[phi]

Originally Posted by LazyBoy2000

Can anyone tell me what should be the ideal time (kms) to get the engine changed. I read somewhere the best time is half of the specified service value (15k). Is that correct?
I talked to service center and they said 7500km is too early. You can get it done on 10K.

I am approaching 5K now and I am planning first oil change at 7.5K. Talked to service center, they said they can do it as running repair so that the next one can be done at first service under SMP.

Based on my current usage, I will mostly hit 15K just before the 1-year mark, so this makes sense. I also have enthusiast friends who go with 10k interval and have been happy with that.

[freebear]

Lately, I've noticed that the windshield of my Kodiaq becomes unclear during night drives, especially because of the glare from the headlights of oncoming vehicles. Given the dust from construction debris and other elements on Bangalore roads, is there a specific method or approach to clean the windshield effectively?

[Old Dude]

Originally Posted by freebear

Lately, I've noticed that the windshield of my Kodiaq becomes unclear during night drives, especially because of the glare from the headlights of oncoming vehicles. Given the dust from construction debris and other elements on Bangalore roads, is there a specific method or approach to clean the windshield effectively?

After removing loose dust with a Joppa brush, I use Pro-clear waterless wash with a liberal spray & wipe with a microfiber cloth ( this removes all the hardened dirt / mud spots / tree sap a hard water spots etc), followed by a second round with 3M or Turtle Wash windscreen cleaner ( juts two squeeze on to a clean microfiber cloth) to remove all the hazing and streaks from the ProClear.

I also use a clean microfiber with a trace Amy of 3M or turtle wax windscreen cleaner ( sprayed on to the microfiber) to clean and remove any dust / finger prints from inside of the windshield once in 2 / 3 months. I never drive with my windows down / sunroof open for fear of getting dust to the interiors.

[SilverSmoke]

Originally Posted by LazyBoy2000

Can anyone tell me what should be the ideal time (kms) to get the engine changed. I read somewhere the best time is half of the specified service value (15k). Is that correct?
I talked to service center and they said 7500km is too early. You can get it done on 10K.

I strongly believe you meant engine oil change.

Oil should be changed ideally at 7.5K KMs if not possible, then 10K KMs should be the last one can think to keep engine healthy.

Later than that, it's just slushing the engine.

[LazyBoy2000]

Originally Posted by SilverSmoke

I strongly believe you meant engine oil change.

Oil should be changed ideally at 7.5K KMs if not possible, then 10K KMs should be the last one can think to keep engine healthy.

Later than that, it's just slushing the engine.

Hahaha Yup I meant engine oil. Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by phi

I am approaching 5K now and I am planning first oil change at 7.5K. Talked to service center, they said they can do it as running repair so that the next one can be done at first service under SMP.

Based on my current usage, I will mostly hit 15K just before the 1-year mark, so this makes sense. I also have enthusiast friends who go with 10k interval and have been happy with that.

I think it would be best to visit the service center and get them to do a running repair and get the oil changed.

[LazyBoy2000]

Completed a short 1700 KMs trip with the Kodiaq during Holi week. Did not take much pictures.

Here are a few of my observations.

1. The ODO reads around 8000 kms now and the car drives as smooth as it did at 11 kms on the first day of delivery.
2. It is very hard to spot another Kodiaq on the road, it is certainly a unique vehicle. You will find people staring specially in small towns and cities.
3. Doing triple digit speeds are not a problem at all.
4. I and my wife are sedate drivers, for us comfort >>> speed. So, the overall mileage we got was 16Km/ltr.
5. Stability and handling at high speed is phenomenal. Nothing comes close at this price. I had to brake hard and manoeuvre hard at 90km/hr to avoid an idiot motorcyclist crossing the road and the car felt rock solid and glued to the road.
6. The car is pulling slightly to the left, will have to get wheel alignment and balancing done. This would be the first wheel alignment and balancing after the car's delivery.
7. I also hear a very minuscule rattling noise from the driver side when bass heavy music is played. I haven't been able to point out where the noise is coming from. Please let me know if I should get this checked. I do not want to get the door panel opened for a slight inconvenience.
8. The front left parking sensor has a mind of its own. It starts to beep randomly. Since this seems to be an random issue will wait and observe.
9. DCC is a game changer. No car in this price bracket can match the comfort in "Comfort" mode.

I'm planning to get the engine oil changed at a running repair. Will update how that conversation goes with the service center.

Overall this is a "superb" car. Super duper happy with the car.

[sahak]

In spite of all my efforts to keep the rats away, one entered my car and damaged the fuel line and coolant line. Towed to Raja Skoda service center on 26th March. Got an acknowledgement from Skoda/VW customer service on 29th. No ETA, No estimate so far :(

Anyone had similar experience ?

[SilverSmoke]

Originally Posted by sahak

In spite of all my efforts to keep the rats away, one entered my car and damaged the fuel line and coolant line.

Sorry for the incident. Don't want to dishearten you, but expect 30 days atleast.
Is your policy covering rat damage?

[Aviator_guy]

Originally Posted by Grootman

The ride was smooth until June 2023 when the battery died. We were away on a family vacation for around 10 days and the car was parked at my apartment lying unused. After returning, when i tried to enter the car, i discovered that everything was dead. remote unlocking did not work. Had to manually unlock the door.
Service center blamed it on the dashcam that i had put into the car (70mai). They said that as that was put into the 12v socket (which is permanently switched on in Kodiaq) and not into the type C USB port, it had drained the battery.

Usually 12V sockets in most cars are NOT always ON so we don't need to worry about battery drain when car is parked for long duration but guess it's not the case with Skoda. If you want to use dashcam for parking surveillance, it has to be hard wired and can not be left ON in 12V socket. Even after hard wiring, dashcams get switched offs (auto cut off) when battery falls below a threshold voltage. This will ensure one doesn't end up in dead battery situation.

[Grootman]

Originally Posted by Aviator_guy

Even after hard wiring, dashcams get switched offs (auto cut off) when battery falls below a threshold voltage. This will ensure one doesn't end up in dead battery situation.

Found an alternative solution as well. Hooked up the dashcam to the USB type C port which turns off. The dashcam then runs on its internal battery

[Aviator_guy]

Originally Posted by Grootman

Found an alternative solution as well. Hooked up the dashcam to the USB type C port which turns off. The dashcam then runs on its internal battery

Oh that's nice that USB port in your car is compatible and free to be used with dashcam. Also, dashcam gets switched off few seconds after the car is switched off so there is not much of a footage the cam can record. Is it different in the cam you have?

[JediKnight]

Originally Posted by Grootman

What i want to check with the good folks at Team-BHP is this - Can a dashcam, running on a 12v socket (which is permanently on in a Kodiaq) drain a car's battery over a period of 10 days?

Yes it can. Car battery store very little energy. It is designed to give short bursts of high power.

Also let me tell you another little secret of car batteries. Car batteries are not designed for deep discharge. If the battery discharges to zero it causes internal structural damage to the battery and it never truly recovers. This will not show up in the so called battery tests. The voltage will come up but battery capacity gets diminished. I always change my battery if it ever drains to an empty state.

[LazyBoy2000]

Originally Posted by phi

I am approaching 5K now and I am planning first oil change at 7.5K. Talked to service center, they said they can do it as running repair so that the next one can be done at first service under SMP.

Based on my current usage, I will mostly hit 15K just before the 1-year mark, so this makes sense. I also have enthusiast friends who go with 10k interval and have been happy with that.

Sadly anyone I talk to at Brite Skoda tell me that there is no need to get the oil changed before 15K. Even if I insist to pay for it. Not sure what should I do in this case.

[phi]

Originally Posted by LazyBoy2000

Sadly anyone I talk to at Brite Skoda tell me that there is no need to get the oil changed before 15K. Even if I insist to pay for it. Not sure what should I do in this case.

That's a pity. Cant you try other service centers? I assume you must have quite a few in NCR.

[CarsAndDrives]

Have a question on the infotainment screen for the kodiak. The current one offered is just 8 inches and looked tad bit small. Is the size work fine or is there an option to upgrade available on this infotainment screen?