[aargee]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Any options for improving the front brakes of the Pulsar 180?( 150,180,200(old),220 use the same size pads). I am somehow finding the brakes to lack the bite and feel. The bike is 5 years old and the brake fluid is changed every year!

Use DOT4 instead of DOT3

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by aargee

Use DOT4 instead of DOT3

Using DOT4 only. TVS Girling brake fluid. Will changing the brake line to a new one help in anyway?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Using DOT4 only. TVS Girling brake fluid. Will changing the brake line to a new one help in anyway?

Yes, it did change considerably switching from DOT3 to 4 on both my Rx & CBR. I hear few saying, changing to steel braided lines helps, but, I haven't tested to confirm. It might improve with GOOD steel braided lines (avoid local makes)

Yes, TVS Girling is what I used; I've seen Castrol, I vaguely remember Motul having one, not sure though.

[LordSharan]

Seniors and P220 owners,

Need your help.


I own a Jan-2015 P220 DTSi. It has clocked 15.5k KMs and just went through its 3rd paid service yesterday. Couple of issues that I'm facing:

1. The handlebar makes noise when brakes are applied or when it goes through bad patches of road. It gets unsettled even and is unnerving at high speeds. The service center guys said its an issue with the cone set, and even after being addressed, the problem has cropped up again.

2. Both brake pads were replaced yesterday (first replacement), and the brake bite has gone down significantly. The front brake is still effective, though needs a hard push on the lever. The rear brakes have become useless. I'm surprised that even after brake pad replacement, there is absolutely no bite in the brakes. I literally stood on the rear brake lever and bike does not slow down.

Can experts advise me on this issue? Also, need help with a trusted service centre in Bangalore, near yeshvanthpur area, as the kalyani bajaj service in Mathikere is not up to mark. Is the brakepad replacement at 15.5k KMs normal? any help would be deeply appreciated.

[ArizonaJim]

For the record, when it comes to the force applied to the brake pads and disk, there is no difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4. They are both a type of hydraulic fluid (polyethylene glycol-based fluid) that does not compress when pressure is applied to them.
In other words, the pressure they transmit to the brake caliper when you step on the brake pedal or squeeze the front brake lever is exactly the same.

The lubricity of both fluids is also the same so one does not make it easier to apply the brakes than the other one does.

The difference between the two fluids is the temperature they can be heated to before they begin to boil.

DOT 3 fluid has a minimum dry boiling point of 401°F (205.00°C). The "dry boiling point" is for new fluid that does not contain any water.

DOT 4 fluid has a minimum dry boiling point of 446°F (230.00°C).

The minimum "wet boiling point" of DOT 3 fluid is 284°F (140.00°C).
The minimum "wet boiling point" of DOT 4 fluid is 311°F (155.00°C).

The "wet boiling point" applies when the brake fluid contains 3.7 percent water. (Brake fluid absorbs water out of the air if it is exposed to it.
The rubber bellows that is between the brake fluid and the outside air in the master cylinder prevents most of this type of contamination but over time, some water will make its way into the fluid.)

Now, getting back to temperatures: The high temperatures brake fluids are resistant to only happen when the brake has been applied for relatively long periods of time, like riding down a long hill with the brake applied. Of course, the heavy braking while racing also will cause these high temperatures.

For normal riding, even on the hottest summer day, the brake fluid in a motorcycles brake system will never approach these temperatures.

I have heard of cases where the brake caliper did not release the brake disk and similar heating has happened but this is very rare and it takes a long distance for the caliper and fluid to heat up to these extremes.
When this overheating does happen the fluid will boil. The gas it produces is compressible so as the gas compresses, suddenly there is no braking happening at all.
Obviously, this is not the case with the Pulsar brake that started this post.

I agree with the others who have pointed out, new brakes need breaking in. They do not have their full grip until this has happened so if the scooter, motorcycle or car is new, or if the brake pads have been replaced, ride/drive carefully so you won't need to stop quickly.

Ride safe.

[Savitar]

Originally Posted by LordSharan

1. The handlebar makes noise when brakes are applied or when it goes through bad patches of road. It gets unsettled even and is unnerving at high speeds. The service center guys said its an issue with the cone set, and even after being addressed, the problem has cropped up again.

If you feel the handlebar is moving relative to the vehicle, then front cone is certainly the culprit. I have had instances when the service centre returned my motorcycle without tightening the cone properly. Check with them again.

Originally Posted by LordSharan

2. Both brake pads were replaced yesterday (first replacement), and the brake bite has gone down significantly. The front brake is still effective, though needs a hard push on the lever. The rear brakes have become useless. I'm surprised that even after brake pad replacement, there is absolutely no bite in the brakes. I literally stood on the rear brake lever and bike does not slow down.

Wipe the disc rotor. It must be stray oil on your disc and the new pads might require some bedding-in.