Team-BHP - Toyota Innova Crysta : Official Review

Quote:

Originally Posted by DicKy (Post 5292405)

Looks like some Toyota thingy?

First noticed this in my uncle's '01 Qualis. Was mighty annoyed with the frequent ON/OFF of the compressor/fan(?). Then noticed the same in a first gen Innova. Thought it was some Asian market specific thing to save fuel and prevent load(?) on the engine.

Guess what, saw the same thing in an LC200 V6!!! Our Etios D takes it to another level. When idling or at low speeds it just keeps on switching the compressor/fan(?). Not to say, the fan sound is too high. When our car is approaching can hear the whirling fan sound way before we can hear the engine. Our F10D WagonR had the same, but less frequent. Haven't seen this in many other cars.

Rightly put. This is mightily annoying.! I was surprised that no one has commented on this in the Crysta review threads.

Surely this is an 'improve mileage' thingy. But why do that in an LC. Have no clue..! But AC is a chiller. No issues noticed on cooling front.

Another strange thing was that all tyres had more than 45psi pressure in them. Good that I had a pressure gauge. Any reason why OEMs do this? Some kind of testing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by poloman (Post 5292444)

Surely this is an 'improve mileage' thingy.

Not necessarily.

The behavior of the aircon system (any aircon. Not just a car) depends on the position of your thermostat too. If desired cabin temperature has been reached, the system will cut out. If it keeps the compressor engaged all the time, you'll get uncomfortable pretty quick. Its either the compressor cutting in and out for you, versus reaching out for the Aircon switch every few minutes, which I am sure will get annoying.

Eco Mode may cause the compressor to cut in and out more frequently, to save that .00001% fuel. It will do so even otherwise. Its not a fault. Its how its designed.

This noise is observed in a car as refined as a Honda City too. Being a petrol engine, you tend not to notice this as its quiet. However, you do hear the fan cutting in and out, especially when you're standing outside. The ecu adjusts rpm to compensate for the additional load. In a diesel, its more audible as the engine makes more noise than a gasoline engine.

Agreed that the noise for the condenser fan in a Etios was louder than the already loud diesel engine. None of this matters when you're seated in the car. Had one heck of a powerful aircon though. It can cool the cabin in fan position 1, even on a 40 degree summer day. I prefer this than the fan blasting full speed to keep up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DicKy (Post 5292405)

You mean LC200-V8 :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by poloman (Post 5292444)

Rightly put. This is mightily annoying.!
Surely this is an 'improve mileage' thingy. But why do that in an LC. Have no clue..!

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Originally Posted by sandeepmohan (Post 5293397)

Yes, it is very annoying but in the older technology, this is necessitated else ice can form on the evaporator reducing airflow. If you notice, no matter, how low you set the temperatures, the compressor will still continue to switch off after a while.

If it makes you a little easy, this On/ Off is far less intrusive on current generation Innova than on the 8 cylinder- LC 200 :)

Newer cars have something called an HVAC system instead of normal AC, have a look at the enclosed. This is how the system works in BMW.

On older models, the DME controls the compressor, but more modern BMWs use the IHKA control unit. This is no longer done by cycling the compressor on and off as BMW now uses variable-displacement compressors. In place of an electrical/magnetic clutch, a rubber coupling connects the outer pulley with the inner compressor drive shaft

https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...stems-Work.pdf

What is the update on this?

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Originally Posted by sastradhar (Post 5286384)

I have a crysta GX Automatic 2021 june manufactured model and I just wanted to check if any one else is facing the issues I am.
While driving at speed above 45kmh while breaking screeching noise keeps coming and when I complained in the first service they said they did not find any issue.
Later I realized that even my cruise control was not working and even after reading the manual many times I could not get it to work.
For my 10k service I went to the Nandi Toyota banaswadi and when I told them my issues they told this was due to some ants in the junction box and once they are cleared the issue should be sorted out and then they informed that they are taking some data and sending it to TKM as the problem is not sorted out. After one week I requested them to give me the vehicle as i had to travel in the weekend I returned the vehicle and it is nearly a month and the vehicle is still with them.
They kept on saying they are taking lots of data and sending it to TKM and finally after three weeks the TKM guys came and took the data and some parts and disappeared.
I tried the grievances section on the toyota website and it says bad request and kicks me out. I mailed them but did not get any response.
I could not wait longer so I mailed them again and called them up and finally they woke up and responded but still they are not promising a delivery date.:Frustrati
Is it wrong with my expectations or toyota quality has gone down.
when the car was delivered to me I had to get the driver door beading fixed during the security plate fixing I think they just did not do proper QA or PDI.
I found the paint quality really poor it was getting scratched even when I put a decent car cover. Only when I got the dealer to apply paint protect the scratching stopped.

I am happy with the way the SA guys and service center experience but after this incident I feel both the dealer and TKM are just incompetent.
They are not able to give a root cause or a time line for resolution.
When I try to press them hard they say this is the first time they are seeing this kind of issue. Now they are saying they are going to get same model car and keep replacing the parts from that car and figure try to fix the issue.
If any one else is facing similar issue please advice so that I can put pressure on the service guys.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wheels (Post 5293954)

In GX 2.4 MT, With DPF burning ON in city travel, noticed uncomfortable thrust when starting at 1st gear from signal (same feeling of a bike with choke ON and driving it). Especially a rubber band effect when releasing the clutch to move by engaging 1st gear.

That's the case with the AT as well. Idling speed would be increased to 1100RPM in the AT and that creates a strong creeping behavior. But it's definitely manageable except that in bumper to bumper traffic we need slightly more force on the brakes.

If I'm in the city and regen burn starts, I put the car into Eco mode and only if I get an open stretch I push the car hard in lower gears.

Another thing to note is after the regen burn is complete, I would say it's a good habit to drive at higher rpms with light throttle for a few minutes so that the exhaust components can cool down from the heat created during regen burn. This will also flush down the exhaust with a lot of air so that whatever is left of the regen is also cleared off due to air pressure.

1) Have Apollo Apterra OE tyres which is picking up almost every tiny stone from the road surface. Is it good or bad? This is added as a post trip activity to remove the stones which keeps the tyre life longer and better safer ride. Am I right?
2) It seems the 2021 Crysta has improved design of storage box which makes it easier to access AC filter by just rotating the lock knob. In the previous versions, one has to additionally remove the supporting arm as well. Is this true?see this video for ref

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbanator (Post 5293479)

Newer cars have something called an HVAC system instead of normal AC, have a look at the enclosed. This is how the system works in BMW.

HVAC has been around for quite some time. Its not a new technology.

After reading that PDF, you've scared me a bit. That is the system on my BMW 3 series! Personally; it isn't a system suited for harsh climate conditions such as ours. There is logic in their approach so I'll give them credit for that. Dropping the cabin temperature to uncomfortably low levels is not ideal. BMW's system reduces temperature gradually. The change of temperature isn't sudden. That said, even in temperatures that are 25 degrees, I need to blast the aircon (also known as Max AC) for a while to bring down cabin temperature. Leave it in Auto and you start sweating quick. The IHKA control unit isn't the smartest out there. At often times, it blows air in the wrong direction. I need to over-ride it.

Its interesting to read how BMW's Hvac system works. Honestly though and true to how Germans build cars, they've made something that is proven to be functional, an over complicated system. They increased the points of error or fault, compared to a simpler Hvac system.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sankar (Post 5033313)

Replies in italics

I made that video when I changed over to stock suspension in Dec 2020 and the only thing keeping me from getting it re-installed is that I am not driving much as I used to, compared to this stock suspension is :thumbsdown

I have a Innova Crysta and wanting an alternative to get rid of the body roll. One of the choice is to change the suspension, after having gone through couple of post from various owners who have changed their suspension - I am somewhat convinced to have choice between Bilstein B6 0r Ironman (with Eibach springs) credits to brraj :).

Now my question is Innova is now for its suspension which is loved by the rear seat passengers (as this has a float effect) and glides though most pot holes comfortably. How much of this would be reduced, is it worth the tradeoff ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by poloman (Post 5291919)

I could feel there is a continuous clicking sound like ac switching on and off with a minor increase or decrease in the RPM. Is this going to affect the AC performance or durability anyway in long term?

Quote:

Originally Posted by poloman (Post 5292190)

The Idle RPM goes up and down by may be 10rpm every 5 seconds or so with a clicking sound heard in the cabin.

Late to respond, but thought I would clarify. At least in my car, irrespective of what mode you are in, AC compressor never switches in 5 second cycles. And to add to it, the compressor clutch doesnt make any clicking sound at all. The only difference I can notice is the change in engine RPM and increase in diesel clatter.

However there is one clicking sound that can be heard only on the outside of the car, when idling. That is the Adblue injector which is enriching the SCR catalyst by injecting Adblue once every few seconds. This causes a clicking sound thats similar to any relay operating. The same clicking sound can also be heard during DPF regeneration when the fifth injector is working. That time, the sound can be heard every second.

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Originally Posted by mug:mush (Post 5292383)

I had a chuckle reading this. I recently completed 60K service of my 2.8Z Crysta (run 57K) and am still on my first set of brake pads!

Thats pretty surprising. Some people I interacted with said that the 2.8L AT eats brake pads within no time. Perhaps your driving habits are the sole reason you are getting such a good life out of them. Lets see how long the brake pads in my car last.