[samsag12]

I feel relieved to finally see the progress on the car. The petrol tank, it seems, is beyond repair. You must get another one fitted to be on safer side. BTW whats the status on the mechanicals.

[President]

@Manish: From what I am closely seeing so far, during the meticulous restoration of your SELECT, irrespective of the hurdles experienced (which normally is not uncommon), the tinker seems to be quite professional and the tin work carried out is A-grade. So, just keep a lot of patients and interact with the guy amicably at your pace to get a good resultant finish that you desire with your expertise. I am seeing a very nice bodyline happening already and the car needs some good finishing touches before preparing for the first coat on the bare metal.
Wishing you the very BESHT once again!

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by funkykar

I take the honor to post few pics of MPR as requested by Arun1100.

Karthick & Arun,

Thanks a ton for for the updates. Office work has kept me away, I intend to take leave tomorrow and put the precious time with the lathe guy, engine rebuild . Hope I do not get panic calls form my dealers.

Originally Posted by samsag12

I feel relieved to finally see the progress on the car. The petrol tank, it seems, is beyond repair. You must get another one fitted to be on safer side. BTW whats the status on the mechanicals.

Slow and steady wins the race. Sagar Bhai, yes we will go for a replacement petrol tank. As for the mechanicals they will start right after the body work.

I have bought almost 75% of the spares required. rest depends once we open up. Please help me with the meter surround

Originally Posted by President

@Manish: From what I am closely seeing so far, during the meticulous restoration of your SELECT, irrespective of the hurdles experienced (which normally is not uncommon), the tinker seems to be quite professional and the tin work carried out is A-grade. So, just keep a lot of patients and interact with the guy amicably at your pace to get a good resultant finish that you desire with your expertise. I am seeing a very nice bodyline happening already and the car needs some good finishing touches before preparing for the first coat on the bare metal.
Wishing you the very BESHT once again!

Rony Saheba,

Thanks for the kind and inspiring words. I am also taken away by the knowledge the tinker posses. Every time I talk of originality, he gives a deeper insight on how it used to be. Like the floor mats were having triangular hump to accomodate the foot rest :O}.

As for the treatment sure there would be.

[manishalive]

Guys,

At this point of resotration I have two major doubts.

1. The condition of body is known to all (with part redoxide, part galvanised sheet metal, part painted, part welded). Shortly this will go for painting. Now what is to be done before the painter applies primer / surfacer and goes with sanding.

a.) should I remove all the redoxide and left over paint and bring to shiny metal or leave like this.

b.) Wurth antirust to be applied after stripping down to shiny metal or just like that and is it to be applied all over the body.

c.) There is black pitch on the underside of bonet as it came from factory. Should that be removed and re layered.

d.) Even after the Wurth antirust and the 3M seam Sealer do I need to apply Pitch Black on the underside of the car.

2. Secondly one important point, picture below is my Cylinder head with corroded water channels circuled in red. Now is it accepetable to do alluminium welding (to bring down the aperture size). Taking care of warping of surfaces. After welding the head will be pressure tested. Have to design a jig for the same.



Need some expert comments from the members to clarify my doubts.

[President]

Hi Manish,

Looking at the present status of your car it would be best to scrape the car to bare metal - inside out, upside down, corner to corner before giving it any protective or anti corrosive treatment.
I am aware that Wurth and other related anti corrosive paints/chemicals available in the modern paint shops today can be applied over left over painted patches etc, but viewing the stage your car has reached I would still scrape it completely down (every nook and corner) before the first coat. Believe me, it will all be well worth it and just some extra labour that will go a long way.
My choice is Duco Zinc primer (cost effective and very good rust protection, old technology) or Standox Red primer (short supplied sometimes but very good and expensive) and you have a rust protected body guaranteed for 10 to 12 years.
After the first coat of rust prevention, please be reminded to paint the complete flooring, wheel wells, engine bay, boot area and under part of the car with the same shade and grade of final body paint for long lasting OH REE G NAL E T and durability.
Also, the under part of the bonnet, the dicky, the upper place around the stepney and some particular panels inside the wheel wells should be sprayed with Wurth Stone guard to not only give it protection but to add to the VOW factor towards OH REE G NAL E T after the first coat of primer, whichever you choose.
These are my personal views after having a long term experience with FIATS over the years and I have no doubts to see a professionally high standard turn out, with your car too.

Best regards,
Rony

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by President

Hi Manish,

Looking at the present status of your car it would be best to scrape the car to bare metal - inside out, upside down, corner to corner before giving it any protective or anti corrosive treatment.
I am aware that Wurth and other related anti corrosive paints/chemicals available in the modern paint shops today can be applied over left over painted patches etc, but viewing the stage your car has reached I would still scrape it completely down (every nook and corner) before the first coat. Believe me, it will all be well worth it and just some extra labour that will go a long way.
My choice is Duco Zinc primer (cost effective and very good rust protection, old technology) or Standox Red primer (short supplied sometimes but very good and expensive) and you have a rust protected body guaranteed for 10 to 12 years.
After the first coat of rust prevention, please be reminded to paint the complete flooring, wheel wells, engine bay, boot area and under part of the car with the same shade and grade of final body paint for long lasting OH REE G NAL E T and durability.
Also, the under part of the bonnet, the dicky, the upper place around the stepney and some particular panels inside the wheel wells should be sprayed with Wurth Stone guard to not only give it protection but to add to the VOW factor towards OH REE G NAL E T after the first coat of primer, whichever you choose.
These are my personal views after having a long term experience with FIATS over the years and I have no doubts to see a professionally high standard turn out, with your car too.

Best regards,
Rony

Rony,

Thanks for the detailed reply. But now some other doubt's have cropped up.

1. Ok will go for complete stripping.

2. Duco Zinc Primer, is that what should I go with rather than the Wurth Rust inhibitor.

3. I will paint all the body in same shade.

4. Wurth Stone Guard ?? It is similar to Pitch Black in application and also thick like the pitch.

5. After applying the Wurth Stone Guard (which is black in color) I should resparay the same color shade as of the body over it?

6. You have not commented on Pitch black, I presume Wurth Stone Guard is a similar product?

[IndrojitSircar]

Originally Posted by manishalive

4. Wurth Stone Guard ?? It is similar to Pitch Black in application and also thick like the pitch.

6. You have not commented on Pitch black, I presume Wurth Stone Guard is a similar product?

What is this Pitch black thing? Is it a rubber based paint ?

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by IndrojitSircar

What is this Pitch black thing? Is it a rubber based paint ?

Indrojit,

Welcome back . Yeah rubber based (used as a seam sealer / underbody spray).

Also do you have any advise on Engine Head woes?

[President]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Rony,

Thanks for the detailed reply. But now some other doubt's have cropped up.

1. Ok will go for complete stripping.

2. Duco Zinc Primer, is that what should I go with rather than the Wurth Rust inhibitor.

3. I will paint all the body in same shade.

4. Wurth Stone Guard ?? It is similar to Pitch Black in application and also thick like the pitch.

5. After applying the Wurth Stone Guard (which is black in color) I should resparay the same color shade as of the body over it?

6. You have not commented on Pitch black, I presume Wurth Stone Guard is a similar product?

Duco Zinc Primer is cost effective and time tested old technology primer for its anti corrosive properties, as I mentioned earlier. I would still use it over the modern anti corrosives available in the market. However, it needs 7-8 days for curing/drying before the next coat for best results.

Yes, Wurth will be the first coat over which you can spray anything that is required to match the rest of the area.

I have never used Pitch Black so I cannot comment. You should compare the two in all respects and decide for your suitability.

Cheers,

Rony

[karlosdeville]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Also do you have any advise on Engine Head woes?

The simplest and most effective solution - replace with good condition second hand unit from scrap market. They can be had fairly easily, it will save you a lot of headache. It is simply not worth the risk and effort to revive a dead head when a suitable replacement is readily available.

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by karlosdeville

The simplest and most effective solution - replace with good condition second hand unit from scrap market. They can be had fairly easily, it will save you a lot of headache. It is simply not worth the risk and effort to revive a dead head when a suitable replacement is readily available.

The problem is finding a second hand head. In bangalore you will simply not get it. And getting from Mumbai is not possible as me being busy with office work and that is delaying the project.

Originally Posted by President

Duco Zinc Primer is cost effective and time tested old technology primer for its anti corrosive properties, as I mentioned earlier. I would still use it over the modern anti corrosives available in the market. However, it needs 7-8 days for curing/drying before the next coat for best results.

Yes, Wurth will be the first coat over which you can spray anything that is required to match the rest of the area.

I have never used Pitch Black so I cannot comment. You should compare the two in all respects and decide for your suitability.

Cheers,

Rony

Rony bhai Thanks for clarification. Things are more clear now.

[IndrojitSircar]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Indrojit,

Welcome back . Yeah rubber based (used as a seam sealer / underbody spray).

Also do you have any advise on Engine Head woes?

Well about the rubber based since you want to use it under the body it is not recommended at all. Since it forms a think layer if there is corrosion happening under the layer of the paint, it will not show up and as a result you will have a false sense of security that all is well. So not recommended at all.

As karlos has mentioned ,even i agree that you should go for a replacement head and not try and get it repaired. Since its still available you should go for a good second hand head which would later save you alot of trouble. With a repaired head, it is a dicey situation if its not done well. Apart from that getting a second hand replacement head would be cheaper than trying to get this repaired. Its a tidious job and if not done well may cause even more damage later on.

Originally Posted by manishalive

The problem is finding a second hand head. In bangalore you will simply not get it. And getting from Mumbai is not possible as me being busy with office work and that is delaying the project.

You can get good ones from other cities as well where other team bhpian can help you find something and then can arrange for it to be sent to you. Someone who has the know how and the contacts should be able to help you out easily.

[samsag12]

Manish bhai can you explain as to why a engine head is not available in Bangy scrapyard? Do they ship the whole engine to Mumbai. Will a PP model head work with the old Fiat engine. Heads of PP's are available in plenty here as engine is broken apart into bits and pieces. Do share what to look for before finalising a particular piece apart from the spark plug threads, non corrosive water jacket et al

[manishalive]

[quote=IndrojitSircar;2052345]quote]

Indrojit,

Now that you are recommending against pitch black, what should I put. By the way a proper rust treatment by way of Wurth rust inhibitor will be done prior to applying pitch or Wurth Stoneguard. And on top of that the body color will be sprayed.

As for the advice on Engine head, will take help of our Mumbai friends, who have more knowledge than me .

Originally Posted by samsag12

Manish bhai can you explain as to why a engine head is not available in Bangy scrapyard? Do they ship the whole engine to Mumbai. Will a PP model head work with the old Fiat engine. Heads of PP's are available in plenty here as engine is broken apart into bits and pieces. Do share what to look for before finalising a particular piece apart from the spark plug threads, non corrosive water jacket et al

Yes piece parts are not available for the basic engine. The whole engine is 7 grand . As for the difference in old and new, there are difference like decrease in head height, S1 had different valve seats etc. etc. Adheesh and Mr. Behram are right persons to comment. And what to look for in a used head I am not clear all I know is of NDT techniques to ensure of servicability of a head.

[GreenDay]

Hello Manishji,
Whats the update on your car?

P.S: Where do you plan to do the paint job?