[classic86]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Carburator or EFI , you can do it on booth having upswept. There is nothing to tell about and it takes 30 seconds to do it apart from taking the upswept off and putting it back on in your own sweet time. I rather show you the proper way instead of you getting it wrong and blame me for putting you off track with no results. For those who are good with DIY will get me in a single line but for those who are not will benefit from a simple explanation.

Yup!! I'm the latter type.. So please mention in detail whenever you can..

[ricky_1605]

@randhawa - about the CI500 clutch plates, i visited my mechanic today he said we have to do something to the clutch plates holder (or whatever it is called) because the CI500 clutch plates are bigger. I am worried about doing anything inside the clutch. What should i do?

[Randhawa]

I'll ask my mechanic who fitted CI500 clutch plates to CI 350 Electra about any mods if or what needs to be done to the clutch drum. Till then just hold on. Will let you know by tomorrow.

@ Naren can you help Ricky with his query ?

[adrian]

@Randhawa and other experts,
What is the feasibility of an anti theft alarm / with remote controlled starting (on models with ES) on the new bullets ?
Regards Adrian

[navpreet318]

Another thing we were keen on discussing was the change in location of the sensor.If we install it on the exhaust side of the cylinder it would get hotter sooner and would lean out the AF ration sooner.

[Randhawa]

@Adrian- That is very much possible but I'll stick with just the alarm and leave the remote starting. That is just a wannabe thing on a RE bike.

@Navpreet- For that we would need to see what max temp range we get from the exhaust side. If it stays less then 100 and does not lean out off the chart then its a brilliant and very simple idea.

I am assuming the location for installing the ETSensor is at the PAV terminal on the head. Do remember that ETS is actually suspended in air as a node and it gets the parameters when oil passes through it. ETS is located on the head in the path of oil going to the rockers.

[Randhawa]

@Ricky- Got some info for you. You will need 5 clutch plates(replacing your 4 older ones and adding one more) and one pressure plate. 500CI clutch plates are a bit thinner and they are 5 compared to your bike which has at present only 4. If your existing pressure plates are in good condition then you need only one more. No modification needs to be done on clutch drum. Cost of upgrade will be around Rs900.

[diwa]

I was @ the brand store in Chennai to collect my RC book on Saturday. Found out that the new lot of C5s have a new handlebar, similar to electra but shorter in length.

[nasirkaka]

@ Randhawa:

Posting the below query on behalf of Rajith. You know how sometimes its a bit tedious to get a membership with team-bhp. Anyhow, here is what he asks:

"I topped up my fuel 2 days back at a shitty petrol bunk. The bike started mis-firing/after firing badly. Literally blue flames where coming out through the exhaust. I thought my good run with the bike ended here. Then I recollected that even my car (dad's car ) misfired a lot when we filled it from that particular petrol bunk. So I decided to drain out the fuel and top it up at a good petrol bunk.

Guys I should tell you draining fuel from a EFI bike is a pain. I had to siphon the fuel out in that process got a mouthfull of fuel. And the worst think was I had to do it twice because I had only one 5 litre fuel can. I almost took out 7-8 litres of fuel and rode it to a good petrol bunk (firing and mis-firing all the way) again topped it up with premium fuel and rode it for few kms and voila!!! everything came back to normal.

There is one thing I noticed in this whole process. When I was looking into the fuel tank with a torch I was shocked to see the amount of sediments. I know that abt .75 litre is dead fuel in C5 but while running some amount of it is prone to get into the system. There are no fuel filter in the fuel pump. this I know because I have the RE C5 parts manual. (PM your email id I will send it across. Its a 4MB file) . Im sure the fuel pump wont be affected by this fine sediments but the injectors sure will. I planning to clean the petrol tank once I get a spare O-ring of the fuel pump otherwise I might be stuck with a leaky fuel tank. Also I seriously contemplating putting a regular fuel filter because if you injector is clogged it will be a pain in the *** and expensive to get it fixed and imagine you getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a clogged injector. To fit the petrol filter I need to cut the fuel hose so have to lay my hands on a spare one first because if I mess it up I can revert back to the OEM setting."

[Randhawa]

Hi Rajith here is some explanation to your query.

First of all your problem as you said was due to bad fuel. Flames out of the exhaust was caused by highly contaminated fuel. Which after exiting the injector into the chamber made the plugs choke and continuation of fuel spray made it worse while engine was trying to breath. Unburnt fuel made its way to the exhaust while plugs regained their senses and started firing which caused the fuel in the exhaust to burn with a bang.

There are few more ways to empty the tank apart from siphoning into a empty bottle.
Just attach or remove the fuel pipe from injector and put it straight into a bottle. Although its a time consuming affair but does the job if you don't want a bad taste in your mouth. Keep switching ignition key on and off every 4 seconds.
Other way is to directly attach the pump with the battery and you will drain the tank in no time but not advisable if you are not sure and any sparks can cause serious damage or another way is to slowly remove the fuel level sensor and drain it from there.

Not pulling your leg but our lovely fuel pump is a quality part(cost 8k) and it does come with a filter "Yes it does". For that one D day, keep a spare fuel pump relay which is under Rs100 if going on a long haul and try to avoid riding your bike in reserve fuel for a healthy and prolonged life of the fuel pump.

Fuel Pump with inbuilt fuel filter on C5


Dont bother with any AUX fuel filter. Mainly because we don't need it as the pump has its own filter. Any after market filter might leak under 42PSI of pressure and probably lower the fuel pressure by offering some resistance in fuel supply to the injector. It will result in poor acceleration.

But if you insist then go ahead and mess up the system. But please don't even bother with the idea. Instead if you have crossed 10k mark by now then what you really need is a new fuel pipe as the OEM one would have cracked on the outer shell. Its a dual layer but sooner or later it will develop cracks at booth the ends from inside and outside. Also get the two clips as they are not very strong and can go bad. Just keep them handy. Actually I am looking for a fuel line of same inner dia from a car to replace which is of superior quality then we get on our bikes. I have replaced the fuel pipe 3 times till now.

In short keep few things in stock;
Fuel pump relay
Fuel pipe clips
Fuel pipe- better get it from any Maruti car and it will last you a life time.

Coming down to your fuel pump O-ring. You really don't need to worry about it. Giving you a personal example. I have removed my fuel pump 5 times till now. 3X due to new tanks 2x when I cleaned the tank. During all this time it did not leaked even a mist of fuel from anywhere and still going strong. There are few things on our C5 which are of high quality and this is one of them. A fuel tank might leak from its seams but you will never have a leak at the fuel pump unless someone put it badly and screwed up the o-ring.

On a personal note- get some injector cleaning additive(STP or some good brand but beware of fakes) and mix it with fuel. You will get a de-carbonized head as well as a cleaned injector. New injector Rs1100

Just go ahead with cleaning your tank. After you have removed the fuel pump, remove the fuel level sensor as well and just blow some pressurised air into the tank through all the holes.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@Ricky- Got some info for you. You will need 5 clutch plates(replacing your 4 older ones and adding one more) and one pressure plate. 500CI clutch plates are a bit thinner and they are 5 compared to your bike which has at present only 4. If your existing pressure plates are in good condition then you need only one more. No modification needs to be done on clutch drum. Cost of upgrade will be around Rs900.

My bike has 4 clutch plates? I thought a 5 speed bike has 5 clutch plates. One more thing, while buying the clutch plates what should i say to the shopkeeper? I need 500cc bike clutch plates? What if i get a Machismo 500 clutch plates (just wondering because that is also an AVL engine)?

[Randhawa]

Is your bike 5 speed AVL right ? I think I need to re-confirm again.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Is your bike 5 speed AVL right ? I think I need to re-confirm again.

Yes mine is 5 speed AVL.

[Randhawa]

I stand corrected on my previous statement. Confirmed it- you need 5 clutch plates from machismo 500 AVL 5 speed and one more pressure plate from AVL 350.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

I stand corrected on my previous statement. Confirmed it- you need 5 clutch plates from machismo 500 AVL 5 speed and one more pressure plate from AVL 350.

Ok, so you mean there are 4 clutch plates in 350cc and 5 in 500cc.
Can i go with pressure plates too (500 cc) if they need replacement? Is their any difference in CI500 and Machismo 500 clutch plates?