[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

When you will open the the LHS chamber, inspect the shaft also for any signs of damage. Just correcting myself, its not the seal on RHS chamber. It's the Chamber gasket you need to replace once you open up the RHS chamber.

If there is any damage to the front forks then you will have handling issues or leaking issues only.

Correct volume for each fork is 195ml and if over filled then it will become hard and it will leak sooner or later.

I always asks the mechanic to replace the gaskets when the crank case is opened. I have a strong dislike for the paste like sealant some mechanics use.

No leaks from the forks till now. So, I guess my forks are okay. I will ask them to fill 195ml to each.

Thanks a lot Randhava.

[adises]

It's been a while since I last posted anything, mostly because my bike has had almost no problems for the past few months.

After all the batteries and parts I replaced in my quest to solve the battery drain issue, it turns out the source was a frayed horn wire and not all the other 'educated guesses' that I took over the past 2 years. My horn wire used to pass between the clamp that holds the crash guard in place, at some point of time the wire insulation broke at that point and came in contact with the frame, hence the battery drain.

After getting the wire spliced and insulated using electrical tape I haven't faced a single issue with the bike. I highly recommend other people get wires routed from the outside if they too have anything passing between the crash guard clamp.

I try not to think of all the money I wasted due to such a small issue.

[Shakensoul]

Have a question for the delhites or members who have got custom seats...who offers better quality with VFM..Khajanchi or Chawla ? Looking to order some custom seats but will have to place order on phone, so cannot check quality

[adises]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

After plonking in the carb, bike is been running like any other bull, without any hassles or troubles.

Hi Nasirkaka,

I wanted to know how much it cost for you to convert the EFI system to carb, have you replaced the electricals completely and removed the ecu? It would be great if you could put down a detailed post on the entire process. I asked my mechanic here, he said it could be done but has never attempted it before - I would be his experimental test subject so to speak

Youtube showed a few people who used this kit - AMAL CARBURETTOR CONVERSION KIT (EFI MODELS) by Hitchcocks. At a whooping 40k (excluding postage) the price is quit extreme

[sudipta]

I will be going for a oil change soon on my RE Classic Chrome (UCE 500). I found the following information from Shell India website. I will go with the 15W-50 but the other grades seems to be API-SM and JASO-MA2 (instead API-SL and JASO-MA as per the manual). Please let me know if you think I can go ahead with this engine oil and if there will be any issue apart from the extra price.

[slicks]

mine came home last saturday

[ArizonaJim]

sudipta
You may already know this but the JASO requirements were set up by the Japanese to assure a high level of oil quality specifically for motorcycles which use their engine oil for lubricating the transmission gears and which use the oil to lubricate the clutch plates (wet clutch).

Many of the oils made for 4 cycle automobile engines are designed to provide high fuel economy by adding friction modifiers which can cause a improvement in the mileage a car will deliver but these same modifiers can cause a motorcycle clutch to slip.
Also, in the interest of preventing damage to the catalytic converters in autos several of the additives like phosphorous (which is good for gear lubrication) have been reduced.
Both of these make automotive oils unsuitable for use in motorcycles.

To give a more definitive designation, the former JASO "MA" rating for clutch plate friction (both static and dynamic) has been divided into two ratings. MA1 and MA2.
Previously a oil that met the old MA requirement could have a static friction index of 1.25 to 2.50 with the 1.25 being more apt to slip than a higher value.

With the new ratings the MA1 static friction index is 1.25 to 1.70. The MA2 static friction index is 1.71 to 2.50.
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV1105.pdf

Put in simpler terms, the MA2 is within the old MA requirements and is more suitable for wet plate clutches than the MA1.

The API SM and SN ratings are still suitable for 4 cycle motorcycles but IMO if you can find some SL rated oil its higher phosphorous content would be better for your transmission gears where the high pressure loading of the teeth make that grade more useful.

Another oil type that works well in 4 cycle UCE motorcycle engines is the better diesel engine oils that meet the API CL4 and CJ4 ratings.
These oils are not tested per JASO but they do not contain the friction reducers that can cause clutch slippage and they do contain high amounts of the high pressure lubricant additives like phosphorous.

The bottom line is if the oil meets any of the JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 and it is specifically a 4 cycle Motorcycle Oil it will work fine.

[raghu.t.k]

Originally Posted by SHAHBAAZ

Can anyone guide me in getting a specific polish so as to clean the engine cover, forks and wheel hubs. Its been 3 months from the date of purchase and these have gone dull and some white spots are visible compared to other new RE350 classics...... Basically they are getting oxidized due to environment.

Did this get cleaned up, and any preventive spray that can be used(dont want to use the WD 40)?

As suggested by @Randhawa the 3M paste will clean it, but with the monsoon in, need some solution to prevent it in the first place. Would be good if this can be applied to Chrome as well.

[nasirkaka]

I wanted to know how much it cost for you to convert the EFI system to carb, have you replaced the electricals completely and removed the ecu? It would be great if you could put down a detailed post on the entire process. I asked my mechanic here, he said it could be done but has never attempted it before - I would be his experimental test subject so to speak

Youtube showed a few people who used this kit - AMAL CARBURETTOR CONVERSION KIT (EFI MODELS) by Hitchcocks. At a whooping 40k (excluding postage) the price is quit extreme

Sorry, was away at my hometown for a couple of weeks so could not reply.
I got the conversion done at impulse and it costed around 15k, which i think is high. later i realised that all in all it should not cost more then 8-10k. Do not remember the exact details, but its been shared on this thread as well as the one BCMT. the conversion dome here is very similar to amal carburettor conversion kit, except here they use BS32 carb. you could also explore the possibility of integrating the new bullet 500 fuel feeding system on the C5.
Whats your reason for conversion? if efi is performing well, then might as well stick with it and save money


Guys, its time to change my front tyre. its the stock one and lasted 40,000+ kms. Any recommendation on the front tyre? i am on the 18" front setup. Also, i am getting the delivery of ktm 390 this coming week. so pretty excited about it.

[SHAHBAAZ]

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Did this get cleaned up, and any preventive spray that can be used(dont want to use the WD 40)?

As suggested by @Randhawa the 3M paste will clean it, but with the monsoon in, need some solution to prevent it in the first place. Would be good if this can be applied to Chrome as well.

Raghu, one of my friend has used it and it is a bit effective, but one more product that I came across is Silvo. This costs around Rs.350/- to 450/- so planning to order it online.

[azm@bpl]

i just have got my new TBTS 500 delivered and have clocked 200 kms. the fuel pump makes a humming noise when the bike is running and for a brief time when ignition is switched on. is this normal or should i get it checked?

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by azm@bpl

i just have got my new TBTS 500 delivered and have clocked 200 kms. the fuel pump makes a humming noise when the bike is running and for a brief time when ignition is switched on. is this normal or should i get it checked?

Totally normal. Listen to the noise when you switch on the car near the rear seat. They make this hissing noise too. Its the fuel Pump.

[jundi]

Finally! I am scheduled to get my DS by 2nd week of Nov.


I realise that the new RE plant is churning out better quality motorcycles, if thats the case, is there anyway for me to figure out from which plant my DS will be coming from.

My dealer (St Mary's Motors, Kochi) says DS models are coming in from both factories and there is no way to find out which factory a particular motorcycle is coming from.

[azm@bpl]

bikes from the new factory have different engine and chassis numbers. btw i am not aware that DS is being manufactured at the new plant as its waiting time is still longer than TB500

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by azm@bpl

bikes from the new factory have different engine and chassis numbers. btw i am not aware that DS is being manufactured at the new plant as its waiting time is still longer than TB500

The Bullet Standard 500 is being manufactured at the new factory only.