[nasirkaka]

guys.. here is a rough illustration of a fairing on C5.

PS its just a cosmetic add-on to the bike, and would help a bit in deflecting wind at higher speeds on the highway.

[epvineesh]

Guys ,Its been a while for me since i followed this thread.

I have a serious issue with my C5,where the rear brakes get jammed out of no where.I took it to the service center in Banaswadi,Bangalore,Sri manjunatha garage.

It began like this,When ever i brake a bit hard on the rear brakes i hear a large squeaking noise,as if the brake liner is out or leather and its metal to metal contact,between the brake liner/shoe and the drum.

The next day i was on my way to work,and stopped at a signal while shifting to 1st gear,the rear brake jammed for good now,keep in mind that the bull is completely at a halt and immovable,and had to push the vehicle in reverse to get to a corner,phew that was a Herculean task...and also taking into consideration the danger involved,there was a Fortuner that almost hit me from behind as his natural instincts would be that I'm getting to roll at the signal.
So I called up the service center,explained the issue,he came as the bull was broken down,found that the outer chain sprocket where the brake shoe is fixed,where the brake lever connects,that bolt is bend,so we drove with only front brakes and got tht replaced.

After 2 days the same issue occurs,and this time they found that outer sprocket bolt is bend again,so they will need to change the whole swing arm, I was like Wooh... that is a huge defect part thats need to be replaced.

Thanks to the service guys,they replaced the swing arm which i was satisfied with as I was still with in warranty,it cost me very minimal.

After the swing arm replacement,I did not experience and brake jamming up issues,but however,every time i press the rear brakes a bit harder than normal,I hear the same squeaking sound (metal to metal) and the vibration,The decibel is so high that the fellow riders ask me whats wrong with it.

I have a serious feeling that the grease/oil on the chain somehow gets into the brake liners,due to which while braking it creates that noise.Its become a nightmare just to rear brake,so i try to apply more pressure on the front rather than the rear.

Has anyone experienced similar issues with the C5,any suggestion is deeply appreciated as this has been bothering me for some months now..totally going bonkers due to it. :(

[anupkrverma]

@epvineesh : have u noticed any sign of metal friction spots inside the drum. It its metal to metal then there should be some highly polished friction spots.
And BTW u should use front brakes more often.

[nasirkaka]

@ epvineesh:

A totally faulty swingarm on your new bike and why am i not surprised. RE is stopped surprising me anymore. so much for PDIs and Quality checks.

w.r.t the rear brake making noise, In my case, the the brake shoe springs were touching the hub. We had to take the rear wheel hub on to a lathe, and remove some material. Just check for that, as its been seen on other bikes as well.

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Perhaps there is a lack of understanding on my part but you've confused me with your problem description.

Thank you tons ArizonaJim for helping me! Sorry for not describing my issue properly. I will try to describe it again. As soon as I release the throttle(which decreases speed), there is a pulling back as if some brakes were applied. If I timely press the clutch before releasing the throttle, there is no pulling back. I think that either the plugs are shot and need to be replaced, or there is some other serious issue. Will get it checked the the RE workshop asap.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Perhaps there is a lack of understanding on my part but you've confused me with your problem description.

Mods-Please merge the back to back posts. My last post has not been approved yet and by the time it gets done, the half hour limit will get over or I will not be able to edit in the given time.

@ArizonaJim-Was not aware if there are any gaskets involved in plug installation. Will check about the gaskets and replace them if possible.

[ArizonaJim]

iron.head
When you release the throttle or rotate the top of the throttle grip away from you it shuts off the air and fuel supply to the engine until it reaches idle speed.

Without air or fuel, the engine, which is running at a fairly fast speed while your riding along wants to immediately slow down. If the clutch is left engaged while this is happening the resistance of the engine will immediately slow the motorcycle.
This is called "Engine Braking".
THIS IS TOTALLY NORMAL. It is the way it is supposed to work.
It happens in automobiles, trucks, buses and even Formula 1 racing cars. In fact many people use this engine braking to help save wear and tear on their brakes.

This engine braking is most noticeable in the lower gears. If you release the throttle while the motorcycle is in 5th gear it will gently slow down. If it is in 3rd gear the amount of braking will be quite strong. In gears lower than 3rd, instantly shutting the throttle can cause the rear wheel to loose its grip and slide.

Simply put, there is absolutely nothing wrong with your motorcycles engine.

A large part of learning to ride a motorcycle is learning how to best use its controls.
If someone does not want the engine to rapidly brake the speed of the motorcycle they must learn to slowly shut the throttle by rotating the top of the grip just slightly towards themselves. If it is slowing down too rapidly then a slight rotation of the grip away from themselves will reduce the deceleration.
There is a art to this and it must be learned.
A good rider rarely suddenly opens or closes the throttle on their machine unless they need rapid acceleration or braking.

May I suggest that you practice using the throttle to gently accelerate and brake the motorcycle? If you can find a road with little traffic to practice on you won't become a bother to the other motorists. Once you learn to use the throttle it will become second nature to you and you will know exactly what to expect from your motorcycle.

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

iron.head
When you release the throttle or rotate the top of the throttle grip away from you it shuts off the air and fuel supply to the engine until it reaches idle speed.

@ArizonaJim

I am able to get what you are trying to tell me here. I do it very gently and am aware of the engine braking thing. I don't release the throttle completely in one go. It's just that the engine braking thing has increased to a very high limit and never happened before I removed the plugs and installed them back. Anybody can ride the bike and in a second understand that there is a problem with it. I will take it to the workshop today to get it sorted. I also checked the wires in the tool box and looked fine. Can it be due to some loose wires/sensor not working?

[ruchirtnt]

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[Leepower]

Nasirkaka, I am game for this one. Planning to put it on my bro's Electra UCE 350. Infact, I had asked if anyone has any idea about such faring earlier. No one had any idea. Here's my earlier link. ( I want only the faring on the headlight area. Rest are passe!!!)
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...enfield-3.html

[iron.head]

Hey ArizonaJim! Found today that this wire had been disconnected from the last two days. It must have been accidentally disconnected while I was checking out the tool box. I have connected it today and took a pic to show you. The problem has still not resolved. This wire might have been related to some sensor which changed the engine timing? and lead to all these issues?

[hollywoodhogan]

Originally Posted by iron.head

Hey ArizonaJim! Found today that this wire had been disconnected from the last two days. It must have been accidentally disconnected while I was checking out the tool box. I have connected it today and took a pic to show you. The problem has still not resolved. This wire might have been related to some sensor which changed the engine timing? and lead to all these issues?

if that wire connector was connected to any sensor, your bike's "mil lamp" would have been glowing all along. and hey, did you check the chain tension? too tight a chain can lead to symptoms that you have described. also check free rolling of both the wheels for any brake seizing issues.

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by hollywoodhogan

if that wire connector was connected to any sensor, your bike's "mil lamp" would have been glowing all along. and hey, did you check the chain tension? too tight a chain can lead to symptoms that you have described. also check free rolling of both the wheels for any brake seizing issues.

@hollywoodhogan
The mil never glowed. The chain tension is properly adjusted. No brake seizing issue either. Will get the ecu checked today if it has developed any errors.

[iron.head]

one end of this wire is directly connected to the negative of the battery. where the other end goes is still unknown.

[adrian]

Hi Friends and Experts, couple of things I would like to know regarding oil change.
1. Is Motul 3000 4T Plus available in local lubricant shops ?

2. Is oil filter element for the new UCE engine available for us to purchase ?

I am asking the above questions as an RE dealer told me that both the oil and filter are supplied to RE service alone and cannot be purchased locally !!

3. Is it a good idea to direct the air from the vacuum cleaner in blower mode into the oil filling hole to flush out oil from the nook and corner of the engine through the drain plugs ?

4. Any problem if we measure the quantity of oil drained and replenish new oil in the exact drained amount back to the engine ?

Regards Adrian

[stnair]

Originally Posted by adrian

Hi Friends and Experts, couple of things I would like to know regarding oil change.
1. Is Motul 3000 4T Plus available in local lubricant shops ?

2. Is oil filter element for the new UCE engine available for us to purchase ?

I am asking the above questions as an RE dealer told me that both the oil and filter are supplied to RE service alone and cannot be purchased locally !!

3. Is it a good idea to direct the air from the vacuum cleaner in blower mode into the oil filling hole to flush out oil from the nook and corner of the engine through the drain plugs ?

4. Any problem if we measure the quantity of oil drained and replenish new oil in the exact drained amount back to the engine ?

Regards Adrian

I am not an expert, but as a friend let me tell you this:

1. I saw a can of Motul 3000 4T oil at the dealer in Calicut where I purchased Motul 300V Synthetic. So it must be available locally. For Trivandrum, contact Amba Automobiles, Thakaraparamba Rd, Ph 0471-3253907

2. Should be available. There is a dealer in Calicut who exclusively deals with R.E spares.

3. I dont know. I am afraid such a procedure may force the oil into places where its not meant to go.

4. Measure the drained quantity and check if it tallies with Company specification in User manual. For RE CL 350, it should be around 2.3L. If its too low, it means you havent drained out the oil completely . But replenish the oil till the Oil check window is nearly full.

regards
San