[Samfromindia]

Originally Posted by dpkbehera

The Amaron guy was saying that it will be difficult to fit in a 55Ah battery and was pushing for a 45Ah one. Can you specifically point out the plastic raiser part in the pic that you have attached so that i can highlight it to the amaron guy.

Some people in forum (EcosportRules) are able to fit the 65AH one. However i saw only 55AH one fits just barely without any modifications. The price difference is only 500rs between the two. If you see my post you will be able to see the plastic raiser in the 3rd pic which is at the bottom of the compartment after removing the battery.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offic...ml#post4446799 (Ford EcoSport : Official Review)

OEM battery of ES is smaller than most C Segment sedans which has 55AH probably to save cost. Else they would have made the compartment small instead of using a raiser. 55AH for 5K makes a good balance. If you have a lot of accessories, alternator upgrade is always preferable over a bigger capacity battery. However comparing few hundred rs difference in prices between capacities, 55AH will give me more peace of mind especially if lights / ICE / dashcam in parking mode are running on battery power for a longer period of time over a 43MH one.

Originally Posted by vivekgk

I don't know anyone personally, but this is a Youtube review from India, of a Tesla-like tall touchscreen audio system for the pre-facelift Ecosport, which seems to take over the ACC and other control functions as well.

This looks promising. I have seen people upgrading from old ES to new just for the touch screen among other benefits. This can bring a modern touch to an otherwise solid pre facelift car !

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

So this time decided to go with Michelin Primacy 4ST tires in stock size, despite the high price (Rs. 7600 per piece).

You got ripped bro. Primacy 4ST for 205/60 R16 costs 6800 per tyre.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-...ml#post4624740 (Ford Ecosport : Tyre & wheel upgrade thread)

[ramzsys]

Changed the stock battery today. 11/13 to 9/19, 50k km. Cranking speed was getting slower and today it didn't spin at all.

Always a fan of Amaron but the regular electrician is an exide guy - so picked an Exide Mileage 50Ah for 4900 (5700-800).

[RGK]

Went for a quick checkup and found that the engine coolant level has gone down. The senior technician was able to identify the leak near the thermostat. This seems to be a common problem and the replacement of the thermostat valve is 2500/- plus tax, but the gasket was replaced and the total cost came around 650/-. The spare cost was just 70/-.

Really thank ford for encouraging the replacement of child spares rather than the entire spare.

[Taha Mir]

I've had 3 power window switches work intermittently/not at all or only go down and not up. I guessed it was moisture/corrosion at the electrical contacts due to the recent rains so used wd40 and thankfully all started functioning normally. Folks who are facing window switch problems, try using it before replacing the switch itself.

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by Taha Mir

I've had 3 power window switches work intermittently/not at all or only go down and not up. I guessed it was moisture/corrosion at the electrical contacts due to the recent rains so used wd40 and thankfully all started functioning normally. Folks who are facing window switch problems, try using it before replacing the switch itself.

WD40 is indeed a crazy product. My neighbor jokes that it cures the arthritis in his knees.

Just curious, where exactly do you spray the WD40? On the power window switches, or somewhere on the inside of the door?

[Pequod]

Originally Posted by Taha Mir

I've had 3 power window switches work intermittently/not at all. Folks who are facing window switch problems, try using it before replacing the switch itself.

How did you use it? Did you take apart the power window assembly? Or just sprayed it as it is?

[Taha Mir]

Originally Posted by GutsyGibbon

Just curious, where exactly do you spray the WD40? On the power window switches, or somewhere on the inside of the door?

I use the tube attachment of wd40 to spray in the crevices of the switches. No dismantling required. Use the switch 30-40 times after liberal application to make sure it is spread everywhere it needs to be.

[Taha Mir]

As posted by me a while back, wd40 worked on the power window switches, but not for long. So i decided to open up the master window switch. Here's a short DIY that might be helpful.

1. Start off with removing the plastic silver insert on the door panel. It pops off easily with a trim removal tool. I used a flathead screwdriver wrapped with teflon - worked perfectly fine.

2. This panel is screwed to the door with two torx screws. Unscrew and pop off the panel using the trim removal tool.

3. The master switch is held on using three metal clips. This is easily removed once the previous panel is out. Unplug the wires from the switch board and remove it.

4. Dismantle the switch board by unscrewing 7 torx screws beneath it.

5. You'll now see the circuit board. The actual switch mechanism is further covered with plastic cubes which pop out with some effort.

6. Clean the metal contacts with alcohol and test it.

7. Reassemble everything back in reverse order. I used double sided tape during reassembly to reduce any chances of rattles.

Note: Contradictory to my previous post about the window switches, dont use WD40. It gums up and creates a nasty mess in there. Use an appropriate contact cleaner for the same.

I tried this and saved 3-4k for replacing the switch assembly which is what ford ASS would've done.

Hope this helps!

[spr1ngleo]

Dear BHPians,

The Ford manual recommends using this SAE 5W-30 as engine oil. Googling it, shows it is a synthetic oil. Should this synthetic oil be used from day one for 1.5 TDCi? From what I know, synthetics should be used only once the engines starts ageing. (Pardon my ignorance, coming from petrol engines) TIA.

[84.monsoon]

Cross-posting the below from my ownership thread of the Ecosport sicne that is quite old and I did not get a response to my question there. Mine is the original Titanium (O) TDCI from the very first batch, acquired in July/August 2013, as soon as the vehicle was launched. Hopefully Ecosport pre-facelift owners can help with my query below:


Finally for the first time in 6.2 years after the car was purchased, I sent the car for a bit of an overhaul. So far, it has done 24,000 KMs only and the only visits to the service centre has been the routine annual service, which have been incredibly cheap. The cost of ownership has been ridiculously low! The car is even riding on its OE tires and there is still a lot of thread left!

I wanted the clutch to be replaced, the brake pads and front disks to be changed as well as recommnded on my last regular service. The clutch was getting a bit hard and started to bother me. The technician also recommended replacing the rear coil spring pad and link rod, sicne the rear suspension was not in the best shape. I agreed to this work as well. Again the big surprise was that after all this overhaul work, the bill came to only Rs.22.5K! The Ecosport has got Total Cost of Ownership nailed!

Once I got the car back, the clutch has got super soft like a new car and braking was noticably better. However, the ride has become very very bouncy, esopecially going over big humps. There is a rebound effect, as the rear wheels leave the bump, there is a thud and then one more thud as the car bounces and settles again.

Any advice on what this could be due to? Do I need to send the car in again for inspection or is this notmal when the rear coil spring pad and link rod are replaced?

[Taha Mir]

Originally Posted by 84.monsoon

Any advice on what this could be due to? Do I need to send the car in again for inspection or is this notmal when the rear coil spring pad and link rod are replaced?

This is definitely abnormal. Similar thing happened to my 2013 EcoSport when i gave it for routine service. It was diagnosed the next day as failed shock absorbers. Got both replaced for around 5.5k

[marutifan]

Originally Posted by 84.monsoon

So far, it has done 24,000 KMs only and the only visits to the service centre has been the routine annual service, which have been incredibly cheap. The cost of ownership has been ridiculously low! The car is even riding on its OE tires and there is still a lot of thread left!

I wanted the clutch to be replaced, the brake pads and front disks to be changed as well as recommnded on my last regular service. The clutch was getting a bit hard and started to bother me.

24000 KM is way too early to have to change the clutch.

[Taha Mir]

Originally Posted by marutifan

24000 KM is way too early to have to change the clutch.

Initial batches of EcoSport might have had a problem with premature clutch wear, in my opinion. I faced clutch judder 3 years after warranty expired (at 30k kms) and it was replaced under goodwill warranty by ford.

[Taha Mir]

Originally Posted by spr1ngleo

Dear BHPians,

The Ford manual recommends using this SAE 5W-30 as engine oil. Googling it, shows it is a synthetic oil. Should this synthetic oil be used from day one for 1.5 TDCi? From what I know, synthetics should be used only once the engines starts ageing. (Pardon my ignorance, coming from petrol engines) TIA.

These engines come with the same oil filled from the factory. It's a synthetic based oil (semi synthetic) and not fully synthetic. Most modern high performance engines come pre filled with fully synthetic oil from the factory so I'd say its no problemo.

There's no such thing as using synthetics once engines start ageing.

[spr1ngleo]

Originally Posted by Taha Mir

There's no such thing as using synthetics once engines start ageing.

FWIW, quoting a forum advice on this:
https://www.cardekho.com/car-faqs/fo...-ecosport.html