Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide Day 1(20th May '23): Reached Srinagar and did local sight seeing - Parks, Shopping etc. Since G20 was happening heavy military presence everywhere.
Day 2: Pahalgam. Enjoyed thoroughly. We need to bargain the pony ride prices to get good deals.
Day 3: Gulmarg. Absolutely stunning place. No wonder its called mini switzerland. Enjoyed throughly. Evening we took a small boat ride in Dal lake. Since G20 was going on the main Dal lake point is closed. Musafir(7006694903) was our driver in Srinagar and was very helpful. We did not pre book the tickets for rope car in Gulmarg and he helped us getting it. Also got a good deal for the Dal lake boat ride.
Day 4: Sringar to Kargil via Sonamarg. Ibrahim(from kargil) came to pick us up from Srinagar. In Sonamarg, took pony ride again and enjoyed thoroughly in the snow. Again bargained for good price.
We were not aware of the alternate day vehicle movement restriction in Sonamarg checkpost. After lunch we were asked Ibrahim to wait inside car near the checkpost.
Our driver told he will somehow get us through around 5 pm as he has spoken to the policemen. Our drivers daughter was diagonized with gall bladder stone and was admitted to hospital in kargil and hence he was desperate to reach Kargil same day. Till 6pm we were not allowed. Wife had to go to restroom and got completely drenched due to a surprise heavy rain. We were in dilemma whether to stay the night in Sonamarg or wait in car and hope for the best to get through to Kargil. Meanwhile while waiting in car, read about the route and was scared about the Zojila pass. We were trying to convince the driver to stay in Sonamarg and leave next day since it rained heavily and wife was drenched and shivering. He was not comfortable with it but i sensed he would agree if we pushed. If not for his daughter situation, would have defintiely stayed in Sonamarg that day. Finally we got clearance to go to Kargil around 6:45pm.
As far as i know, no other vehicles were allowed. We told him to drive slowly since it was dark and it had rained heavily few mins back. Thankfully there were no vehicles from both directions. It was only us, all alone from Sonamarg to Gumri or even further. It was one hell of a scared ride that evening.I became normal only after crossing Gumri and roads were safe. Driver kept informing the Sonamarg check post after crossing important junctions. We reached Hotel Siachen in Kargil around 9:50 pm. The hotel guys were amazing and helped a lot to make the check in smooth and served us hot dinner.
Day 5: Kargil to Leh. Our driver was Nazir for the rest of the trip in Leh. The landscape changes were exciting. Stayed in Glacier view hotel(Group of hotels - Munna, Malik etc). Food and hospitality was good. Located very close to the Leh market. As expected we got breathing issues. Forgot to start with Diamox in kargil itself. Anyways we took 150mg Diamox and rested the day and didnt go out.
Day 6: Leh - Local sight seeing and acclimatization. Shanti stupa, Hall of fame, LEh palace, few monastries and Leh market. Lunch from Wazwan palace in Leh market was very good.Took dinner from Madras cafe restaurant close by which serves very good south indian food.
Day 7: Leh to Nubra. Since it was snowing in Khardung la. We were told to wait for few mins before Khardung la and asked to chain the tires. Only a small stretch had skiddy snow and past that Nazir removed the chains. Roads were good mostly. Took pics in Khardung la. Did rafting, Camel safari, sand dunes, ATV etc in Nubra and checked in to Oriental guest house late evening. Frequent power distruptions at the night in hotel. Food and hospitality was ok.
Day 8: Nubra to Pangong via Agham, Tangste. Roads were not good in most of the stretches in this route and it was kinda offroading. Pangong was very cold. After the routine photo shoot in pangong lake we checked into Pangong Vista resort in the evening. The resort was very close to the lake and hospitality and food was good here. They provided the hot water bags which keeps us warm for 4-5 hours. Still it was one hell of a cold sleepless night in Pangong. Morning again took pics near the lake and took off to Tso Moriri.
Day 9: Pangong to Tso Moriri via Chushul, Kaksang la pass, Mahe. The newly laid road from Chushul - Kaksang la pass - Mahe was good for four wheelers. Though its new tarmac, they have not rolled in even. So the ride is bumpy, but ok for four wheelers. Could see lot of bikers standing and riding in this route due to uneven tarmac. The route was fantastic and not many vehicles. Saw few lakes(mirpal and yaya tso) on the way.
The roads from Mahe to Tso is pretty bad. Checked in to Milky way guest house in Tso and then went to the routine photo shoot. Surprisingly Tso was not as cold as Pangong in the evening though the altitude is more. We had room heater and hot bags and only in the early morning we felt very cold in Tso. Started back to Leh after breakfast.
Day 10: Tso to Leh. After Mahe or Chumathang the road was an absolute beauty all the way till Leh. I felt its the most beautiful road in the whole trip with Indus river on one side and yellow mountains on the other side. On the way spent some time on the hanging bridges over indus, hot water springs, Monastries and checked in to same Glacier view chain of hotels. Nazir(9906229203/9469135113) who was our driver for the entire Kargil-Leh-Nubra-Pangong-Tso-Leh trip was an extremely good driver, good companion and very helpful. He arranged the stay for us in Nubra and Tso Moriri and made sure we were taken care well. I highly recommend him if in case you hire a taxi in Leh and around.
Day 11: Flight to Chennai via Delhi.
Last edited by Rudra Sen : 7th June 2023 at 18:40.
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