[hakunabatata]

Originally Posted by vpillai

Thanks Rahul.
My car is about to complete 11000 KMS.

Hey,
I'm facing the exact same issue. And as you suspected, the ASC failed to identify the root of the problem and returned the car saying they have tuned the engine. I could not reproduce the "Knock" or "Jerk" in the trial with the ASC. My car is nearing 10k on the ODO and i've been facing this issue for over 5 months now.

The problem seems to be random, at times it has occurred when you decelerate to take on a speed breaker or at high speeds. There is a very audible "Tock" sound followed by a jerk and noticeable deceleration, kind of when you panic brake for a fraction of a second and let go.

This worries me a lot as this has happened twice on a highway at speeds exceeding 80kmph and also at speeds under 30kmph in the city.

Have you found a proper solution to this yet? Has the ASC been able to identify the issue or are you still facing the problem?

Perhaps there is anyone else who's facing such issue ? Any help regarding this would be appreciated.

Mod Note: Please avoid quoting the entire post

[RSR]

Originally Posted by vpillai

Experts, if you are able to identify the issue from my description (or atleast a clue on which parts to be checked), please provide your inputs and suggestions.

Originally Posted by hakunabatata

Hey,
I'm facing the exact same issue.

Any help regarding this would be appreciated.

vpillai & hakunabatata, do your cars run on petrol or diesel?

If they are petrols, then there is a possibility if the issue being caused by a (partially) clogged O2 sensor. You may run the car temporaraily with a disconnected O2 sensor to check if this is indeed causing the issue.

[Rahul_]

Originally Posted by Dinesh_Malhotra

Hi Ricky,

Was that a direct fit? Yesterday, I checked for the new Elite i20's (2016) projectors only and the dealership's mechanic while checking for the same, said the ports are different and won't attach.

You know someone who got it done?

I had checked with the service advisor during my last service, He checked with the spare parts department and told that the headlamps would cost 30k for a pair as mentioned by folks above.

And no, it is not a direct fit, It has a different set of connectors. But he said they would be replacing wiring to the headlamps without splicing. this is my understanding based on the conversation. However, I am guessing you may have to pay a little extra for the wiring too.

I love the headlamps too !!! But for now it is overpriced.For a comparison, the stock non-projector headlamp set costs 4.5-5.5k range for 2015 i20 (Hate the elite tag).

[mavindro]

Originally Posted by Dinesh_Malhotra

Guys,
I have been curious about knowing if current generation elite i20 (2016) projector headlamps could fit in our cars (2015).

Hi Dinesh,

I have got the i20 Active projectors + DRLs headlight assembly fitted to my 2015 i20 through the dealership itself without any issues. As I had mentioned earlier it works very well including the auto head lamp feature. the only thing I miss out is the cornering lamp function.

Regards,

[Dinesh_Malhotra]

Originally Posted by mavindro

Hi Dinesh,

I have got the i20 Active projectors + DRLs headlight assembly fitted to my 2015 i20 through the dealership itself without any issues. As I had mentioned earlier it works very well including the auto head lamp feature. the only thing I miss out is the cornering lamp function.

Regards,

Hi Mavindro,

Great to hear that. Can you help me with sharing minute details of the overall procedure as it happened while installing Active's projectors in your elite.

Also, it would be really helpful of you if you could share your number with me. I'd want to connect with you over a call or whatsapp.

[hakunabatata]

Originally Posted by RSR

vpillai & hakunabatata, do your cars run on petrol or diesel?

If they are petrols, then there is a possibility if the issue being caused by a (partially) clogged O2 sensor. You may run the car temporaraily with a disconnected O2 sensor to check if this is indeed causing the issue.

Hey, I have a petrol Asta Model.

How do i go about disconnecting the O2 sensor? I'm planning to take the car to ASC next week as the issue has become more frequent. Will disconnecting the O2 sensor lead to any warranty complications ?

[RSR]

Originally Posted by hakunabatata

Hey, I have a petrol Asta Model.

How do i go about disconnecting the O2 sensor? I'm planning to take the car to ASC next week as the issue has become more frequent. Will disconnecting the O2 sensor lead to any warranty complications ?

I only suggested disconnecting it temporarily to see if a (partially) clogged O2 sensor was causing this issue.

If your car is under warranty (or even emission warranty), Hyundai should do the needful.

There is one O2 sensor (it's somewhat similar in appearance to a spark plug) near the exhaust manifold but before the catalytic converter. This is the one that usually gets clogged up. In addition, there may be a second O2 sensor after the catalytic converter.

Disconnecting the O2 sensor is a very simple process. You don't have to remove the sensor as such, you just have to unplug the connector. This is what it usually looks like:



Just unplug the black connector by holding the male and female portions and pulling them apart (Note: Do NOT pull on the wire). Run the car with the O2 sensor disconnected to see if the issue still occurs. If it doesn't occur, then a partially clogged O2 sensor is causing the issue.

Generally, clogged O2 sensors can be cleaned (and there are different methods to do the same) without replacing them. But since your car is under warranty, take it to them and tell them the cause. They may replace the sensor under warranty.

If the issue still occurs when the car is running with the oxygen sensor disconnected, then connect it back, as something else is responsible. A Hyundai workshop would be best suited to identify the cause with their diagnostic scan tool.

[Dieseldrifter]

Originally Posted by madhav14

Especially in 4th, 5th, 6th gears - between 60-100kmph speeds - around 1500-1800rpm, the accelerator feels almost dead. Even if I press half the way down. I couldn't feel the turbo at all even at 1900~ rpm. Once it crosses 2000rpm mark, the car jumps forward with eagerness as if the turbo woke up suddenly.

This is not the case in 3rd gear though. I can feel the power coming in right from 1300 rpm and the car pulls cleanly.
I've driven many cars and I'm well aware how turbo lag feels like. But, this doesn't feel like that. It is something like - the acceleration pedal feels dead (or) feels as if the fuel supply has been cut off. I hope you understand what I'm talking about.

After some trials, sometimes I felt the car pulling right from 1500rpm in 4,5,6 gears too. But, my happiness didn't last long. I don't understand why it is happening like that, and what might be the problem.

Can the existing i20 owners confirm the same about this? Is it common with all the i20s or it is my car that's acting up? I'm getting serious doubts on my turbo and I'm deeply worried as it is a brand new car.

Any updates madhav14 on this problem which you were facing earlier? Sorted out or still living with it?
My car was also having same problem, but it didn't occur after reset.

[vnagarajs]

Originally Posted by Dieseldrifter

Any updates madhav14 on this problem which you were facing earlier? Sorted out or still living with it?
My car was also having same problem, but it didn't occur after reset.

I too have similar problem. But my car was fine till around 1000KM on the ODO. After that i face this issue. When I check with SA he told everything seems to be fine. I asked him about the reset and he told they dont have any option for reset. Can you provide me more details how to do reset?

Thanks.

[udainxs]

I have a 2016 CRDI with just about 500km on the odo. I have noticed that when i downshift from 2nd to 1st at crawl/low speeds, there is a distinct thud that accompanies the gearshift. That said, there is no resistance to the shift, just the thud. Anyone else experienced the same?

Thanks!

[scarlet.fever]

Hello all even I am facing these jerk and knock issues in my elite i20 petrol 2014 the issue normally comes up while negotiating speed breakers.

[Jebs]

Hello All,

Is Elite i20 equipped with Burglar Alarm? I've tried many ways, it did not complain anything. Anybody tested this?

[Bubby]

Originally Posted by scarlet.fever

Hello all even I am facing these jerk and knock issues in my elite i20 petrol 2014 the issue normally comes up while negotiating speed breakers.

Hey

This has been discussed on this thread earlier. The first lot of i20s had some manufacturing fault for one of the rubberized part. I just got that replaced (for free, under warranty) on my 40k kms service, mine is a August 2014 model. Post the replacement the ride quality improved and the noise disappeared.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Jebs

Hello All,

Is Elite i20 equipped with Burglar Alarm? I've tried many ways, it did not complain anything. Anybody tested this?

Hello Jebs,

Elite i20s don't come with a burglar alarm or any similar thing.

Thanks.

[mezereo]

Originally Posted by Bubby

Hey

This has been discussed on this thread earlier. The first lot of i20s had some manufacturing fault for one of the rubberized part. I just got that replaced (for free, under warranty) on my 40k kms service, mine is a August 2014 model. Post the replacement the ride quality improved and the noise disappeared.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.



Hello Jebs,

Elite i20s don't come with a burglar alarm or any similar thing.

Thanks.

Hi Buddy,

Can you please explain a little bit more on the fault and the part you got replaced.

I've recently got a 2015 manufactured CRDi model and feel like I may have the same issue. I will monitor for these today and tomorrow

Thanks,

[Dieseldrifter]

Originally Posted by hakunabatata

The problem seems to be random, at times it has occurred when you decelerate to take on a speed breaker or at high speeds. There is a very audible "Tock" sound followed by a jerk and noticeable deceleration, kind of when you panic brake for a fraction of a second and let go.

Originally Posted by udainxs

I have a 2016 CRDI with just about 500km on the odo. I have noticed that when i downshift from 2nd to 1st at crawl/low speeds, there is a distinct thud that accompanies the gearshift. That said, there is no resistance to the shift, just the thud. Anyone else experienced the same?

Originally Posted by scarlet.fever

Hello all even I am facing these jerk and knock issues in my elite i20 petrol 2014 the issue normally comes up while negotiating speed breakers.

Originally Posted by mezereo

Hi Buddy, Can you please explain a little bit more on the fault and the part you got replaced. I've recently got a 2015 manufactured CRDi model and feel like I may have the same issue.

Kindly visit post no. 1214 & 1318 of the same thread by me, for the solution to your problem. I have also posted the pictures of faulty bushes from which this sound comes. This problem is not only related to 1st batch cars or 2014 models but 2015 models also as mine is april 2015 manufactured.

Originally Posted by vnagarajs

I too have similar problem. But my car was fine till around 1000KM on the ODO. After that i face this issue. When I check with SA he told everything seems to be fine. I asked him about the reset and he told they dont have any option for reset. Can you provide me more details how to do reset?

Kindly visit post no. 1359 of the same thread for detailed answer to your problem by me.