[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

It is nice that you are updating your thread continuously.
Have you ever cleaned the oil filter?

Yeah, I think it's only fair that I let people know of major developments.

Ummm, no. Never cleaned the oil filter actually. Or it's been too long ago to remember. :(

How necessary is cleaning the Oil Filter?

[(Alok)]

Not this much necessary to clean this. Mostly mechanic (also at Service Centre) do not carry out this work because it required to remove clutch cover (excluding current generation apache, fz & discovers who have separate window for oil filter) and then to get access oil filter (so the charges & time both goes high). Mostly sludge get oil if engine oil drain done on hot but some sludge remain in oil filter.

[abhinav.s]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Have you ever cleaned the oil filter?

I guess the oil filter will be or rather should be replaced every time you change the oil. That is what i do and it is pretty easy on the RTR180 as you rightly pointed out.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Not this much necessary to clean this. Mostly mechanic (also at Service Centre) do not carry out this work because it required to remove clutch cover (excluding current generation apache, fz & discovers who have separate window for oil filter) and then to get access oil filter (so the charges & time both goes high). Mostly sludge get oil if engine oil drain done on hot but some sludge remain in oil filter.

My last oil drain was done when the oil was hot. So I guess an oil filter will be due the next time I change the oil.

Originally Posted by abhinav.s

I guess the oil filter will be or rather should be replaced every time you change the oil. That is what i do and it is pretty easy on the RTR180 as you rightly pointed out.

I am not too sure how this is for the Hunk. But clearly, it doesn't seem to be a task I have the necessary tools for.

A more general question: To remove the left engine cover (?), sorry, my terminologies are not too strong. Basically, to get to the stator coil, will I need to drain my oil too?

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by abhinav.s

I guess the oil filter will be or rather should be replaced every time you change the oil. That is what i do and it is pretty easy on the RTR180 as you rightly pointed out.

It depends on type of filter. In apache, fz & Res, there are use and throw cotton type oil filter ( as I mentioned they are also easy to assess) but in pulsar 150 HH there are centrifugal oil filter with oil filter screen, they need not to be replaced just need to clean.

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

A more general question: To remove the left engine cover (?), sorry, my terminologies are not too strong. Basically, to get to the stator coil, will I need to drain my oil too?

Oil drain is not required. But why you want to open magneto cover?

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

It depends on type of filter. In apache, fz & Res, there are use and throw cotton type oil filter ( as I mentioned they are also easy to assess) but in pulsar 150 HH there are centrifugal oil filter with oil filter screen, they need not to be replaced just need to clean.



Oil drain is not required. But why you want to open magneto cover?

Yeah, I remember something saying Centrifugal Oil Filter in the owner's manual.

And the Magneto cover, to do a coil rewind to convert the bike to DC. I had read an article over on xBhp regarding the same. I intend on getting it done, not by myself of course, but from Ruby Auto Electricals in Bangalore.

[ashwin.terminat]

It's been 20 months and 17000km on the odo and everyday makes me love the bike even more! I use Mobil1 10W40 oil now and will try Motul 300V oil soon. I have made some changes though. They are as listed under:

1) Full DC Lighting:

The bike now runs on full DC. It's been close to 4 months now and no real electrical issues since. Still the same rock solid reliability even with 4 hours of riding with the lights on. No battery charging issues either. Got it changed at Ruby Electricals. May be an engine kill switch soon fitted from there as well. The DC Lighting required me to change the Regulator Rectifier unit to that of the Piaggio Ape, costed me a cool Rs. 1100. Besides that, the rewinding, labour, 'maget charging'(I know I got tricked) all inclusive cost me close to 3k inclusive of a Philips Xtreme Vision 55/60W bulb. No burned reflector yet and I'm almost certain I'm not going to have any issues later on as well.

2) Half Naked Chain Case:

I swapped the 4kg heavy metal full chain case for a lightweight, plastic half chain case from the Honda Stunner, cost me Rs.65. It wasn't a direct fit, only needed slight adjustments. It is a DIY essentially. Yes, I know that the stock chain isn't made up for this stuff, but this way, I lube it and clean it every fortnight, which the full chain case helped me ignore. But yes, I do plan on changing it with the X-Ring chain of the Unicorn Dazzler that I bought close to 5 months ago thinking my bike's chain had reached the end of its lifespan. I'm not sure when my chain will reach its full adjustment because it's been 7000km since I believed it was finished.

The Chain+Chain Case:

3) R15 Handle Grips:

I always found the stock grips lacking in grip when they got wet during the rains. Not like it used to be as slippery as an eel, but I always knew there could be better grip on offer. That's when I laid my eyes on the R15/FZ's handle grips and realized that they were of top quality. Got myself a pair and fit them myself. Yes, wasn't a direct fit as such, the accelerator cable needed a few adjustments(not the diameter wise) of the part that holds the accelerator cable. Was a perfect fit where the R15 grips would end right at the end of the Handle Bar whereas the stock grips would extend a few millimeters beyond the bar, hence the bar end weights also needed a few modifications, those were easily done as well. I feel it looks better than stock and definitely feels better than stock.

The accelerator grip:


The clutch grip:


The gap between the grips and bar ends:

Planned Changes:

• Brakes: The new CBZ Xtreme and Hunk come with Bybre brakes post the Hero and Honda split for the front and the brakes on my bike being a Hero Honda, has very spongy brakes. Would like to get the Master Cylinder changed to the newly available ones, get a pair of KBX asbestos pads and some DOT4 fluid and check out how effective the braking might be.

• The footrests of the CBZ Xtreme: The footrests of my bike are of horrible quality and especially the rider's footrest's rubber is all pegged back. The CBZ Xtreme on the other hand has top quality footrests and spring loaded footrests for the rider.

• Sprocketing: I've always found the bike to be short geared and in constant need of a 6th gear, so I'm probably going to shift to the Unicorn's 15T front sprocket to make the gear ratios a little taller. (43/15=2.8 vs 43/14=3.07).

The Issues:

• Carburetor Issues: The mechanic who used to service my bike ever since the beginning is no longer working and no one is actually able to get the tune right. The idling RPM varies and everyone claims it to be normal. But I am paranoid about this and have tried one local mechanic and the authorized service center, but neither could help. It still varies and returns a mileage of 38kmpl. The ASC dismisses my claims of low mileage by saying that 38 is high by itself. I have got 48kmpl on a consistent basis and even 50kmpl once. Woe is me!
• Damaged Master Cylinder Screw: I wanted to change the brake fluid on the front brakes since the fluid has turned from red to brown almost. I tried removing the screws on the master cylinder, was successful in removing one, but ended up damaging the other. I have no idea what to do next. Someone help

The Ray of Hope:


I've been on the lookout for a good place to get the bike serviced and I just got a new tenant. Coincidentally, he happened to know a good friend of his who owns Om Bikes, an authorized Hero Honda showroom on Mysore Road. I've also read good reviews about them online. They're open on Sundays too! So I'll just go on a Sunday morning, get the bike serviced, come back home and sleep again.


So that's about it. I've leave you to admire two photos of my trustworthy steed.

[Asif 6959]

Nice review there. I have always thought of the Hunk as the second best bike in its class from HH after the CBZ.
I have personally hated the grips on the HH bikes, be the Hunk or the Karizma. They get hard after a few months and pain to ride with them.On my bike too have replaced it with that of the Yamaha RX-135.

One question: IMO you seem to have the plastic bar end weights. Do they perform any function at all, compared to the real metal ones?

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by Asif 6959

Nice review there. I have always thought of the Hunk as the second best bike in its class from HH after the CBZ.
I have personally hated the grips on the HH bikes, be the Hunk or the Karizma. They get hard after a few months and pain to ride with them.On my bike too have replaced it with that of the Yamaha RX-135.

One question: IMO you seem to have the plastic bar end weights. Do they perform any function at all, compared to the real metal ones?

Thanks!
Well yeah, I too think the first CBZ was the best bike HH launched in the 150cc class. The CBZ Xtreme hasn't really lived upto the mark IMO. The stock grips are just sad, they offer no real grip nor comfort.

And no, the bar end weights are pointless. Serve no function, just 'eye-candy'. I would like to change this with that of the ZMR or something, but I don't really know how to go about the whole thing.

[Asif 6959]

Well the bar-end weight are easy bolt on and for the Karizma they cost under 50 for one side, including the bolt and the rubber washers. Your mechanic or you with a screw driver would be able to install it.

The one on the ZMR are too big.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by Asif 6959

Well the bar-end weight are easy bolt on and for the Karizma they cost under 50 for one side, including the bolt and the rubber washers. Your mechanic or you with a screw driver would be able to install it.

The one on the ZMR are too big.

The handlebar on my bike is just a hollow tube. Where exactly will the bolt for the bar-end weights find threading to latch on to? And if the ones on the ZMR are too big, well then, that of the Pulsars perhaps?

[Asif 6959]

The handle bar are not hollow, they are usually filled with tar/asphalt like gooey material which hardens after cooling.
Attached is the pic that will help you understand the internals.This is from the Karizma. Any bike without bar-end weights can be installed with one. The internals are self-locking and can be easily mounted.

If not the Karizma, i suggest the ones on the CBZ xterme, i guess they are metal.Stick to something from HH since most of the handlebars don't differ in dia.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by Asif 6959

If not the Karizma, i suggest the ones on the CBZ xterme, i guess they are metal.Stick to something from HH since most of the handlebars don't differ in dia.

I think the new CBZ Xtreme and ZMR have the same bar end weights and the old CBZ Xtreme and Hunk have the same bar end weights, I'm not entirely sure.

But I believe the Pulsar's bar end weights also must fit seeing as to how handles are (I think)of universally the same size? Is fitting the spring loaded footrests possible?

[Asif 6959]

The thing with plusar bar-end weights are they are cheaper and in a way better than any on HH bikes.
Am quite not sure on the spring loaded footrest, but they should be compatible.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by Asif 6959

The thing with pulsar bar-end weights are they are cheaper and in a way better than any on HH bikes.
Am quite not sure on the spring loaded footrest, but they should be compatible.

Yeah, the Pulsar bar-end weights actually weight something, quite unlike the plastic ones on HH bikes.
I'm hoping the spring loaded footrests work. Will keep this thread updated.