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-   -   Hyundai Grand i10 : Official Review (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/141699-hyundai-grand-i10-official-review-37.html)

Talk to his manager. Usually the warranty claims at Hyundai are not of a big hassle, but sometimes require a push. In a recent incident, my friend's i20 had an issue with the turn indicators - the relay/buzzer sound was missing. He pointed out in the service and they did not rectify it initially. He insisted on the same and did not give any feedback for the service and mentioned that he will escalate. They agreed to fix the issue and they replaced a control module in another week.

Sure thing Bejoy. I propose to remind him again tomorrow and then go for the kill ;)

Get it done asap. You don't want a short circuit. Not trying to scare you, but it is a real risk.

It seems Grand i10 is growing up on me.

The ORVM are more than fairly sturdy units. Today while coming to office, a 1st gen Honda City driver decided not put his wheels in an undulation which could be cleared by any car having more GC than Bugatti Veyron.
Initially he did move a bit so I thought I will pass without close calls. He suddenly moved into my lane, and our ORVM crashed.
I open the window, opened the ORVM which was closed after collision. The glass did not come off! Electrical adjustment worked as well.

Also, if driven with slightly heavy foot, the diesel can keep up with traffic. Its not that bad performer, but I still feel Hyundai should have given more bottom end teeth than offering top end. Grand i10 can happily cruise at 130-135 all day long without any hassle. But it suffers from mild-yet-linear (reasonably though) bottom end.

The steering concern of sudden lightness still persists.

Dear GTO

Many thanks for this review. we are looking to change our 2008 i10 and i think for me this seems best option.

I test drove the grand i10 today as I am looking to buy the Asta Kappa 1.2 optional version.

I have loved the car except that i felt it a little bumpy when compared to my i10. Dont know if it is the suspension of test vehicle or its like this in Grand. By any chance its ground clearance is lower than the i10???

I have been also informed that AT version is being scrapped. Dont know how much true it is???

Seriously ? I was considering the Grand i10 AT. Is there a problem with the AT version or it is not selling and hence being scrapped ? Any idea ?

They said because it wasnt selling well which is the reason of it being scrapped.

but they still might be having some thing to sell.

The Automatic version, to the best of my information ( received when I was having a look at elite i20 ) is not discontinued. But having Auto variant in stockyard might not be a reality due to lower numbers.

Also, the TD vehicle might have higher Tyre pressure which is rampant to increase FE. The ride quality is stiff and a bit bumpy with recommended 33 psi. Reduce it to 31 psi and ride becomes stable, smooth.

Talk to Hyundai helpline number mentioned on website, I had done the same while I was considering i20 crdi era before settling for grand i10 magna. The lower margin meant that dealer was not eager to sell the same.

thanks for the info, infact i asked them specifically if the tire pressure is ok because after driving i10, I could literally feel the bumps. I too have veered towards Grand even though first decision was to go for elite i20.

I think the bumpy ride is all due to the tire pressure, when I got my AT delivered it was running close to 36 PSI, now I have filled nitrogen and running 32 psi which has made the ride quite nice. In fact absolutely zero sound when driving on bad roads except for a very mild thud every now and then.

As far AT goes I think its selling quite well in Bangalore, I see a lot of new AT especially in orange now a days.

Man, I'l second what you said about the mirrors. In heavy traffic one night, an overtaking Etios banged his mirror into my drivers side mirror at a good speed and sped off. His mirror closed, mine went backwards. Like 20 degrees off from where it normally sits. I was mentally preparing for the worst like cracked glass,casing or bust motor.I pulled the mirror forward with my hands, and voila it just popped back into position, and then pressed the folding button a few times, and it worked fine. I couldn't believe my eyes!

I thought the AT is selling in decent numbers. I see Sportz & Asta Automatics regularly. I have driven the i10 Auto quite a bit, it shares the same gearbox and engine combo with the Gi10 AT. Performance is nothing to write home about, but the convenience is superb. Does the job reasonably well if you consider the class, engine size etc. Only major negative feedback I can think of is, it's heavy on fuel. Gives something like 2 kmpl less than its manual counterpart which itself isn't very fuel efficient to begin with.

By now the markets must be flooded with tons of Grand I10's, hence Id like to know from anyone who is fairly familiar with this car regarding its engine character. I recently bought the Grand I10 Petrol (June 2014) and its still very much in the run-in period.

One problem I face is, keeping the engine below 2500 rpm. On 4th and 5th gear the engine just seems to gurgle and seems upset (lugging). I wanted to know, am I doing more damage by revving a little more than the recommended 2500 rpm (on any gear), or is it more detrimental to lug the engine in 4th and 5th while attempting to keep the revs low. Is this directly related to whether or not the engine is a peaky or torquey. My reasoning is that a peaky engine will need to be revved more to keep it within the "Power Band", while a torquey engine can perform well even at low revs. I have just completed my 1st service and now occasionally push the revs to 3000. Any tips from experts or current owners of the Grand i10 Petrol on how to extract more without hurting the engine?

Mods: Please move this topic in case this is not the forum

I've never driven a Grand I10, but have driven a Getz 1.3 extensively. If Hyundai engine characteristics are the same for 2 engines, then the power band is in the mid range. It almost feels like a Turbo car, lot of lag and then you get a sudden surge once you cross 2500RPM. Climbing a speed-breaker in 2nd gear is an impossible task which got better after going for a K&N replacement filter, now I can do it in even 3rd sometimes.

By extract more, I'm not sure you mean performance or mileage. If it is performance, then you don't have to worry pushing as long as you don't redline every time. If it is mileage, then just downshift the moment your engine starts knocking. A few observations will tell you under which RPM the engine starts knocking in each gear. Once you know that, you work out your gear changes accordingly. Just my 2 cents, the actual I10 owners may provide better feedbacks.

Thanks Peter. If the power comes in only after 2500RPM then its odd that the recommended RPM until run-in is below 2500RPM. If I did this Id surely be lugging the engine which, by many, is considered to put tremendous strain on the engine due to build up of un-burnt fuel & pressure triggered by the computer sending signals to accelerate while the engine is in a state of mechanical disadvantage (4th or 5th Gear). Since you mentioned that a K&N filter improved your driving experience (performance enhanced), is it wise to replace my stock filter with K&N now, car has just done 1700 Km now. Can any current Grand I10 owners tell me if I can actually redline this car (after run-in of course) or is there an auto rev limiter?
Thanks

From what I've heard, modern engines don't need run-ins, but other parts in the car needs it. I've taken the Getz and my rebored Palio to good speeds within 1000kms stupid: though I would not recommend. Just saying so you don't worry too much about damaging your engine, enjoy your new drive. Use your own judgement in taking care of engine instead of the 2500 RPM. No sudden acceleration or deceleration, keep it below 100kmph, that should do.

Regarding the aftermarket filter, you can wait till your first oil change before changing. I'm not sure if replacement filters will void your warranty. But there is always a way out, keep the original one handy and fit it before giving it for service, just a couple of clips in the airbox.