[codwapeace]

Originally Posted by Rehaan

The CR engine doesn’t have the power below 1000rpm to lug the car along and perhaps a light flywheel further adds to this predicament when starting off. On international forums I’ve read Yeti owners proudly proclaiming (after about 5000 miles of ownership) “…now I only stall about once a week!”. Luckily, the lack of crank-protection makes it easy to fire up the engine once again.

My Jetta does not crank after stalling. I have to turn the ignition off and on again to start it after stalling. Is it a safety feature? What is the purpose? Thanks.

[Ajmal007]

Hello everyone
This is my very first post on team-bhp. Forgive me if I say anything stupid
I recently bought a Skoda yeti 4x4. It has done around 100000 kms. The car was in very good condition other than some noise from the front suspension. After buying I took the car to Jayaprakash (German tech) and he suggested to change few parts like;
Front shock absorbers
Top bearings
Inner boots
Link rods
Lower arm bush

Got the car back yesterday. I was expecting a smooth ride quality after putting new shock absorbers and parts. But was a bit dissappointed, that I felt that the ride quality is on the harder side. But very good on the handling side. Is it normal for a 4x4 yeti to have a stiff/hard ride quality?
It would be great if Yeti owners can help me out with this!

Note: The car I use other than yeti is Honda city (2012). So basically the ride quality in my Honda city very soft.

Will do a full experience/review with more pictures/video soon

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by Ajmal007

Is it normal for a 4x4 yeti to have a stiff/hard ride quality?
It would be great if Yeti owners can help me out with this!

Please sample any other Yeti to see how that one rides, you may have your answer.

For a start, Yeti does not have a cushiony / soft ride, but it handles well.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Ajmal007

Got the car back yesterday. I was expecting a smooth ride quality after putting new shock absorbers and parts. But was a bit dissappointed, that I felt that the ride quality is on the harder side.

How old are the tyres on the car?

Were they changed anytime prior to you purchasing the car or are the tyres stock and at their life's end?

[Ajmal007]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Please sample any other Yeti to see how that one rides, you may have your answer.

For a start, Yeti does not have a cushiony / soft ride, but it handles well.

I tried an other Yeti. Even that had suspension issues (damper leak). So cannot really take that into consideration. By the way my yeti is softer than the other one

Originally Posted by a4anurag

How old are the tyres on the car?

Were they changed anytime prior to you purchasing the car or are the tyres stock and at their life's end?

The tyres were changed long back (got to know from the previous owner) I think it will run 10-15k more. Currently running on Yokohamas

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by Ajmal007

Hello everyone
This is my very first post on team-bhp. Forgive me if I say anything stupid
I recently bought a Skoda yeti 4x4. It has done around 100000 kms. The car was in very good condition other than some noise from the front suspension. After buying I took the car to Jayaprakash (German tech) and he suggested to change few parts like;

Note: The car I use other than yeti is Honda city (2012). So basically the ride quality in my Honda city very soft.

Will do a full experience/review with more pictures/video soon

Yes the Yeti does have a Hard ride compared to most sedans and this contributes to the stable ride and handling of the car at higher speeds. I had a Yeti for 7 years (2010-2017) and enjoyed it quite a lot - I had sold mine after covering 100,000 kms and the new owner since then has covered another 60,000 kms since and it is still doing well.
To soften the ride quality, I had upsized the tyres to 215/65 R16 size from the OE 215/60 R16 size and the higher aspect ratio cushioned the ride better. Also, I used to keep the air pressure between 32-33 on all the tyres.
Also another upgrade you must do is the headlights as the H4 bulbs are just not sufficient enough for night driving.

I can recommend these LED bulbs in h4 type -But be sure to take Canbus variants as the Yeti uses a Canbus system.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000292849358.html But currently there are not shipping to India due to Logistics issues - hopefully they will be available for shipping after some time.

All the best for your Yeti and enjoy your ride - It is a great car, though a bit quirky in looks!

[Ajmal007]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Yes the Yeti does have a Hard ride compared to most sedans and this contributes to the stable ride and handling of the car at higher speeds. I had a Yeti for 7 years (2010-2017) and enjoyed it quite a lot - I had sold mine after covering 100,000 kms and the new owner since then has covered another 60,000 kms since and it is still doing well.
To soften the ride quality, I had upsized the tyres to 215/65 R16 size from the OE 215/60 R16 size and the higher aspect ratio cushioned the ride better. Also, I used to keep the air pressure between 32-33 on all the tyres.
Also another upgrade you must do is the headlights as the H4 bulbs are just not sufficient enough for night driving.

I can recommend these LED bulbs in h4 type -But be sure to take Canbus variants as the Yeti uses a Canbus system.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000292849358.html But currently there are not shipping to India due to Logistics issues - hopefully they will be available for shipping after some time.

All the best for your Yeti and enjoy your ride - It is a great car, though a bit quirky in looks!

Thanks Behemoth
I read all the posts on Your yeti. One of the reasons for buying this Yeti
About the headlights. The previous owner already changed it to an other brand which is good and it doesn't give any warning lights too.

Planning to change the tyres after 7k (service to be done). Really like Yokohama tires for their less roadnoise and better sidewall strength. Using earth 1 on my Honda city too.
But as you mentioned, couldn't find a 215 65 r16 on earth series. There are 205 65 r16 or should I go for Geolandar AT ? If so will it make the ride even bad?

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by Ajmal007

Thanks Behemoth
I read all the posts on Your yeti. One of the reasons for buying this Yeti
About the headlights. The previous owner already changed it to an other brand which is good and it doesn't give any warning lights too.

Planning to change the tyres after 7k (service to be done). Really like Yokohama tires for their less roadnoise and better sidewall strength. Using earth 1 on my Honda city too.
But as you mentioned, couldn't find a 215 65 r16 on earth series. There are 205 65 r16 or should I go for Geolandar AT ? If so will it make the ride even bad?

Thanks, happy to know my Yeti threads helped you decide!
You can go for 205 65 R 16 size too, but it will reduce the road grip a little bit. Steering effort and noise will reduce with this size.
Another good option is Falken Wildpeak tyres which were available in 215 65 R16 size earlier. They are also good. Check if you can get Michelin Latitude - they are really great too, but expensive.

[Ajmal007]

Hi
Today I would like to share my observations and experience on this particular error code "P0087". I believe this code applies to all VW, Skoda, Audi etc.
One day morning I took the car and was going to buy some groceries. Suddenly the glow plug(yellow spring) warning light showed up and the vehicle started limping (limp mode). I slowly drove back home and called Mr. Jayprakash to check on this and to ask him if it's okay to drive the car till workshop. He asked me to drive slowly and come.
He checked the car using the VCDS software and got this error code and said "Sir, I think the fuel pump is failing. It will cost around 80k to replace. But we have to check thoroughly to confirm it"
I went blank for a moment. Then asked him to check the fuel lines and pump. Basically P0087 code is "Low fuel system pressure"
He checked and everything was fine. So then and there I checked few skoda forums for similar error code situations and found one guy had the same problem and he fixed it by charging the diesel filter.
I suggested Jay to do that. Thankfully it worked

Findings :
Other than fuel line leak or pump failure, it can also be a diesel filter or a broken/leaking diesel tank cap too
Hope this help someone

[milu2fast]

I am also in need of shocks and bilstein b6 are I guess the best. OEM at showroom itself comes around 75k with bushes. I contacted Pete's but they don't have them in stock. And I can't get the correct part number as there are 50mm and 55mm for front shocks as per international site. I know they are expensive but we have decided to not let go of the snowman anytime soon, so it's a good mid life gift for the car. Any idea about anyone else who might be able to do bilstein installation, I can get the car to any garage in South India.

[blackbeast]

Originally Posted by milu2fast

I am also in need of shocks and bilstein b6 are I guess the best. OEM at showroom itself comes around 75k with bushes. I contacted Pete's but they don't have them in stock. And I can't get the correct part number as there are 50mm and 55mm for front shocks as per international site. I know they are expensive but we have decided to not let go of the snowman anytime soon, so it's a good mid life gift for the car. Any idea about anyone else who might be able to do bilstein installation, I can get the car to any garage in South India.

Hey, how did you conclude 75k for struts + bushes at ASS. Im pretty sure they won't cost half as much. Even B6 will not cost 75k if you buy and ship yourself from outside india. I have b6 part numbers will share if you need. They are 55mm in dia. That said OE will be cheaper and just enough nicer for better ride comfort. Get a proper quote not a verbal one from SA

[milu2fast]

Originally Posted by blackbeast

Hey, how did you conclude 75k for struts + bushes at ASS. Im pretty sure they won't cost half as much. Even B6 will not cost 75k if you buy and ship yourself from outside india. I have b6 part numbers will share if you need. They are 55mm in dia. That said OE will be cheaper and just enough nicer for better ride comfort. Get a proper quote not a verbal one from SA

Thanks.
I have ordered b6 from UK. Hopefully will be a wise choice. I didn't want to go OEM again because I felt it's not ideal for our roads. I know b6 will be more stiff but hoping they won't fade over continuous working. The OEMs have been really inconsistent over continued driving over less than ideal road surfaces, probably as they are at the end of their lives. The quote was for the full service, but definitely the shocks cost the bulk of it. Frankly I didn't go for a written estimate. I contacted another garage who deals with VAG cars and he said he can do it for under 50k. But supply of parts is still not back to pre covid days.

[amit_i]

I recently got the front shocks replaced after 108,000 kms of running and they costed around 16.8k + 2k of labour at the A.S.S. The bushes were in nice condition and didn't need replacement. So overall cost 18.8 k for front shocks. Quite impressed with the A.S.S. which is hardly with any Skoda authorized dealer.

[VJ05]

Dear Yeti Owners,

I'm in the market for a pre-owned Yeti and looking at various options. Most of the cars have >80K KM in the odo. Would like to know the approx. cost for replacement of Water Pump, Clutch & Timing Belt as it needs to be done after 90K odd Kms? Any insights will be appreciated.

Cheers!
VJ

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by VJ05

Dear Yeti Owners,

I'm in the market for a pre-owned Yeti and looking at various options. Most of the cars have >80K KM in the odo. Would like to know the approx. cost for replacement of Water Pump, Clutch & Timing Belt as it needs to be done after 90K odd Kms? Any insights will be appreciated.

Cheers!
VJ

The cost varies wildly based on where you get the work done. My personal recommendation would be to get it done at Skoda if you have the money to splurge and more importantly don't know a good FNG. Certain practices (not reusing old suspension bolts, locking the timing correctly and changing the entire kit) are only followed at ASCs generally. FNGs sometimes skimp on these things. A timing kit change with the water pump should be around the 15K mark. A full suspension overhaul will be around 70-80K. The clutch will be in the same ballpark.

If you get it done from an FNG, this is what you can expect:

- Timing Kit will be around 6-10K depending on what brand you source (INA Schaeffler is the cheapest. The OE VAG kit is 10K or thereabouts)

- Water pump will be around 3K (almost on par with the dealership)

- Clutch and flywheel will be around the 40-45K mark depending on where you source the parts and labour charges. LUK is the recommended brand