[udainxs]

Originally Posted by adutta2k

Hey Amit,

I believe after 1 year you went for the 2nd free servicing (1 year/10,000 kms). How come you ended up paying 3k?

Consumables are not free. Only the service labor is waived.

[Dieseldrifter]

Originally Posted by Jebs

Apart from Oil and oil filter changes, do they change AC filter as well?

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

AC filter is not changed, it is just cleaned.

It basically depends upon the type of AC filter that you are having in your car. Like my friend bought his elite in the month of feb 2015, i was accompanying him, when he went for the service. The AC filter that was present in his car was of black color with sieve like plastic (just like the AC filter of window and spilt AC) so they easily cleaned it with water jet, but during my service i noticed that my AC filter is of paper type (like maruti uses) which cannot be cleaned with water or air, it is simply to be replaced.
When i asked my trusted SA that why there is difference in the AC filter as my friend was having different one. He explained me that the car models till march 2015 have plastic type AC filter and the models afterwards have paper type filter (mine is april 2015). He also told me that both have different prices and one that is made up of paper is costly, but better than the plastic made (which has wide bore sieve),as in the paper filter the dust particles are filtered in a better way. Please first check what kind of filter your car is having and preferably change it to the paper type.

Originally Posted by aspire

Hi,Can someone provide details of what was the defective part, that is being replaced by Hyundai, free of cost? Is there any way, I can check if my VIN number is also in the list?

Kindly use search option before posting queries , because this was discussed many a times earlier. Please visit post no. 1214 & 1318 of the same thread.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by Dieseldrifter

It basically depends upon the type of AC filter that you are having in your car. Like my friend bought his elite in the month of feb 2015, i was accompanying him, when he went for the service. The AC filter that was present in his car was of black color with sieve like plastic (just like the AC filter of window and spilt AC) so they easily cleaned it with water jet, but during my service i noticed that my AC filter is of paper type (like maruti uses) which cannot be cleaned with water or air, it is simply to be replaced.
When i asked my trusted SA that why there is difference in the AC filter as my friend was having different one. He explained me that the car models till march 2015 have plastic type AC filter and the models afterwards have paper type filter (mine is april 2015). He also told me that both have different prices and one that is made up of paper is costly, but better than the plastic made (which has wide bore sieve),as in the paper filter the dust particles are filtered in a better way. Please first check what kind of filter your car is having and preferably change it to the paper type.

Didn't know they have changed the type of filter. I have the plastic sieve one. For now it is working fine, will get it changed in case there is a problem. Thanks for the info.

[Serendipity_05]

Originally Posted by Dr.Naren

Hello Team,
Has anyone tried remapping Elite i20 diesel? I happened to see this post in Code 6 tuning FB page. They claim torque increase from 210 to 312 which is really unbelievable. I guess it's a typo or making false claims blindly

Hello Dr Saheb, this i20 belongs to me and i am not sure of the 118bhp figure but yes, the OBD scanner output a figure close to 113bhp post remap. I am sure the torque has also gone up within perceptible limits. I do doubt that its not 313nm, but yes, the remap(3rd Stage as Code6 calls it) has made her an absolute bliss to drive.

i can post a non to ton video for reference if need be.

[Dr.Naren]

Originally Posted by Serendipity_05

Hello Dr Saheb, this i20 belongs to me and i am not sure of the 118bhp figure but yes, the OBD scanner output a figure close to 113bhp post remap. I am sure the torque has also gone up within perceptible limits. I do doubt that its not 313nm, but yes, the remap(3rd Stage as Code6 calls it) has made her an absolute bliss to drive.

i can post a non to ton video for reference if need be.

I am not questioning about the power gain post remap buddy. But the figures quoted is hard to believe (especially the torque gain from 220 to 312 nm). OBD reader values are inaccurate most of the times. For example in my grand i10 diesel, it used to show 92 bhp at times in stock mode. What do you mean by stage 3 tune? Did they do any hardware mods? Usually stage 3 tune means bigger turbo, injectors and many more hardware changes.

[mavindro]

Originally Posted by NirmalK

Hello Guys,

I have an i20 Asta Diesel bought in July 2015. In a few days I started hearing this 'Brooom' sound when I am applying brake when driving over rough road/surface.

Hi,

Had reported the same issue to my SA and instantly he took me for a test drive over a rough patch of road (can be easily found in Bangalore) and replicated it. He assured me that it is the ABS that is coming into play and there is no reason to worry at all. Guess other bhpians have received similar feedback.

[mavindro]

Originally Posted by Dinesh_Malhotra

Hi Mavindro,

I can't PM you. It says that I can't PM you for some reason or your inbox is full.

Any other way?

Is there a possibility of sending me an email with your no in it? Are you getting that option?

[Maverick1977]

And the 1st problem arises:
Was driving the i20 through a bit narrow lane and a biker in the tearing hurry that they always are, nudged the driver's side ORVM a bit. Nothing seemed to have happened and the mirrors were folding as usual.
Today whilst locking the car my wife noticed that the right ORVM had suddenly stopped folding in automatically. Initially my wife felt that the car had stopped locking but then she noticed that only the ORVM wasn't moving.
The biker's nudge hasn't even chipped off the paint so I am sure the impact was not that hard also.
Has any one faced such an issue? Are electric mirrors so delicate? Are mirrors serviceable, as in can I get them repaired from outside?

[ssengo]

RPM Meter Fluctuates with Check Engine lights glow:

I have a weird problem with the RPM Meter fluctuating often during idle and also while driving at around 100kmph and comes back to normal and after a while again the issue is seen. During this period, the temperature meter drops to zero with check engine lights blinking now and then.

Issue:
1. I start the car.
2. During idle phase, the accelerator meter normally shoots to 1000rpm which is normal.
3. After few minutes, the RPM meter suddenly fluctuates and drops to Zero and again shoots up to 1000rpm and the same continues.
4. During this fluctuation, the temperature which has reached 5 points now drops to zero immediately.
5. During this process, the malfunction light appears then disappears and sometimes always stay during this issue.
6. This issue not only happens during idle but also faced several times while driving at 80-100 kmph in the midnight while driving with family and such a scary situation. I had also once towed the car due to this issue when traveling with family in the night.

Experts please advice on what could be the problem and how to rectify this issue. I have planned to visit the Hyundai service shortly and need your suggestions before hand.

Looking forward for your expert guidance.

[anoop_gkris]

Originally Posted by ssengo

RPM Meter Fluctuates with Check Engine lights glow:

I have a weird problem with the RPM Meter fluctuating often during idle and also while driving at around 100kmph and comes back to normal and after a while again the issue is seen. During this period, the temperature meter drops to zero with check engine lights blinking now and then.

Issue:
1. I start the car.
2. During idle phase, the accelerator meter normally shoots to 1000rpm which is normal.
3. After few minutes, the RPM meter suddenly fluctuates and drops to Zero and again shoots up to 1000rpm and the same continues.
4. During this fluctuation, the temperature which has reached 5 points now drops to zero immediately.
5. During this process, the malfunction light appears then disappears and sometimes always stay during this issue.
6. This issue not only happens during idle but also faced several times while driving at 80-100 kmph in the midnight while driving with family and such a scary situation. I had also once towed the car due to this issue when traveling with family in the night.

Experts please advice on what could be the problem and how to rectify this issue. I have planned to visit the Hyundai service shortly and need your suggestions before hand.

Looking forward for your expert guidance.

Maybe some cable is loose, that connects to the instrument cluster. Do you feel any change in the cars drive behavior?

[RSR]

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

Was driving the i20 through a bit narrow lane and a biker in the tearing hurry that they always are, nudged the driver's side ORVM a bit. Nothing seemed to have happened and the mirrors were folding as usual.
Today whilst locking the car my wife noticed that the right ORVM had suddenly stopped folding in automatically. Initially my wife felt that the car had stopped locking but then she noticed that only the ORVM wasn't moving.

I believe this may be a temporary glitch due to the impact that doesn't require repairs.

If the right mirror doesn't auto fold when the car is locked, do try to fold it with manual intervention by pressing the retract button, twice or thrice in quick succession.

8 times out of 10, the mirror will start folding in again when you repeat the process (manual press of the button) three or four times etc. And then it should be back to normal.

If the above method does not work, do step up the manual intervention. Sit in the driver's seat, roll down the driver's window, gently press the stubborn right ORVM inwards (note - please don't exert force) with one hand and while doing so, press the ORVM retract button simultaneously with the other hand. This should do the trick!

Once it has folded in, make it fold out and fold in again repeatedly by pressing the button. Things should be back to normal pretty soon.

Although our previous gen. i20 doesn't have the auto-retract on locking feature, this is the method I follow whenever either of the electrically folding ORVMs takes a hit (they've taken quite a few, with the worst being against a bus, when the left mirror folded in by 25% due to the impact).

The two methods I mentioned got the mirrors working again after every hit whenever they appeared to get stuck. The only thing with them suffering these hits is that the right ORVM (which has taken more hits) now appears to fold out & fold in slightly slower than the left one. Otherwise, they have survived the hits and I haven't had to get them repaired so far. (Immediately touches wood!)

Originally Posted by ssengo

Experts please advice on what could be the problem and how to rectify this issue. I have planned to visit the Hyundai service shortly and need your suggestions before hand.

Looking forward for your expert guidance.

As mentioned by anoop_gkris above, it looks like some loose connection. It could also be because of a rodent chewing up some wire in the engine bay.

As long as the tachometer indication is not accompanied by the engine itself widely & suddenly varying the rpm, then electrical wires/connectors associated with the tachometer/instrument cluster seem like the most likely cause.

[ssengo]

Originally Posted by anoop_gkris

Maybe some cable is loose, that connects to the instrument cluster. Do you feel any change in the cars drive behavior?

I don't see any change in behavior while driving, but during idle there is some power loss noticed and little vibration too.

[ro3hit]

Originally Posted by ssengo

I don't see any change in behavior while driving, but during idle there is some power loss noticed and little vibration too.

Sorry if i missed it previously, but, how old is your car and how many KM's has it run.

My main intention of asking this from you is because i had faced a similar issue when i had i10 previously.

One fine day on the way to dinner, with the engine running and the car moving, all the meters went down to zero and all the warning lights fired up. This lasted for a few seconds and everything would be back to normal. This happened a couple of times and was scary actually.

I was close to the restaurant and since i din't see any drop in performance or warning lights consistently i gave the car to the valet.

Once i got back the valet informed that the car was not starting and he had to push it away from the hotel entrance . Embarrassed i tried cranking and it did not start, couple of guys at the hotel dhakka maroed the car and it started.

Long story short, the battery had given up all of a sudden and had to get it changed.

So coming to the point if it is time for your battery to be replaced that might fix the issue you are facing.

Hope this helps.

[verma_rahul]

Appears to be pretty much an electrical issue. Get it checked at an ASS. I am sure it'll be sorted out easily.

Cheers!

[ssengo]

Originally Posted by ro3hit

Sorry if i missed it previously, but, how old is your car and how many KM's has it run.

My main intention of asking this from you is because i had faced a similar issue when i had i10 previously.

One fine day on the way to dinner, with the engine running and the car moving, all the meters went down to zero and all the warning lights fired up. This lasted for a few seconds and everything would be back to normal. This happened a couple of times and was scary actually.

I was close to the restaurant and since i din't see any drop in performance or warning lights consistently i gave the car to the valet.

Once i got back the valet informed that the car was not starting and he had to push it away from the hotel entrance . Embarrassed i tried cranking and it did not start, couple of guys at the hotel dhakka maroed the car and it started.

Long story short, the battery had given up all of a sudden and had to get it changed.

So coming to the point if it is time for your battery to be replaced that might fix the issue you are facing.

Hope this helps.

My car is a Oct 2014 model and has clocked 36k kms so far. As you have rightly pointed out, let me check the battery condition when i visit the service center this weekend and get it inspected.

Thanks for your help