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Originally Posted by Grootman Found an alternative solution as well. Hooked up the dashcam to the USB type C port which turns off. The dashcam then runs on its internal battery |
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Originally Posted by Aviator_guy Oh that's nice that USB port in your car is compatible and free to be used with dashcam. Also, dashcam gets switched off few seconds after the car is switched off so there is not much of a footage the cam can record. Is it different in the cam you have? |
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Originally Posted by JediKnight Yes it can. Car battery store very little energy. It is designed to give short bursts of high power. |
I went through a bit of struggle to get this right (or as close as possible) for my Kodiaq. At home, I have safe covered parking that is covered by my CCTV, but occasionally, I have to leave the car at hotel parking when I am driving outstation for work. And though I try my best to not leave the car with valets (have been successful so far), there could be situations where it is unavoidable. I wanted parking surveillance and internal camera to handle these situations, and after a lot of evaluation (supercapacitor and such), I decided to splurge on Viofo A229 3-CH.
This was right after I took delivery of the car in Dec 2023, so I talked to both my sales advisor and the dealer's service folks, and requested if they can hardwire it. They refused, stating that they do not hardwire even the Blaupunkt dashcam that is supplied as Skoda official accessory. They also politely advised me to avoid hard-wiring, since chances are quite high that this will void warranty. Apparently, if they detect hardwiring, it might be recorded in Skoda's records, and then, after a few years, if there is a warranty claim on anything related to electrical system, this might be quoted as a reason to refuse warranty. Since I had taken an extended warranty that covered me upto 6 years, I was concerned.
A couple of other trusted enthusiast friends suggested going for hardwiring to the fuse box or to the OBD port, and then disconnecting and hiding the leads before taking to service. I was not very comfortable with this - you never know when you have to get towed for something, and this might be the last thing you remember. Also, the Skoda SA had said that excess power draw from specific leads would get recorded as an event and will be flagged, even if the hardwiring is disconnected before car is taken to service, and this might trigger additional checks (I am sceptical about the event-flagging bit).
Anyway, after all these, I got a Rhundo-RS21S device, connected it to the 12V socket, configured it to cut off power to the dashcam if voltage went below 12.1V, and connected the dashcam to its USB port. The device also keeps displaying the battery/alternator voltage available on the 12V socket, and that is pretty nice. Now comes the next surprise - the dashcam was tripping once in a while. Some troubleshooting with the dashcam vendor revealed that since this has to power all three cameras (front, rear and interior), power from the USB port would not be enough, and the 12V port on the Rhundo device would have to be used. I did that, and occasionally, the dashcam was still tripping. After observing these restart events along with the displayed voltage revealed an interesting pattern - this was happening mostly when the car was coasting, and the voltage displayed was a value less than the cut-off. The displayed voltage sometimes went as low as 11.8V, and this got me worried.
Off to the service center for a battery and alternator check. They did a full test and confirmed that the battery was alright. The service advisor said that the alternator was fine too, but he was not able to explain the drop in voltage. Then, after some research on the Internet on the Kodiaq's electrical system, and after discussions with some knowledgeable friends, I got to the conclusion that the battery management system in cars with Start/Stop systems and AGM batteries are pretty complex, and go to high voltages (14V is the max I have seen) when the battery needs charging, and might come down to 12V when it is charged. Also, when engine RPM is low (coasting), and if the electrical load is very high, the alternator output might come down for short periods, before the BMS signals the ECU and drives up the RPM (get out of coasting). (I am still a little worried about the value less than 12V that I see occasionally).
It took month to figure all these things, but things are largely fine now. I do not use the Rhundo device normally - I just connect the dashcam to 12V socket (so that I do not have to worry about dashcam restarting randomly because of voltage threshold) and disconnect when I park at home. When I am on longer trips, I keep the dashcam always connected via the Rhundo device. The battery comes down to 12.1V in a couple of days, triggering a cut-off, but I have active monitoring till then. If needed, I can start the car or take it for a spin once in two days to charge the battery back up.