[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by fine69

Alright, so there's two itinerary I could now come up with:

1st
Day 1 - Delhi to Sarahan / Bhabhanagar - 528 km / 563 km
Day 2 - Sarahan / Bhabhanagar to Tabo (via Nako) - 260 km / 225 km
Day 3 - Tabo to Kaza (via Dhankar/Pin Valley) - 47 km
Day 4 - Visit Ki/Kye Gompa, Kibber, Langza, Komic
Day 5 - Kaza to Khoksar (Trek to Chandratal) - 141 km
Day 6 - Khoksar to Sarchu (via Baralacha la) - 150 km
Day 7 - Sarchu to Jispa - 83 km
Day 8 - Jispa to Manali - 139 km
Day 9 - Manali to Banjar (Tirthan Valley) - 93 km
Day 10 - Banjar to Delhi - 570 km

Questions:
1. In case I wouldn't be able to take the car to Chandratal and trek instead would it be possible to come back and then drive to Khoksar all in one day (assuming I start by 6 AM sharp)

you will be able to go 3kms before chandertaal. 3kms is trekking. If you start from kaza 6am sharp, you should be in khoksar by 6pm.

2. What does Sarchu has to offer, coz I've read a lot about the stay options not being that comfortable and expensive too so would it be wise to come back to Jispa instead?

Umm, nothing really, Its just moon like landscape. Its actually manali leh highway section, and people break their journey at sarchu

3. In case I do come back to Jispa then should a day/night at Keylong (or any other place) be incorporated?

Khoksar-Baralachal la top- Jispa will take most of your day

2nd (in case it is difficult to do the Chandratal trek and then reach Khoksar by late evening)
Day 1 - Delhi to Sarahan / Bhabhanagar - 528 km / 563 km
Day 2 - Sarahan / Bhabhanagar to Tabo (via Nako) - 260 km / 225 km
Day 3 - Tabo to Kaza (via Dhankar/Pin Valley) - 47 km
Day 4 - Visit Ki/Kye Gompa, Kibber, Langza, Komic
Day 5 - Kaza to Losar (Trek to Chandratal) - 58 km
Day 6 - Losar to Jispa - 150 km
Day 7 - Jispa to Sarchu / Keylong (via Baralacha la) - 83 km / 126 km
Day 8 - Keylong / Sarchu to Manali - 117 km / 222 km
Day 9 - Manali to Banjar (Tirthan Valley) - 93 km
Day 10 - Banjar to Delhi - 570 km

Questions in case this itinerary is better:
1. One common question, is it worth going to Sarchu or should I come back from Baralacha la to Jispa/Keylong instead?
2. If at all I go all the way to Sarchu is it possible to do Sarchu-Manali in daylight?

Now something important, last time when we came back from Chitkul the plan was to halt at Narkanda however having been to such a wonderful place Narkanda just didn't fit in in the itinerary any more and we chose to drive down to Delhi directly. I'm pretty sure that having been to Spiti/Lahaul, Tirthan might not look that appealing on Day 9 so in case I plan on doing Manali-Delhi on Day 10 then can that extra day be utilized in a better manner in Lahaul? Or spend that extra day at Kaza itself, go to some remote places, depending on how remote Swift would be able to take us.

EDIT: Or spend that extra day in Pin Valley. I haven't seen too many pictures of this valley, is it worth staying a night at?


Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to go to Pin valley when going from Tabo to Kaza, time permitting.

Losar is before kunzum. So from kaza it takes 2.5 hours to losar, and around 2 hours to reach chandertaal parking, then its a 30 minutes walk to the lake.

I suggest you keep b.la in your itenary, and concentrate on Spiti
Make a kaza - pin valley - dhankar- kaza on day 1
Make kaza kaumic-kaza and kaza kibber losar on day 2
That will give you more time for chandertaal

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by fine69

EDIT: Or spend that extra day in Pin Valley. I haven't seen too many pictures of this valley, is it worth staying a night at?

Below is one taken by me near Mud at Pin valley. This is not the best one but is right now handy with me.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by dinesha

You should have flexible plan, don’t pre-book hotels and stay additional nights/days if you like pin valley or any other place. Personally I will happily stay additional night in Mud.

Shall do.

Originally Posted by dinesha

Instead of Kaza consider staying at Rangrik about 5 Kms from Kaza the place is lot more scenic. There is a good hotel-Spiti Sarai there. Owner runs an adventure company from Kaza in partnership with a eurpoean guy. He himself is an avid trekker & Mountaineer. He can arrange all your trek needs for Chandrataal.

Thanks for the info

Originally Posted by dinesha

In most probability you will not be able to take Maruti Swift to Chandrataal even if road is open. If you want to use a vehcle you should arrange from Kaza.

I don't think the terrain calls for a high GC vehicle or even a 4x4. In fact swift being narrower than other SUVs it should be doable. When you were there did you inquire as to why such vehicles wouldn't have been able to make it to the chandertal parking area?

Originally Posted by lordofgondor

My comments are inline:

Thanks for your suggestions. I guess I'll spend one more night in Spiti and just visit Jispa & Baralacha la in Lahual. May be when coming back from Ladakh in future I could explore the Lahaul region more.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

you will be able to go 3kms before chandertaal. 3kms is trekking. If you start from kaza 6am sharp, you should be in khoksar by 6pm.

Cool

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I suggest you keep b.la in your itenary, and concentrate on Spiti
Make a kaza - pin valley - dhankar- kaza on day 1
Make kaza kaumic-kaza and kaza kibber losar on day 2
That will give you more time for chandertaal

Yep, this makes more sense as it would be better to be as close to Chandertal as possible.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by fine69

I don't think the terrain calls for a high GC vehicle or even a 4x4. In fact swift being narrower than other SUVs it should be doable. When you were there did you inquire as to why such vehicles wouldn't have been able to make it to the chandertal parking area?.

Chandertaal dirt track does not require high GC. Infact a swift is better than safari, as road is very very narrow.
However, losar-kunzum-gramphoo stretch is hell for small cars. I have seen swifts and esteems do it, and the rally cars also do it.
As prudence, I would advise you to spend 2-3K and get a thin sump guard installed. Even a plastic flexible guard will do as it will protect against minor scrapes and thuds.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

As prudence, I would advise you to spend 2-3K and get a thin sump guard installed. Even a plastic flexible guard will do as it will protect against minor scrapes and thuds.

I was going to post this as part of the next set of questions I had but now that you mention it, I shall indeed get a sump guard put up, preferrably of metal only. But would sump guard be enough or do I need to cover any other sensitive part of the car underbody? I wouldn't want to go overboard unless its really necessary.

Other questions pertaining to the preparation:
1. Should I buy jerry cans to carry extra diesel or is any other alternate better (e.g. bisleri 20L container or 3-4 Five liter bottles). Also, since the boot isn't separate any pointers on how to keep the diesel smell at bay?
2. Which is the best place to get the jerry cans filled at? Rampur/Jeori/Peo?
3. This region is no Zanskar but still checking if I shall carry a stove/small cylinder etc and ready to eat food? (I was planning on carrying just chocolates)
4. I got the 20k service done last month and the car odo now reads 21k, should I still get any part replaced/overhauled?
5. Should I carry extra engine oil (how much) and coolant (1 bottle may be)?
6. I already have the tubeless tyre puncture repair kit, should I still carry a spare tube which might come handy in case of sidewall damage?
7. Are there any Maruti service stations in the area? Should I get the car inspected in case I've crossed a particular area (e.g. Malling nallah, gramphoo, baralacha la) I think i'm being over cautious here

EDIT: @dinesha: thanks for sharing the pic, I'm definitely going to Pin valley!

[tsk1979]

Kaza has a fuel station. If thats functional, you do not need extra fuel.
However, to be on the safe side, carry 4 5 liter bisleri cans.
they are airtight and do not smell
Fill them up around tapri, and then go for a tank full wherever possible. Kaza has fuel most of the time

No need to carry any stove. Just carry cup noodles. Hot water is available everywhere. That said, even maggi is available everywhere in the region.

Carrying a spare tube is a good idea.
Keylong and kaza both should have MASS..
Check maruti website

For underbody, engine protection is enough.

Remember, drive slowly at water crossings, if they look deep walk and see how deep.

[dinesha]

Don’t miss veg thali at “Pappu Dhaba’ in Tapri one of my best meals in the entire trip.

Also very fresh and delicious meals at “Khyoma restaurant” near Kaza bus stop. Again its pure veg restaurant. Their coffee cake- huge portions @ 10/- are delicious and can be carried for 2-3 days for emergency meals. My kids really loved them.

There is a small "German Bakery" kiosk like place near Tabo monastery which serves excellence coffee. They bake fresh brown bread every morning.

BTW:
There is a fuel pump in Powari on the Highway.
There were no electricity since previous night in Kaza, but it was no problem as they used the hand pump to fill the tanks..

Tanveer Sir,
I have been thinking for a while about installing installing Sump Guard in my Civic. It hits lot of speed bumps. Travelling through state and distric roads in UP, Rajasthan and Haryana including many roads in Delhi has become a nightmarish experience.
Please advice and recommend a place in Delhi.

Regards
Dinesh

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by dinesha

Tanveer Sir,
I have been thinking for a while about installing installing Sump Guard in my Civic. It hits lot of speed bumps. Travelling through state and distric roads in UP, Rajasthan and Haryana including many roads in Delhi has become a nightmarish experience.
Please advice and recommend a place in Delhi.

Regards
Dinesh

No "Sir" business please. Call me tanveer.
As for sump guard, Motorcraft noida installs it on rally cars. They may do your civic. Or you may visit mayapuri and contact one of the jeep guys.,
Its a trivial job on most cars, unless you have an underbody which does not provide any mounting holes.
I would recommend plastic guard rather than metal, as an after market metal guard will make a racket if not installed by professionals in this business.

[dinesha]

Tanveer,

Thanks for the info. Motorcraft will not do it. I will go to Mayapuri soon and try there.

Thanks Again.
Dinesh

[hridayjyoti]

Hi fine69,

- It's better to carry fuel, but make sure the jerry can son't leak. The smell of diesel can cause headache.
- There is a petrol pump in Powari, but when I checked there, there was no fuel. So, better fill the tank full in Tapri.
- The last Maruti Authorised dealer, is at Rampur. There is only one automobile workshop at Kaza, so better keep few spares of the vehicle.
- Regarding the stress between Sarahan and Tabo, it's doable.
- Staying at Kaza is not an issue, lots of hotels are there. If everything is full, there are homestays as well. Electricity is a big problem in Kaza. And the petrol pump has a timing from 10am to 6-7pm. So, fill up the tank on arrival.
- Btw, are planning to go Sarahan via Narkanda. If so, the stretch between Shimla and Narkanda is in very bad shape. You will definitely scrap the bottom of swift. Better take the road via Tattapani. It is little longer, but road is good and more scenic.
-Till Kaza there is no major water crossing, Mailing Nala is bypassed now with a new road. So, that should not be a problem.

Cheers!
Hriday

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by hridayjyoti

Hi fine69,
- Btw, are planning to go Sarahan via Narkanda. If so, the stretch between Shimla and Narkanda is in very bad shape. You will definitely scrap the bottom of swift. Better take the road via Tattapani. It is little longer, but road is good and more scenic.
Cheers!
Hriday

Actually there are two options near Tattapani

1) Shimla - Mashobra - Naldehra - Basantpur - Sunni - Luhri - Sainj -Rampur : about 80 Kms upto Sainj
2) Shimla - Mashobra - Naldehra - Basantpur - Kingal - Sainj - Rampur : about 140 kms

Route 2 This road is maintained by the Indian Army and driving is smooth.
The Sunni road (Route 1) has pot holes in between but is much shorter, even shorter then NH22 via Narkanda. Most of the traffic is diverted through the Sunni road once Narkanda gets blocked during winters. This June I took Route 1 on my return journey and saved about two hours compared to the time taken via Narkanda.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by hridayjyoti

Hi fine69,

- It's better to carry fuel, but make sure the jerry can son't leak. The smell of diesel can cause headache.
- There is a petrol pump in Powari, but when I checked there, there was no fuel. So, better fill the tank full in Tapri.
- The last Maruti Authorised dealer, is at Rampur. There is only one automobile workshop at Kaza, so better keep few spares of the vehicle.
- Regarding the stress between Sarahan and Tabo, it's doable.
- Staying at Kaza is not an issue, lots of hotels are there. If everything is full, there are homestays as well. Electricity is a big problem in Kaza. And the petrol pump has a timing from 10am to 6-7pm. So, fill up the tank on arrival.
- Btw, are planning to go Sarahan via Narkanda. If so, the stretch between Shimla and Narkanda is in very bad shape. You will definitely scrap the bottom of swift. Better take the road via Tattapani. It is little longer, but road is good and more scenic.
-Till Kaza there is no major water crossing, Mailing Nala is bypassed now with a new road. So, that should not be a problem.

Cheers!
Hriday

Recent visiters to the region have informed that the shimla narkanda stretch has been improved vastly now, and is doable by small cars. Lots of traffic(mostly small cars) on the highway there.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by dinesha

Don’t miss veg thali at “Pappu Dhaba’ in Tapri one of my best meals in the entire trip....

Thanks for this info, nothing like a good meal away from home.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I would recommend plastic guard rather than metal, as an after market metal guard will make a racket if not installed by professionals in this business.

Do the mayapuri guys install plastic guard also? Any other place near South Delhi you are aware of?

Btw HP map (specially Spiti side) on openstreetmap.org is more or less similar to google/mapmyindia map except just a few more details. E.g. I couldn't find the road to Mud anywhere, shall try google earth today.

Originally Posted by hridayjyoti

- It's better to carry fuel, but make sure the jerry can son't leak. The smell of diesel can cause headache.
- There is a petrol pump in Powari, but when I checked there, there was no fuel. So, better fill the tank full in Tapri.
- The last Maruti Authorised dealer, is at Rampur. There is only one automobile workshop at Kaza, so better keep few spares of the vehicle.
- Regarding the stress between Sarahan and Tabo, it's doable.
- Staying at Kaza is not an issue, lots of hotels are there. If everything is full, there are homestays as well. Electricity is a big problem in Kaza. And the petrol pump has a timing from 10am to 6-7pm. So, fill up the tank on arrival.
- Btw, are planning to go Sarahan via Narkanda. If so, the stretch between Shimla and Narkanda is in very bad shape. You will definitely scrap the bottom of swift. Better take the road via Tattapani. It is little longer, but road is good and more scenic.
I actually did take the Narkanda-Shimla road while coming back from Chitkul 3 months back. GC wasn't an issue but the road indeed was the worst I ever encountered. But like Tanveer said, lately a couple of people have reported that the road is comparatively better now.
-Till Kaza there is no major water crossing, Mailing Nala is bypassed now with a new road. So, that should not be a problem.
That's a relief, hopefully swift makes it through all the water crossings till Jispa too.

Originally Posted by dinesha

Actually there are two options near Tattapani

1) Shimla - Mashobra - Naldehra - Basantpur - Sunni - Luhri - Sainj -Rampur : about 80 Kms upto Sainj
2) Shimla - Mashobra - Naldehra - Basantpur - Kingal - Sainj - Rampur : about 140 kms

I took the 2nd road around 3 months back when going to Chitkul. This is one of the finest roads in Himachal however its a little narrow with loads n loads of blind turns so one has to be extra cautious when on this stretch. This time I'm thinking that I'd go via Shimla-Narkanda road only.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Recent visiters to the region have informed that the shimla narkanda stretch has been improved vastly now, and is doable by small cars.

That's what I've read too.

Now for some more questions:
1. Would I find a decent accommodation in Mud, Losar & Khoksar (planning to stay there on Day 3, 5 & 6 respectively)?
2. Which place, enroute, do I make the bookings for the PWD/Forest/Circuit Resthouses for stay at Tabo/Kaza/Losar/Khoksar?
3. Are these govt. resthouses the best places to stay or should I check out the private budget hotels instead?
4. Would I, a civilian with no govt. official's contact, be able to make the bookings in the govt. resthouses?

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by fine69

Do the mayapuri guys install plastic guard also? Any other place near South Delhi you are aware of?

Mayapuri is scrap market, there will be lots of plastic bumpers etc., lying around. If you do not find a platic sheet, attach a metal sheet. Just attach a rubber sheet(cheaply available in the area) to the metal sheet, and it will damp it

Btw HP map (specially Spiti side) on openstreetmap.org is more or less similar to google/mapmyindia map except just a few more details. E.g. I couldn't find the road to Mud anywhere, shall try google earth today.

I have mapped koumic on OSM, however, mud does not require a map. Near Dhankar monastory (on Kaza-Tabo road), there are signboards near a bridge to pin valley, take that road. Its hard to get lost in spiti and all.

I took the 2nd road around 3 months back when going to Chitkul. This is one of the finest roads in Himachal however its a little narrow with loads n loads of blind turns so one has to be extra cautious when on this stretch. This time I'm thinking that I'd go via Shimla-Narkanda road only.

It will be fast

Now for some more questions:
1. Would I find a decent accommodation in Mud, Losar & Khoksar (planning to stay there on Day 3, 5 & 6 respectively)?
2. Which place, enroute, do I make the bookings for the PWD/Forest/Circuit Resthouses for stay at Tabo/Kaza/Losar/Khoksar?
3. Are these govt. resthouses the best places to stay or should I check out the private budget hotels instead?
4. Would I, a civilian with no govt. official's contact, be able to make the bookings in the govt. resthouses?

Losar has a PWD which is mostly empty, plus a few homestays
Khoksar has few small guest houses with attached bathroom and likes
You do not need to stay in mud. Do Kaza-mud-kaza as a day trip
The rule of PWD rest houses is simple, you arrive, if nobody is staying, they give you a room. 250/night charge. However, some PWDs are in a dilapidated condition

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by fine69

Btw HP map (specially Spiti side) on openstreetmap.org is more or less similar to google/mapmyindia map except just a few more details. E.g. I couldn't find the road to Mud anywhere, shall try google earth today.

Originally Posted by fine69

1. Would I find a decent accommodation in Mud, Losar & Khoksar (planning to stay there on Day 3, 5 & 6 respectively)?
2. Which place, enroute, do I make the bookings for the PWD/Forest/Circuit Resthouses for stay at Tabo/Kaza/Losar/Khoksar?
3. Are these govt. resthouses the best places to stay or should I check out the private budget hotels instead?
4. Would I, a civilian with no govt. official's contact, be able to make the bookings in the govt. resthouses?

1. Mud has lots of Homestays and few guest house. There are few guest houses also. One is Tara Guest House another one just opened these tis season.
If would plan stay there at night you will have more time at Dankar and if possible you could walk to Dankar lake (I have not gone there). you can start early next morning from Mud and straight away proceed to komic/kibber.

2-4. If you are traveling in tourist season you better have other options in hand. Even if you get the booking from concerned office at times caretaker gives away room to other people for few bucks. I had got confirmation from DC office at Rekong Peo for Sangla. When I went there the caretaker didn't give us the room, he said all rooms were full. Apparently he gave away the room for few bucks. I offered him booze and money but he had already sold out. :(