[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by sunny13

Any clue what could be the issue? It's gone rather erratic.

How old is the vehicle & what’s the current mileage?

Start with the simple things, check your starter first, since it just won’t crank even with a brand new battery. If it cranks, but won’t start, it’s another discussion, but if the vehicle is old & you stop & start the engine while waiting at traffic lights, it may cause premature wear of the starter.

If you’re out of warranty, you don’t need to go to the ASC. Any competent FNG should be able to diagnose the issue for you.

[sunny13]

Its of 2013 and hence out of warranty ofcourse. Mileage is 46K. I keep the engine running on stop lights usually, unless it a big traffic - non moving one for long. The vehicle was due for the annual service too. Despite the lockdown, I run the engine at least once a week either at the parking or drive around.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by sunny13

Its of 2013 and hence out of warranty ofcourse. Mileage is 46K.

That’s quite a low mileage for your starter to go out.

Check the wiring to your starter thoroughly to check for any damaged wires which may have been chewed by rats, etc. Also, load test your present & alternator.

This sounds like a loose connection or damaged wire issue, more than the starter going out. But you never know sometimes.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by sunny13

...Again, it was the same loud single click (solenoid ?) and nothing after that. After a good 20 min spirited drive, I stop the car just short of my parking space and the problem resurfaces. Only difference this time it wouldn't start at all.. ....

Starter Solenoid gone bad and/or starter motor in need of a cleaning and rebuild, my best guess. Solenoid and starter motor rebuild....3000 rupees for both or maybe 1400 for just a starter motor rebuild.

I would also CAREFULLY check the battery terminals and the battery lead cables to make sure you have good connections. You probably do but it's cheap and easy if that's the problem

[bdman]

Originally Posted by turbowhistle

As an ex-owner of 2012 RXZ, I’d say 63k is nothing for that engine. I sold my car at around 188k and it was still going strong. The injector issue is well known now and it can be fixed quickly ...

Whats the "quick fix" on the injector issue? Pray tell? some of us are still suffering with premature injector failures.. Renault does not seem to have a clue..

TIA..

[turbowhistle]

Originally Posted by bdman

Whats the "quick fix" on the injector issue? Pray tell? some of us are still suffering with premature injector failures.. Renault does not seem to have a clue..

TIA..

Well the best way is to keep it from Failing. From starters making sure the fuel is good and getting it filled from reputed pumps would be a good idea. I always filled her up at only one pump and outside sticked to coco pumps. Other idea is to use Liquimoly Injector Cleaner every few months. That should help prolong the life well.

The best quick fix in case of failure is replacement only. What I meant in my previous post was that the issue is quite known now and Renault is quick on replacing the injectors. That’s why I suggested keeping 50k aside as one injector replacement costs around 25k. From my experience, most of the 110ps owners were also aware of this issue along with the ASC and I understand it will be different from location to location. Hope this helps!! Cheers.

[kartikv1]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

Suspensions/ Shockers were changed only because they were worn out and damaged. I myself changed all 4 tyres from outside though old tyres could have lasted for another 10-15k kms. Only thing Renault SS guys asked me to get changed was all Wheel Ball Bearings with bush pressing which I consented to. Other than that there was no result driven diagnosis as such from their side but mere guess work. Sometimes I even felt whether I was talking to a layman or what upon listening their suggestions (I don't dare to call them diagnosis).

I've got the Duster's sibling Nissan Terrano with the same set of problems which I've faced since changing the front shockers (post leakage noticed).

The car is wobbling sideways with low amplitude but frequency depends on speed (higher the speed higher the frequency). I've been facing this recently and have aligned balanced wheels (all 4), even changed them yesterday to Goodyear Wranglers Silentrac.

I'm planning to take my car to Nissan or an experienced FNG in Delhi NCR on the weekend.

If you are able to resolve your problems with the Duster - please let me know as well as I feel these are same issues.

on another note - during year 2, my car had a bad front left shocker which was replaced in warranty and I faintly remember the car having same issues which was resolved by Nissan after a re-fitment of the shocker assembly and related parts. Planning on doing this again now.

[kartikv1]

Originally Posted by mh09ad5578

7. Final bill was 25k odd, i decided then that i was quitting the ASS route , it was useless as even warranty was not honoured and running cost was escalating. Later had wobbling trouble coz of a loose check-nut on the replaced shock absorber.

Hi - I'm facing a wobbling issue on my Nissan Terrano after a shocker replacement from an FNG. Could you describe in detail what was the issue with your vehicle as I'm not able to resolve it even by tire balancing and tire replacement.

The wobbling is with a small amplitude with increased frequency with speed and gets prominent around 60kmph.

[mh09ad5578]

Originally Posted by kartikv1

Hi - I'm facing a wobbling issue on my Nissan Terrano after a shocker replacement from an FNG. Could you describe in detail what was the issue with your vehicle as I'm not able to resolve it even by tire balancing and tire replacement.

The wobbling is with a small amplitude with increased frequency with speed and gets prominent around 60kmph.

Sorry mate this was in 2015 so I'm finding it hard to recall. How much has your car run? As I've replaced balancer / tie rod bushes at 100k kms and now again at 212kms as these were making noises and had gone bad and caused slight wobble when going through pot holes. Lower arm bushes have been replaced at same intervals and tie rods were replaced at 150k kms.

[kartikv1]

Originally Posted by mh09ad5578

Sorry mate this was in 2015 so I'm finding it hard to recall. How much has your car run? As I've replaced balancer / tie rod bushes at 100k kms and now again at 212kms as these were making noises and had gone bad and caused slight wobble when going through pot holes. Lower arm bushes have been replaced at same intervals and tie rods were replaced at 150k kms.

Hey Thanks for responding! Really appreciate it.
My car has run 63k only. Ever since the FNG replaced the shockers, the car has been wobbling left-right. I'm suspicious that it is due to wrong fitment of the shocker.

Do you remember why you car was wobbling and how did you resolve it?

[88_TANK_88]

Originally Posted by bdman

Whats the "quick fix" on the injector issue? Pray tell? some of us are still suffering with premature injector failures.. Renault does not seem to have a clue..

TIA..

Don't let the fuel level drop below 2 bars in the tank. That is when the pump sucks in the dirty(er) fuel. Use additives and cleaners periodically. My brother religiously follows this regimen and never had any issues till date. His is a 2015 Duster RxZ AWD. That car regularly participates in rally sport events across the country.

[mh09ad5578]

Originally Posted by kartikv1

Hey Thanks for responding! Really appreciate it.
My car has run 63k only. Ever since the FNG replaced the shockers, the car has been wobbling left-right. I'm suspicious that it is due to wrong fitment of the shocker.

Do you remember why you car was wobbling and how did you resolve it?

Frankly, I don't remember what was the issue. Did you do an alignment after the shocks were fit? That's a must. also, shocker fitment is pretty straight forward and a really careless mechanic would be needed to do it wrong. You could try another mechanic, my friend in Delhi got his replacement at Bosch service center and he had no complaints.

[bdman]

Originally Posted by 88_TANK_88

Don't let the fuel level drop below 2 bars in the tank. That is when the pump sucks in the dirty(er) fuel. Use additives and cleaners periodically. My brother religiously follows this regimen and never had any issues till date. His is a 2015 Duster RxZ AWD. That car regularly participates in rally sport events across the country.

Dealer says dont fill too much fuel as it can absorb water.. I used to run on full tanks.. Now tried keeping it almost empty.. Neither strategy made a difference. Thanks anyways..

Injectors are failing not due to dirt or water -- as the misinformed dealers claim -- the peizo electric stacks are failing. Repeatedly.

I want everyone to know here this problem -- injectors failing repeatedly in the 110PS Diesel --is not a due to user issues as Renault claimed.. It is a manufacturing defect that shows up on some vehicles.. I am now sure about this.

[88_TANK_88]

Originally Posted by bdman

Dealer says dont fill too much fuel as it can absorb water.. I used to run on full tanks.. Now tried keeping it almost empty.. Neither strategy made a difference. Thanks anyways..

Injectors are failing not due to dirt or water -- as the misinformed dealers claim -- the peizo electric stacks are failing. Repeatedly.

I want everyone to know here this problem -- injectors failing repeatedly in the 110PS Diesel --is not a due to user issues as Renault claimed.. It is a manufacturing defect that shows up on some vehicles.. I am now sure about this.

Thank you for the information. Maintaining fuels levels can now be categorized in personal preference rather than operating procedure.

[sunny13]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

Starter Solenoid gone bad and/or starter motor in need of a cleaning and rebuild, my best guess. Solenoid and starter motor rebuild....3000 rupees for both or maybe 1400 for just a starter motor rebuild.

I would also CAREFULLY check the battery terminals and the battery lead cables to make sure you have good connections. You probably do but it's cheap and easy if that's the problem

Thanks for all inputs and suggestions. I received the Dusty all in good health today and wanted to share an update.

I had taken it to my regular ASC. He reverted with a diagnosis in 2 days saying its a starter motor issue and that it would would need replacement. They also noticed leakage of a fuel pipe (at the left side of the hood) which he showed me as well on day 1 on my visit.

In all, it cost about 24 K for the repairs viz. starter motor - 13K, Fuel pipe assy. - 3.25K, brake pad (rear) replacement - 3.5K

Added to it was the routine service for 70K /7 yrs . Total dent - 35K. With some pushing for discounts - 32 K inclusive of labour charges () of 8.5K . I did a test drive and seems to be running good. Time will tell !