[ravib]

Hello all,

I completed Kedarnath yatra last thursday 19th May 2022. We were blessed to have darshan of lord. However, it was super difficult overall. Would like to share my experience for benefit of others.

BTW, the yatra was suspended couple of days back due to bad weather. We thought we were lucky enough to get darshan without hurdles last week.

https://www.thehindu.com/news/nation...le65455045.ece

Here is my experience.
Our travel agency arranged night stay in Phata. Since there are no tickets available for helicopter and there are reports about severe black marketing happening with exorbitant cost that too without any guarantee/weather conditions etc, we were left with only two choices. Either to walk and trek up or take pony.

1) From Phata hotel, we woke up at 12 midnight, got ready and by 2 am our bus started towards Sitapur. It was about 1 to 1.5 hours drive. The road conditions in between are bad, narrow and quite dangerous too especially in night and during rains.
2) We reached Sitapur parking area around 3.30 and walked for 30 mts for about 2 kms to Sonprayag at 4 am.
3) There was total chaos at Sonprayag to get the jeep/taxi towards Gauri kund. Absolutely not even single police or anyone to organize the queue or manage the taxis. Very few taxis were shuttling between Sonprayag to Gauri Kund and whoever jumps and gets into taxi, able to get a seat. It cost Rs. 50/- per person. So it was very difficult to find seats in jeep/taxi for everyone particularly for old/elderly people. After 1 hour of difficulty around 5 am, we could manage to barge/squeeze inside a jeep/taxi in standing position. It was about 30 mts drive to reach Gaurikund and we reached there around 5.30 am.
4) Since we are running late already , we knew its going to be extremely time consuming to walk and trek up to Kedarnath, because we need to return back same night to Phata hotel to meet the timeline given by travel agency. So only choice was to take Pony. We walked up in Gauri Kund and there are thousands of Ponies available and so many people approach and ask for it.
5) Finalized three pony riders and it costs Rs. 2540 per person one way to go from Gauri Kund to Kedarnath. So collected the ID cards of that pony rider for 3 people in my family and walked up to the pre-paid counter which is about 2 kms in distance and there was a very big queue there. We can also see thousands of Ponies already standing in queue for people to board. Finally after 1.5 hours around 7 am completed the payment for 3 ponies and boarded the ponies.
6) It was 4 hours Pony ride from Gauri KUnd to Kedarnath. Half way through,they stop for one break to eat or drink something, for about 15 mts or so. But i was stunned and wondered about those pony riders, whether they are humans or not! Oh my god!. They were walking and trekking along the steep steps, pulling and controlling the pony without even a single minute break or a glass of water for hours together. Wonder what stamina, they would have built. Wow!. Its important to note that the entire steps and trekking path is extremely difficult even to walk, because of too much slush, mud and slippery surface due to rains and also horse shit spread in each step, and on top of it , thousands of ponies walking in queues and thousands of people walking and trekking along with steps apart from Dolly.
7) We reached Kedarnath base camp around 11 am and from their walked for 30 minutes or so to reach near Helipad from which the queue started.
8) Joined the queue around 12 noon and it took 4 hours in queue to complete darshan. Temple was closed for pooja around 4 pm for 1 hour break, but we could luckily see the lord just before it was closed, else would have waited for another hour or two.
7) After darshan, short break to eat some maggies in the local shops and tea. Since we need to reach back to Sitapur the same night, immediately started to walk back to Base camp Pony boarding area in base camp which takes again 30 minutes or more.
8) As it was almost 5 pm and more, there are only few ponies and no one was ready to return back to Gauri kund. We had to struggle so much to get 3 ponies available and they were asking double the rate of official price. Official cost is about 1750 , but they asked for 3500 per person. Since there is no accommodation available in Kedarnath and we cannot stay back overnight , we had to agree and started the return journey in pony around 5.45 pm and reached Gauri Kund around 9 pm. On the way it started to rain heavily as well and it was getting dark with not much lights. Ponies were slipping in the steps and so were the pony riders too.
9) Again, we have to do the reverse of what we did in the morning, had to walk back for couple of kilometers to reach jeep/taxi area to take us to Sonprayag. It was already around 10 pm and by the time we reached, we were shocked to see a very long queue for 2 kms waiting for jeep/taxi, but this time, police was controlling the queue and jeeps/taxis. We had to wait for more than 1 hour in the queue and finally got a jeep taxi around 11 pm.
10) It again took 30 minutes plus to reach Sonprayag. From there we had to walk couple of kilometers to reach Sitapur parking areas, but since we were dead tired, it took so long to reach those 2 kilometers and reached the bus around 12.30 am next day 20th May.

Overall it took more than 24 hours non-stop without break with so much difficulty, but we felt very accomplished and lucky to get Kedar ji's darshan atlast.

I will try to post few snaps later when i download the fotos from phone to my laptop.

HTH to understand the difficulty levels. It is indeed extremely difficult, if there is no helicopter ride available. Also, people with health issues need to be super careful due to low temperature, altitude sickness and low oxygen.

For people who walked up and trekked all the 17 kms, were even more tired and took more time and lost all energy. Its best for them to stay overnight in Kedarnath and have darshan in the night, and return next day.

Most of the other questions are answered in this thread, so not covering them again.

-Ravi

[Red Liner]

After reading Ravibs account, if people still wonder why the Kedarnath tragedy happened a few years back, well now you know.

Looks like absolutely nothing has changed. Pretty sure more tragedies are in the offing.

[mankuthimma]

I had the good fortune of accompanying few senior citizens in the family for Kedarnath-Badrinath yatra last week. Since a lot of details have already been shared in this thread, I will just share few of my learnings in the hindsight, hopefully helps those who are planning to take this trip.

1. According to locals, the best time to do Char Dham yatra is Sep-Oct. 70% lesser crowds, lower room rates, more peaceful darshan, even more wonderful scenic beauty. May-Jun is the peak season, Jul-Aug is the rainy season

2. We had opted for 7N-8D tour package starting from Delhi. It would have been better to start the tour from Dehradun instead. It could have helped avoid the additional day of travelling between Delhi and Haridwar and a night halt at Haridwar in both the directions.

3. With senior citizens in the group, it is better to prioritize their comfort first than anything else. Better to plan a relaxed itinerary than a fully loaded one. We had night halts at Haridwar, Guptkashi, Kedarnath, Guptkashi, Badrinath, Rudraprayag, Haridwar. These halts were extremely helpful for rest, recovery and acclimatization for altitude/weather changes.

4. Since we get exposed to extreme weathers and altitudes within a short frame of time, from 42 degrees in plains to single digit temperatures at higher altitudes, make sure to carry suitable clothing and they are accessible when needed. For the same reason, we didnt do much side trips or stopovers at each and every temple or POI en-route. And there are pretty bad traffic jams too. Haridwar to Risihkesh took 3 hrs for a distance of 25 kms! End of the day, all these things add up and can easily make people tired.

5. Senior citizens, especially, we the South Indians, are extremely finnicky with their food habits. Make sure that they start weaning away from rasam/sambar/curd rice and get used to roti-subzi/paneer/dal rice diet before starting the trip. This is extremely important. Root cause of most of the issues is the mental block about the food preferences. A pleasant stomach keeps body and mind in sound condition.

6. Ensure that every one is hydrated with water and not just coffee/tea. Helps to beat summer heat and also high altitude sickness. Availability of hygienic and clean rest rooms were not a problem.

7. For these types of long journeys, nothing can beat the comfort provided by Innova . But make sure that the tour operator deploys a newer model. Our car was 7 yr old, 5 lakh KMs driven, still running on original clutch plates, mechanically in very good condition, rattle free cabin, gracefully aged interiors, just shows how reliable this car is. But the seats had become bit hard for our comfort. Probably newer models like Innova Crysta would have provided bit more seating comfort.

8. Even though all of us had physically and mentally preparing to trek the Kedarnath but we ended up taking the helicopter ride both ways. In the runup to the trek, we even had done Tirumala hills walking and Thiruvannamalai girivalam too.
But helicopter ride is also not a cake in the walk too. Only 6 people can travel at a time and there will be hundreds of people waiting. The operator has just one helicopter or max 2 of them in service. The choppers need a break to cool off the engine and also for refuelling. All these things results in 3-4 hrs of waiting time to board after checkin in both directions. There are no proper waiting room facilities. You end up standing in the sun for long times which gets very tiring. Also make sure the helicopter booking is done in advance by the tour operator. I saw many people desperate to buy tickets on the spot which was not possible given the huge amount of crowds.

9. It is sad to see the state of affairs at Kedarnath. This place is filled with social media frenzy young crowd than the pilgrims and also the local pandit mafia. Relatively, we found Badrinath to be more organized.

10. The golden hour for having darshan is to join the queue around 6 PM when the crowds are relatively lesser. In both Kedarnath and Badrinath, we had good darshan within 1 hour, which otherwise takes anywhere between 2-4 hours.

11. Last, but not the least, With lakhs and lakhs of people doing Char dham this time, it is bumper time for Uttarakhand govt coffers. But the authorities have also ensured excellent roads and facilities in challenging geographical conditions too, albeit at a cost to the ecology and natural environment of the most sensitive part of Himalayas.

[rahulk2510]

Hi,

Any pointers to getting a shared taxi upto sonprayag? I will be landing at Dehradun airport to visit Kedarnath in first half of October. I have heard you need to first reach Rishikesh but still no more info.

Also if you could suggest a good and dependable agent who could help me sort out such bookings.

[anbaras]

Originally Posted by rahul4321

I am planning on going to Kedarnath next Monday with my mom and my sister.

We have the helicopter tour booked which I understand takes us to most of these 4 places on the list but your details have helped me understand a lot about how the conditions there will be at this point of time

All 3 of us are on Airtel - do you know how the connectivity there is with Airtel for Voice & Data? Is buying a SIM of another provider preferable? If yes - which one?

I have a few queries as I am also planning to visit Kedarnath in the September month.

1. How much did you spent towards the heli tickets?

2. From which place to Kedarnath? (Guptkashi, Phata or Sersi )

3. Could you please share the travel agency details who booked the heli tickets.

Thank you.

[Wanderers]

Originally Posted by steadfast

Hi All,

I visited Kedarnath on 5th and 6th May, 2022 for the opening ceremony. Any queries and doubts if you plan to visit I will be happy to answer them.

Thanks. Har har Mahadev.

Suppose I have registered for Kedarnath on 5th May. How many days and which all days should I book at Nandibase camp.
Similarly the Badrinath date is 8th May so how long should I book at Badrinath.

Also please clarify where the Nandibase camp is. Is it near starting point/ car parking ?

Thanks

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

Suppose I have registered for Kedarnath on 5th May. How many days and which all days should I book at Nandibase camp.
Similarly the Badrinath date is 8th May so how long should I book at Badrinath.

Also please clarify where the Nandibase camp is. Is it near starting point/ car parking ?

Thanks

Nandi Base camp is on top. Near about 1.5kms before the temple. I am assuming you mean this only. How are you planning to hike up? Helicopter/Pony?

[Wanderers]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Nandi Base camp is on top. Near about 1.5kms before the temple. I am assuming you mean this only. How are you planning to hike up? Helicopter/Pony?

I will try for helicopter. Yes by now I know Nandi is at top. Meanwhile I had to book dormitory at Lincholi as all got exhausted at Nandi including tents. How is Lincholi? I booked for the day of visit to Kedarnath.

Also please suggest for Badrinath and other place if you visited last year (Janki Chatti, Gangotri)

[gajadonga]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

I will try for helicopter. Yes by now I know Nandi is at top. Meanwhile I had to book dormitory at Lincholi as all got exhausted at Nandi including tents. How is Lincholi? I booked for the day of visit to Kedarnath.

Also please suggest for Badrinath and other place if you visited last year (Janki Chatti, Gangotri)

Helicopter ride is always subject to weather conditions. If you have lost the ride due to weather there is no priority the next day. Pony ride is a better option but nothing like trekking. I takes about 6 to 7 hrs . Pony ride is little faster.
Badrinath and Gangotri vehicles can go upto close to the temple.
Badrinath don't miss out to see the Mana village.

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

I will try for helicopter. Yes by now I know Nandi is at top. Meanwhile I had to book dormitory at Lincholi as all got exhausted at Nandi including tents. How is Lincholi? I booked for the day of visit to Kedarnath.

Also please suggest for Badrinath and other place if you visited last year (Janki Chatti, Gangotri)

There are 2 Lincholis, Choti Lincholi and Badi Lincholi. Dormitories are available at Badi Lincholi. And as far as I know, Helicopters don't stop at Lincholi. The helipad there is only for emergency purposes. Badi Lincholi till Kedarnath temple is approximately 5kms. So in case you take helicopter directly to Kedarnath you will have to hike down 5kms to stay post darshan. Then depending on return ticket you will have to climb up 5kms again next day to catch helicopter. Getting a pony at Lincholi till helipad is almost impossible. Neither you will get pony from Lincholi till Gauri Kund in case you don't opt for helicopter for return journey and decide to hike down.

I am not sure about the helicopter ticket whether they provide return ticket for same day or next day or provide only one way ticket. In any case I can suggest you below options:
Option 1: If return ticket is of next day then I would suggest to look for accommodation near the temple area immediately after landing. The prices will be exorbitant like day light robbery. But the advantage is you will be very much near to helipad. Climbing those 5kms from Lincholi till temple will be quite challenging since you won't be acclimatised properly. However don't let go off your dormitory booking, since getting room availability on top is challenging and they don't accept phone bookings. Worst case scenario it's better to have dorm booking ready.

Option 2: If nothing is available on top then you are left with only option to hike up the 5kms for your return journey. In both cases, helicopter or pony you will have to climb up 5kms to get them.

[gajadonga]

[quote=Dodge_Viper;5503677
I am not sure about the helicopter ticket whether they provide return ticket for same day or next day or provide only one way ticket. In any case I can suggest you below options:
.[/QUOTE]

Helicopter ride is always with a return ticket.On the return just need to enter the helipad and make an entry at the office and wait for the turn. There is is no compulsion to return the same day. There are dormitory facilities close by to the helipad as sometimes due to bad weather helicopters don't take off in the evening and stay becomes imminent.

[steadfast]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

I will try for helicopter. Yes by now I know Nandi is at top. Meanwhile I had to book dormitory at Lincholi as all got exhausted at Nandi including tents. How is Lincholi? I booked for the day of visit to Kedarnath.

Also please suggest for Badrinath and other place if you visited last year (Janki Chatti, Gangotri)

Also for helicopter ride please ensure you have booked in advance as it along with hotel stay will be deciding factor of your Kedarnath itinerary.

[anbaras]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

I will try for helicopter. Yes by now I know Nandi is at top. Meanwhile I had to book dormitory at Lincholi as all got exhausted at Nandi including tents. How is Lincholi? I booked for the day of visit to Kedarnath.

Also please suggest for Badrinath and other place if you visited last year (Janki Chatti, Gangotri)

I visited Kedarnath and Badrinath on 27th and 29th of September 2022. I have managed to book Helicopter tickets, from Phata to Kedarnath after sustained efforts in the booking process.

They have opened the tickets for online booking on 1/9/22 for our choosed date(27/9/22). I have been regularly watching out for the opening of bookings from three months earlier.

The tickets will get booked for the next 30 days on the opening date of booking itself. From Phata to Kedarnath, the fare is 4720 per person for return journey.

There are four slots available for booking(6 to 9, 9 to 12, 12 to 3, 3 to 6). For the first two slots, return journey is possible on the day itself and for the afternoon slots, the default return jouney is for the next day only.

I have booked for the 9 to 12 slot. Although We reached the helipad around 8.15 , we boarded the helicopter around 10.15 only. The travel time is only 10 minutes.

We were asked to return to the helipad within 2 hours. There was not much crowd that time(maximum darshan time 1 hour if we go by the queue). We returned to the Helipad around 12.15 but already people were waiting.

They will give us a token number on first come first served basis. My wife and daughter returned to Phata around 1.45PM. After that trip, clouds covered the entire area and the helicopter rides were cancelled till the clouds got cleared.

My Son was not able to withstand the climatic condition even though he got himself covered with five layers of cloth and rain coat( He is 11 years old now). After waiting for almost one hour at the helipad, I went out in search of a room, hoping to stay and return next day morning. No rooms were available at GMVN.

After that, We hired two ponies to Gaurikund(1700 per pony). After descending around 3 Km, I spotted a helicopter going uphill and immediately I asked the Pony owner to take us back to the Helipad. He demanded 2000 per Pony and I said Ok. After reaching the Helipad, they sent back my Son in the first available Helicopter and I returned to the base in the next one around 4.45PM.

The reason for my detailed write up is to prepare whoever intended of visiting Kedarnath in the near future. My suggestions and observations for those planned to go by Helicopter are as follows.

1. Book 6 to 9 slot,reach early and return to the base around 12 to 1.

2. We can carry only up to 2 kg of things with us. Above that we will have to pay Rs150 per kg.

3. Persons weighing above 80 kg will also be charged similarly.

4. If available and possible, book a room in GMVN as an additional safety precaution.

5. I have interacted with some persons who have managed to get the tickets from their hotels at a cost of 15000 per head.

6. Although It is mandatory to book the tickets by providing Aadhaar for every person, It is not checked anywhere.

7. The persons to be travelled are grouped based on their weight only. So be prepared, if your group gets splitted and accomodated in different Helicopters.

Will be happy to help anyone who have further queries. Thank you.

[Wanderers]

Originally Posted by anbaras

I visited Kedarnath and Badrinath on 27th and 29th of September 2022. I have managed to book Helicopter tickets, from Phata to Kedarnath after sustained efforts in the booking process.

1. Book 6 to 9 slot,reach early and return to the base around 12 to 1.

Have booked 6-9 AM slot for helicopter at Sersi. Question ?

1. Do we have to report by 5 AM at helipad?
2. We will be staying in GMVN Rampur which is 4.5 km further ahead towards Sonprayag. We will be travelling via our SUV. Can we park our car at hotel ?
3. Do we get early morning transport to helipad which is in opposite direction?
4. If we take our car to helipad, can we park there ?

[anbaras]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

Have booked 6-9 AM slot for helicopter at Sersi. Question ?

4. If we take our car to helipad, can we park there ?

I have booked from Phata. But I feel there won't be much difference.

1. As they will be following the "First Come, First Serve" basis, It is advisable to go early. They will measure the weight of all the persons and bags, note it down and pool accordingly.

2,3,4. I don't know whether exclusive parking lot is available at the Helipad. Our car was parked at the approach road itself. If you are planning to return on the same day, It is better to use your own car. I hope you will get a clear picture on reaching GMVN Rampur.

Try to locate the Helipad on the previous day itself. Because in our case, the Google map was showing an old location that was used by the company previously. We enquired with a few local persons and found it with little difficulty. There was no sign board at all.

Have a great journey.