Team-BHP - BMW 320d & 328i (F30) : Official Review
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cresterk (Post 5418072)
I don't understand why you would want to keep the DPF intact if you are already modifying your car this way. Getting rid of the EGR means you are going to cause more pollution anyway.

In the N47 engine, the DPF and Catalytic Converter are combined into a single unit. Gutting the DPF would lead to more smell, increased sound, black smoke on hard throttle all of which I'm not a fan of. Also leaving the DPF/CAT in place does no harm to the engine as per my understanding.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shivam (Post 5418007)

1. Do such cases get covered by insurance?
2. How often such things happen?

Sorry to hear of your woes, man. It just sounds like a run of bad luck. Hopefully it’ll be behind you soon.

To answer your queries:

1. I don’t believe it will be covered by insurance, as it’s a part failure and not accidental damage of any kind.
2. This is the first I am hearing of such an issue, honestly. Are you sure you have the part name right?

Get the repair done, and drive on. The X1 is a very robust, reliable car, and should serve you well for thousands of kilometres. Happy driving!

Thank you for the clarification and giving the confidence. The part is called "Fuel strainer"

BMW 320d & 328i (F30) : Official Review-screenshot_20221010093426.jpg

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgesunnyt (Post 5418076)
In the N47 engine, the DPF and Catalytic Converter are combined into a single unit. Gutting the DPF would lead to more smell, increased sound, black smoke on hard throttle all of which I'm not a fan of. Also leaving the DPF/CAT in place does no harm to the engine as per my understanding.

That is understandable. Here, I found you a thread where some people abroad talk about the same issue :)

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1332487

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cresterk (Post 5418309)
That is understandable. Here, I found you a thread where some people abroad talk about the same issue :)

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1332487

Thanks for trying to help :). I got a stage 1 Quantum Tuning Uk remap with egr soft delete. Haven't made any hardware changes. I've put 3000 kms on the car since the remap. Was waiting to update here after clocking some kms to be sure of the results. DPF regenerations occur normally which I verified through Bimmerlink through the obd port.

Has anyone changed the exhaust mounts on a F30 320d?

I hear a feeble rattling sound at exactly 1000 rpm from the cars underbody. They are non existent above or below 1000 rpm. The rattling sound is a little more prominent if 1000 rpm is held on an incline where there's more load on the engine. When the car is moving, the rpm is always higher than 1000 rpm and the rattle is non existent.

I see three possibilities here:
1. DPF Flexi is worn out
2. A carbon particle has fallen from the DPF into the car and is stuck in the CAT.
3. The exhaust mounts are worn out causing the muffler to rattle against the heat shield.

I'm leaning towards number 3. If anyone has had similar issues, do share information. Attaching screenshot from Realoem with part number and picture. It's number 5 on the diagram. There's two of them.

BMW 320d & 328i (F30) : Official Review-screenshot_20221125215758_chrome.png

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgesunnyt (Post 5445760)
Has anyone changed the exhaust mounts on a F30 320d?

I hear a feeble rattling sound at exactly 1000 rpm from the cars underbody. They are non existent above or below 1000 rpm.

Update:
Got the car on a lift and inspected.
1. Muffler hanger mounts look okay.
2. Tapped different areas of exhaust with hand. Sound seems to come from front of the exhaust.
Probably an issue with the flexi pipe after the DPF. Will update here later after I try changing the flexi pipe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by amidoc (Post 4847929)
Hi all!


On 14th July, the car stated showing warning lights on console of ABS /with warning that please drive safely etc. So sent the pictures to the SA who advised to bring the car back. Car went back on the 18th of July. Apparently the right rear wheel sensor was damaged and hence replaced. I did not pay for sanitisation.

The car was ready in the evening so picked it up. The approximate cost for sensor was Rs. 14,000 & Rs. 4,000 for labor. It was covered under BSI. Car was washed and was ready.

.[/b]

Hi, today I got this Drive stabilisation/ABS warning light. It is not always on but comes up intermittently. I was actually planning to drive to Coimbatore tomorrow but looks like I will have shelve it owing to this error and service centres are closed tomorrow.

I check with Navnit SA over the phone and he quoted approximate price of Rs.10K for the part plus labour. However, he was saying it is better to replace all the 4 sensors together even though only 1 may be faulty because another sensor may pop up an error after couple of months.

Did you face any subsequent error after you replaced the faulty one?

Any advice from anyone whether this is the case. My car is not in extended warranty. Is it ok to replace just the faulty sensor?

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly66 (Post 5470849)

I check with Navnit SA over the phone and he quoted approximate price of Rs.10K for the part plus labour. However, he was saying it is better to replace all the 4 sensors together even though only 1 may be faulty because another sensor may pop up an error after couple of months.

Did you face any subsequent error after you replaced the faulty one?

Any advice from anyone whether this is the case. My car is not in extended warranty. Is it ok to replace just the faulty sensor?

Thanks!

Front left sensor failed in my 330i, just replaced that one and it's been 1000+ km since then. Other 3 have not failed.

Rear right sensor failed in my GTI, just replaced that one and it's been 600+ km since then. Other 3 have not failed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly66 (Post 5470849)
Did you face any subsequent error after you replaced the faulty one?

Any advice from anyone whether this is the case. My car is not in extended warranty. Is it ok to replace just the faulty sensor?

Generally, yes. These sensors do sometimes fail in pairs, although I certainly wouldn't change all 4 simultaneously. In my experience, any failure has been a few months apart at least.

You can certainly just replace the faulty sensor. Even if you did step out with a faulty sensor, the only caveat would be to drive carefully, within reasonable speeds, and without any sudden braking. I've had these fail on me in the middle of a journey (such as the expressway to Pune), and I've been able to complete the journey without issue, while attending to it at the earliest.

These sensors commit seppuku far too easily, don't be worried by it.

Common problem with the F30 version. I have had all the 4 sensors replaced on my car over 6 years of ownership. Accumulated dust on the sensors getting into contact with water on the roads is the culprit from what I hear from my advisor at Infinity Turbhe. The problem aggravated during and after the rains. The sensors on my car were replaced individually when they malfunctioned and hence don’t see any need to replace the 3 which are working.

On a separate note my extended warranty and BSI expired on my F30 in October 2022. Can anyone recommend a reliable service centre outside the dealership network in Mumbai

Quote:

Originally Posted by Outlander (Post 5471071)
On a separate note my extended warranty and BSI expired on my F30 in October 2022. Can anyone recommend a reliable service centre outside the dealership network in Mumbai

In my experience, Redline Autohaus (Jogeshwari) is one of the best, if not the best aftermarket shops in Mumbai. 4S (Mahalaxmi) is also very good, but pricier. Can't go wrong with either of them for general servicing, modifications, or paintwork.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iliketurtles (Post 5470903)
You can certainly just replace the faulty sensor.

Thanks. My Rear Right sensor was faulty. Got it replaced this morning for Rs.12500/- (incl labour). SA was saying (before diagnosis) it could also be rat bite issue which can be sorted out by rewiring (cheaper option) but it wasn't the case.

WOLFBOX G840H 12" 2.5K Mirror Dash Cam

Hi friends, I am considering installing this mirror dash cam on my 320D:

https://www.amazon.in/WOLFBOX-Mirror.../dp/B09HV1TDH7

Have any of you tried this?

I have 2 questions:

1. There is a hardwiring option to do 24 hour parking surveillence by connecting it to the fuse box (don't need to use cigarette lighter for power) and it seems it will turn off the dash cam if battery voltage is below 11.5 V.

Is it advisable to do this? Will the car throw up some errors later?

2. For turning on the rear camera automatically while reversing, I need to connect the red wire to the reverse lights. Is it safe to do this in our car or will the car throw up some errors later?

I can avoid both and still use the LCD mirror cam for see the rear of the car always (without connecting red wire), which will be useful for parking anyways.

I thought digital mirror will look cheap after installation, but this article says it's the best fit:

https://www.embitel.com/blog/embedde...odern-day-cars

and Nissan/Toyota are prefitting it in some cars:

https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/INN...ARVIEW_MIRROR/

Has anyone installed it and any suggestions on the above questions?

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly66 (Post 5480032)

1. There is a hardwiring option to do 24 hour parking surveillence by connecting it to the fuse box (don't need to use cigarette lighter for power) and it seems it will turn off the dash cam if battery voltage is below 11.5 V.

Is it advisable to do this? Will the car throw up some errors later?

I have a roughly similar setup with my dashcam, with a control box monitoring power levels and capable of automatically or manually powering it off if voltage drops beyond a point. Hasn’t thrown up any issues till date.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly66 (Post 5480032)
2. For turning on the rear camera automatically while reversing, I need to connect the red wire to the reverse lights. Is it safe to do this in our car or will the car throw up some errors later?

I would strongly advise against messing with the electronics of a German car. If the objective is to get a dashcam, DDPAI, 70mai, and so many other brands sell a dashcam that offers a similar or better solution. If the objective is to get a reverse camera, I get that the OEM or close to OEM solutions are pricey, but I would bite the bullet and go for that. These cars are too finicky, and you never know if it’ll throw up issues down the line. Not worth the gamble.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly66 (Post 5480032)
I thought digital mirror will look cheap after installation, but this article says it's the best fit: snip

I would take that article with a heavy pinch of salt. It smells like branded content to me, which means they have a vested interest in promoting it, precisely to convince anyone sitting on the fence, such as you.

My 2 cents: if you’re doing a reverse camera, get as close to an OEM solution as possible. If it’s a dashcam you’re after, there are better solutions out there at a similar or lesser price point.


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