[ashis89]

Originally Posted by SIDDHARTH2111

So, I was in the market to get my Stock Halogens replaced with LED Headlights,

LEDs are not designed for halogen reflector setups and will cause a lot of glare for incoming traffic along with poor beam pattern. A very worthwhile upgrade would be 100/90 Philips Rally halogen bulbs with a good quality relay kit. At a fraction of your budget, they bring a big difference in lighting.

[SIDDHARTH2111]

Originally Posted by ashis89

LEDs are not designed for halogen reflector setups and will cause a lot of glare for incoming traffic along with poor beam pattern. A very worthwhile upgrade would be 100/90 Philips Rally halogen bulbs with a good quality relay kit. At a fraction of your budget, they bring a big difference in lighting.

Thank you for the quick reply and for sharing the insights, my question is , if I use 100/90 Bulbs, will they pose a threat to the Headlight casing, that it might melt?

Below is the link, albeit its a H4, I can't find H19 anywhere.

https://www.amazon.in/Philips-Rally-.../dp/B0758DSQW7

additionally, I was now scrolling through the Philips Page, and found the following headlight with same 55W wattage and higher output.

1. X-Treme Vision G-Force - 12342XVGB1 - 12V/55W
https://www.philips.co.in/c-p/12342X...eadlight-bulb2

Will this be a good buy? I am not sure if this can be compatible with H19 Sockets that I have.


I have the following current stock lamps installed.
https://www.philips.ae/c-p/12644LLC1...headlight-bulb

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by SIDDHARTH2111

Thank you for the quick reply and for sharing the insights, my question is , if I use 100/90 Bulbs, will they pose a threat to the Headlight casing, that it might melt?

100/90 is safe and doesn't impact the reflectors. 130/100 W can burn the reflectors.

Below is the link, albeit its a H4, I can't find H19 anywhere.

https://www.amazon.in/Philips-Rally-.../dp/B0758DSQW7

H4 and H19 holders seem the same. I suggest you order one piece and see if it fits the holder and then order the relay kit + 2nd bulb. You can also buy one from any automotive store and try, as a generic H4 100/90 bulb costs a 100 bucks or less.

2 bulbs + relay kit + fitting charges would cost 1500-2000 rupees at max.

additionally, I was now scrolling through the Philips Page, and found the following headlight with same 55W wattage and higher output.

Per my experience, they are no match for a 100/90 (130/100) bulb. Give them a pass.

I have the following current stock lamps installed.
https://www.philips.ae/c-p/12644LLC1...headlight-bulb

If H4 doesn't fit then here are some H19 100/90 bulbs.

https://www.industrybuying.com/headl...iABEgITavD_BwE

https://www.industrybuying.com/headl...CABEgKhhPD_BwE

https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-h19_...bulb-58271061/

[sukarsan]

Originally Posted by SIDDHARTH2111

Below is the link, albeit its a H4, I can't find H19 anywhere.

This video

This video gives a clear explanation on the difference between H4 and H19.

There is a small filing to be done to created 2 notches to make H19 compatible with H4 holders. Does not seem to be a big deal. I have ordered this H4 bulb & this relay just now. Will update after the upgrade. My grandi10 headlight experience has been horrible so far and hope this upgrade helps.

[SIDDHARTH2111]

Originally Posted by sukarsan

This video This video gives a clear explanation on the difference between H4 and H19.

There is a small filing to be done to created 2 notches to make H19 compatible with H4 holders. Does not seem to be a big deal. I have ordered this H4 bulb & this relay just now. Will update after the upgrade. My grandi10 headlight experience has been horrible so far and hope this upgrade helps.

Many thanks Sukarsan, I was also looking at the same products, as suggested by Ashis89 as well, Will update too, after the upgrade! Many thanks Team!

[sukarsan]

Originally Posted by sukarsan

This video This video gives a clear explanation on the difference between H4 and H19.

There is a small filing to be done to created 2 notches to make H19 compatible with H4 holders. Does not seem to be a big deal. I have ordered this H4 bulb & this relay just now. Will update after the upgrade.

Got the parts last week and completed the fitment. To my surprise my Grand i10(MY2015) was already fitted with a H4 . There was no necessity of filing the new bulb to create the notches.

The fitment was done my by FNG. There was the additional necessity to make a hole on the circular plastic cover of the headlamp unit.

My high beam did not work when I checked in the evening. Got it sorted the next day. Issue seems to be loose connection, but nevertheless took lessons from the mechanic to lean how to troubleshoot in case of emergency.

Beam looks good. Visibility is improved. Hope to take it on a longer spin in the coming days to see the real impact.

[DrDK]

Originally Posted by swarnava.ch

Hi Loved reading your feedback SIDDHARTH2111.
I own the Nios Asta AMT 1.2 petrol 2020 model. Actually I can vouch for some of the issues you have faced and these are exactly my experiences as well

Hi Owner,

I am a new registered user and probably make some mistakes in sending a post. Please ignore this time. I think it will better late than never. The problems you have mentioned are common and helpful in other vehicle also.

I want to reply on some of your specific problems.

1. Fuel Gauge issue: Fuel gauge and its display scale is designed in such a way that it will not indicate few liters of consumption when the tank is sufficiently filled. And it make sense that when the tank is filled, you need not to worry after quite some time. Once the fuel level reaches a predefined (designed by company) value such that it required your attention to refill it within sufficient kilometers it will show you the accurate change in reduced fuel level.

Generally I have seen in many cars that when you consumed nearly 30-35% of tank full, needle/digital bars starts showing the decreasing level. Once you crossed the half fuel tank, the decrement will be more accurate. So technically it has a purpose and a limitation for the engineers. Purpose is to alert you about the accurate fuel level near the required to fill kilometers. Secondly, the limitation is that it will not be possible to fit the changing volume of 35 liters (for example) in a small curve/digital bars used in fuel display. Every car manufacturer has its own display design but the concept is same.

2. Fuel gauge shows: As per my knowledge, it is recommended to fill the fuel when the car's engine is off in order to avoid any static charge affecting the safety protocol of the fuel filling. While car engine is running, its alternator is continuously charging the battery. Body of every car is connected with -ve terminal. So it is highly likely that fuel filling nozzle can produce a spark while filling the fuel if it get positive charge from other objects nearby.

In order to motivate the drivers and bring into the practice of users, the electronics of fuel levelling system is designed in such a way that it will not collect the signal from fuel filler cap if the engine is running. In its memory it still has older data points of fuel level. But once you restart the engine, after 3-5 seconds of gap, the ECU of the engine collects fresh inputs form all the sensors and it shows the correct value of fuel. This is very prominent in Renault vehicles. If not in other vehicles too, than it should be a practice to keep the engine off and AC fan running if passengers inside need it.

If my explanation solves your problem than good, otherwise if you keep engine off during refuelling and the problem remains the same, surely there is problem in the fuel leveling system which needs to be check at service station.

3. Suspension: Tyre pressure plays an important role along with the tyre life. If tyres are too old (i.e hard) suspension will make noise. If tyre pressure is more than recommended ( e.g. 38-40 psi instead of 33 psi), surely your pothole experience and ribble speadbreaker experience will be bad, noisy and bumpy. With high tyre pressure, you have eliminated the cushioning property of tyre and all load going to suspension. It will damage the suspension also and slowly rattles the interior fittings. Please check once.

4. Vibration in Engine: Cold start is a real torture to the engine. Nearly 70-80 % of the total wear happened during the whole life of engine is due to cold start. Every engine takes time to warm up and lubricating fuel reaches the every required point. As per design, during cold start, rpm of engine are intentionally kept high to warm it quickly (please do not give throttle to even speed up more). It is well designed process for better engine life. Due to high rpm in cold start, if you quickly put your vehicle in drive mode (D-Mode), vehicle has to shift the automatic clutches to change gears at high rpm than it is supposed to shift.

Obviously, engine and gearbox will produce more vibration than usual (as per design) when we don't follow required process. Always give sufficient for warm up daily, especially in winters if you love your car, else its a machine for you. You can significantly increase engine life, fuel efficiency, its young age to old age vibration, auto clutch life if you warm up engine before you move. Think what happen to you if somebody pulls you from the bed when you are in deep sleep and ask you to run with luggage .

I hope, my explanations will help you.

[themonster]

Hello Everyone!

There are about 2-3 Grand i10 Nios' Sportz AMT among my friends circle. I wanted to share some of their experiences here (positives, negatives, and some solutions). I have personally driven 2 of them.

Things I like:
* The drivability of the car is good, it is a very good point-A to point-B car.
* Small footprint, perfect for city/urban use.
* The aqua teal paint, especially after a wash and wax.
* Hyundai's flexible warranty and extended warranty options.
* Good packaging. I was able to take 2 large suitcases in the boot with 3 passengers including myself for an airport run.

Things I do not like:
* Low back pain when driven over long distances, not just for me but also for my friends the owners who are the average built population (5 feet 6-8 inches and thin to medium built)
* The tin-can thin roof, which not only transmits all the sound into the cabin but also the heat.
* Service costs are on the higher side.

1. The 2020 model Grand 110 NIOS Sportz AMT- Aqua Teal Colour

- ODO: around 23500 kms
- Finished all 3 paid services and 2 paid services.
- Sparingly used, about 10kms a day; and there was a period it was hardly used 500kms a month.
- This car is almost always parked under the shade.
- The drive belt, i.e. the belt on the outside of the engine had to be changed around the 20,000kms mark, which was around 4 years of ownership.
- Since the car had projectors for the headlights and the foglights, the owner had upgraded the lights to LEDs. The throw has improved, and there is no glare to oncoming traffic.
- This car was running on Apollo Amazer tyres from the factory and they still have a lot of thread life left in them.
- This car mostly runs on the coastal Karnataka roads.
- The only 2 Complaints:

A. Gear selector issue. At times, after starting the car, the gear refuses to slot into 'D' or 'R'. The only solution is to turn off the car and wait for about 1-2 minutes and then start the car.
B. Early morning 'Jerk' while starting the car from a standstill, in both 'D'and 'R' modes.

2. The 2021 model Grand i10 NIOS Sportz AMT - Aqua Teal colour

- Almost identical car to the above, except the year of manufacturing. (mentioning this in particular cause this car had quite a bit of issues)
- I have driven quite a bit in this car over the last one year (~15,000 kms or so)
- Currently ODO is a little over 37,000 kms.
- Has completed the 3 free services and 2 paid services.
- The owner of this car also upgraded the headlights to LEDs.
- Car was running on Ceat tyres from factory. Its on its last legs now, maybe another 5,000 kms or so for them.
- This car is almost 80% parked under direct sunlight or under trees.
- The paint quality is sub par. As others have mentioned, there is bubbling of paint, and small paint chips have already begun rusting.
- Rattles from the dashboard and near the steering column. Some of these are more like thuds and metallic sounds. During the last service the dealership had changed the link rods and a steering clumn bush and lubrication (done free of cost under warranty). This initially helped the sounds, but they came back within 500kms. My friend does not have the time to regularly visit the ASC.
- Will check if the above resolve in the next service.
- The gearbox was super jerky. The jerk when starting the car in the mornings was very pronounced in this car. It was so bad, that one would need to accelerate for a bit to get the car moving. Present in both 'D'and 'R' modes. The shifts in 'D' mode were also very jerky.
- In continuation with the above, while reversing in 'R', the car was very jerky.
- For the above 2 complaints, we had gotten the injectors and throttle body cleaned (service advisor advice) and changed the gearbox oil (request from our side). Voila! Both the above issues disappeared. My friend had gotten so used to the above 2 issues, that he thought it was normal behaviour of the AMT gearbox.
- Spark plug was changed in the previous service. (ODO was around 27,000 kms, and the service advisor showed that the ceramic part of the plugs were discoloured)
- Cleaning the throttle body, injectors and changing gearbox oil together improved the mileage of the car also. It was averaging between 13-15 kmpl, now its getting 15-17 kmpl. The engine Air filter was changed along with the spark plugs.
- Air Conditioning was sub par. Summer heat was well felt into the cabin and even on the lowest settings, the cabin was just okay. Had topped up the A/C gas from an outside A/C service tech shop, cleaned the AC condenser (by pouring water) and had put Garware sunfilm on all windows and front windsheild (with 20% tint) (it was the Icecool or ice shield i think). The cabin is significantly cooler after the above minus the heat radiating from the roof. It will definitely need both sound dampening and thermal insulation (A discussion for another thread).
- Battery was changed around 34,000 kms or 2.5 years. Switched to Amaron 40Ah with 72 month warranty (36 month + 36 month prorata) , which cost around Rs.4000 after buyback of old battery.
- This was just a one-off event, the car had refused to start after it was parked on an incline. It took multiple cranks and pressing the accelerator to get the car started and then to move. It was constantly getting stalled, with the engine rpms hovering around 800rpms and then back to zero. Again, this was a one-off event, and just happened once. It did not repeat itself. Happened when the ODO was around 35,000 kms.

Other points:
- Parts service life is on the lower side. The Hyundai mechanics said the average part-life is around 40,000 kms for items like spark plugs, drive-belt, etc.
- A funny incident happened during the service of the 2nd Grand i10. (I had taken the car for both the paid During the first paid service around 27,000kms, the service advisor had advised changing the drive belt of the car, claiming it to be towards the end of its life, I had a look, it was not cracked or anything and decided against it and planned to get it done for the next service. For the next service, around 36,000 kms, different service advisor, I had mentioned the drive-belt to be changed. The mechanic had a look and told me there was no need to change it and it looked good. I had asked whether he was sure and he was definitely, it can run many more kms.
- The ASC scams have moved on from engine dressing and teflon coating; to items like suspension lubrication, brake pedal bush, etc. ASC and their targets sigh.
- The gear oil brand was Servo, quantity used was about 2.5 L. The previous gear oil looked bad and was blackish. (I did not take photos) The cost came to around Rs.3000.
- ASC asked whether we would like to change to fully synthetic oil from their side, Servo brand. The cost was around Rs.3000 or so.
- The new Facelift, although might not appeal to everyone in terms of looks, they have added 2 essential features, Cruise Control, and 6 airbags.

This is all the information I have to share, hope this information helps other owners.

[Grand Tourer]

I was one of the first few adopters back in 2019 when the Nios was released.

I moved from my 2 year old ignis to the nios. The ignis is a story for another day but let's just say, 8 visits to the tinkering shop, one for a ball falling on the bonnet and another where in indica kissed the side arch pushing it in combined with the jerky gear shifts

The nios was a good car and was a sea of change compared to the ignis. The car felt really premium. I had opted for the sportz amt blue color. The engine was quite peppy but sometimes let down by the iron fist of the amt. But overall it was OK. I've "touched" around 140kmph on an open stretch of highway and it was stable but don't recommend going beyond 100 to 110 to get some good efficiency. The car happily revs but doesn't like being pushed

Interiors were good. Only upgrades were PU seat covers, HID lights and later a TPMS as I didn't realize I was driving on a flat till someone on the road told me.

Sound system is just there. I upgraded this with an amp and jbls including a woofer.

I decided to sell since I wanted something more powerful (picked up the nline i20). The AC conked off close to the end of the 4th year and fortunately was replaced for free. But thanks to the dealer messing up the warranty entry at the time of purchase, I couldn't extend yearly.

But overall, I loved the car. It stood still for a long time during the pandemic but was great for city drives but not a highway runner esp with 4 people and luggage plus for me to transport my guitars and amps.

I'd definitely still recommend this but even these days when I go to the showroom, the poor nios is sadly pushed off from the limelight to a dark corner only to be taken up by the Exter

[black_rider]

Question to owners. Does this car come with ISOFIX mounts?