[sids1811]

Originally Posted by Aaron:)

Thank you for sharing your experience and congratulations on achieving the milestone!

How is the car holding up after 1 lakh kilometres? Any reliability concerns, rattles/squeaks or niggling issues that you’ve faced?

The car is holding good, is nearing 110k now, minor squeaks do appear now and then but they are properly taken care by the brilliant A.S.S team here. They all know the car by number, all services take full 2 days and car always comes as good as it can be for the number of KM it has clogged. My advice for taking such high running is periodic service at every 14-15k.

Originally Posted by narayans80

How are the Bridgestone 18 inches? How much are they?

Even in the Prestige 17 inches, only JKs and Apollo Alnacs are 5200 and 7500 respectively. Rest start from Apollo Apterras at 9700 apiece.

I guess this is common across the board. Not much choice here.

The Bridgestones are nearly 13k a pop which unconditional warranty which thankfully I never had to use yet.

Originally Posted by Stribog

Out of curiosity, I assumed 25 days of driving a month and it works out to a daily usage of 190 kms / day.

What kind of usage do you actually hit? 1l in 21 months is a very very high running

Office / Factory is 20km one way, kids school is 14, it is used as a car pool for morning drop to school, so average 54 km is always there. Delhi is a 1000 km trip, we generally do it twice a month for commercial reasons, Jaipur and nearby is around 1300, it is once a month.

Throw in 6 or 7 stints to airport 70 km away and you will arrive at the number or near to it.

It is the only diesel in a big family and de facto highway choice for now till the purse allows something bigger and better

[narayans80]

Originally Posted by sids1811

The Bridgestones are nearly 13k a pop which unconditional warranty which thankfully I never had to use yet

Which model in Bridgestone is this? I remember looking about unconditional warranties sometime back. Only JK has across the models. Bridgestone had them only in 1-2 models, which were all hatchback tyres. So am curious to know

Besides at 13K, this looks more than Michelin P4STs which are usually the most expensive among the lot, alongside Pirellis. I thought Bridgestones are locally made, cost seems to be on par with imported tyres.

Office / Factory is 20km one way, kids school is 14, it is used as a car pool for morning drop to school, so average 54 km is always there. Delhi is a 1000 km trip, we generally do it twice a month for commercial reasons, Jaipur and nearby is around 1300, it is once a month.

Nice usage! A diesel car like it should be used

[RS77]

Originally Posted by Cyborg

Not shifting to N while at traffic stops (in an automatic car) is very normal for a person just converting from a manual transmission.

Keeping the transmission in D with the brake engaged puts an unnecessary strain on all drivetrain components which should be generally avoided while negatively impacting fuel efficiency as well. Imagine the car wants to move forward in D while the brake keeps it in place, negative effect on all parameters. Nothing will happen in the short term but over time it’s best avoided.

Since you have converted (to an automatic) it would be the most practical and sensible thing to relearn and form the correct habit from the start. Make a conscious effort to do this initially and it will become second nature in no time.

Cheers

I follow this practice and not sure if this is the golden rule!

I have a DCT Petrol 1.5L T Alcazar.
Other team-bhp members, do share if you have a more better approach that could serve well for DCT vehicles.

• - If I am climbing hills only then I prefer using autohold. I keep ISG=ON if light traffic during the climb and ISG=OFF in case of heavy traffic during the climb. I didn't consider moving from 'D' to 'N' for hill climb mode.
  
• - For regular city rides with light traffic:
  I keep ISG ON and if the signal is short duration (say < 60s): I keep it in 'D' as ISG switches off the engine depending on outside T and inside AC cooling it is mostly fine even if the engine gets restarted by ISG while still in 'D'.
  If the signal is longer duration ( say 90s and above, I keep it in 'D' mode until ISG is kept the engine off. If engine is turned on and still in RED, I move from 'D' to 'N' and the ISG kicks in again to turn off the engine.
  
• - For bumper-to-bumper traffic:
  I turn ISG OFF as I feel repeated turn-on and off of Engine is detrimental on the Battery even if it is an AGM type. In this sort of traffic, I always apply the brake and shift to 'N' mode. I use the parking brakes to avoid keeping the brake pedal depressed. When I wish to move forward I move the stick from 'N' to 'D' the parking brake automatically disengages and repeat the process to avoid using ISG and keeping the vehicle in 'D' mode.

I am not sure if this is the best way to use a DCT and keep the drive system healthy for long years to come.

[bibhudutta.pani]

Originally Posted by RS77

I follow this practice and not sure if this is the golden rule!

[*]- If I am climbing hills only then I prefer using autohold. I keep ISG=ON if light traffic during the climb and ISG=OFF in case of heavy traffic during the climb. I didn't consider moving from 'D' to 'N' for hill climb mode.


.

Thanks - I have using 2.0 Petrol Auto for close to 2 years now but I am not sure I use the Parking button correctly. Would you use it each time that you park it long-time i.e. upon reaching the destination.
Sorry I did not quite get how do you turn ISG ON or OFF; which lever/button are you referring to?

[RS77]

Originally Posted by bibhudutta.pani

Thanks - I have using 2.0 Petrol Auto for close to 2 years now but I am not sure I use the Parking button correctly. Would you use it each time that you park it long-time i.e. upon reaching the destination.
Sorry I did not quite get how do you turn ISG ON or OFF; which lever/button are you referring to?

In Alcazar, there is a button marked with 'A' within circular arrow icon near to Start-stop.button. The orange light indicates ISG off. Use the parking brake when you put in "P" mode. At other times you may use auto hold however in this mode car engine won't immediately start as system first detects a minute acceleration pedal press and then reacts to amount of pressure and this in conjunction with ISG turning off the engine makes it less responsive if you want to move fast.

I prefer using auto hold only for hill climbing and in this mode good to keep moving your gear stick to "N" mode whenever you brake and come to idle stop.

[Naetik30]

Hi folks. My Alcazar completed 2 years and 44000kms last month.

Was never happy with the Apollo Apterra tyres the car came with. Had multiple punctures on the car and always felt like the pressure fell a few points within 2 weeks everytime. This was never the case with my old Verna. I never had to use the spare wheel on my Verna over 8 years. And had a total of 2 punctures for 125,000 kms.

This week, I returned from an international 2 week holiday and found my car had 2 punctures. One of them was a bad one and needed a patch. So decided to bite the bullet and switched to Continental UC6 215/55R18 tyres from Madhus.

Also had an option of upgrading to 235/55R18 from a different tyre seller. But decided to stick the normal size. I had used Continentals on my verna as well. So hoping for a good experience.

[dave7377]

Hello Everyone,
I am having Alcazar Prestige 2.0 -Petrol purchased in July'2022 and having done 37000 kms till now with predominant highway runs to hills of Uttarakhand.

On Saturday (25/5) while i was driving from Surat to Indore, having left Surat at 1030 hrs, around 16 kms before Halol (around 1400 hrs), car suddenly lost power and came to abrupt halt.

I managed to steer the car to road shoulder, tried to start, engine started , shuddered and within 10 seconds, engine stopped. There was no change in RPM while pressing the accelerator pedal also. Engine shuddered as if it wasn't getting fuel.

Car had not given any trouble throughout my two years of ownership and multiple highway runs.

Temperature was normal, coolant was proper, petrol was filled from regular filling station and car had travelled 180 kms from Surat with no issues. I drove on Bharuch Vadodara NE04 stretch @110-115 kmph and rest was within 80-90kms throughout.

Opened the bonnet, fuse plugs were all ok and everything looked normal, tightened the connectors to engine and then again started and this time it started with no shuddering and RPM needle was working while pressing accelerator pedal.

After waiting for around 10 minutes, started driving slowly to President Hyundai at Halo which was 15-16 kms away. They checked the car, thoroughly even took test drive but couldn't find anything.

Finally after spending an hour there, left for Indore. Car worked fine throughout the entire journey to Indore and return the next day.

Anyone having an idea, what it could be. I have few more highway runs coming up and a trip to Zanskar this season. Anything particular i should tell ASS to check?

[Ays7]

Hyundai ASC is selling Dashcam HMEB-300E which can be powered from 12V socket, It comes with front and rear. Has anyone used it? Is it worth its price of 11K.

I need one for my Alcazar. The Service centre recommends this from
Warranty point of view. However I cannot see any feedback about it anywhere. Has anyone used it? Any pros and cons? Any inputs are welcome.

Thanks

[RS77]

I have observed a wierd issue in my Alcazar door lock in the passenger side doo lock handle. ( The front door adjacent to driver side)


The door won't open by pulling the handle on the outside when unlocked by keyless entry switch or via remote or via the unlock button press on driver side door controls. This doesn't happen at all times but quite often. If you unlock again with a 2nd unlock key press on Remote then it would open with the door handle outside m opening from inside is no problem at all atleast all times.

My car is 2024 manufactured and from Chennai factory. I read some USA posts about such an issue in Tucson in 2016 to 2020. Some posts also said Hyundai USA advised replacing the entire door lock assembly via their distributor as it was found as manufacturing defect.

Any Alcazar owners who faced this issue, do share how did you get this resolved. The tricky thing is it happens randomly but frequently.

[callmeneo]

I had been to a couple of tyre shops in Baner,Pune to check out some new shoes for the Dark Knight.Here are the prices and models i got.

Tyre Terminal:

215/55 R18
Bridgestone Turanza 6i - New model which has very less road noise -12900


225/55 R18
Bridgestone Turanza -13500
Yokohama Blue Earth -13900


Atharv Tyres:

225/55 R18
Yokohama Blue Earth -13500


People in Pune can try to group in and ask for a better price.

[Swaroop]

I am zeroing on Alcazar Diesel Automatic 7STR Adventure Edition after considering Hector plus sharp pro and XUV700 AX5 simply because of best all round package it is providing.
I hear facelift of Alcazar is just round the corner. Can you suggest if it is worth waiting for facelift or buy the existing model as I am getting discounts upto 1L? The new model might be pricier than the current ones. Does the cost difference of nearly 2L justify the facelift as the current ones are completely loaded with features?

[dew]

Originally Posted by dave7377

Anyone having an idea, what it could be. I have few more highway runs coming up and a trip to Zanskar this season. Anything particular i should tell ASS to check?

Get fuel filter checked, it's most probably that.

[Aviator_guy]

Originally Posted by Swaroop

I am zeroing on Alcazar Diesel Automatic 7STR Adventure Edition after considering Hector plus sharp pro and XUV700 AX5 simply because of best all round package it is providing.
I hear facelift of Alcazar is just round the corner. Can you suggest if it is worth waiting for facelift or buy the existing model as I am getting discounts upto 1L? The new model might be pricier than the current ones. Does the cost difference of nearly 2L justify the facelift as the current ones are completely loaded with features?

It is true that facelift is around the corner. Like Creta facelift, it might come with ADAS, some cosmetic changes and more features to get the sales number back on track.

My perosonal opinion: If you are spending such a big amount already then might as well look for facelift even if it means 4-5% price hike, which won't matter much over long term ownership. But you'll have the peace of mind of owning latest avatar.

However, if you don't care about new facelift, are in a hurry to buy or under strict budget then you can consider current version for quicker delivery. Negotiate harder as Alcazar is not selling in large number and there is not much waiting list either.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

The Left Rear Damper of our Hyundai Alcazar 6Seater Diesel Manual Transmission bought on 30-07-2021 is Leaking Oil.

I am confused between the following Rear Dampers as to which one to go for-


Alcazar 'Production Date- 06-02-2020 to 02-02-2021' Shock Absorber Assy Rear MRP Rs. 1731/-

Alcazar 'Production Date- 13-03-2021 till now' Shock Absorber Assy Rear MRP Rs. 3100/-

Is it that the second one is imported and hence costly or is it locally built but sturdier than 1st one and hence cost more.

Boodmo states 1st one for Alcazar 1st Gen and Creta 2nd Gen, 2nd one for Wagon, Long 5 Door, 6P (I guess P for passengers).

Is it necessary to replace the Right Damper too (Right one is not leaking Oil. It's Dry on outside)? The Odometer reads 94,971 kms.

I have read the debate over "Replacement of Shock Absorbers in Pair or Single" in another thread but still not could not decide.

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I have read the debate over "Replacement of Shock Absorbers in Pair or Single" in another thread but still not could not decide.

Yes it is advised to replace the pair. With usage both would have worn out and sagged. When you replace one of the them, the older piece becomes the weakling in the setup and would impact the ride (and would be prone to failure as well).