[audioholic]

Originally Posted by Innysta

I've an issue of 3rd row seat acts like a spring when going over a speed breaker with 8 people onboard in 2.4GX Crysta (2021). If i even slightly go at 5kmph over the bump, the 3rd row passengers feel discomfort and one can feel the rear seat bottoming out kind of feel. So, i've to literally come down to 2nd gear, smoothly sail over to avoid this spring action. With only 2 rows of passengers, this doesn't happen. Is it anything to do with rear suspension set up?
Note: The issue happens not with small pot holes but with deep craters, speed breakers.

If the third row is loaded the car does bottom out when you take speed breakers at anything more than crawling speed. Its the sort of load that's created on the rear suspension when passengers sit behind the rear wheels(lever effect) The car needs stiffer springs at the rear or even adaptive ones but I guess we are asking too much

[bravo82in]

Originally Posted by 0mni

Any Crysta owner who has faced this issue before can shed some light on this issue?

The best place to look for a solution is the Toyota workshop. They handle all these issues professionally

Originally Posted by Innysta

I've an issue of 3rd row seat acts like a spring when going over a speed breaker with 8 people onboard in 2.4GX Crysta (2021). If i even slightly go at 5kmph over the bump, the 3rd row passengers feel discomfort and one can feel the rear seat bottoming out kind of feel. So, i've to literally come down to 2nd gear, smoothly sail over to avoid this spring action. With only 2 rows of passengers, this doesn't happen. Is it anything to do with rear suspension set up?
Note: The issue happens not with small pot holes but with deep craters, speed breakers.

The issue may be due the 3rd row seat not properly attached/ locked.
Ensure that this part of the rear seat is lifted up



and attaches properly here



The other reason may be because suspension bottoms out. Get the suspension checked and if the issue persist you may try silicon buffers in the rear suspension springs. (Example)

[Innysta]

Originally Posted by audioholic

If the third row is loaded the car does bottom out when you take speed breakers at anything more than crawling speed. Its the sort of load that's created on the rear suspension when passengers sit behind the rear wheels(lever effect) The car needs stiffer springs at the rear or even adaptive ones but I guess we are asking too much

Do XUV700 have adaptive suspension system, found some detail in the web here.

Originally Posted by bravo82in

The issue may be due the 3rd row seat not properly attached/ locked. Ensure that this part of the rear seat is lifted up
and attaches properly here.

This is not the issue.

Originally Posted by bravo82in

The other reason may be because suspension bottoms out. Get the suspension checked

Yeah, that's the plan at the time of 40k service, few months away.

[bravo82in]

Originally Posted by Innysta

Do XUV700 have adaptive suspension system, found some detail in the web

It says advanced not adaptive

Yeah, that's the plan at the time of 40k service, few months away.

I've been using RogerAb in two of my Honda cars and can attest to the enhanced ride quality. I've never felt the need for buffers in Crysta, as I've removed the 3 row seats, making it essentially a four-seater.

[rakesh_r]

Super confused between the Crysta and the Hycross. I am okay with driving a manual, although an AT would be an added bonus. Both are of different architecture, but does it make sense to buy a Crysta now considering it has been on sale for quite some time?

[Innysta]

Two questions related to Fuel filling:
1. In this autocar india article, it is suggested to fill fuel upto the brim to remove air bubbles. Going by manual, it will damage fuel filler cap washer. Which is the right thing to do?
2. Is anyone filling Diesel from Shell or Nayara? Does that give better mileage, engine life (presuming less or no adulteration)?

[Stolidus500]

Originally Posted by Innysta

Two questions related to Fuel filling:
1. In this autocar india article, it is suggested to fill fuel upto the brim to remove air bubbles. Going by manual, it will damage fuel filler cap washer. Which is the right thing to do?
2. Is anyone filling Diesel from Shell or Nayara? Does that give better mileage, engine life (presuming less or no adulteration)?

1. That is only suggested to calculate mileage only. Not as a regular practice. Even for fuel efficiency calculations I wouldn't recommend as liter up or down won't affect calculation that much.(unless you absolutely have to have precise calculation for fleet or driver management. )
2. I don't know about Shell but Nayara gets it's fuel from Indian Oil depots only. Same fuel different brand. I doubt if changing brand on the dispenser will have any effect on mileage or engine life. Continue with any pump you like. Check quality and quantity of fuel at pump you frequent. If it passes, it's good enough to not cause any problem.

[muneemmk]

Does anyone know if this warning light ⚠️ comes on along with the low adblue warning ? It went off after the adblue was filled up, but just curious cause the car in Question is a 2.4 A/T running a Remap , will be scanning the car tomorrow and see if there are any errors registered, hard to find usually on toyotas unlike bmw,Vag cars still will see if there is any, scourged the entire net never found anyone with a similar issue.

[audioholic]

Has anyone replaced the ATF on their AT Crysta or Fortuner? When was it replaced and any noticeable difference? My car has crossed 40k and has been used in mixed traffic with lots of shifts. Hence was wondering if I should do a partial ATF change without dismantling the oil pan and strainer. So was looking for feedback if it's something that can make a difference or is 40k kms too early for the transmission fluid to break a sweat and the change won't make a difference. The transmission is from the stone age at least when it comes to electronics and there is no way I could find any diagnostic data about it's health even though there is an ATF thermal degradation value that's logged but isn't displayed in my Toyota Techstream tool.

Originally Posted by muneemmk

Does anyone know if this warning light ⚠️ comes on along with the low adblue warning ? It went off after the adblue was filled up, but just curious cause the car in Question is a 2.4 A/T running a Remap , will be scanning the car tomorrow and see if there are any errors registered, hard to find usually on toyotas unlike bmw,Vag cars still will see if there is any, scourged the entire net never found anyone with a similar issue.

No not in my Crysta Z AT at least. When Adblue is low I only get the Adblue light on and not this warning. Was it always on or only after engine shut down?

[sridhu]

Originally Posted by Innysta

Two questions related to Fuel filling:
1. ... it is suggested to fill fuel upto the brim to remove air bubbles. Going by manual, it will damage fuel filler cap washer. Which is the right thing to do?

I would go by the manual rather than some random article or a guy on the internet, like me

Originally Posted by Innysta

Is anyone filling Diesel from Shell or Nayara? Does that give better mileage, engine life (presuming less or no adulteration)?

2. In my earlier, original, Innova, the catalytic converter was spoiled within 6 months. I was using Shell diesel exclusively. (Nandi Toyota replaced it under warranty. Thank God!). The ASM identified the Shell fuel as the culprit. I stopped shell diesel from that time and, 400k km later, across that car and the Crysta, have had no issues. So would suggest to avoid Shell. Stay with usual culprits.

[Malhi]

Hello BHPians, i am in a dilemma. Please suggest.

I just sold my 2017 Innova Crysta which had clocked over 2.2 Lac kms and now I am in the market looking for a replacement.

My usage pattern is high mileage, rough usage and driven mainly by a driver. The options I've shortlisted for myself are:
1. New Innova Crysta
2. Used Fortuner

Going with a new Innova would have been an easy choice for me but I am seriously tired of the Innova, as the one I sold was my third consecutive Innova, since 2007. FYI- the other two had also clocked more that 2Lac kms before I sold them off.

Undoubtedly, the Innova's reliability, comfort and the ability to take abuse is unmatched in it's price bracket, however I feel the Innova feels a bit bit dated now and I am desperately looking for a change (for the better).

The Fortuner is the only car that comes to my mind which could deliver the qualities of the Innova and some more. Anything else will feel like a step down. However, I feel the Fortuner is highly over-priced even in the used market. To put things into perspective a 2020 model Fortuner with around 80k on the odo will cost around 29-30 Lacs on road, whereas a new Innova (base variant) will cost me around 23.5 Lacs on road. Further, both being diesel I will only get 6 effective years with the Fortuner but with the Crysta I would have 10 years.

Regards.

[g_sanjib]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Has anyone replaced the ATF on their AT Crysta or Fortuner? When was it replaced and any noticeable difference?

Yes, I have just recently got the AT Oil changed for my Crysta.
Before I begin, I must say that I have been reading your posts audioholic and they are very informative.

Let me share my experience here: I have a Jan 2017 registered Crysta 2.8 Z and bought it pre-worshipped in April'23. It belonged to a very senior Toyota official at Bidadi and was in a mint condition when I got it home. It just needed basic servicing which was done after my purchase. There was absolutely no need of any AT oil change. As I kept reading about Crysta AT reviews in this forum, I went through a couple of notes from GTO and other folks who did recommend an AT Oil change every 5 years of ownership for any vehicle as nothing is necessarily "sealed for life". That prompted me to enquire at the Nandi Toyota Service Centre at Hosur Road about the AT Oil change. As expected, the Service folks were not willing to change the AT Oil as it is not a readily available stock and has to be ordered from the plant at Bidadi. They too advised the same thing, that it needs no oil change at all. However, upon my insistence they ordered for the part which arrived in a week's time (imported from Thailand to the Bidadi plant). I had to purchase a total of two cans, 4 Litres each and the final bill was for Rs. 12540/-

Let me now share my experience during the oil change and the characteristics of the vehicle post the AT oil change was done.

In the attached photographs you will see that when they flushed out the old oil, around 1700 ML of oil came out and what went inside was 4 Litres of oil !! That itself convinced me that I took the right decision of replacing the oil. When I asked the service folks as to why only 1700 ML of old oil came out, they mentioned that that the AT gearbox gets so hot that over a period of time, oil gets evaporated !! Means the gearbox was running at almost 135% of deficit oil needed to perform its best . But it was still running quite well and I had no issues. That's Toyota really

Now just immediately after the AT oil change, while performing the road test, I didn't feel much of a difference. However after driving it to my office and back home for almost 2 to 3 days, and around 50 kms, I realized that the gearbox and engine have become super duper smooth and there is almost NO diesel clutter or any other kind of engine noise whatsoever . It almost became as smooth as my Honda City Petrol AT and even better than my Hyundai Tucson CRDi AT

I now finally feel that the money spent was definitely worth it and YES nothing is really "sealed for life" in auto mechanics. Everything needs periodic maintenance and change. Very happy with the experience now and loving the silky smooth and very limited diesel clutter noise drive to my office .

One thing to note is that: Only 4 Litres of AT Oil needs to be changed, however you will still need to buy two cans of 4 Litres each, and that is because they put additional oil inside the gearbox and again take it our for testing purposes.

Hope this was helpful, and I will be happy to answer any additional queries.

A few snaps:

[bravo82in]

My Crysta GX is due for 80k km service. I was planning to add two OEM accessories

1. Leg room lamp
2. Welcome door lamp

However I have been informed that Leg room lamp now comes in a fixed blue colour (The app based model has been discontinued)

Welcome door lamp can be installed only in front doors in GX variant of Crysta

Can any confirm the same? Are there any reliable plug and play alternatives to these accessories? Being electrical accessories I will prefer OEM or a reliable manufacturer.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by g_sanjib

Yes, I have just recently got the AT Oil changed for my Crysta.

Hope this was helpful, and I will be happy to answer any additional queries.

A few snaps:

Thank you for that detailed post. At what distance on the odometer did you change the ATF? Did you stay with the car during the process? I read the service manual and the ATF replacement process is not so straight forward. It needs the transmission oil to reach a certain temperature before we can drain it and replace It especially if we have to get the quantity right.

A lot of global forums report that the AC60 transmission that we are discussing here come with less oil filled from factory and after the change the behaviour improves. Hence, I am tempted to try and the other reason being the sort of use these transmissions undergo in our dense traffic, which is unlike developed countries where the sealed for life concept might work.

Overall my car runs fine, but I find the transmission too slow and at lower gears there is some torque converter lag which I hate, especially after driving the DSG back to back. So thinking of properly replacing the fluid and filling the right quantity.

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by g_sanjib

Let me now share my experience during the oil change and the characteristics of the vehicle post the AT oil change was done.


Now just immediately after the AT oil change, while performing the road test, I didn't feel much of a difference. However after driving it to my office and back home for almost 2 to 3 days, and around 50 kms, I realized that the gearbox and engine have become super duper smooth and there is almost NO diesel clutter or any other kind of engine noise whatsoever . It almost became as smooth as my Honda City Petrol AT and even better than my Hyundai Tucson CRDi AT

Attachment 2624845

That does sound like quite the difference but it does not make sense. We don't normally hear any noise from the transmission. What does diesel engine noise and clutter have to do with transmission oil change? Why would there be a difference at all unless engine oil was also changed? There is no noticeable change in engine noise between manual or automatic crysta either as far as I know.

Originally Posted by audioholic

When was it replaced and any noticeable difference? My car has crossed 40k and has been used in mixed traffic with lots of shifts. Hence was wondering if I should do a partial ATF change without dismantling the oil pan and strainer. So was looking for feedback if it's something that can make a difference or is 40k kms too early for the transmission fluid to break a sweat and the change won't make a difference.

Overall my car runs fine, but I find the transmission too slow and at lower gears there is some torque converter lag which I hate, especially after driving the DSG back to back. So thinking of properly replacing the fluid and filling the right quantity

40k is nothing. You can think about doing it maybe after reaching 100k at the least. This model of torque converter is slow. It is functioning normally. I have driven old school 4 speed and and newer 6 speed toyota torque converters and they are all rather slow and laggy on downshifts or when taking off no matter whether they come with a 2.4 diesel, 2.7 petrol, 2.8 diesel or a petrol V8. They won't ever come close to a DSG or the torque converters you find in BMW etc in terms of responsiveness.

It's just the way it is. Press the accelerator pedal in advance with the expectation of transmission lag. You can also test drive a new car with less kms and see that it still behaves exactly the same.