[MSCar28]

Originally Posted by Krish.s

Michelin tyres PS4 205/55/16 are available in Chennai. I enquired with multiple tyre shops, and prices range from 11k-12k for each. Stock Apollo tyres buyback price is 5k. Although i haven’t received my car yet, I’ve booked for the tyres.

I’m still contemplating, whether if I should stick with the stock 16-inch or go for 17-inch with new alloys. Also what would be the ideal tyre size for an 17 inch upgrade?
Any suggestions would be helpful and welcomed.

I’m going for a Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) tomorrow. Keeping high hopes and so excited for it!

Oh fantastic! Good luck with the PDI and hope you get your machine soon. I'd recommend to stick with manufacturer specification of 16 inchers. But if you must upgrade to 17 inchers then 205/50/17 would be recommended profile to ensure the differential circumference is within 2%

check the link to calculate the differential http://tyrestore.in/upsizing.htm

[AlwaysASwifty]

Ride and Handling:

Most of the reviews mentioned suspension is soft, I do not agree. Suspension is very well balanced and mature in turbo variants. I had driven both NA and turbo cars on same road. Its the stock tyres which let the car down. I had upgraded to 225 45 R17 Yokohama Bluearth GT tyres and there was huge difference in dynamics , braking, and steering feel. The ride did get a bit stiffer though.
.

Choosing a different aspect ratio and size of tyres … does that mess with the tune ? You did mention a stiffer ride but what if one stuck with the same aspect ratio and size but moved to a Yokohama or Michelin .. how much of a difference would that make ? I am looking to change but am not clear what is the better option ? The tyre dealer I called advised moving to a 225/60 and going with a Yokohama as it has a 5 year warranty and is as good as a Michelin ? Looking for help here.

[Krish.s]

Can someone help me with few queries please. Ty.

I went for the PDI today, everything seemed to be in order and noticed a few things. The model in question is SX(O) Turbo DCT.

1. Does the apple car play work from both USB-A & C ports? In my case Apple CarPlay worked only from USB-A. When i connected to USB-C, phone projection couldn’t start apple car play, except it was just charging.

2. How to access the user settings from steering wheel mounted controls?
For example, if I want to increase the brightness settings of all interior lights.
I just couldn’t find it or access it, so ended up using touchscreen to adjust the setting I wanted.

3. I noticed the lock & unlock horn sound to be less. Kinda muffled compared to normal functional horn sound. Is this how it works?

4. The sound from the rear speakers (bose) was low. I did see few posts related to this issue, but has the previous OTA updates fixed this or shown any improvements? Is it happening to both Bose/normal speakers?

If OTA did find a solution to it, though my cars manufacturing date is first week of March 24, I guess it hasn’t got the updates. Is there anyplace where I need to check for version no?

5. A very silly one I guess.. DRL stay on full time I suppose? Even if the light settings is in OFF pos.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Krish.s

Can someone help me with few queries please. Ty.

1. Does the apple car play work from both USB-A & C ports? In my case Apple CarPlay worked only from USB-A. When i connected to USB-C, phone projection couldn’t start apple car play, except it was just charging.

Same with my Android Auto.
Only works with USB-A

2. How to access the user settings from steering wheel mounted controls?
For example, if I want to increase the brightness settings of all interior lights.
I just couldn’t find it or access it, so ended up using touchscreen to adjust the setting I wanted.

As far as I know, its not possible to do so with steering controls.

3. I noticed the lock & unlock horn sound to be less. Kinda muffled compared to normal functional horn sound. Is this how it works?

No idea, I disabled that sound within a day of getting the car.

4. The sound from the rear speakers (bose) was low. I did see few posts related to this issue, but has the previous OTA updates fixed this or shown any improvements? Is it happening to both Bose/normal speakers?

If OTA did find a solution to it, though my cars manufacturing date is first week of March 24, I guess it hasn’t got the updates. Is there anyplace where I need to check for version no?

Will check but I remember there is some about section in the settings somewhere.

5. A very silly one I guess.. DRL stay on full time I suppose? Even if the light settings is in OFF pos.

Yes.

Congrats on your car.





My first highway trip from Hyderabad to Chennai.

Solo trip. The car is very comfortable and you really dont feel like taking any breaks. So the nagging started from the car. No idea how to disable that.

I once stopped for refueling and had the car on the whole time. But it did not register as a break and the car kept saying that I have been driving continuously.

The heavy traffic on the Nh16 resulted in the milage dropping quite a bit.

From Hyderabad to Ongole it averaged around 17 kmpl.
But overall it dipped down to 15.5 kmpl.

But its a lovely car to drive on the highway with so much power available at just a little tap of the accelerator.

[BudgetFailure]

So weird thing happened yesterday while on way to Bangalore at night.
Near the Shoolagiri area, at the uphill there was stand a still traffic due to a diversion. Vehicles were crawling behind trucks and it was a stop and crawl type of traffic. Initially the car was crawling fine then a couple of mins in, my car engine stopped taking race, engine light blinked once, and post that it became hard to get the car moving with the crawling traffic. I somehow managed to get the car to left most lane and then switched off the engine for a few mins. There was no leakage no smell or smoke from the engine bay, idle it a couple of mins and then the car got moving effortlessly. And interestingly the engine felt freer after this incident.


During the incident the engine RPM failed to go above 1.6 rpm with clutch pressed all the way in. As soon as I was releasing the clutch lever to engage the gear the engine would stop giving power. The light did not come back again, only at the start, and due to the place I was in, I couldn't immediate stop the vehicle, so post that engine light I had the car moving uphill for good two mins. Not sure what happened or if it would have damaged something (surely did not feel like that for next 70km).


It is a MT Turbo, would appreciate if someone can throw light on what could have gone wrong during the manoeuvre?

A small clip showing the engine not responding to accelerator input.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=7KfAoxfK...sdbUX2ZkrlpFTk

[bblost]

Originally Posted by BudgetFailure

So weird thing happened yesterday while on way to Bangalore at night.

This sounds like a Throttle Body issue.

My old Chevy Sail UVA had this in its initial days. The cleaning did not help and they replaced it under warranty.

It started with this issue of engine losing power and progressed to engine switching off on its own.

Once the part was replaced it never came back in the 100k kms driven on that car.

[MyLife_MyCar]

Last week, I got a moment to drive the new Harrier, basically just take it out from apartment parking to make way for another vehicle.
I realised that Harrier's auto hold works even in the reverse gear, whereas, Verna's doesn't.

Anyone know why this behaviour in Hyundai?

There's an upward slope when entering the parking from the road. While reversing the Harrier back into the parking, its auto hold in R mode made it convenient to roll it up the slope. Having experienced this, I definitely miss it in the Verna now!

[BudgetFailure]

Originally Posted by bblost

This sounds like a Throttle Body issue.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will get it checked this week. Though it seems off that I encountered it once in first 1200km and nothing was found in servicing, and then yesterday after 12k km, it was recently serviced.

[07CR]

Originally Posted by MyLife_MyCar

There's an upward slope when entering the parking from the road. While reversing the Harrier back into the parking, its auto hold in R mode made it convenient to roll it up the slope. Having experienced this, I definitely miss it in the Verna now!

While Auto hold may not work in reverse, the Verna should have hill hold control, which should help in reversing into slopes. Did the hill hold control not work in reverse?

It works in my Seltos FL.

[MyLife_MyCar]

Originally Posted by 07CR

While Auto hold may not work in reverse, the Verna should have hill hold control, which should help in reversing into slopes. Did the hill hold control not work in reverse?

It works in my Seltos FL.

I don't think Verna got hill hold. Or if it's there, I haven't experienced it yet!

[BudgetFailure]

Originally Posted by bblost

This sounds like a Throttle Body issue.

My old Chevy Sail UVA had this in its initial days. The cleaning did not help and they replaced it under warranty.

It started with this issue of engine losing power and progressed to engine switching off on its own.

Visited service center and their diagnosis didn't find anything. I guess i will have to figure out a way to replicate the issue and show it to them. Nothing came in the automated diagnosis either, not even a warning or log.

Originally Posted by MyLife_MyCar

I don't think Verna got hill hold. Or if it's there, I haven't experienced it yet!

It has, i have experienced it, and I do not enjoy it very much in a MT, as you need to give enough race before it let's you move, and it is always jerky. (DCT might be a different story)

[bblost]

Originally Posted by BudgetFailure

Visited service center and their diagnosis didn't find anything. I guess i will have to figure out a way to replicate the issue and show it to them. Nothing came in the automated diagnosis either, not even a warning or log.

Ask them to do the cleaning of the Throttle Body the next time.

My Sail was not so technologically advanced as our Verna and there were no error codes etc for this.

I had documented this: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post3275083 (BBLost's Chevrolet Sail UVA: 100k. Full Suspension Overhaul.)

I was always able to replicate it, when driving in heavy traffic for a couple of minutes.

[aypatel]

Originally Posted by greyhound82

Magnetic sunshade : the fitment is not that great but shading is good.

Look at the alignment issue and sunshade mostly falls down when you open the door in strong manner

Thanks greyhound82! Could it be a fitment issue with that particular piece? Did you take it up with the dealer? Or the design of the door might be such that there is no sufficient metal all around for the sunshade to firmly attach itself. Also the position of the magnets can be adjusted for it to hold better.

[BudgetFailure]

Originally Posted by bblost

Ask them to do the cleaning of the Throttle Body the next time.

Definitely asking them to do this next time. And thanks for the reference!

[greyhound82]

Originally Posted by aypatel

Thanks greyhound82! Could it be a fitment issue with that particular piece? Did you take it up with the dealer? .

I didn't take up this with dealer as I hardly think its issue with this piece.

Please go through below images and I hope you will get to know the issue


Due to that plastic insert the alignment is off on the sides while the magnets are properly attached to metal parts on the top




Another arrangement I tired





But end of the day they do fall frequently. Any other suggestions are welcome