[AnkitShroff]

Hi. I wanted to check if tyre pressure sensor (TPMS) is considered under vehicle manufacturer warranty (standard plus EW taken) or does it have the same warranty as the tyres (that the tyre OEM provides to the vehicle OEM).

A cousin of mine is facing an issue where the TPMS system in her 2022 MY i20 has malfunctioned (shows an error on the dashboard infotainment) and Hyundai is mentioning that Tyre pressure sensor is a component in the tyre and hence will have the same warranty as the tyres.

My understanding was the opposite of it since we get the vehicle manufacturer warranty in something like ABS sensors as well. Thanks in advance.

[SixPistons]

Originally Posted by AnkitShroff

Hi. I wanted to check if tyre pressure sensor (TPMS) is considered under vehicle manufacturer warranty (standard plus EW taken) or does it have the same warranty as the tyres (that the tyre OEM provides to the vehicle OEM).

A cousin of mine is facing an issue where the TPMS system in her 2022 MY i20 has malfunctioned (shows an error on the dashboard infotainment) and Hyundai is mentioning that Tyre pressure sensor is a component in the tyre and hence will have the same warranty as the tyres.

My understanding was the opposite of it since we get the vehicle manufacturer warranty in something like ABS sensors as well. Thanks in advance.

That doesn’t sound right. The way I understand it, tyre pressure monitor/sensor is a component of the wheel and not directly the tyre itself. It is not connected to the tyre manufacturer in any way and is a Hyundai provided equipment.

Whether it is covered in warranty or not is a separate matter. Although it should be covered by standard 3 year warranty. Check the vehicle’s accompanying user manual/warranty booklet for more detail. Do not rely solely on service center However reasoning given is downright *#%$.

[motor_breathing]

Is it possible to fix a garb handle above the driver side door. There is a recess there with the exact shape to accommodate a folding grab handle. Any inputs regarding this would be very helpful.

[DRIVE_ADDICT]

Folks, Im looking around to get a used i20 either 1.2 iVT or 1.0 Turbo DCT, replacing my second car and this will be used primarily by wife,

I see sparingly used <20k driven iVTs sportz 22 model, around 8.5L.
Did a TD, find the car to be slightly dull compared to previous gen i20 CVTs, confirmed the same by TD the showroom demo car as well. Is this right?

Saw service history for one such car and found entries for Fuel Injector cleaning, Throttle body cleaning as part of routine service (mentioned in both 2nd and 3rd free service) Is this something normal?

The Turbo DCTs are going at a slightly higher price ~9L, I heard even 1.2 NA iVT also not so good in FE so thought why not go for 1.0 turbo, at least we get some fun and good FE in highways.

Your thoughts and advice please.

[bijims]

Originally Posted by DRIVE_ADDICT

Folks, Im looking around to get a used i20 either 1.2 iVT or 1.0 Turbo DCT, replacing my second car and this will be used primarily by wife,

I see sparingly used <20k driven iVTs sportz 22 model, around 8.5L.
Did a TD, find the car to be slightly dull compared to previous gen i20 CVTs, confirmed the same by TD the showroom demo car as well. Is this right?

Saw service history for one such car and found entries for Fuel Injector cleaning, Throttle body cleaning as part of routine service (mentioned in both 2nd and 3rd free service) Is this something normal?

The Turbo DCTs are going at a slightly higher price ~9L, I heard even 1.2 NA iVT also not so good in FE so thought why not go for 1.0 turbo, at least we get some fun and good FE in highways.

Your thoughts and advice please.

The 1.2 iVT is known for its smooth and refined performance, but it might lack the punch that some drivers expect, especially on highways.

Seeing entries for fuel injector cleaning and throttle body cleaning as part of routine service is not unusual. These services are often recommended to maintain optimal engine performance and fuel efficiency, especially if the car has been driven in conditions that might lead to carbon buildup.

While the fuel efficiency of the i20 IVT is decent, it ain't the best in class, On the other hand, the 1.0 Turbo DCT offers a more spirited driving experience and slightly better fuel efficiency on highways.

The ARAI fuel efficiency of both IVT and the DCT are very close and almost similar, so given that the Turbo DCTs are only slightly more expensive and offer a more engaging drive along with better highway fuel efficiency, they might be a better choice if you're looking for a bit more fun and performance.

[abhi7013]

Looking to replace our 20year old Santro and this is the next logical upgrade for us. However lack of features like a 360 degree camera, ventilated seats or those with electric adjust is something that's holding me back. It's about time Hyundai updates this hatchback considering the popularity of it. Do we have any hints of a facelift this year? I could maybe hold back my purchase untill then.

[bijims]

Originally Posted by abhi7013

Looking to replace our 20year old Santro and this is the next logical upgrade for us. However lack of features like a 360 degree camera, ventilated seats or those with electric adjust is something that's holding me back. It's about time Hyundai updates this hatchback considering the popularity of it. Do we have any hints of a facelift this year? I could maybe hold back my purchase untill then.

There is no news of any update this year, considering most of the premium hatchbacks i.e. Glanza/Baleno, Altroz, i20 haven't had substantial updates for over a couple of years now, it seems that you are better off looking at other options, preferably in the SUV space as that is the hot market right now, however if you are interested, the Altroz is getting an update this year and should bring in a few features.

[Sri0030]

Hi all, My i20 2024 model is having a strange issue, where I can hear a loud metal clunking noise from the suspension while going over road expansion joints and potholes. The current odometer reading stands at 9k kms. Recently I've visited Hyundai workshop to diagnose the issue. Sad part is that I'm not able to reproduce the sound at the workshop. They are saying that everything is fine. What should I do now? Is anyone aware of this issue in the all new i20?

[Striker]

Originally Posted by Sri0030

Hi all, My i20 2024 model is having a strange issue, where I can hear a loud metal clunking noise from the suspension while going over road expansion joints and potholes. The current odometer reading stands at 9k kms. Recently I've visited Hyundai workshop to diagnose the issue. Sad part is that I'm not able to reproduce the sound at the workshop. They are saying that everything is fine. What should I do now? Is anyone aware of this issue in the all new i20?

Have you checked if the spare wheel and the tool kit are tightly secured?
Please also check if the clunking noise is arising from the tailgate (boot) lock? There have been few cases reported in this new gen i20 where the boot lock mechanism required alignment tweaks or complete replacement (in my case) to fix this issue.

For starters, try wrapping the lock mechanism with tape to make it a tight close and check if the metal clanking noise reduces.

[Sri0030]

Originally Posted by Striker

Have you checked if the spare wheel and the tool kit are tightly secured?
Please also check if the clunking noise is arising from the tailgate (boot) lock? There have been few cases reported in this new gen i20 where the boot lock mechanism required alignment tweaks or complete replacement (in my case) to fix this issue.

For starters, try wrapping the lock mechanism with tape to make it a tight close and check if the metal clanking noise reduces.

Yes I checked. Everything seems fine. The noise is mostly related to the front suspension.

[KadiNiSikhiya]

Originally Posted by Sri0030

Yes I checked. Everything seems fine. The noise is mostly related to the front suspension.

Used to happen a lot with mine too, till I learned to be more mindful about it. In my case, it was the front left side. Currently working with a stiffer suspension setup and softer tires (Turanza 6I) and so far it's been working "bang-free."

[Striker]

First major mechanical issue encountered on my i20 few weeks back. Mine is a 2020 Dec manufactured i20 1.0 TGDI Asta (O) DCT.

Its run little short of 28k kms and for the past few weeks there was an unusual (above-normal) vibration felt strongly inside the cabin. More pronounced on the steering wheel, especially at lower speeds where there is maximum pull (speeds between 0-40 kmph).

Visit 1 to ASC - Quick inspection done and brushed it off as normal behavior, common TGDI + 3 cylinder attributes as confirmed by the service advisor. Despite explaining that this wasn't the behavior until a few weeks back, the only resolution offered was that they have retorqued few joints in the underbody and asked me to observe for few days under normal driving conditions.

My friend was on a lookout to buy a second car for his garage and was interested in i20. Accompanied him for a test drive and immediately noticed the difference, there was nil vibration and smooth pulling from the engine without any harshness creeping through the cabin.

Visit 2 to ASC - This time escalated the matter to service center manager, explaining the issue from scratch. He assured a thorough diagnosis will be done and asked me to leave the car behind. Received a call the next day from the floor in-charge, mentioning that the engine bed mounts have cracked and hence the engine vibrations couldn't be absorbed the mounts (as it should be). Replacement parts ordered and it took about 5 days for them to arrive as these were not readily available in stock.

Once the parts arrived and bed mounts changed, I was called in for another test drive. This time, vibrations were much less than earlier but could still feel that the engine was a bit loud with some vibrations still creeping in to the cabin. There was also a bit of mis-firing and power loss felt at very low speeds. The floor in-charge who was sitting beside me during the test drive acknowledged the same and mentioned he suspects dirty fuel injectors and worn spark plugs, immediately took the car to another workshop which had the machinery to clean the injectors and spark plugs.

This time, after the bed mounts replaced and injector/spark plugs cleaned, there was no vibrations felt and the drive was completely smooth and effortless, just like a new car out of the showroom.

What is surprising to me is that the car is only done 27k kms, the engine bed mounts had to be replaced and the injectors had to be cleaned to remove excessive carbon build up I suppose.

[saket77]

Ran into a strange issue last night. I refueled my wife's i20 from a fuel station which is not among the ones which we generally visit. So, I asked the attendant to fill only for Rs. 500.

After refueling, I started to drive and just then I noticed that the fuel gauge has not moved at all and the Distance to Empty is still the same. The i20 has a digital gauge and both before and after refueling, there were 3 bars with DTE displayed as 135 kms. Smelling foul play, I reversed into the slot and asked the attended if all is ok with the nozzle. She insisted everything is fine. Then I called the manager and ask for a quantity test from the same nozzle. They performed a 5 ltr quantity test in front of me and the dispensed quantity was satisfactory. Had to leave as I couldn't be sure if there was a foul play.

I drove 5 kms to home thereafter. Tried turning off and on the ignition a few times but the gauge was same. Just before finally locking the car in the parking, I tried one last time and the gauge went up by one bar but the DTE still remained the same.

This morning, I again started the car and there was one more bar this time. So the bars increased from 3 to 5 but the DTE remained the same. After driving for about 10 kms, I saw that the gauge remained at 5 bars and the DTE slowly increasing to 146 (from 135).

This has got me baffled. How come the car is reacting so late to a refill? Don't have any logical explanation to this except a faulty gauge in 1.5 year old car.

Anyone with the new i20 experienced something similar?

[R32Mau]

Originally Posted by Striker

What is surprising to me is that the car is only done 27k kms, the engine bed mounts had to be replaced and the injectors had to be cleaned to remove excessive carbon build up I suppose.

This could be more due to the age of the car and even the climate rather than the driven kilometres, atleast in the case of the cracked engine mounts. And carbon can build up quickly if driven a lot at low rpms or when the car is driven mostly for short trips. But there are exceptions ofcourse.

[SixPistons]

Originally Posted by saket77

Ran into a strange issue last night. I refueled my wife's i20 from a fuel station which is not among the ones which we generally visit. So, I asked the attendant to fill only for Rs. 500.

After refueling, I started to drive and just then I noticed that the fuel gauge has not moved at all and the Distance to Empty is still the same. The i20 has a digital gauge and both before and after refueling, there were 3 bars with DTE displayed as 135 kms. Smelling foul play, I reversed into the slot and asked the attended if all is ok with the nozzle. She insisted everything is fine. Then I called the manager and ask for a quantity test from the same nozzle. They performed a 5 ltr quantity test in front of me and the dispensed quantity was satisfactory. Had to leave as I couldn't be sure if there was a foul play.

I drove 5 kms to home thereafter. Tried turning off and on the ignition a few times but the gauge was same. Just before finally locking the car in the parking, I tried one last time and the gauge went up by one bar but the DTE still remained the same.

This morning, I again started the car and there was one more bar this time. So the bars increased from 3 to 5 but the DTE remained the same. After driving for about 10 kms, I saw that the gauge remained at 5 bars and the DTE slowly increasing to 146 (from 135).

This has got me baffled. How come the car is reacting so late to a refill? Don't have any logical explanation to this except a faulty gauge in 1.5 year old car.

Anyone with the new i20 experienced something similar?

This is normal on smaller additions. Same with my NLine. I haven’t seen it move below additions of 10 Litres across multiple instances.

The first time it happened I took it to the service center. They disconnected the battery and reconnected after a while, and the system got it right.

Service Center didn’t know this is standard. I only realised this is common after it happened a number of times.