[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by deep_bang

For bathroom doors have a look at FRP doors - simply the best and resistant to water. Looks nearly like wood and many designs are available.

We replaced a rotting wooden bathroom door with a fully-synthetic material door. I don't recall if it was FRP. It was workable with woodworking tools. It is a plain "wood" finish, and, at a glance, would be seen as wood. Closer inspection makes it look more like an office door. This is for an "en suite" bathroom, and I absolutely did not want the tradition plastic thing that screams "toilet!"

[m8002?]

One can also look at WPC (wood plastic composite ) doors. They are water and fire proof. Also come in a variety of designs - plain ones for the bathroom and fancy ones for the other rooms.

Agree with Thad above. PVC doors scream :-)!!

[JMaruru]

I have this situation where the canopy(sajja) brick tiles for windows are broken due to falling coconuts. Are there any canopy roof material which can withstand the coconuts falling on them?

Please advise.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

I have this situation where the canopy(sajja) brick tiles for windows are broken due to falling coconuts. Are there any canopy roof material which can withstand the coconuts falling on them?

Please advise.

There are 6mm plastic sheets that are used by the metal workers which are pretty sturdy and can withstand a coconut falling on them

[AltoLXI]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

I have this situation where the canopy(sajja) brick tiles for windows are broken due to falling coconuts. Are there any canopy roof material which can withstand the coconuts falling on them?

Please advise.

I have seen people tying the nets like this. Maybe this helps.

[JMaruru]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

There are 6mm plastic sheets that are used by the metal workers which are pretty sturdy and can withstand a coconut falling on them

Could you please let me know more about them? Are there any brands?

Originally Posted by AltoLXI

I have seen people tying the nets like this. Maybe this helps.

This creates another problem, like in climbing/cleaning the trees. We had this for one of the trees and had to remove the same.

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

There are 6mm plastic sheets that are used by the metal workers which are pretty sturdy and can withstand a coconut falling on them

Plastic is Brittle and would break with impact. Besides, it deteriorates with exposure to Sun. Consider Polycarbonate sheets instead.
Do not install anything horizontal below the falling onject. A slant reduces the impact and gathers the object at one place.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

Could you please let me know more about them? Are there any brands?


No idea about brands. I have a 8x3 feet sheet installed supported by metal frame underneath. Have taken quite a lot of falling objects and is still intact

This creates another problem, like in climbing/cleaning the trees. We had this for one of the trees and had to remove the same.

Originally Posted by Amrik Singh

Plastic is Brittle and would break with impact. Besides, it deteriorates with exposure to Sun. Consider Polycarbonate sheets instead.
Do not install anything horizontal below the falling onject. A slant reduces the impact and gathers the object at one place.

I meant Polycarbonate only. Did not occur to me at the time of replying.

[Ananthang]

Hi

I spoiled my marble with Lemon juice and it has got itself etched. Is there any etch removal process.

There are couple of etch remover in US costing 35 to 40 dollars. Are there any Do it yourself or Cheaper products in India to remove Marble etch

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Ananthang

I spoiled my marble with Lemon juice and it has got itself etched. Is there any etch removal process.

You have cut into the surface and lost the shine. Shiny just means very smooth. I think you have to polish, like removing swirl marks and small scratches from paint. Probably not a job to attempt by hand.

[Ananthang]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

You have cut into the surface and lost the shine. Shiny just means very smooth. I think you have to polish, like removing swirl marks and small scratches from paint. Probably not a job to attempt by hand.

Thanks Thad. Will ask around or can we use the wax polish buff that we use in cars for this

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Ananthang

Thanks Thad. Will ask around or can we use the wax polish buff that we use in cars for this

Etch means you have damaged the surface. The only recourse is to take a layer of marble off. In my experience, a sharpening stone (the type that has different grit on each side) should do the trick. I have done it to Kota stone in our balcony and the rough side removes a lot of surface and the smooth side polishes it. The only problem is the amount of elbow grease that you need to invest. Some thing like this, but much cheaper in local market

https://www.amazon.in/SUEHIRO-Japane.../dp/B000OYZ08O

My one is nearly 50 years old and cost me less than Rs.50. It used by carpenters so you can ask one for the source.

[Thad E Ginathom]

In theory, you can go from course grit all the way up to diamond sub-micron paste! Well, that's a joke, really: even the bright mirror finish on gold and silver is done with compounds not nearly that fine. But how far you go is up to you.

However, a guy with a machine and experience can probably do the job fairly quickly. The sheets might be factory polished, but they guys who fit this stuff have to cut shapes, shape edges, etc etc.

A guy with a machine and without experience could easily do more harm than good.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Ananthang

... can we use the wax polish buff that we use in cars for this

I think not. You might get a temporary wax surface, but it wouldn't last. The compounds that cut paint might not have much effect on stone, even though marble is a soft stone.

I have a couple of blocks of Meguiar's metal polishing compound (made for use with buffing wheel machines) They will produce mirror polish on silver, gold, even stainless steel! How abrasive is it? I wanted to cut off a small piece and used a hacksaw: it took all the teeth off the blade!

[mvadg]

A friend has a query:

Need some inputs regarding crack filling of walls before repainting. We have used Nippon crack fill paste after grinding the cracks. The finished surface of the paste seems a little soft and not hard like after putty application. After 2 to 3 applications the painter is not able to get a flat surface. It appears the sealer is sinking in the groove and remains concave. So after he paints it, the depressions are clearly visible. Do we need to use a hard type of sealer or add fine sand or mesh tapes to get a flat hard surface?

Suggestions welcome.