulatory issue rather than violation of society rules.

Next, I suggest you consider nylon netting. Usually white coloured, mesh approximately 1 inch apart. Should cost around 500/- or less for the entire thing. It is fixed using hooks used to close windows.

Mind posting a picture of the exc gusting grille? Chances are that it is safe enough and the gaps are close enough.

Not sure but the nylon netting would serve only as a pigeon net right? I was looking for a more sturdier option which might prevent any unfortunate incident involving a baby. Apologies if I misunderstood your post.

[One]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

How are ceramic slabs for use as kitchen counter tops? There are 800 x 2400 vitrified ceramic full bodied slabs. The tile dealer is saying these are used for kitchen counters. Does anybody use these? How resistant are they to stains and phot utensils?

I think I posted on this earlier, the short summary is that we liked the ceramic patterns more than granite but didn't do it due to staining and strength issues we witnessed.

What I would recommend for stains is to get a small sample of the exact same piece you intend to buy (as small as 1 square inch will be fine as well) , put turmeric+honey on it and leave it overnight. If it doesn't stain, then atleast from a staining perspective you are good. Try similar things for scratch resistance by purposely scratching the sample.

I have a friend who has ceramic and it hasn't stained but she is like a super efficient machine who cleans the counter after a meal while we are talking and takes care generally of her stuff. But we cannot manage what she does with our more relaxed lifestyle and young kids.

Let us know what you eventually end up buying