[Exhaust_Note]

Thank you for your information , I have purchased the New i20 2021 (Apr) 1.2 Sportz MT from Spinny.

The process was smooth and positive as has been with Spinny earlier too. There is one niggle which I am not able to figure out the solution for.

When the car goes over large rumble strips or broken roads, there is a clunking sound from the driver side front wheel. The noise goes away when the brakes are touched (even very lightly). I got it checked at a FNG (Hyderabad) and he found that there was silicon tape wound around the right Brake Caliper Pin and said probably the caliper slot has widened and a new pin would not help much. He re-wound the fresh tape and the sound went away, only to come back after a few 100 KMs.

I also noticed that there was no grease and the FNG user normal grease (not brake grease)

Now I am not sure if I should go to KUN Hyundai service which had a bad name or another FNG recommended by friends. And should I try to replace the pin first or the caliper altogether?

On a side note, I grazed the left side while driving in Goa (wide car, driver error) and got that re-painted at the FNG. The next day while returning from Secundrabad station, a biker was looking backwards and riding and completely missed a right curve on the road and hit the left rear door, denting and scratching it (AGAIN!). I am leaving it at that for now

Regards,
Saurab Chatterjee

[N4Nikunj]

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Update: HASS replaced the fuel pump today, going to test drive the car for a few weeks to see if this was the only problem.

Dear Nonstop-driver,

The connection to the battery must be the issue as well. I have a Grand i10 ASTA 1.2P 2015 model. One day the car simply died on the slope while reversing into the parking. I tried to crank but it didn't let me.

I got the car jump started and checked the connections to the battery. Got it tightened and the car started fine with a single crank. I used some copper wire extracted from an electrical wire with the battery connection to make it a more snug fit.

I hope this helps..

[boniver]

Originally Posted by N4Nikunj

Dear Nonstop-driver,

The connection to the battery must be the issue as well. I have a Grand i10 ASTA 1.2P 2015 model. One day the car simply died on the slope while reversing into the parking. I tried to crank but it didn't let me.

I got the car jump started and checked the connections to the battery. Got it tightened and the car started fine with a single crank. I used some copper wire extracted from an electrical wire with the battery connection to make it a more snug fit.

I hope this helps..

Agree with this. I had faced this both with my Santro and my Ritz. The cars used to randomly turn off and turn back on when I tried after a while. The battery terminals were loose in both cases and once tightened, this issue never came back.

[TorqueKnight]

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Update: HASS replaced the fuel pump today, going to test drive the car for a few weeks to see if this was the only problem.

There may be more than one reason. Apart from fuel pump, the car battery also seems to exhibit the problem. As you mentioned earlier, the battery got drained and the mechanic was unable to check the error. Also it needed a jump start.

Did you check the battery health? Did you change the battery? You can easily get the battery health status report from the service centre or from any battery seller. Kindly check your battery also.

Hope the issue gets resolved soon.

[jin]

My 1 year old i20 is towed to service center using RSA due to clutch failure and it is been there for more than 20 days now. They gave the initial observation as rat bite and from there on they have been taking their sweet time in each and every step and it is a horrendous experience so far. They took a week for initial diagnostics and to list the parts that needed to be changed(sc hose, fan hose assy, insulation and few other wires). I have been to their workshop twice in this time period and i was told they were still checking it. After involving their service head I got added in two WhatsApp groups(with Service advisor and body shop person) to update the progress, those were pretty useless.

Although TATA AIG had listed the dealership as a place that can do cashless repairs, SA claimed they don't have tie up with this insurance and I may have to pay out of hand. After argument they have reached out to someone and confirmed that insurance can be claimed. After filing paperwork, Surveyor took 4 days to come and inspect the vehicle and approved the claim by next day. They claimed that they have ordered the parts from factory since it was not available with them. Got an update after a week from body shop guy that the parts have been shipped from factory and will reach the workshop in 5 days. Latest update is they have received the parts and they have started the work and will need at least 3 days to complete the wiring work alone since it requires disassembly of dashboard and whole front portion.

Is this the normal experience across all Hyundai dealers? If anyone else has done similar repairs, please share your experience and timeline. Also current repair status is not showing in Hyundai app, it shows "You don't have any scheduled service to track".

[saket77]

Originally Posted by jin

My 1 year old i20 is towed to service center using RSA due to clutch failure and it is been there for more than 20 days now. They gave the initial observation as rat bite----.

Clutch failure due to rat bite is new to me.

Instead what comes to my mind is the common failure of clutch master cylinder in i20.

[jin]

Originally Posted by saket77

Clutch failure due to rat bite is new to me.

Instead what comes to my mind is the common failure of clutch master cylinder in i20.

It seems Rat chewed hoses along wiring, also vehicle instrument showed low braking oil(third service was done on April).

[Revvatron]

Previously I had posted about TPMS displaying incorrect details. Have seen others mention it as well. I ran into same issue second time in my ownership.
Here's my observation about both times.

• Incident 1 : Got my tyres filled with normal air on roadside puncture shop. As per their meter it was 34 but when I started driving TPMS started displaying it as 39 psi. Immediately got it checked at the next puncture shop but their reading again said 34-35. So I thought it is just TPMS malfunction. Drove around for a week like that and next time got Nitrogen air and all was back to normal

• Incident 2 : Last month again got my tyres filled with normal air at roadside puncture shop as Petrol pump stall was occupied with lot of cars for Nitrogen air. The pressure was set to 35 in front and 33 at back. Once I started driving pressure was displayed as 40 and 37 respectively. Got it checked again at roadside shop, same thing with their meters and it displayed 35 and 33. Again I thought it must be TPMS malfunction and kept driving around thinking it will resolve itself like last time. Although I did feel the ride was different.

Yesterday I went to get Nitrogen Air at pump, and it displayed the exact reading that TPMS was showing. Front were 40 and back were 38. So got it adjusted and it was back to normal. So my question here is do the roadside shops use different reading other than psi while putting the air? Or is it just that TPMS in I20 works fine only for Nitrogen(I know this sounds absurd)

[rohan123]

I updated my i20 Asta (O) 2024 system (12 inch screen) to the latest firmware using the USB installer. As soon as you insert the usb, it will ask you whether you want to update now.

The whole process took 37 mins. It says update will continue even if you turn off the car. Didn’t want to take the risk, luckily got some traffic today. Update completed as I entered my office gate. The progress bar completed 30% in 20 mins, then sped up in the remaining 70%.

Initial thoughts are only the Radio UI has changed. Have not had the time to check other things.

Uploading photos for reference. Kindly ignore the fingerprints.

[rohan123]

Today I filled up my i20 till auto cut, but the fuel meter only showed that it is 3/4th full. I checked my previous refuelling was also similar litres of petrol, so the correct amount of petrol has gone in.

I drove another 3kms to my office. In this time, my odometer increased by 3kms and distance to empty also increased by 3kms. I was driving in traffic, so there was no way that should have increased. Also, the Distance to Empty displayed was correct for 3/4th tank full.

What could be the problem here? Anyone faced similar issues?

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by N4Nikunj

The connection to the battery must be the issue as well.

Originally Posted by boniver

The battery terminals were loose in both cases and once tightened, this issue never came back.

Originally Posted by TorqueKnight

Did you check the battery health? Did you change the battery?

Thanks guys. The dealership checked the battery health and said everything was fine. Have had no issues since fuel pump replacement so looks like that was the only issue

[TorqueKnight]

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Thanks guys. The dealership checked the battery health and said everything was fine. Have had no issues since fuel pump replacement so looks like that was the only issue

Good to know. Enjoy the ride again

[007maverick]

Originally Posted by Revvatron

Previously I had posted about TPMS displaying incorrect details. Have seen others mention it as well. I ran into same issue second time in my ownership.

I would suggest to stick with Nitrogen for the reasons (1) it keeps your tyres cool enhancing tyres and brake liner life (2) frequency of filling goes down (3) mostly you will end up filling it in a better organized setups as compared to std air.

To overcome the issues that you have mentioned, try to fill nitrogen upto 34 psi preferably in the evening hours when Ambient temp is lower. Drive the car for few Km and moniter TPMS. TPMS should most likely will show 31/32. It's a good practice to monitor TPMS atleast once in a day. Most likely you need not have to fill the Nitrogen for couple of months if your tyres are in good condition.

[Revvatron]

Originally Posted by 007maverick

To overcome the issues that you have mentioned, try to fill nitrogen upto 34 psi preferably in the evening hours when Ambient temp is lower. Drive the car for few Km and moniter TPMS. TPMS should most likely will show 31/32. It's a good practice to monitor TPMS atleast once in a day. Most likely you need not have to fill the Nitrogen for couple of months if your tyres are in good condition.

I practise this except I get it filled in early hours and works just like you mentioned. Usually I always prefer nitrogen but had to opt for non nitrogen due to extreme edge case scenario were the pump was closed. Also wondering whether this will happen if we use tyre inflator like Tusa or Michellin?

[007maverick]

Originally Posted by Revvatron

I practise this except I get it filled in early hours and works just like you mentioned. Usually I always prefer nitrogen but had to opt for non nitrogen due to extreme edge case scenario were the pump was closed. Also wondering whether this will happen if we use tyre inflator like Tusa or Michellin?

yeah, early morning hours are equally good for tyre pressure check and filling them as needed. Preferably don't switch between air and nitrogen, else it will defeat the purpose and everytime you will have to fully discharge the air before filling nitrogen.

I don't have an experience of Tyre inflators but it should be handy as part of DIY kit.