Re: Royal Enfield Queries If there are no broken strands visable, your clutch cable doesn't have a problem and should last for a long time to come. Mine has lasted for over 26,600 km and it is still in good condition.
One of the reasons mine has lasted so long is I lubricate it at least 4 times a year.
You, and all of the rest of you on the forum should make a point of telling your service manager you want them to lubricate the cable at each service. It really doesn't take long to do and it will greatly extend the life of the cable.
(Those of you who own an Iron Barrel or a AVL will have a much more difficult time of oiling your cable. The instructions given below do NOT apply to your motorcycles but lubricating your clutch cable is just as important. ) Come to think about it, because of the difficulty of installing and adjusting clutch cables on these models, lubricating the cable is even more important than it is on a UCE powered RE.
For those of you who wish to do this yourself on a UCE powered RE, you will need to have a 18mm or 19mm open end spanner (wrench) or an adjustable wrench capable of being set to that size, a rag and some oil with some method of delivering it into a small opening. You will not be loosening the two small hexagon cable adjustment nuts that attach the cable to the engine case so this will not effect your clutch adjustment.
Place the wrench onto the clutch release arm, located on top of the left hand engine side cover. The wrench should be laying flat and straddling the lower part of the arm just above the place it enters the housing.
Rotate the wrench counterclockwise slightly. This will relax the tension on the cable allowing you to disconnect it from the sheet metal yoke that is attached to the clutch release arm. The cable at its enlarged end will slip thru a slot in the yoke to remove it.
Once this is done, release the rotational pressure on the wrench and remove it.
Going to the lever on the left handlebar, squeeze it until it hits the handgrip.
Now, pull the upper end of the cable away from the grip housing. This will expose the inner cable.
Rotating the cable forward will allow the inner cable to slip thru a slot in the front of the stationary part of the clutch lever assembly.
If you rotate this so the cable is pointing straight forward you will be able to slip it out of the bottom of the clutch lever.
There is a small rubber boot that needs to be slipped off of the metal outer cable end to expose the hole where the inner cable enters the outer cable.
With the boot out of the way, use whatever method you wish to get the oil down into the cable assembly. I have a special metal and rubber clamp sold for this purpose but others have used small funnels, pressurized cans of oil with a small tube attached or even just their hand to form a dam around the cable end. Whatever it takes to get the oil into the inside of the outer cable shield. Gravity will pull the oil down thru the cable to the bottom. (Slipping the inner cable in and out of the outer cable will help to work the oil into the outer cable.)
Once some sign of oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch cable past the large rubber billows at the bottom is seen, you are finished.
Slide the small rubber boot at the top of the cable back onto the metal end to seal off the joint. Position the inner cable so you can slip it back up into the bottom of the clutch lever while making sure the small piece of plastic at the front of the enlarged cable end is cushioning the cable/hand grip joint and then return the cable so that it slips thru the slot and engages the fixed part of the clutch assembly grip. It should look like it did when you started.
At the lower end of the cable, re-install the wrench on the clutch release lever, again turning it counterclockwise. Install the end of the clutch cable into the sheet metal yoke and release the pressure on the wrench.
You've done it !!!
The whole procedure, except for getting the oil into the cable doesn't take much longer to do than reading these instructions.
You can use just about any kind of oil for this.
I'm not a fan of WD40 but even this would work better than not lubricating the cable at all.
Happy Riding.
Last edited by ArizonaJim : 2nd January 2015 at 04:33.
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