Team-BHP - Hyundai Elite i20 : Official Review

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vik0728 (Post 3923247)

Hey Dr.Naren there is some major confusion here. Somebody seems to have messed up some 'Codes (6)' here lol:

Lets get some facts right here:

- Hyundai's 1.4 L U2 CRDI power output is 90 PS & 220 NM Torque (Link)

- Usually, maps offer upto 25% increase in power output which is considered to be within the safe and sane boundaries.

So, considering the above 2 points, a remapped 1.4 L U2 CRDI engine can produce ~114 BHP and ~290 NM of Torque. I am no expert and surely noway associated with any of the remap folks anywhere, but with some serious expertise and technical knowledge, squeezing 118 BHP and 312 NM Torque MAY NOT BE an impossible ask.

Quite possible that the Code 6 folks have bloated up the numbers for advertising purpose, but surely one of the Tuning Gurus on the forum can shed some light into this.

Yes, 25 percent gain in power and torque is safe and most of the tuners provide it.That would translate into 275 nm torque from stock 220 nm. Code 6 claim is almost 45 percent increase in torque which looks unbelievable with just remap.

P.S I have remapped my sx4 diesel and even though 270nm was requested in map, only 250-255 was delivered from stock 200 nm, which is exactly 25 percent gain

hi,
my car elite i20 asta crdi, has crossed ~6400 km after 1 year approximately and I gave my car for checkup at Advaith Hyundai ORR, Bangalore for the following reasons:
1) I heard rubbing noise from suspension whenever I cross speed humps (bangalore is full of them)
2)I saw black smoke every time I rev beyond ~ 2200 rpm at lower gears. This I had noticed some 500 kms drive post my last service when engine oil was changed (probably ~ 4800 km). I am accustomed to fill the diesel at specific pumps and the last change before I started getting black smoke was at Shell pump on Whitefield road. Since I usually fill full tank, and I daily noticed black smoke I had to wait till the fuel emptied and then filled fuel at a HP pump where I usually trust the fuel quality. Although the black smoke reduced it was not noticeably less.

Regarding black smoke, the service advisor has checked system with the OBD scanner and readings seem to be okay or normal. He said he cleaned the dust around the MAP sensor and also mentioned that tweaking the ECU settings (on what parameters I don't know, since he did not explain) could be done for reducing black smoke emission but not advisable if I notice black smoke around 3000 - 4000 rpm. And indeed, now the car seems to be noticeably emitting less black smoke and at higher rpm (> 3000 rpm) and since I am a city user and do not rev so much so often, I hope its okay.

When I inquired the usage of system D or Add-on or any fuel additive, he simply said wait till end of warranty period and anyways every 30000 km hyundai service would use agents from Wuerth or other brands, mix with diesel and enable cleaning the carbon clogs but upon regular use of fuel additives, he mentioned that the piston seal may weaken and hence avoid.

Regarding noise from suspension, he mentioned that certain cars (whose VIN numbers have been notified to the dealers) have stability bar bush has some kind of manufacturing defect and was replaced under warranty. Post the replacement the car's ride feels new and superb. Just FYI.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs_rajesh (Post 3924004)

When I inquired the usage of system D or Add-on or any fuel additive, he simply said wait till end of warranty period and anyways every 30000 km hyundai service would use agents from Wuerth or other brands, mix with diesel and enable cleaning the carbon clogs but upon regular use of fuel additives, he mentioned that the piston seal may weaken and hence avoid.

6400 km car emitting black smoke, that too for city drive. Sounds very fishy.

Regarding systemD causing piston ring damage is the best story I have heard after Avatar by James Cameron. In that case many of us teambhpians are driving car with loose piston ring.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs_rajesh (Post 3924004)

I saw black smoke every time I rev beyond ~ 2200 rpm at lower gears. .

Pretty normal for most diesel engines. In our 5 year ownership of the i20 CRDI, this was a common occurrence. Since we wash the car once a week, there's always a black deposit on the bumper. This despite not going over 2000 RPM.
In short, nothing to worry about.
Check out this thread anyway.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...l-engines.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by prithm (Post 3924098)

Minimal black smoke under hard acceleration or on climbing ghats is normal for a diesel engine. Continuous black smoke is something to be worried about.

Quote:

Originally Posted by prithm (Post 3924098)

Regarding systemD causing piston ring damage

My sentence in my earlier post could have been wrongly formulated.
I have read somewhere (I don't remember now, if I find, I will share) that there is a potential weakening of the piston seal due to frequent or regular use of fuel additives that are meant to clean carbon deposits. What he spoke "sounded" familiar and similar to the article I had gone through before. There are anyways so many unverified claims and counter claims on the net that one cannot ascertain easily what is the truth.

Well as I have mentioned before that Hyundai service uses Wuerth cleaning agent for de-carbonizing every x0,000 kms. And he said cleaning at that interval could suffice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbohead (Post 3924112)

there's always a black deposit on the bumper.
...
Check out this thread anyway.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...l-engines.html

Black deposit on the bumper? On my car I have found no black deposit. This is probably due to the way the exhaust pipe ends bending downwards and not in line of the bumper. Nevertheless black deposit is something I would be wary of and check for deposits and find a way to clean. Apart from the health of the engine and its surroundings, the fact that a car emits black smoke has a negative effect on lookers.

Thanks for sharing, I have read the thread you have recommended earlier and there are different remedies suggested, but there is no one consensual remedy seems to come out of the discussion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs_rajesh (Post 3924004)

As a fellow I20 Elite CRDI Asta owner in Bangalore, I have had this noise for certain bumps where the noise can be heard.
Since you mention there is a notification from Hyundai on the stability bush bar, please can you let me know which service center(exact location ) and who was your service advisor?
I definitely want to get the suspension noise check ( happens regularly on steep incline humps like parking areas in buildings/offices/malls )

Guys I am at the Hyundai ASS for the 30k kms service of my Elite i20 Diesel Asta. Following are the details of service to be carried out:
1. Paid service charges - INR 1600
2. Engine oil & oil filter - INR 1800
3. Air filter - INR 500
4. Diesel filter - INR 1800
5. Coolant - INR 750
6. Gear oil - INR 800
7. Brake overhaul - INR 850
8. Cross member lubrication - INR 650
9. Cobel top cover cleaning - INR 650
10. Air mass flow sensor - INR 450

I feel something fishy about the last 3 as they are not mentioned in the service booklet.
If anyone has any idea please post at the earliest so that I can get it canceled if it's of no use.
Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricky_1605 (Post 3925820)

Get rid of the following:
Brake overhaul (do it only if mentioned in the booklet)
Crossmember lubrication.
Cobel top cover cleaning.
Air mass flow sensor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dinesh_Malhotra (Post 3926139)

Get rid of the following:
Brake overhaul (do it only if mentioned in the booklet)
Crossmember lubrication.
Cobel top cover cleaning.
Air mass flow sensor.

Well I got it all done, except Air Mass flow sensor cleaning
Details:
1. Brake overhaul - I had started losing confidence while applying brakes from the last 2000 kms. Asked the mechanic if brake pads need replacement but he said they'll run for another 10k kms. Significant change after brake overhaul. It was mostly oiling and cleaning for rear drums etc.

2. Cross-member lubrication - I feel should have been avoided, it is just greasing and oiling suspension parts, wheel arm etc. Lesson learned the hard way.

3. Cowl top cover cleaning - I think can be done on your own. It means cleaning drainage pipes inside the bonnet. They were dirty and had dry leaves etc. stuck.

4. Air mass flow sensor is actually a very small sensor inside the Air filter hose. They just spray carburetor cleaner and let it dry. I got it done for free after understanding from mechanic what it actually is.