[arunphilip]

EcoBoost Owners - Coolant Hose Routing

Here's an interesting tit-bit I came across in a recent conversation with a service adviser.

Some of the EcoBoosts built in the first year (presumably 2013 and early 2014) had a coolant hose routed slightly incorrectly, with it not being clamped in one place, resulting in a risk of it rubbing against the turbocharger heat shield, causing a coolant leak over time (since the engine vibration and heat from the heat shield will wear through the hose).

Ford had issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) to inspect and fix this issue as part of the regular service, so none of your vehicles should have this problem anymore. Nevertheless, its a good thing to check for, since checking and correcting it takes just a minute, and can save you a load of grief.

Here's a high-level view of the front of the EcoBoost engine (i.e. the area between the turbocharger (top) and radiator (bottom of image).

• The blue line is the coolant reservoir overflow hose. Notice it runs below the O2 sensor at two places, indicated by a dotted blue line. This hose starts from somewhere near the engine head and ends in the coolant reservoir (the plastic tank with the orange coolant).
• The red circle indicates where this hose can touch the silver-coloured shield of the turbocharger. In this photo, there is no contact, and there is a healthy separation between the two, and this is how it should be.
• The green oval indicates the clamp used to correctly route the hose. This clamp is on top of the radiator shroud (the black plastic frame surrounding the radiator). In this photo, the hose is correctly routed through the clamp, which is why there is a correct separation between the turbocharger heat shield and the hose.

Here's a close-up of the hose/turbocharger heat shield. Don't be misled by the black shadow of the shield, the actual shield is near the upper blue line. Also, the hose is dark at one point near the bottom arrow since my finger wiped away a bit of dust, the hose's surface texture at that point feels normal (i.e. its not cracked, bubbled, or pitted).

And finally, here's a close-up of the clamp used to correctly route the hose. If this coolant hose is routed through this clamp, then it cannot touch the heat shield. However, if the hose is not routed through this, then it might have free play that allows it to touch the heat shield. Gently route it through this clamp instead, and check to ensure the hose isn't damaged. If the hose is damage, take it to Ford for replacement.

So, please go ahead and take a minute to check your engine compartment to confirm it looks like the above. This does not apply to the 1.5 Ti-VCT or diesel engines, it is limited to the 1.0 EcoBoost engine only.

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by satz581993Mille

Guys, I've got this weird issue happening. The car runs perfectly normal. But after driving for like some 40+ KMs continuously with the AC on, I can hear some water moving noise from the driver seat. It starts only after driving for a while. Any ideas?

We had a somewhat similar discussion about half a year ago - in fact that was also started by you, on page 705

Are you referring to the same sound? If so, penpavan and others have indicated that it is a sound that is reasonably common to Ford vehicles. It is a swishing sound that originates from behind the dashboard, like water or gas moving through a pipe.

Is the sound coming from behind the dashboard, or elsewhere? Do you notice any water leaks outside the car (apart from the AC condensate dripping down), or water accumulation inside?

[BB311]

Guys, As my two years standard warranty is nearing completion (In June), I just wanted to know what is warranty on wearable items like Brake Pads, Clutch, AC coils etc. I also have the extended 4 year warranty (2+2), what's different in the extended warranty ?

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by BB311

As my two years standard warranty is nearing completion (In June), I just wanted to know what is warranty on wearable items like Brake Pads, Clutch, AC coils etc. I also have the extended 4 year warranty (2+2), what's different in the extended warranty ?

The extended warranty (EW) is pretty much similar to the manufacturer's warranty (MW). Bear in mind that things like brake pads and clutch are subject to wear and tear, so will mostly not be covered by a warranty, unless it is clear that there is a defect in the component (or if Ford has a known TSB/FSA for that component). The AC coil might be covered by warranty, if it fails, and the failure is clearly attributable to a manufacturing fault (e.g. a faulty weld which cracks due to vibrations).

I've attached the EW pamphlet, which specifies the following:

Going into a little more detail, what is not covered is:

[shivkumar19]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

Titanium, so its got automatic climate control, right? Are you saying that on start-up, the screen displays "HI" (short for High)? If not, what temperature is shown on the screen upon start-up, before you lower it?

Its shows "HI"

Also, you've seen this problem occur three times. But is it consistent - i.e. has it been the last 3 times that you've started your car that you've seen it, or have there been times when it didn't happen?

Not Consistent (Random)

In any case, it appears that the HVAC module is not storing your temperature setting between vehicle stoppage and restart. Take it to Ford for them to scan to see if they can find any errors logged (yep, this is yet another tiny computer/electronic control unit in our car). Ford technically refers to the climate control as Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), so that is how the options may be labelled in Ford's diagnostic tools.

Will take the vehicle this weekend and update

Have you also noticed any other minor electrical glitches? Does your car start without hesitation, or does it struggle to start? Are your Sync settings stored between stoppage and restart (e.g. radio presets, etc.)? Any ABS warnings on start-up? I'm just trying to understand if your battery is weakening, which often manifests itself as various minor (and often unrelated) electrical glitches.

Nope nothing like that.

Thanks for your revert

[Eyas337]

Originally Posted by vijayvelprakash

The vice-versa is not possible as the purpose is just to flash and drive when needed. I dont think manufacturers would provide the option of flashing when in high beam.

Thanks, I was actually looking for the same as it would be a lot easier.

Originally Posted by arunphilip

By vice versa, do you mean holding the stalk to go to low beam for a short period (to avoid blinding oncoming traffic)? If so, then no, you have to click the stalk back to low, and after some time, click it back to high.

On the other hand, if you mean flashing your lights when in high beam (to signal oncoming traffic, or a vehicle ahead), then as vijayvelprakash said, that can't be done without clicking the stack back to low, flashing, and then clicking back to high.

I do find the operation of Ford's stalks for this purpose a little harder to use than Japanese/Korean brands, since those have a distinct position/stop for low and high beam, whereas Ford uses a single position to toggle between low & high.

Yes, agree - I too find this a little harder to use. Sometimes feel that I might break the indicator / headlight lever (not smooth to operate and hear a breaking sound - tak tak )

Originally Posted by arunphilip

If you cannot settle on an intermediate value, and you find the need to adjust pressures - please do so irrespective of whether you get nitrogen or not. The right tyre pressure is far more important for safety and comfort than introducing any air into your tyres.

Thanks. Better I just stick to air (instead of nitrogen - due to ease of availability) when on long drives, when I might end up with varying occupants for multi city trips (mostly while driving to my in laws and my native).

Originally Posted by BB311

Guys, As my two years standard warranty is nearing completion (In June), I just wanted to know what is warranty on wearable items like Brake Pads, Clutch, AC coils etc. I also have the extended 4 year warranty (2+2), what's different in the extended warranty ?

Originally Posted by arunphilip

The extended warranty (EW) is pretty much similar to the manufacturer's warranty (MW). Bear in mind that things like brake pads and clutch are subject to wear and tear

TMP (total maintenance plan) covers the wear and tear as well and needs to be bought separately. I have got for 3 years / 30K kms for 24k I think (doesn't cover tyres though)

[Eyas337]

Originally Posted by shivkumar19

Dear All

Have noticed that my 3yr old ES (P) Titanium having a peculiar problem lately,
whenever I start the vehicle and switch on the A/C ,the knob is already at MAX towards heater (red side) I have to manually turn it down towards cooling for it to work normally.This is the third time its happening so i am reporting it here

Any inputs?

There is a max button within the automatic climate control unit (front wind shield de-fogger) - check if that's ON along with AUTO option. Sends a gush of hot air if so.

[drmohitg]

I am looking to buy the Ecosport AT. I borrowed a friend's car to just take the feel of how it is and if it would suit my requirements. This car is a year old and has done only 8500 kms so far. Now the thing is, both me and my father feel that the car vibrates/jerks sometimes at low speeds specially when you start from standstill. I do not know if it due to the car searching for the right gear or what. Has anyone faced this issue in their Ecosport AT?

Also my friend says that his car has never given him more than 8-9 kmpl in city traffic. I expected it to be more in the range of 12-13 kmpl. Any thoughts on the same?

Lastly can we get the bigger screen they are providing in the Platinum edition retrofitted into the other variants?

[libranof1987]

Originally Posted by BB311

Guys, As my two years standard warranty is nearing completion (In June), I just wanted to know what is warranty on wearable items like Brake Pads, Clutch, AC coils etc. I also have the extended 4 year warranty (2+2), what's different in the extended warranty ?

Unless there's a manufacturing defect, no warranty will cover brake pads, clutch assembly or components related to the a/c.

That being said, having Extended Warranty is a good thing.

Originally Posted by arunphilip

The extended warranty (EW) is pretty much similar to the manufacturer's warranty (MW).

+1

Originally Posted by Eyas337

TMP (total maintenance plan) covers the wear and tear as well and needs to be bought separately. I have got for 3 years / 30K kms for 24k I think (doesn't cover tyres though)

But, TMP is about anticipating repairs and paying for them up front, rather than as and when servicing/repairs come up.

For the time that you've had your car, do think the TMP came in handy vs. paying for each service/repair?

[wilful]

Originally Posted by drmohitg

I am looking to buy the Ecosport AT. I borrowed a friend's car to just take the feel of how it is and if it would suit my requirements. This car is a year old and has done only 8500 kms so far. Now the thing is, both me and my father feel that the car vibrates/jerks sometimes at low speeds specially when you start from standstill. I do not know if it due to the car searching for the right gear or what. Has anyone faced this issue in their Ecosport AT?

Also my friend says that his car has never given him more than 8-9 kmpl in city traffic. I expected it to be more in the range of 12-13 kmpl. Any thoughts on the same?

Lastly can we get the bigger screen they are providing in the Platinum edition retrofitted into the other variants?

I have been using the AT variant since Nov 2014. Your friend is absolutely right about the mileage. I do not get more than 8-9 kmpl in town. For me FE was never a major priority so I'm ok with it.
On the highways here I get 12 or so (but keep in mind that most of the inter city highways are 2 lane- narrow, twisting and full of traffic in Kerala. I'm guessing that it would return better figures on proper 4/6 lane highways.
About the jerks at low speeds - yes there are the occasional jerks especially when gear up shifts and downshifts occur rapidly at slow speeds but I've got used to these little quirks of the DCT and probably been able to minimize it with some tweaking of my brake/accelerator habits.
I would not know about your last point of the bigger screen. Maybe someone here will get back to you on that one.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by drmohitg

Now the thing is, both me and my father feel that the car vibrates/jerks sometimes at low speeds specially when you start from standstill. I do not know if it due to the car searching for the right gear or what. Has anyone faced this issue in their Ecosport AT?

It's a problem with the DCT in Ford. This is a common issue in all the Ford DCT cars including the fiesta and Aspire. After a while the transmission shudders especially in 1st to second shifts.

Also my friend says that his car has never given him more than 8-9 kmpl in city traffic. I expected it to be more in the range of 12-13 kmpl. Any thoughts on the same?

Combination of heavy weight of ecosport plus the not very efficient 1.5L ti-VCT engine.

[libranof1987]

How long is the 12V socket supposed to give out charge, even after the engine is shut down/car locked?

I recently got a dashcam for my car (Transcend DP220) and generally make it a point to unplug the charger from the socket. But I intentionally left it plugged once to check if it continues to provide charge, and saw that the charger was indeed receiving charge about ten minutes after I'd locked the car.

Although I turn off the dashcam when I exit the car, I'm worried that the battery might discharge if I leave the charger plugged.

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by libranof1987

How long is the 12V socket supposed to give out charge, even after the engine is shut down/car locked?

Both the 12V sockets are powered on continuously, they are directly wired without any connection to the ignition, nor is there a timed switch on them.

This behaviour is common across all current Ford models, and I'm not sure if its common to American manufacturers. I also quite fail to understand the logic of such a design (there's been just one instance when I appreciated it, and hundreds of times I've cursed it!).

I'd suggest hard-wiring your dashcam. I've done it on my EcoSport, and used a fuse that is ignition activated, so my dashcam turns on/off with the ignition. Totally hassle-free, and no worry about wearing out the power sockets (either the 12V or the dashcam) by continual plugging/unplugging. Hardwiring is not complicated, and is easy to do.

One tip - you can hardwire a 12V to 5VC DC brick with a mini-USB outlet to power your dashcam, or you can hardwire a 12V socket, and use the cable that came with the dashcam itself. In any case, when you do the hardwiring, I'd recommend you wire up an additional 12V socket, to serve as a convenient power source for any other accessories you might add on later. I regret not doing so, because I now use a spare phone as a GPS, and I have to do the same rigmarole of unplugging it (though I do it only when I know I'm not taking my car for more than a day, I leave it as-is overnight).

I'd created a thread about hard-wiring the dashcam that should help you through the process (its not hard), although you can go to any electrical guy or ICE installer and get them to do it for you too. For the EcoSport, you'd need to remove the glovebox assembly to access the fuse box, so you can take a look at the pictures on this post I made in this review thread.

[libranof1987]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

I'd suggest hard-wiring your dashcam.

Great advice, and instructions!

If even the ICE is automatically cut off a certain time after ignition is turned off, I don't understand why they keep the 12V socket charged!

I'll try this DIY out soon.

[Pequod]

Does use of a steering wheel cover affect deployment of the driver side airbag in any way?