[President]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Is this the original tail lamp glass ( the repro ones that I have seen or have do not have the spearate reflector for the red.) Any comments from the experts.

Attachment 1043447

AFAIK, there never came reflectors on OE or repro either. The ones I have too are not the reflector type. Any which ways these are unique and desirable for vanity.

[karlosdeville]

Some European markets I think demanded these round reflectors by legislation - maybe Switzerland or Sweden amongst others. They are seen in period photos, even on VWs.

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by karlosdeville

Some European markets I think demanded these round reflectors by legislation - maybe Switzerland or Sweden amongst others. They are seen in period photos, even on VWs.

Thanks, I was ordering some from eBay, I see quite a few of these types, but sadly no short beak body available. By the way I saw a immaculate NSU Nekkar in a technik museum, I will post pictures, soon.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by scooby05

I have a Magneti Marelli distributor still on in my Fiat Delight. Should I change it to a Lucas?

Dear Hemant - Magneti Marelli is supposd to work, it does not work most of the time because there is a small cam inside it to adjust the contact breaker gap (many people do not know what this cam does). It dislodges and falls off its mounting. If it hits the centrifugal weights, it damages the distributor beyond repair. Quality of disposable parts like contact breaker is suspect, especially the leaf spring heat treatment, so it breaks and the car stops. It also needs periodic lubrication through the grease dispenser. Lucas TVS is the correct choice. Fortunately, new ones are still available in Opera House, I suggest you pick up one for your use. There are three dress levels, 65A, 65B and 90A. 65B is rare to find but gives best performance amongst the three. There is a non-vacuum advance model also, but it is almost impossible to procure it in pristine condition. Set the dwell angle to 60 degrees and static ignition timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Base adaptor of Magneti Marelli will work with 65B but it may not work with some models where dual adjustment of static ignition timing is provided. Take care to align the low tension lead towards the cylinder block, you may need to rotate the driver gear by 180 degrees if required.

Dear Rony - I will give the differences between the 5 port / 7 port heads shortly.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[FIAT'57'Kolkata]

Dear experts,

Please advice:

What should be the rear spring height of the Fiat Elegant based on the following way of measurement -

• springs open
• string held on two shackle tops
• measurement taken from the centre with the help of a ruler ( string to centre bolt side)

Some people say this height as measured in the above way should be 7.5 inches. Is it true ?

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by FIAT'57'Kolkata

Dear experts, Please advice: What should be the rear spring height of the Fiat Elegant based on the following way of measurement - springs open / string held on two shackle tops / measurement taken from the centre with the help of a ruler (string to centre bolt side) / Some people say this height as measured in the above way should be 7.5 inches. Is it true ?

Dear FIAT57Kolkata - everything written above is incorrect. Please progress as per the diagram given in the Fiat 1100 workshop manual (Adheesh - please scan and post). There is a special tool to align the shackle bush angle with respect to the spring and its camber under particular load, which gives the dimensions that you want. As you do not have access to this tool, please prepare a template on a cardboard and use it. Your "patawala" will fit the shackles almost perpendicular to the specified angle, due to which he will have ease of assembling the springs on the car but the bush will twist and self destruct even before you have driven the car for 1km. Every guy misguides people like this only, I just cannot understand them. Please be careful.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[manishalive]

Here is the required information



Complete information is in the attached PDF.

Merged PDFs.pdf

[HimuraKenshin]

hi guys!
I have a question,
What is the procedure for installing an air conditioner in a premier padmini?
What brand of compressor? what blower assembly?
Compressor location? Condensor location etc?
And also is it advisable to install an AC?
If anyone has installed an AC in their fiat or padmini, i please request them to post pictures of the engine bay as well as the blower unit.
thanks

[HimuraKenshin]

Hiya mates,
I don't know if you guys know, but my mates and i have been restoring a premier S1. I mean, it is my car, but they secretly started the restoration while i was out of the country. More updates on it can be found on my thread, do have a look at it

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...storation.html

I had a few queries:
1. The original owner had converted the cooling system to that of a padmini with a mechanical fan. I would like to know how and where i can source the parts to convert it. I am located in Mumbai.

2. Where can i find the side pattis and a complete lock set in mumbai and what are the expected prices?

3. What are the costs of chroming a bumper, and where can it be done in mumbai. I Stay in navi, mumbai, vashi to be exact.

Eagerly waiting for your inputs!

cheerio!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear all - I learnt something new so I am sharing.

This is on my 1963 model fiat super select MRW 7203. This car belonged to a wonderful Parsi gentleman, a very dear friend of my father. It was with him for as many years as I can remember. I had seen it with him when I was in school. He had used it extremely carefully. I obtained it in April. It needs a full body restoration though, which I will start shortly.

The base engine is extremely good. I know it, as I had only purchased and fitted a brand new "half engine" in this car many years back. The "new" engine seems to be hardly driven in all these years. However, the fuel and ignition systems were both in extremely bad shape as I recieved it. So, with the usual "there is only one way to do a perfect job and that is the only correct way" I painstakingly started tuning the engine. I am giving the details and also the new learning here.

The carburettor was a 1023. However, there was a "vacuum advance" distributor, code 65A fitted. This dress level calls for 13 degrees BTDC centrifugal advance. However, the vacuum advance was not connected, as the carburettor does not have this connection. This carburettor was also in an absolutely pathetic state with a non-original butterfly valve, leaking fuel all over the place! So, I removed the 1023 and fitted a perfect (and now priceless) 1061 in its place and connected the vacuum pipe.

From the time that I obtained the car, the engine had never ran properly. For the first time, idling quality became perfect with the 1061. However, even after setting the valve clearances, the dwell angle and the ignition timing, the engine rpm would not increase, the engine would just sputter and die. During such attempts to accelerate, at least 6 inch long flames came out of the carburettor throat and the exhaust tail pipe. This is called "back firing". This was after setting all parameters exactly to specifications.

The new learning - as idling was perfect and as progression / main circuits were not responding, the carburettor would be a natural suspect. This was not so. The culprit was the distributor assembly.

The root cause - the centrifugal advance mechanism of the distributor was malfunctioning due to major dust ingress through the hole in the side of the main body. The plastic washer below the advance mechanism plate was broken. This was due to the plastic sealing cap missing from its location. Somebody removed something that was not supposed to be removed. The mechanism became so much out of phase that it was sparking almost 90 degrees off its required cylinder (180 degrees on the crankshaft). Therefore, sparks occured at BDC instead of 10 degrees BTDC, resulting in all sorts of back firing. As centrifugal advance mechanism does not work below 900 rpm by design, idling quality continued to remained prefect, so anybody would suspect the carburettor, play around with it and ruin it in the process. As suspected, the carburettor had a throttling ring around its emulsion tube holder (Adheesh - remember your car? same nonsense here also!). Replacing the distributor assembly eliminated the issue completely.

Now the engine starts with a flick of the ignition key, it idled down to as low as 375 rpm (I have reset it to 700 rpm), there are no flames, there is absolutely no flat spot and water spews out of the tailpipe as required. Please note that this performance is with the exhaust system which is still old and choked, it needs to be upgraded to S1 specification. Therefore, it is once again proved that - "there is only one way to do a perfect job and that is the only correct way".

This post is for your information. Please do post your queries, I will be delighted to reply to you.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Drkannant]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear all - I learnt something new so I am sharing.

This is on my 1963 model fiat super select MRW 7203. This car belonged to a wonderful Parsi gentleman, a very dear friend of my father. It was with him for as many years as I can remember. I had seen it with him when I was in school. He had used it extremely carefully. I obtained it in April. It needs a full body restoration though, which I will start shortly.

The base engine is extremely good. I know it, as I had only purchased and fitted a brand new "half engine" in this car many years back. The "new" engine seems to be hardly driven in all these years. However, the fuel and ignition systems were both in extremely bad shape as I recieved it. So, with the usual "there is only one way to do a perfect job and that is the only correct way" I painstakingly started tuning the engine. I am giving the details and also the new learning here.

The carburettor was a 1023. However, there was a "vacuum advance" distributor, code 65A fitted. This dress level calls for 13 degrees BTDC centrifugal advance. However, the vacuum advance was not connected, as the carburettor does not have this connection. This carburettor was also in an absolutely pathetic state with a non-original butterfly valve, leaking fuel all over the place! So, I removed the 1023 and fitted a perfect (and now priceless) 1061 in its place and connected the vacuum pipe.

From the time that I obtained the car, the engine had never ran properly. For the first time, idling quality became perfect with the 1061. However, even after setting the valve clearances, the dwell angle and the ignition timing, the engine rpm would not increase, the engine would just sputter and die. During such attempts to accelerate, at least 6 inch long flames came out of the carburettor throat and the exhaust tail pipe. This is called "back firing". This was after setting all parameters exactly to specifications.

The new learning - as idling was perfect and as progression / main circuits were not responding, the carburettor would be a natural suspect. This was not so. The culprit was the distributor assembly.

The root cause - the centrifugal advance mechanism of the distributor was malfunctioning due to major dust ingress through the hole in the side of the main body. The plastic washer below the advance mechanism plate was broken. This was due to the plastic sealing cap missing from its location. Somebody removed something that was not supposed to be removed. The mechanism became so much out of phase that it was sparking almost 90 degrees off its required cylinder (180 degrees on the crankshaft). Therefore, sparks occured at BDC instead of 10 degrees BTDC, resulting in all sorts of back firing. As centrifugal advance mechanism does not work below 900 rpm by design, idling quality continued to remained prefect, so anybody would suspect the carburettor, play around with it and ruin it in the process. As suspected, the carburettor had a throttling ring around its emulsion tube holder (Adheesh - remember your car? same nonsense here also!). Replacing the distributor assembly eliminated the issue completely.

Now the engine starts with a flick of the ignition key, it idled down to as low as 375 rpm (I have reset it to 700 rpm), there are no flames, there is absolutely no flat spot and water spews out of the tailpipe as required. Please note that this performance is with the exhaust system which is still old and choked, it needs to be upgraded to S1 specification. Therefore, it is once again proved that - "there is only one way to do a perfect job and that is the only correct way".

This post is for your information. Please do post your queries, I will be delighted to reply to you.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Dear Mr. Behram,
My only query to you is when are you coming down to Coimbatore ? My millecento & me will be blessed with your presence !

What is that I can do for you to come here and check out on my car and its engine ? Please sir show some mercy on my millecento & me.

[samsag12]

Require some help from fellow members/Fiatians regarding Electronic Fuel Pump installation on my PP S1. The reason to get one installed is the usual "frequent discharge of battery" using mechanical pump.
I have gone through Mr. Dhabhar's post (post no. 955) regarding the same but would like to know if Ucal still makes same specifics fuel pumps. Would also like to know how to route the pipe, fitment of pump & its wiring & what make/brand of material to procure in today's market.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by samsag12

Require some help from fellow members / Fiatians regarding Electronic Fuel Pump installation on my PP S1. The reason to get one installed is the usual "frequent discharge of battery" using mechanical pump. I have gone through Mr. Dhabhar's post (post no. 955) regarding the same but would like to know if Ucal still makes same specifics fuel pumps. Would also like to know how to route the pipe, fitment of pump & its wiring & what make/brand of material to procure in today's market.

Dear Sagar - my post 955 is very clear. Everything (Maruti van filter and pump with pipes) is located below the spare wheel. Route a wire through the ignition switch or a separate switch, whatever you prefer. After everything is done, put the spare wheel, tighten the center holddown bolt and cover it with the carpet, nobody will even know that it is there. UCAL does not make these pumps any more but they are still available, at least in the Mumbai Opera House market.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Sagar - my post 955 is very clear. Everything (Maruti van filter and pump with pipes) is located below the spare wheel. Route a wire through the ignition switch or a separate switch, whatever you prefer. After everything is done, put the spare wheel, tighten the center holddown bolt and cover it with the carpet, nobody will even know that it is there. UCAL does not make these pumps any more but they are still available, at least in the Mumbai Opera House market.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

What would be the approximate prices for the UCAL fuel pump?

Cheers!

Fintail/Heckflosse!

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Sagar - my post 955 is very clear. Everything (Maruti van filter and pump with pipes) is located below the spare wheel. Route a wire through the ignition switch or a separate switch, whatever you prefer. After everything is done, put the spare wheel, tighten the center holddown bolt and cover it with the carpet, nobody will even know that it is there. UCAL does not make these pumps any more but they are still available, at least in the Mumbai Opera House market.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Thanks a lot for replying to my query sir, just need to know a few things, which are;

- Is there any specific name of that Ucal Electronic Fuel pump, if yes whats it called,
- Can you share a pic of the pump for reference ?
- Do I install the pump in series in this order :
Fuel tank--Van petrol filter-- Electronic Pump-- existing metal fuel line-- mechanical pump (its a replacement unit of Kpacco make)-- Carburetor.

Also I assume following parts will be required for this job,

Ucal El. pump
Maruti Van (carb) filter
Maruti Van (carb) Fuel pipe
Good quality wire & a switch ( shall I attach a separate fuse for it)

PS: I hope am not troubling you with all this but want to do it in the right way.