[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

UPDATE:

Attaching some pics of the said actuator and the opened dashboard:

I'm no expert, but this is generally a fairly standard Tata car part. Its sibling also sits in my Vista. This is the actuator for the air recirculation vent caps, not for any temperature control etc. When you put the mode to recirculate cabin air, this motor turns the flaps and closes the inlets - which otherwise bring in the fresh air from outside.

An issue similar to what you have reported had happened in a Vista TDI of my friend a decade ago. It turned out his temperature control knob was simply stuck on heater mode internally and so the heater was ON and was blowing hot air into the cabin, that's all. See if that's the case in your car intermittently.

This theory they have given of actuator etc seems quite imaginative at least to me. I think in manually controlled AC cars like ours, the only thing that happens for temperature control by the rotary knob is the duration for which the compressor is turned ON and OFF. Nothing else. (I may be wrong big time here. Not an expert.)

[sourabhzen]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

UPDATE:

Caution: This may sound more like a rant!

My Storme has the same problem from Day 1. I took it to TASS (Concorde Motors) as number of times but they could not resolve it. I have given up now and have decided to live with it. However, I am sure they will find a solution after the warranty period and then I have to pay for the same.

[avinash_m]

Apologies for the delayed response guys; not sure how I missed these posts.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

This is the actuator for the air re-circulation vent caps, not for any temperature control etc. When you put the mode to recirculate cabin air, this motor turns the flaps and closes the inlets - which otherwise bring in the fresh air from outside.

An issue similar to what you have reported had happened in a Vista TDI of my friend a decade ago.
This theory they have given of actuator etc seems quite imaginative at least to me.

You could be right here, specially considering what they finally did, to resolve the issue. The Vista issue sounds quite similar as well. With this incident, I've now come to realize the BS story my TASS was selling me earlier about this issue; more on that below.

I think in manually controlled AC cars like ours, the only thing that happens for temperature control by the rotary knob is the duration for which the compressor is turned ON and OFF. Nothing else.

Apart from that, a change in the knob position ideally decides how much hot air is to be blended with the cool air, to achieve the desired temp (less cool). However, the source of this hot air flow is different in different cars. Apparently, in the case of Storme, this is regulated by the coolant temperature, unlike air temperature in some other cars.

Originally Posted by sourabhzen

My Storme has the same problem from Day 1.

If you don't use the functionality, then IMHO don't bother to even bring it up with them.

Now coming to the resolution - so what they've fixed is nothing but a malfunctioning flap mechanism which basically controls the coolant flow, used for the AC temperature regulation in this case. Apparently, that was getting stuck in 'open' whenever the knob was rotated to the heating side, resulting in the constant hot air.

I'd to spend close to 2-3 hours with them, driving around in the blazing hot sun, playing with the knob, to make them understand what's wrong! This was, after they'd claimed to have 'fixed' it by replacing the actuator. I was actually called to take delivery of the vehicle, at the time; the problem resurfaced in the first 15 mins of a trial drive, as soon as the engine hit its operating temperature mark. The probe thermometer refused to budge from the 43-45 C even after pulling the knob back to full cool mode.

Anyway, I got to learn another Safari quirk in all this. Apparently, the only way to increase the temperature (less cool) is by first moving the knob to little past the half-way mark (12 o clock position) and then bring it back to a desired (less) cool zone. No matter how much I argued about why it just didn't make sense, I was made to eat my words when the test thermometer we carried along during the final trial drive, supported the theory; it barely moved when I changed it from full cool to about 60 % (10 o clock). Only when it was moved past the halfway and then brought back to that position, did the temperature increased and settled around 33-35 C.

All said and done, this was probably the worst service experience I've had so far, with this TASS. The car spent close to 3 weeks there with barely a day and half worth of work! To make matters worse, opening the dashboard twice, for a false 'actuator' issue, they've damaged the trim around the ICE, while trying to pry open the center console! The actual 'sticky' flap mechanism was just behind a panel on the driver's foot well. While I understand that such problems can be complex to diagnose and fix, the sheer mismanagement and lackadaisical attitude on the service floor really got my goat! I'd made clear that unless that damaged trim is replaced, I'll not take delivery of the vehicle. Finally, they agreed to put an order for the part, and gave it to me in writing (on invoice) that it'll be replaced for free once it arrives. Last week, my SA calls me to inform that the part has arrived, but they'll replace if I agree to bear 50% of the cost (12K approx. is the MRP)! I bluntly said NO, and asked him to call me once he gets the free replacement approved. After numerous tries to call them and not getting any response, I've finally raised a complaint on the TMSC app, still waiting on any further action.

Kindly be wary of Venkatramana Tata motors Hyderabad from here on!

[prakash24979]

Post a complaint on their Facebook page also. My friend's Tiago had a similar problem and got resolved soon after it was posted on the Facebook page of Tata motors.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

UPDATE:

Looks like I'll be stuck with a brand new analogue clock, because it can't be fixed in my Storme.

What you'd been informed by ur Delhi dealer is precisely what I was told by my TASS too, the requisite wiring harness, needed for the clock, isn't there in this version. The only possibility now is a 'jugaad', which the TASS folks don't seem to be keen on.

If you would like to take the DIY way, I can help you out.

It has 4 connectors, right to left -
Pin 1 - Positive (always on / direct)to keep the clock running while car is idle.
Pin 2 - Back light
Pin 3 - Ground
Pin 4 - Switched Positive - Can be connected from accessory slot (cigar plug/fuse tap)

I have installed the same in my 2016 Storme Ex. Let me know if you need more details.

[avinash_m]

Originally Posted by varun560061

It has 4 connectors, right to left -
Pin 1 - Positive (always on / direct)to keep the clock running while car is idle.
Pin 2 - Back light
Pin 3 - Ground
Pin 4 - Switched Positive - Can be connected from accessory slot (cigar plug/fuse tap)

Thanks a ton Varun and apologies for the delayed response! I absolutely will take the DIY route, just waiting for some spare time, to take it up.

A follow-up query for you - pretty sure you'd have had to open up the central AC vents piece, how easy or difficult is it!? I have the pry tools required for opening the dashboard.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

A follow-up query for you - pretty sure you'd have had to open up the central AC vents piece, how easy or difficult is it!? I have the pry tools required for opening the dashboard.

Once you pry out the entire console, disconnect all the electrical connectors.
The AC vents are one piece, it has total of 8 clips around them, you will need a nose plier (use masking tape at the ends of the pliers so that it won't damage the plastic clips) to undo the clips. Final step is to remove the Dummy cap with Storme written on it and place the clock in the empty slot.

[avinash_m]

And so it happened; the first significant 'BANG' and it has dealt a body blow! Completely my fault, playing chicken with a guy trying to sneak in into my lane at a rather busy airport toll, and misjudging the truck in front of me.

I'd tried hard keeping the metal intact so far in all these years, did collect few scratches but only on the mouldings and bumpers. Now starts the tricky part of finding a competent dent/paint guy and getting the job done rite..

[avinash_m]

Originally Posted by varun560061

Once you pry out the entire console, disconnect all the electrical connectors.

Hey Varun - Can you please help with the following queries:

1. Which portion on the console should one be starting from, to open?! Gear lever boot or some other place, please help if any sequence to be followed?!

2. What kind of connectors did you use on the clock ports, for connecting the wires?

3. What length of wires to be used? Believe positive port would need to be fed directly from the battery, rest from fuse box?

4. Where in the firewall did you route the wires from engine compartment to the cabin?

Apologies if the questions sound noob; tried PMing you but it doesn't allow me to..

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

And so it happened; the first significant 'BANG' and it has dealt a body blow! Completely my fault, playing chicken with a guy trying to sneak in into my lane at a rather busy airport toll, and misjudging the truck in front of me.

Ah! Hurts when nobody else to blame! Although - I must say the dent actually shows how strong the bonnet is! A hit like this with a truck even at 5kmph would cause much more damage on most other cars! Cars in society parkings get far more damage than this by just nicks from kids' bicycles & badminton rackets!

Did you get it fixed already? I hope its restored to its original pristine condition now. For good body restore & best paint finish - I actually stick to TML's own workshops & bodyshops. They really are better than anything else out there. Fully worth the higher cost for our beloved car.

[avinash_m]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Although - I must say the dent actually shows how strong the bonnet is! A hit like this with a truck even at 5kmph would cause much more damage on most other cars!

Indeed, it is. Infact, I was fearing latch damage too, but it works just fine! Although, there's some invisible damage to the grill (cracked under the section which caved) and the left headlight (broken mount) too, it's something which I can live with, as it works just fine and will also act as a reminder/lesson learnt, until an absolute need to replace comes up.

Did you get it fixed already? I hope its restored to its original pristine condition now. For good body restore & best paint finish - I actually stick to TML's own workshops & bodyshops. They really are better than anything else out there. Fully worth the higher cost for our beloved car.

Haven't fixed so far, just got quotations from a couple of FNGs and a TASS. TASS obviously is expensive but the SA was quite clear in assessing the damage and more importantly, also showed me a finished accident job on a red-maroonish shade Tiago. While there was a slight color mismatch (more due to the clear coat than the shade), I was told that it'd take a week for the actual color to take effect (the job was completed only a few hours back), wherein the difference would come down even more. What gave me more confidence was when they mentioned that both the hood and the bumper (getting that done too, for minor nicks) would be taken out for mending and painting separately.
Thanks for the wishes, hoping for the best, fingers crossed!!

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

Hey Varun - Can you please help with the following queries:

Hello,

1. Start from right corner bottom (music system panel). No need to remove gear boot. Preferable to have trim prying tool or use a small flat head screwdriver wrapped with masking tape so that it won't scratch the panel.

2. 3 mm horn couplers, available in most electronics stores.

3. Get a fuse tap and tap from cabin lamp fuse, rest there can be tapped from fuse tap or can be taken from cigar plug or the music system itself.

4. No need to get any wire from engine bay.

PS : if you come to Bangalore anytime I can help you or let me know if you need any pics of the wiring.

[avinash_m]

Originally Posted by varun560061

1. Start from right corner bottom (music system panel). No need to remove gear boot. Preferable to have trim prying tool or use a small flat head screwdriver wrapped with masking tape so that it wont scratch the panel.

2. 3 mm horn couplers, available in most electronics stores.

3. Get a fuse tap and tap from cabin lamp fuse, rest there can be tapped from fuse tap or can be taken from cigar plug or the music system itself.

4. No need to get any wire from engine bay.

Excellent, thanks a ton!

Fuse tapping should help as I already have hard-wired the dashcam and also made an extra charging point (both DIYs) similarly; didnt want to spoil the standard lighter, to use as charging point, bit of a sucker myself for an OE look .
About the coupler though, went around asking at couple of nearby accessories shops but both refused looking at the ports' size. Searched on amazon and found these two useful.

1. OFNMY Female Spade Crimp Terminal Cable Connector with Insulating Sleeve Assortment Kit (2.8, 4.8 and 6.3 mm) -150 Packs https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07S2RJKMR/..._Gwb3Db6S2V2YV

2. INVENTO 4 sets 4 pin Male and Female 4 wire JST Connector Cable Lock Type for LED Lights DIY Projects - Pack of 8 https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07J3DCCVG/..._Oxb3DbEFF79SW

Wasn't sure if the 2.8mm one (on the first) would also fit, so have ordered the second one, as it seemed like it (female connecter) may just fit. If not then, will return and order the #1 box pack.

Blore visits are rare but they do happen from time to time. Will PM you (do activate it!?) if there's any plan.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

Excellent, thanks a ton!
Blore visits are rare but they do happen from time to time. Will PM you (do activate it!?) if there's any plan.

Use this one from the link which you have sent..


Also get the heat shrink sleeve if you don't have them handy.
https://www.amazon.in/Lukzer-530pcs-...ovement&sr=1-2

Since I m at newbie level, PM feature would take some time and posts to gain eligibility.

[avinash_m]

It has 4 connectors, right to left -
Pin 1 - Positive (always on / direct)to keep the clock running while car is idle.
Pin 2 - Back light
Pin 3 - Ground
Pin 4 - Switched Positive - Can be connected from accessory slot (cigar plug/fuse tap)

Guess I hit a road block with this DIY. Just thought I'd test out the clock by connecting it to a 3V battery, but it didnt move. Initially thought maybe I got the ports wrong but swapping it other way didnt help either. Is the clock faulty or am I missing something!? Attaching a pic for reference..