[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by bmw_m5_titus

Gurus, I have a doubt. From the details available on the RE website, of the 3 UCE engined 350s, namely Electra, Thunderbird and Classic 350, the first two have 35/35w headlight while the Classic 350 seems to have 55/60w illumination. What I would like to know is whether the Classic has a different/more powerful coil or is it identical to the tbird and electra uce? All 3 same to share the same battery spec.

Ok, confirmed report that all the UCE have the same alternator of 200-+ 20 watts.

[bmw_m5_titus]

Thanks a whole lot, Randhawa.
Where did you get the stats, if you dont mind me asking?
So that means that even if one fits a 55/60w bulb on Electra or TBTS, it can handle the load?
I assume Classic 350 owners are not having problems when they use indicator, horn etc when riding with headlight on?

[stnair]

Originally Posted by bmw_m5_titus

I assume Classic 350 owners are not having problems when they use indicator, horn etc when riding with headlight on?

What problem? If you mean headlight dimming when using Indicator, horn etc- NO.

Gurus... I have another doubt. What is the use of Ammeter in C350 ? If it aids in kick starting, then why is it not there in C5? And how do you use the Ammeter effectively in starting the bike- I kick kick kick kick and somehow it starts - but never in the first kick.

regards
San

[Randhawa]

@BMW- Off course I'll mind such questions

My source is me, myself and two RE engineers, production quality head of UCE, R&D EFI specialist and few more.

Yesterday I had personally inspected the coils of three UCE bikes and confirmed it. Yes it will be able to handle the 55/60w bulb as all the ES have 14AMP battery. But the non ES Electra might have the AC/DC supply which you will have to confirm.

@Stnair- Ammeter on UCE does not assist with kick starting as compared to the other bulls. Its only there to tell you about the batt charging status and health. Its not there on C5 because it wasn't important and no space was there to fit it.

Your idling is not set right I think or your auto decomop has not settled in properly yet. How much have you done on ODO? Have you tried using choke in the morning?

[mantrig]

Hello All,

I am hoping to get across this query across in the proper fashion.

On the earlier bulls the Ammeter used to keep moving towards the +ve while the bike was being ridden around to convey that the battery is being charged and used to keep moving left while a indicator or headlights were operational.

On my C350, I am a bit curious if this is the cae with all or is there any fault with my ammeter. When I start the bike initially and rev it a bit the ammeter moves towards the +ve side but then while riding it does not show that the battery is being charged and is steady in the centre position. Only while at a red-light when the brakes are engaged it shows a deflection towards -ve to some extent and comes back to normal when brakes are released (this is very normal, i agree).

My concern is, why does it not show that battery is being charged while I am riding around?

Is it that the battery is fully charged hence no charging is required or is there some other issue?

Also, are other CL 350 owners seeing the same or is it only my ride?

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@Stnair- Ammeter on UCE does not assist with kick starting as compared to the other bulls. Its only there to tell you about the batt charging status and health. Its not there on C5 because it wasn't important and no space was there to fit it.

Your idling is not set right I think or your auto decomop has not settled in properly yet. How much have you done on ODO? Have you tried using choke in the morning?

I wish R.E had put a fuel guage there instead of the useless Ammeter. I remember many years back, Auto Drivers used to carry a wooden scale to measure the fuel level in lambretta Autorikshaws. I am planning to get one.

I ve done 110km with my Bullu. I think the idle is set to a bit high rpm. Yes I use choke in the morning but not always. If it doesnt start, then I use choke.

regards

San

[Randhawa]

@Mantrig- What you have observed is just they way an ammeter is on all the UCE electras and C3.

The ammeter on UCE bulls are not highly accurate and hence we dont get a accurate reading but it solves the purpose.

You dont see much deflection while riding around is due to the fact that when the needle is in the middle and battery is fully charged. It needs a small amount of current to keep it flowing from the RR unit which is hardly around 12.8 volts(fully charged batt will show around 12.4v). The range of the ammeter is from +12 to 15volts max and to show the .4v increase is hard to be seen on the ammeter which is neither to sensitive or accurate.

To prove my theory, please look at the two video clips I have posted on my thread of my ammeter installation on my C5.

In one video(meter mounted in the place of MIL/fuel light) you will see the deflection much like you have on your bike but in an other video(installation on a fabricated housing) you will see even the slightest increase in the charging. Some how my ammeter got really touchy and suddenly one fine day it started showing every single volt deflection just to my liking. Now it shows the charging of the battery after using ES which the RR charges within 15secs. While riding at night, it shows increase in charging with light on and moment I switch to high beam it increases charging to compensate for extra consumption which it agains displays through the needle deflection.

So my experience says its all to do with the sensitivity and accuracy of the ammeter rather then charging or batt issues.

[EssYouWe]

+1 to what Randhawa said.

It is usually a very clear case of the battery being fully charged.
I usually see it flicking to +ve when I start riding after using the electric start.

[stnair]

@mantrig
I was observing my Ammeter today- Its almost similar to what you said- To the +ve immediately after starting, then comes and rest in the middle (but minutely aligned to the right or +ve) while riding.

@Achint, Sanjeet, I want another help- How do I adjust the rear Gas Shock absorbers? Its a bit stiff for my rides and here the roads full of potholes so I want to soften it a bit. The Owners manual says put the Tommy bar in the eylet and turn but I cant find any eyelet or anything that can hold the tommy bar in position to turn it.

Its 136km on my ODO and I am taking it very very slow. I think I ve mastered the false neutrals- very rare now and even if I encounter one, I dont panic- But the real neutral is still difficult to find- creates problem at Redlights.

regards
San

[bmw_m5_titus]

Randhawa, Thank you! Appreciate it that you did share the info though you mind!

[mantrig]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@Mantrig- What you have observed is just they way an ammeter is on all the UCE electras and C3.

The ammeter on UCE bulls are not highly accurate and hence we dont get a accurate reading but it solves the purpose.

You dont see much deflection while riding around is due to the fact that when the needle is in the middle and battery is fully charged. It needs a small amount of current to keep it flowing from the RR unit which is hardly around 12.8 volts(fully charged batt will show around 12.4v). The range of the ammeter is from +12 to 15volts max and to show the .4v increase is hard to be seen on the ammeter which is neither to sensitive or accurate.

To prove my theory, please look at the two video clips I have posted on my thread of my ammeter installation on my C5.

In one video(meter mounted in the place of MIL/fuel light) you will see the deflection much like you have on your bike but in an other video(installation on a fabricated housing) you will see even the slightest increase in the charging. Some how my ammeter got really touchy and suddenly one fine day it started showing every single volt deflection just to my liking. Now it shows the charging of the battery after using ES which the RR charges within 15secs. While riding at night, it shows increase in charging with light on and moment I switch to high beam it increases charging to compensate for extra consumption which it agains displays through the needle deflection.

So my experience says its all to do with the sensitivity and accuracy of the ammeter rather then charging or batt issues.

Thank you Sanjeet - Couldn't have gotten a better answer to my questions.

Also, Achint & San - Thank you for your inputs which have given me some peace of mind now that this is pretty much normal.


BTW, I finally got my registration # MH-01-AU-642.
She is back on the roads with the odo @ 360kms and am planning to get the oil changed tomorrow morning before the Sunday morning ride which is in the pipeline.

Not sure if the service centre guys would oblige to provide me with the 1st service @ just 400kms which I am hoping to complete by tomorrow morning.

[Randhawa]

@Stnair- We do have the tommy bar but its not the right size so we cant use it. RE workshop should have it but if they dont then try any Bajaj workshop, they might have the tool to adjust it.

@bmw- arre baba I was just kidding about, If I had a problem then I would have not shared anything till now

@Mantrig- Try to get the service done before 500 if you can. I dont think the workshop should have a problem with that.

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

@Stnair- We do have the tommy bar but its not the right size so we cant use it. RE workshop should have it but if they dont then try any Bajaj workshop, they might have the tool to adjust it.

Thanks. I will try, But I wanted to do it myself if possible.

Gurus... Sorry to disturb you guys again with my silly questions, but I have two more doubts..

1. Anything special to be done if I am to be away for 1 week from my Bullu? I ve cleaned and covered him with a cloth. switched off the fuel tap, and chained him with a padlock so he wont run away with someone else- but anything else?

2. I want to fit a mobile charger socket (Car charger) inside the LHS toolbox. But I dont want to take the connection direct from Battery terminals. Any suggestions ? My idea is to take the +ve from the output side of 15Amps fuse clip inside the toolbox (Red color) and since the -ve is earthed, connect the -ve of car charger socket to some body part or nut. Anything wrong with my idea?

Thanks and regards

San

[EssYouWe]

Hey San

A week wouldn't pose any problems. Whatever you have outlined is all that needs to be done.

No idea about the mobile charger, but why exactly do you want to use it?

[stnair]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

No idea about the mobile charger, but why exactly do you want to use it?

Its not for mobile. Its a secret experiment I am doing. Need a 12V DC power source for that.

San