[mh09ad5578]

Originally Posted by SideView

Can anyone share details about that diesel filter used for duster/terrano 2014 model, has it changed in the latest one? (OEM name and part number)

I am getting an WIX aftermarket one. ( is it any good? Or better ones available)I am trying to confirm that it is the right part been used.

Thanks for any inputs.

I think pre 2015 models use a cylinder type diesel filter whereas post 2015 models use a cartridge type filter. Lots of unbranded ones in the market but if changed every 20k kms shouldn't be an issue. Also if you want to be doubly sure you can source it at the ASC. I just received a whatsapp forward from the kolhapur ASC stating that Renault has reduced prices of all filters by almost 50 percent. Great news i would say for people who use only genuine Renault parts. I shifted to OEM parts long back and usually change the diesel filter at every 30k kms and its worked fine for me.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by hummer

One more catch, it's a III party inspection for extended warranty claims, they moved away from 'TVS', now it's a different company called 'Assurance' or something. They say extended warranty claim won't be honored even if we had crossed a single prescribed service deadline !!!

That is the norm. You have to be regular with your service schedules, upcoming and the ones that have gone past. Since this is a used car, you need to check past service history too before buying the extended warranty.

TVS or Assurance, they work on the same principle. The issue has to be recorded in the presence of the service center persons and it has to be surveyed by the warranty provider. In all my warranty replacements, I just had one case when it was rejected for the high-low beam stalk going bad. I later made a video of the issue at 2-3 different times and forwarded it to the other ASC I got the 100k service done from. They replaced the stalk without any questions asked even though their surveyor hadn't visited them that week.

Another thing is that the waiting time for the surveyor from the warranty provider visits at certain times of the week and that causes a minor delay in replacement. For non-critical issues they hand the car back to you for use if the part is not in stock.

[88_TANK_88]

Hello members,
I have a facelifted Duste AWD. In the new lineup, 2019 onwards, the AWD was only in RxS trim. The one thing I miss the most is seat height adjustability. Can I source/install the lower mechanism without purchasing the whole driver's seat? The mounting points should not be different IMO. Also RxZ has a different seat fabic design therefore not keen on seat purchase. Any help in this regard would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance

[SideView]

Originally Posted by mh09ad5578

I think pre 2015 models use a cylinder type diesel filter whereas post 2015 models use a cartridge type filter. Lots of unbranded ones in the market but if changed every 20k kms shouldn't be an issue. Also if you want to be doubly sure you can source it at the ASC. I just received a whatsapp forward from the kolhapur ASC stating that Renault has reduced prices of all filters by almost 50 percent. Great news i would say for people who use only genuine Renault parts. I shifted to OEM parts long back and usually change the diesel filter at every 30k kms and its worked fine for me.

Thanks, the problem with Nissan ASC is that they dont sell the spares and we need to get it serviced with them.

[DusterBoy]

Hello all,
Mine is RxL 85ps Diesel 2014 Model which has covered about 115K kms so far. Dusty is wobbling on both sideways since about past one year. So much so that I feel like sailing on sea waters even when driving on smooth road surface. wobbles are there at all speeds. Be it high or low speed or car just put to motion from steady, it never stops wobbling. It gets very irritating as seat position remains steady but entire car body shakes left and right at very high frequency albeit at very low amplitude meaning the car does not lean that much on either sides but it leans left-right-left-right and that too at very fast rate. For last four services, I have got done following on the advice of SA -
1) Changed all Suspensions/shockers.
2) New Ball Bearings to every wheel with bush pressing.
3) Changed all Tyres. I use Michelin LTX only.
4) Changed all Brake pads. (Irrelevant)
5) Carried out Wheel alignment,balancing and tyre rotation after every 5000 kms.

And yet the wobbling persists and now SA has advised to change all wheels each costing 15k and even then he is not so sure about the end result. He said that this could be perhaps due to wheel bent.

There is another problem and that is regarding power steering at low speeds. The power steering is not as much responsive anymore as it used to be. Especially after making hard turn, it used to come back to its neutral position automatically upon unholding but now even returning it back to neutral position requires some efforts. This has compromised steering input accuracy on turns. SA told steering rod assembly would have to be changed which is costlier matter hence I have learnt to live with that but I can not live and drive with wobbling. I hope experts and legends here will definitely help me out with these problems. Thanks in advance.

[josephnishanth]

Ownership Update:

I just sold my 2013 RXL Duster 85PS via Cars24. With 1.8L on the Odo, Imminent repetition of Coolant mixing in Engine Oil issue, Occasional wiring problems, I felt the 3.5L resale price was a decent deal.

The Duster (Name: Maximus) was a good, reliable mile muncher. Took its share of abuse, long hauls and stood its ground. Like all good things, the Duster too started feeling weak in its legs & it was time to bid adieu to the game-changer for SUVs in India.

Upgraded to the Harrier XZA+ Dark Edition - The best & ideal upgrade option in my view. Initial impressions after the first long drive coming soon in the 2020 Harrier review thread.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

I have learnt to live with that but I can not live and drive with wobbling.

There's just too much done to the car to pin point the problem. Can you recall how and when did this problem begin? Was it after an accident repair, going in a big pothole, a service, a wheel rotation, a tyre change?

[revvharder]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

There is another problem and that is regarding power steering at low speeds. The power steering is not as much responsive anymore as it used to be. Especially after making hard turn, it used to come back to its neutral position automatically upon unholding but now even returning it back to neutral position requires some efforts. This has compromised steering input accuracy on turns. SA told steering rod assembly would have to be changed which is costlier matter hence I have learnt to live with that but I can not live and drive with wobbling. I hope experts and legends here will definitely help me out with these problems. Thanks in advance.

The Service Centre is just fleecing either you need a good FNG or you need to pin point it yourself.
As bhpian Tgo said, do share when it started.
It could be that the rim has a bend enough to affect the ride quality but not to leak the air, this can be simply ruled out by swapping wheels with another duster or swapping the front to back and vice versa.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

Hello all,
Mine is RxL 85ps Diesel 2014 Model which has covered about 115K kms so far. Dusty is wobbling on both sideways since about past one year. So much so that I feel like sailing on sea waters even when driving on smooth road surface. wobbles are there at all speeds. Be it high or low speed or car just put to motion from steady, it never stops wobbling. It gets very irritating as seat position remains steady but entire car body shakes left and right at very high frequency albeit at very low amplitude meaning the car does not lean that much on either sides but it leans left-right-left-right and that too at very fast rate. For last four services, I have got done following on the advice of SA -
1) Changed all Suspensions/shockers.
2) New Ball Bearings to every wheel with bush pressing.
3) Changed all Tyres. I use Michelin LTX only.
4) Changed all Brake pads. (Irrelevant)
5) Carried out Wheel alignment,balancing and tyre rotation after every 5000 kms.

And yet the wobbling persists and now SA has advised to change all wheels each costing 15k and even then he is not so sure about the end result. He said that this could be perhaps due to wheel bent.

There is another problem and that is regarding power steering at low speeds. The power steering is not as much responsive anymore as it used to be. Especially after making hard turn, it used to come back to its neutral position automatically upon unholding but now even returning it back to neutral position requires some efforts. This has compromised steering input accuracy on turns. SA told steering rod assembly would have to be changed which is costlier matter hence I have learnt to live with that but I can not live and drive with wobbling. I hope experts and legends here will definitely help me out with these problems. Thanks in advance.

From what you describe, this sounds like simply a classic case of worn out tie rod ends. However, this SHOULD have been one of the first things that your mechanics checked. Also, the alignment guys should have noticed if the tie rod ends were bad. Steering rod assembly sounds plausible. But it also sounds like just an educated guess as opposed to a clearly diagnosed fact. I would ask around and see there is a mechanic shop with a superior reputation in your general area and I would take it there.

Have you ever hit any bumps in the road very hard, front or even rear? Do you have any uneven wear pattern on your tyres e.g. tyres wearing on the inside or outside edges? Or, any scalping/cupping of the tread? Front or even rear tyres?

Anything like this in the steering is potentially dangerous. You could possibly lose steering control completely if whatever is wrong fails completely. That can kill you and/or somebody else easily.
I hope you will attend to this IMMEDIATELY. Expense is secondary to safety.

[turbowhistle]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

I am attaching the pictures of the car so that everyone can see and give their suggestions.

As an ex-owner of 2012 RXZ, I’d say 63k is nothing for that engine. I sold my car at around 188k and it was still going strong. The injector issue is well known now and it can be fixed quickly incase he’s unlucky. 4L is pretty good price so ask him to keep at least 50k aside for fixing all the niggles.
Get the suspension checked along with the clutch, usually it’s the most abused part of Duster and I’d suggest changing all the oils. AC is particularly weak on this variant but 2012 versions had rear AC too. This car must be enjoyed on Highways as 110ps makes it a bit cumbersome to drive in city.

Hope he picks it up, enjoy! It’s a lovely lovely car when it’s in it’s element.

[redliner83]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

....entire car body shakes left and right at very high frequency albeit at very low amplitude meaning the car does not lean that much on either sides but it leans left-right-left-right and that too at very fast rate....
I can not live and drive with wobbling.

Hi Dusterboy. Your problem could be due to damaged rear axle bushings, if you haven't checked them yet. You could get the car lifted on a two-post lift and carefully inspect the big bushings on the trailing arm of the rear axle (one on each side) for cuts/tears. In extreme cases, the centre bolt can even get completely detached from the metal sleeve of the bushing due to disintegration of the rubber element.

Expenses will be roughly,
parts+labour=3000+1500= INR 4500/-

What I've noticed is that even when these bushings get cut/reasonably damaged, you don't hear rattles/audible warnings like you would in case of the front suspension, except for maybe squeaks, but not always. I guess this is why they are usually ignored.

Or maybe an "intentional" misdiagnosis helps the Service Centre sell more parts & services to an unsuspecting customer, going by your case that you are being asked to shell out another 60000 rupees to replace all four wheels after all the replacements already done, when the SA could've simply borrowed another set of tyres&wheels from another car for a short test drive. Also, replacing wheel bearings on all corners at one go was totally unwarranted.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

And yet the wobbling persists and now SA has advised to change all wheels each costing 15k and even then he is not so sure about the end result. He said that this could be perhaps due to wheel bent.

You must however, shoot a mail to Renault customer car describing the parts changed on your car without any result. State that you feel you are being taken for a ride by changing parts based on poor diagnosis. Let it be logged that you have spent enough and whatever needs to be changed should now be on Renault's head or the Dealer's head since you have had enough of their incompetence.

Do this before you send your vehicle to them for whatever part they have told you needs to be replaced now.

[DusterBoy]

Thanks a lot guys for all your valuable inputs.

Originally Posted by Tgo

There's just too much done to the car to pin point the problem. Can you recall how and when did this problem begin? Was it after an accident repair, going in a big pothole, a service, a wheel rotation, a tyre change?

I drive mostly on tar roads with full of pot-holes , rough and uneven surface. Pot-hole must have to be the main culprit here. AFAI remember, this problem has started about a year back.

Originally Posted by revvharder

The Service Centre is just fleecing either you need a good FNG or you need to pin point it yourself.
As bhpian Tgo said, do share when it started.
It could be that the rim has a bend enough to affect the ride quality but not to leak the air, this can be simply ruled out by swapping wheels with another duster or swapping the front to back and vice versa.

I completely agree on FNG part. However I am a bit skeptical as I have never exercised that option yet. "Dusty" has been to ASC only.
Tyre+wheel swapping is done regularly whenever I go for Wheel Alignment and balancing after every 5k kms. So Front-Back swapping happens regularly. Swapping wheels with another duster is the way to go but finding another duster for this task seems difficult.

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

From what you describe, this sounds like simply a classic case of worn out tie rod ends. However, this SHOULD have been one of the first things that your mechanics checked. Also, the alignment guys should have noticed if the tie rod ends were bad. Steering rod assembly sounds plausible. But it also sounds like just an educated guess as opposed to a clearly diagnosed fact. I would ask around and see there is a mechanic shop with a superior reputation in your general area and I would take it there.

Have you ever hit any bumps in the road very hard, front or even rear? Do you have any uneven wear pattern on your tyres e.g. tyres wearing on the inside or outside edges? Or, any scalping/cupping of the tread? Front or even rear tyres?

Anything like this in the steering is potentially dangerous. You could possibly lose steering control completely if whatever is wrong fails completely. That can kill you and/or somebody else easily.
I hope you will attend to this IMMEDIATELY. Expense is secondary to safety.

It looks like Reputed Mechanic shop is the only option left now. I would get Tie rod ends checked and changed if needed in the next visit.
I mostly drive on rough tar road surface with full of pot-holes and uneven surface. All 4 Tyres are brand new and I had changed old tyres only to get rid of this problem but new tyres could not solve it either and the problem still persists.

Maybe I failed to state my problem accurately regarding steering. I wanted to say, the returning ability of steering (Spring Action) has not remained as quick and responsive as it used to be till first 75k kms; when on one unfortunate day, battery and alternator failed simultaneously leading to stiff steering. So I changed both the battery and alternator post which the power steering started working again however I could not retrieve the original steering returning response like how it used to be before.

Originally Posted by redliner83

Hi Dusterboy. Your problem could be due to damaged rear axle bushings, ....

Or maybe an "intentional" misdiagnosis helps the Service Centre sell more parts & services to an unsuspecting customer, going by your case that you are being asked to shell out another 60000 rupees to replace all four wheels after all the replacements already done, when the SA could've simply borrowed another set of tyres&wheels from another car for a short test drive. Also, replacing wheel bearings on all corners at one go was totally unwarranted.

I will get 'rear axle bushings' checked and changed in the next visit for sure. ASC guy himself suggested me to get all repairing done from garages outside as they were instructed directly to replace with new spare parts without repairing anything.

Originally Posted by Tgo

You must however, shoot a mail to Renault customer car describing the parts changed on your car without any result. State that you feel you are being taken for a ride by changing parts based on poor diagnosis. Let it be logged that you have spent enough and whatever needs to be changed should now be on Renault's head or the Dealer's head since you have had enough of their incompetence.

Do this before you send your vehicle to them for whatever part they have told you needs to be replaced now.

Suspensions/ Shockers were changed only because they were worn out and damaged. I myself changed all 4 tyres from outside though old tyres could have lasted for another 10-15k kms. Only thing Renault SS guys asked me to get changed was all Wheel Ball Bearings with bush pressing which I consented to. Other than that there was no result driven diagnosis as such from their side but mere guess work. Sometimes I even felt whether I was talking to a layman or what upon listening their suggestions (I don't dare to call them diagnosis).

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by DusterBoy

It looks like Reputed Mechanic shop is the only option left now. I would get Tie rod ends checked and changed if needed in the next visit.
I mostly drive on rough tar road surface with full of pot-holes and uneven surface. All 4 Tyres are brand new and I had changed old tyres only to get rid of this problem but new tyres could not solve it either and the problem still persists.

Your choice of Michelin LTX is very good. I have used these myself for YEARS and years. Rounder and better balanced from the factory, and better sidewalls than other brands.

Two things:
1.) Play around with your tyre pressure a bit and see if this changes anything. You might be surprised what 3-4 lbs inflate or deflate can do to ride and handling.

2.) As odd as it may seem, have somebody also look at the REAR suspension. Bent or broken parts in the rear can greatly effect handling. Been there, done that, bought the freakin T-shirt!

[sunny13]

Mine is a 85PS Duster. Since yesterday it's behaving rather wierd. After driving down yesterday to a neighborhood for about 10 kms with a 20 min stop, it refused to crank up after stopping for another 5 min. Tried cranking with brief pauses, it just wouldn't start. Just one loud single click, no drag, nothing! So I call up a battery guy from whom I had got the Exide battery a barely over 3 years back. Surprisingly, when he arrives after about 4 hours, the car starts without fuss. Tried this at least 3-4 times with success and without fuss. Meanwhile the battery guy checks the battery voltage while cranking, charging voltage, etc. and also the cells' electrolyte level. He finds the cranking voltage at 9 volts and one cell getting "weaker " as he says. He suggests a new battery. The guy seemed geniune but all thr same I tell him that I would rvevert the next day.

Day 2 ( Today ). I take the family to school for work. Car starts all fine. Waiting time at school about 30 min. When I start back, it's starts at the 2-3 attempts. Again, it was the same loud single click (solenoid ?) and nothing after that. After a good 20 min spirited drive, I stop the car just short of my parking space and the problem resurfaces. Only difference this time it wouldn't start at all. So I call th battery guy to get a new battery to test. After more than 2 hrs he comes, but by then I mange to start it again post a few attempts. Once at parking space its stuck for good. I was able to demonstrate the issue to the battery guy this time. On replacing the battery with a new one, the issue remains! So we conclude it's not a battery issue. Now with original battery in place I will now need to take it someway to the ASC and at their mercy. Any clue what could be the issue? It's gone rather erratic. Almost reminds me of GM case study.