[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by stnair

Naren, Have you read this manual? The link you provided contains some samples of the UCE manual (a patch file). I read the Running in part and it seems Pete Snidal got it confused. The heading says "The UCE Bullet Manual" but halfway through Engine and Gearbox is mentioned separate - (change engine oil at 2400km, gearbox 3000km) and also grease in gearbox

regards
san

Hi,
Not yet, I have the Cast Iron 350 and 500 manuals. Have ordered the UCE manual. The link i posted opens a page with another link to an index page. Following that opens THE PETE SNIDAL UCE BULLET MANUAL - SAMPLE INDEX - ROYAL ENFIELD
The blue links on this page are the only ones which work. The rest are just for information. The running in link and Engine / gearbox links dont open . Could you post the sequence of links that lead to the erroneous info? I am sure Pete would love to know about it and fix it. Remember that this manual is one mans work and a huge amount of time goes into creating a proper hyper linked document. There may be some errors and that is what the patch file fixes.

Regards
Naren

Originally Posted by stnair

Naren, Have you read this manual? The link you provided contains some samples of the UCE manual (a patch file). I read the Running in part and it seems Pete Snidal got it confused. The heading says "The UCE Bullet Manual" but halfway through Engine and Gearbox is mentioned separate - (change engine oil at 2400km, gearbox 3000km) and also grease in gearbox

regards
san

@ stnair : BTW are you sure you got the link to the UCE manual? The cast Iron 350 and 500 are called the classics there and the new ones are called the UCE models or the C% / G% model designators are used.
Regards
Naren

[Randhawa]

13 November the day I got possessed by Anastassia

It's been exactly one year today, 18k on odo and I am doing running in for third time. I just feel it's ironic that same day last year I was doing the same.

I am still possessed and loving it.


Only difference from the day I got her and today is

13 November 2009- A bit nervous, exited, scared, sweaty hands and a heart beat to match the thump. No clue about whats in and out of engine.


13 November 2010- Still excited and jumpy to go for a ride. Only 50km on a almost new engine and cant wait to finish running in. Can assemble the engine with eyes closed. Ears tuned enough to detect every possible noise this engine can make. Confident enough to do 120+ all day long and the few bits this engine needs to be worked upon to make it bullet proof.


For now I am a happy bunny with a bike which is running far better then a new C5 and even the instability issue sorted for good without even upgrading or modifying anything on it.

I'll try to do a write up of my experience in brief and share with you all.


@Ricky- Nothing will happen, your legs will get stronger

@Cooded- I'll put up another video for you to have some fun and compare my first running in to my third

[Leepower]

Randhawa, do you honestly think it is worth investing in a C500? I think this is the opportune moment to ask this question.
I had booked a C500 in September, then cancelled it sometime in October after reading all the horror stories and now I am thinking of booking it again!!! Heart says go for it put the 1000 bucks, head say ***!!!
P.S. -- I have a Bull 350 so I know what it takes to tame one!!!

[EssYouWe]

@Leepower

You know I don't own a C5. But do I regret it: No.

However, you must understand that you buy a bike for your reasons, not mine or Sanjeet's.

If you want a leisurely ride, the 350 is beaten by none. If you want to let 'er rip sometimes, the C5 does it very well.

The CI has a lot of aftermarket support, the C5 still remains an uncharted territory. Even though most bulleteers have no issues getting their hands dirty, with the C5 its more of fiddling with the unknown (Snidal might have helped a bit).

As it is the speedy segment will see a lot of new additions soon. So the speed nut in you can be kept happy with one of those.

Think about what you really want and if the C5 really fits the bill. If it does, I think you should go ahead and plonk down that 10 grand.

PS: If you plan to sell your 350, please let me know!

Cheers

[Leepower]

It's just 1000 bucks for booking in Pune!!!

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

@Leepower

If you plan to sell your 350, please let me know!

Ha ha ha... I have already reserved my CI for my grandson. I am just 28 and still single and ready to mingle!!!

[stnair]

Originally Posted by hexanerax

@ stnair : BTW are you sure you got the link to the UCE manual? The cast Iron 350 and 500 are called the classics there and the new ones are called the UCE models or the C% / G% model designators are used.

Naren,

The Pete Snidel UCE manual link you provided ( Pete Snidal's Motorcycle Manuals - NEW! ) opens to further links for 3 manuals. The 3rd one called "3. The Sushi Plate" is the link for "Owners and maintenance manual Unit construction Bullets". Open that link and the 2nd para contains link to a Patch file which is meant as an online update for those who already purchased the UCE manual.

Download and open this Patch file (fix2.zip) and it contains several small htm files which you can open in your web browser and also a split up diagram of UCE Clutch. The file named 3RUNIN.htm is the one I mentioned in my earlier post - (with grease in the gearbox).

I am not attaching the file here since it could be copyrighted material.

regards
san

[stnair]

@Randhawa/Anastassia

Happy Anniversary . Your relationship has been a great help and inspiration to many of us for understanding and living with the RE Classics.

[cooded]

@Randhawa: Well i think you are a Royal Enfield for Anastassia . You cared for her all along, I am sure she will do the same now.
i tried to record the engine sound using an MP3 player at 60 km/hr but all i could record was the wind. I will put up the sound clip of my engine on idling.Please do listen to it and comment.Feels like there is a part in the engine which is moving all around the engine, or has become loose.

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Leepower

Randhawa, do you honestly think it is worth investing in a C500? I think this is the opportune moment to ask this question.
I had booked a C500 in September, then cancelled it sometime in October after reading all the horror stories and now I am thinking of booking it again!!! Heart says go for it put the 1000 bucks, head say ***!!!
P.S. -- I have a Bull 350 so I know what it takes to tame one!!!

Since its only 1000 bucks, why not book one and forget about it for next 8 months? By the time you get delivery, things will definitely improve as all the teething troubles will be sorted out by RE. Else cancel it then and get your money back.

As of now C5 is in a class of its own. Nothing else in India at present can match the Capacity, Power, torque and long range Touring capability. I hear Harley etc coming but the cost is beyond imagination for most Indians.(unless you are a Yuppie, richie rich kid) Mahindra's 300cc also looks like a High speed performance oriented bike from its advt and as such in a different class from RE.

regards
san

[bradhey]

@ Randhawa, what do you do in life, to be able to find so much time to fiddle with your bike, I for one would never be able to do the entire engine up from scratch....
Would love an insight from you on a problematic gear shift mechanism...thanks if you could help with that.

[adrian]

I am waiting for my std 350 and is currently enlightening myself with topics like running in and all the lot. Just came across a method called hard break in.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/NewBike.html
Is not going to use the procedure on my Machine! ; but out of sheer curiosity -Can any one comment on it ?

[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by adrian

I am waiting for my std 350 and is currently enlightening myself with topics like running in and all the lot. Just came across a method called hard break in.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Is not going to use the procedure on my Machine! ; but out of sheer curiosity -Can any one comment on it ?

Hi,
I did my classic 500 break in with this method( short bursts to 4500 Rpm - 3-4 secs followed by engine braking and low rev running followed again by variation in all gears at speeds up to 100 Kmph in short bursts ). Now @ 10000 Km , engine runs well. A lot less vibration then my friends cl 500 that was broken in very gently ( but that could be a bike to bike variation ) The engine is a bit noisy with a lot of noise from what appears to be the valve train. Oil changes at 20 Km , 500 Km , 1000Km , 2500Km , 3000Km ( full synthetic ,Castrol Racing oil, Ladakh trip) , 6000 KM ( mineral oil - Motul ( Flush , brand change ) and 9000 Km ( motul 300 V factory ester). I have revved to the limiter in 1st , 2nd and 3rd gears , top speed indicated on the clock > 125 with a pillion and cramster luggage( Cant say precisely, had to look at the road )

My feeling is that although the hard break in may suit the piston / bore , the method is too hard on other parts including the drive-train and the valve-train. Added to this is the fact that my bike was run in-in Dehradun in January 2009 ( very cold ) and mussorie ( even colder ). Summer run ins may not be too good for the engine due to the heat issues. Alternately , My L 535 replacement bore kit, in Bangalore was run in without really babying the bike ( speeds up to 80 in 4th ) the bike shows very good compression and performance even today.

Regards
Naren

[Randhawa]

@Leepower- It all depends upon your expectations and riding style. If you can share what is it you expect from C5 then I can give you my honest opinion.

@Stnair- Hey thanks man

@Cooded- dont bother with the mp3 player, just record it with your phone keeping it close to engine and head.

@Bradhey- I just got a well deserved break after a very long hectic life so took the opportunity to exploit it and get the best out of it to get a everlasting memorable moments. But it's going to end soon.

I replied to you on your other post about the gearshift so you want me to explain the whole shifting mechanism and problems it can encounter?

@Adrian- Just don't bother with the mototune. This method might work for smaller cc per piston with liquid cooled engine inline or v twin 2,3,4 piston engines.

On our UCE the ring to bore clearance is far too less and pressure leak is very less on a new engine so we really don't need this process. Plus we have a 350 or 500cc piston with air cooled engine. It generates more heat then any liquid cooled engine. The bearings need settling in as well as the clutch, plus the debris inside on a new engine can mix with the oil and go into the bearings as well as the oil rings on piston and cause damage.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@Adrian- Just don't bother with the mototune. This method might work for smaller cc per piston with liquid cooled engine inline or v twin 2,3,4 piston engines.

On our UCE the ring to bore clearance is far too less and pressure leak is very less on a new engine so we really don't need this process. Plus we have a 350 or 500cc piston with air cooled engine. It generates more heat then any liquid cooled engine. The bearings need settling in as well as the clutch, plus the debris inside on a new engine can mix with the oil and go into the bearings as well as the oil rings on piston and cause damage.

Thanks for the advice Randhawa. I got a link that supports the conventional running. Courtesy : Team BHP forums. (sorry that I dont remember the post details.)
http://www.cybersteering.com/cruise/...t/running.html

[Randhawa]

Bling bling restored

After completing her first birthday, Anastassia wasn't looking all that jazzy and I kept on comparing the side engine covers to the new ones(grass is greener on other side )as mine had faded a bit. So finally after couple of hours search around Chandigarh and almost lost hope of finding the right buffing pad, I found one and went straight home to restore bling factor.

Before






After




Here is what you would need to DIY.

A drill machine
Buffing pad(commonly known as green pad) Its just a layers of canopy kind of cloth stitched together.
Metal polishing stick
Masking tape.





Precautionary measure

Mask for covering your nose, mouth.
Working googles.
Dangri or wear some old cloths if you don't want the mess all over your clean clothes as stuff will fly all over you once you start.

Procedure

1.Before you start, make sure you have working googles and mask.

2.Mask all the painted area on the frame and engine chamber where there is a possibility for the pad to scuff and damage the paintwork. Remove clutch cable as well.



3. Remove the kick lever and exhaust down pipe if you want to do it properly or you will loose some area to buff.

4. Remove the gear lever with allen key no 5 to access the whole cover.

5. When the buffing pad is new the moment you put the pad in contact with the cover, it will shed some of it stuff. Do not panic, its normal. But before you do that with the pad spinning, press the rubbing cream against the pad so the pad absorbs it a bit.

6. Now start with slow rpm and apply gentle pressure against the cover. Once you get confident, you can increase the pressure and rpm. Keep moving across the engine cover by staying few seconds at one point. In this process when you feel the shine is not coming or the green stuff has washed away from the pad then again press the green rubbing compound against the pad and continue.

Thats all to it.