[anachronix]

Oops!

This is very disappointing, thanks for confirming this guys! I think I need to look at the chrome in Black.

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Assuming you are talking about buying one in India, No.

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

The Battle Green is itself not available in India due to the Military regulations, you have instead the Forest Green color.

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Also, Ive never heard of RE supplying UCE powered bikes for the Army either!

Plenty of RE STD350 UCEs have been supplied to the IAF and Indian Army. In fact, the forces are phasing out the CI engined bikes for UCE engined bikes.

Cheers,

Jay

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by JayPrashanth

Plenty of RE STD350 UCEs have been supplied to the IAF and Indian Army. In fact, the forces are phasing out the CI engined bikes for UCE engined bikes.

Cheers,

Jay

@JayPrashanth Didnt know that at all! Thanks for sharing the info.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by anandkenkare

Can we use a thick oil for lubricating the chain even though the chains being fitted on CL500s are with O-rings ?

Lubricating a O-Ring motorcycle chain does several things.

It provides a lubricant for the sprockets which will add to their life.
It also protects the steel from any water that may get on the chain so it won't rust.

Of course on a non-O-Ring chain, in addition to the above goodnesses, it penetrates into all of the areas to lubricate the sideplates and bushings.

I should mention that some of the Royal Enfields imported to the US do not have O-Ring chains and I suspect that there are similar plain chains being sold in India.

If there are any doubts at all, think of your chain as being a non-O-Ring design and lubricate it accordingly. Your sprockets if nothing else will be grateful.

[nasirkaka]

HELP!!

I am in the process of making some changes to my bike.

I am planning to remove the BS 32 carb, but am not sure which of the following to go for?

Mikuni VM 34, round slide, non-CV carb.
or
Mikuni 34mm CV carb with a flat-ish slide.

Any one experienced them? any thoughts.?

[anandkenkare]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Lubricating a O-Ring motorcycle chain does several things.

It provides a lubricant for the sprockets which will add to their life.
It also protects the steel from any water that may get on the chain so it won't rust.

Of course on a non-O-Ring chain, in addition to the above goodnesses, it penetrates into all of the areas to lubricate the sideplates and bushings.

I should mention that some of the Royal Enfields imported to the US do not have O-Ring chains and I suspect that there are similar plain chains being sold in India.

If there are any doubts at all, think of your chain as being a non-O-Ring design and lubricate it accordingly. Your sprockets if nothing else will be grateful.

Thanks Jim. Mine is an O-ring chain and I'll lubricate it with some heavy gear oil anyway.

[Jimmy_u]

Hello Friends,

this is for my TBTS 500 (5 months old) I am posting this here as it is a critical issue I am facing
When I Turn On The Engine Thru The Engine Start Button, The Noise Of The Motor Situated At The Bottom Of The Fuel Tank That Pumps Air And Fuel To The Engine does Not Made Any Sound.I Checked Whether Fuel Is Flowing Out From The Tank Nozzle By Removing The Black Fuel Pipe. The Fuel Would Not Flow Out While Trying To Turn On The Engine By Electric Start Or By Kick. Checked The Wire Joint Beneath The Tank, unplugged and replugged the socket
Please advice if this is The Fuel Motor failure

[ArizonaJim]

Please check the other post you made about this problem for my advice.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ml#post3325980

[Thar4x4]

Guys,

My friend owns a Classic 500 and he is facing a strange problem.

The bike starts well runs well however many times it jerks even at the speed of 40-45. This happens suddenly even when the throttle is about 20% open and the bike is running smooth. This jerk is something similar as if someone has turned off the ignition for a second, or if the engine is run out of fuel for a moment. Initially we thought it might be because of some impurities in the fuel and have tried filling the petrol at various petrol stations however the result is still the same.

Mentioned this problem to the authorized RE dealers in Pune, they assured they will solve it during the servicing, however the problem still exists. We had a gut feeling that the ECU reset would help and have been looking for an ECU reset option. Unfortunately none of the RE authorized dealers have the equipment to do the reset. To our surprise one of the RE service engineer was not even aware what an ECU is.

Apart form the above mentioned issue the bullet starts with the first starter even after it is been cranked after 15 days or even on a chilled winter morning. Thanks to the EFI!
However there is always a dark side to the hi-end technology that old RE mechanic can't do much here.

Please advice.

Thanks,
Vishal

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by Thar4x4

Guys,

My friend owns a Classic 500 and he is facing a strange problem.

The bike starts well runs well however many times it jerks even at the speed of 40-45. This happens suddenly even when the throttle is about 20% open and the bike is running smooth. This jerk is something similar as if someone has turned off the ignition for a second, or if the engine is run out of fuel for a moment. Initially we thought it might be because of some impurities in the fuel and have tried filling the petrol at various petrol stations however the result is still the same.

Mentioned this problem to the authorized RE dealers in Pune, they assured they will solve it during the servicing, however the problem still exists. We had a gut feeling that the ECU reset would help and have been looking for an ECU reset option. Unfortunately none of the RE authorized dealers have the equipment to do the reset. To our surprise one of the RE service engineer was not even aware what an ECU is.

Apart form the above mentioned issue the bullet starts with the first starter even after it is been cranked after 15 days or even on a chilled winter morning. Thanks to the EFI!
However there is always a dark side to the hi-end technology that old RE mechanic can't do much here.

Please advice.

Thanks,
Vishal

Hi Vishal,

Sorry to hear about your friends Bull, classic 500 is an extremely good machine.

I would recommend you take this bike to Kunal's workshop, he is a friend and well renowned in the RE circles, also a member here

Originally Posted by motocamp

motocamp

. he has a workshop in viman nagar.here is the address , he is really good , I am sure he should be able to help your friend, do keep this thread updated once the issue is resolved.

Kunal Bike Works
Royal Enfield Authorized Service Workshops,
Shop no. 6, Shraddha Terrace
Viman Nagar.
Pune-411014.
Call him ( Monday to Saturday)
Cellphone : +91 9881341144

Call him before going , you can give him my name as reference.

Regard,
Jimit

[Thar4x4]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Hi Vishal,

Sorry to hear about your friends Bull, classic 500 is an extremely good machine.

I would recommend you take this bike to Kunal's workshop, he is a friend and well renowned in the RE circles, also a member here . he has a workshop in viman nagar.here is the address , he is really good , I am sure he should be able to help your friend, do keep this thread updated once the issue is resolved.

Kunal Bike Works
Royal Enfield Authorized Service Workshops,
Shop no. 6, Shraddha Terrace
Viman Nagar.
Pune-411014.
Call him ( Monday to Saturday)
Cellphone : +91 9881341144

Call him before going , you can give him my name as reference.

Regard,
Jimit

Hi Jimmy,

Thanks for information, yes I know Kunal from Jeep circle so we will visit his place in this week itself.


Thanks,
Vishal

[ArizonaJim]

Thar4x4

Shortly after buying my FI 500cc RE I noticed similar problems.
I posted my issue on the US Royal Enfield website and it was suggested that the problem was with the twin electrode Bosch spark plug the factory installs in the new bikes.

I changed the sparkplug to the NGK BPR6ES they suggested and never had the problem again.

If your friends bike is a twin spark, I'm not sure what the secondary spark plug replacement would be but I installed this sparkplug in the primary spark plug hole on the left side of the engine. It replaced the BOSCH WR7DDC4.

As a related story: After putting over 12,000 miles (19350 km) on my bike I was curious about the Bosch plugs effect on my bikes running so I replaced the NGK plug with the old, almost unused, Bosch.
Although the older sparkplug didn't seem to cause the temporary power losses in my by now, well broken in engine, the fuel mileage did suffer.
Two tankfuls with the Bosch reduced my fuel mileage 18 percent. Replacing the Bosch with the old NGK plug restored the fuel mileage to its former numbers.

By the way, the NGK BPR6ES sparkplug seems to come in two different forms. One of them has a screwed on removable wiring connector. The other one does not.
The RE needs to have the screw on connector which must be removed for the high tension spark plug cap to slip on to.

[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Forget about ABS! Atleast they should start by making the brakes better. A bike weighing close to 200kilos needs some serious stopping power to handle the momentum it generates! One of the primary reasons why I sold my TBTS.

Serious stopping power needs seriously good tires. The OEM tires tend to be hard compound tires( to improve tire life) and do not have a very aggressive tread pattern( That is more suited to our muddy / dusty roads). I run a Michelin Sirac 120/70 x 18 rear and a Pirelli scorpion 100/90 x 18 front. Trust me, the braking is superb.
The brakes do need adjustment ( including rear brake cam lever angle adjustment and front brake bleeding to remove all air periodically )to extract the maximum friction. Check out this video but make sure to use nylock nuts instead.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHRm_t_8DYE

The bike does have amazing though dated design ( Brit Boffins rule) but apparently no one knows why some features are designed the way they are and the company re-engineers those features out of the bike in many cases, losing out the innovative design.

A lot of people complain about poor rear braking and it is better to learn to use the front brakes ( since most of the stopping power of a bike is from the front brakes) and use down shifting with engine braking to control speeds than depend on the rear brakes. Remember that using a good synthetic brake fluid and keeping the calipers / piston assemblies clean is of vital importance( specially after the monsoons).
Add to that the high tire pressures that riders use( increases fuel efficiency) reducing braking efficiency and you begin to understand why people complain about brakes( I run 20 psi on the front and 26 psi on the rear, mostly single).

Regards
Naren

[sgmitr13]

Originally Posted by hexanerax

Serious stopping power needs seriously good tires. The OEM tires tend to be hard compound tires( to improve tire life) and do not have a very aggressive tread pattern( That is more suited to our muddy / dusty roads).....
Regards
Naren

I would give a serious thought. I sometime feel my rear tire sliding (kind of punctured tire feeling) fooling myself to pullover and check for flats.

For C500 series, the front is 19" and rear is 18". Any recommendations?

As for the brakes I realized sooner that the rear doesn't hold up at all. Started using both Front and Rear brakes simultaneously.

Also, I want to check if there is a possibility to fit a fuel lock? Someone attempted to steal it when I was out of station. The fuel hose was found loose and noticed only when I started it, the fuel was kind of spraying from the loosely connected hose.

[azm@bpl]

Well since we are discussing tyres here, I want to know what would be the effect on handling and ride quality if the tyre size of Thunderbird is reduced from 18" to 16" or 15" at rear and 19" to 17" at the front? Will it make the bike more stable?