Team-BHP - The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Any 15-50 or 20-50 weight Semi Synthetic or full Synthetic that meets the requirements of JASO MA.

Because the UCE powered Royal Enfields uses the oil for lubricating the engine, the clutch and the transmission it is important that this JASO MA is met.

The JASO MA requirement assures the oil will not cause problems like clutch slipping which can happen with oils that do not meet it.

The 50 weight part of the viscosity index gives the oil the ability to withstand the high sliding pressures between the gears in the transmission as well as cope with the higher temperatures often present in an air cooled engine.
The 15 or 20 weight part of the viscosity index will allow rapid pressurization and lubrication while the engine is still cold or cool during the first start of the day.

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay4587 (Post 3135158)

At 3700KMs on Odo i am planning to shift from Royal Enfield engine oil before i go fully synthetic way post 5K kms.

What grade and brand of oil mineral/Semi Synthetic would be best suited for CL5

15W50 Motul 3000T is what RE offers as OEM synthetic.
it is available only in 1 ltr pack; each with an MRP of INR 286.

Wait till the 10k service if you do long distance touring. This is what the mechanics say and I have no logic for the recommendation.

You can try Schaeffer oil. It's para - synthetic, paraffin based oil. Costs 1100/liter. I know some well known rider groups have done really long route rides on this oil and vouch for it. I am using it in my 8 months /24000 kms old Classic chrome for the last 2000 kms and it feels nice. It's too early for me to say if it's better than Motul. Before Schaeffer , i used to use only Motul on my Bullet and it was good. You can easily do 6000 kms on Motul as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay4587 (Post 3135179)

3000T is Mineral
300V is FS.
Any other good oils in this grade?

My bad; should have said mineral.

Actually, the riding pattern should decide the decision to switch to mineral vs synthetic.
9k kms on the synth will be too long a duration at least for me. Plus with long distance touring and zipping; I Getthe oil changed after every 1200-1500 km long ride.

Quote:

Originally Posted by akshay4587 (Post 3137877)

My Primary usage is touring only.
I change oil pretty often in Air cooled engines,so i was looking for something better than 3000T till i go FS way.Looked around in the market,strange that i did not come across any 15W 50 Motorcycle oil,i think even 5W 50 will do.
Is Mobil 1 racing 5W 50 available in india?

Here you go - http://www.goforkrp.com/index.php?la...e&Id=538704868
Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated to Kaulsons and neither have I used any of their services. Have only heard about them from people.

if you change oil pretty often like I do then stick to mineral. Synth cost may not be worth it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninja75 (Post 3143886)

Hi,

I've a query - of late the revs of my engine have gone up by itself. The idling is at a very high rev. In normal carb engines I could easily bring down the rev's at idling by twisting a screw. How do I set the idling rpm in the new EFI CS DS500? I am under the impression that the ECU takes full control. How do I tell the damn thing to slow down:)

There are multiple touch points in the EFI component which can be used to reduce the idling rpm. But IMHO I suggest you ride in to one of RE ASC and get it checked and corrected. It's like a running job for them and will take only couple of minutes.

Ninja75
First I must point out that the new fuel injected engines are designed to idle at 850-1250 rpm.
1250 rpm will sound rather fast to anyone familiar with the older Royal Enfields but it is considered normal.

The engine should never be adjusted to run slower than 850 rpm because this is very close to the speed that engages the automatic compression release on the exhaust cam. If this device is engaged a loud clicking sound will be very noticeable.

Under NO circumstances should you turn any of the screws on the outside of the throttle body except for the one I am about to mention.

If you look at the top of the throttle body you will see a large hole. This hole is about 12mm in diameter.
Down at the bottom of this hole is a large slotted brass screw. This is the idle speed adjustment screw and it adjusts the amount of air that flows thru the throttle body when the throttle is closed.

If you turn this screw clockwise the idle speed will be reduced.
If you turn this screw counterclockwise the idle speed will be increased.

If gaining access to this screw is difficult you can loosen the clamps that hold the throttle body to the engine manifold and the air supply hose and rotate the top a bit outward. Lightly tighten the clamps while running the engine and adjusting the idle speed.
When you have finished, again loosen the clamps and rotate the throttle body back to the position that it was in before you started. Then, re-tighten the clamps.

As I mentioned, these new fuel injected engines are not made to run at the slow speeds the old Iron Barrel or AVL can run at so they will never give the same thump..thump..thump that everyone remembers from the past.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim (Post 3144466)

Hi Jim, thanks a lot for your valuable information. I never rode an older bullet so that saves me from the confusion. Can you send me a snapshot of the adjustment screw on the throttle body? I'll reserve this knowledge treasure for future use. I take your advice - will get it adjusted at the Service center. Thank you once again

Hi Folks,

Need some advise!

I've not been able to take my buddy C500 out for a ride in over two weeks. The bike is about a year and three months old, only clocked about 9k kms on the ODO. I realized I wasn't doing any justice to the bike, :Frustrati so decided to take it out for ride to my office last Thursday. Wiped the bike clean, cajoled it for not being able to take it out (I'm sure you'll understand what I mean here!), switched on the ignition, waited for the orange glow to go off and pressed the electric started switch! Grrrr, grrrr and more grrr was the only sound I could hear. Realized the battery had died down and decided to kick-start. Luckily at the second kick the bike slowly started to come to life! Felt really bad and happy at the same time, bad because I was not doing justice to bike but happy because it obliged to start up at the second kick.

I didn't expect the battery to die down or rather lose juice just for not starting the bike for two weeks! Here is what I wanted your advise on:

1. Is this normal for the battery to die down for not using the bike in two weeks?
2. Should I just take it to the nearest RE Service Center and get the battery checked or should I replace it?
3. Due to work timings and other personal commitments I've not been able to take the bike out for any rides, now there is a possibility that I might travel on official work and may not be able to take the bike out for 2 weeks to a month. How do I handle such situations of the battery losing power if I've not been able to use the bike for about a month or more if a situation arises?

Please help! please:

Thanks,
Si1ver0ne