[bhasker]

Gentlemen,

I own a Thunderbird 350 (July 2013). The chain seems to be loose as it has been producing some duck-duck noise. While one of my friend was riding my bike, I observed that the chain was bouncing up-and-down excessively. I don't wish to go to mechanic for this, as I wanna learn some tricks.
I tried to refer the owner manual for this, but it is slightly confusing. Kindly explain the chain tightening procedure.
The new Thunderbird 350 is equipped with a disc brake at the rear, so even the swingarm is also different in design from other models.

Regards

[ArizonaJim]

A worn chain or one that is out of adjustment can indeed make some strange noises.
It can also damage other parts so it is one of the things a rider should keep track of.

Assuming you have kept the chain lubricated with a good chain oil at least once every 800 km or so, the chain most likely needs adjustment.

To determine if this is needed, with the motorcycle in neutral, resting on the centerstand, try moving the chain up and down with your fingers about mid-way between the engine and the rear sprocket.

It should have a total movement of at least 35 mm. If the total movement is greater than 50 mm it needs adjustment.

Using your hand, slowly rotate the rear wheel in a forward direction and watch the chain as it moves. If the chain seems to have a link that doesn't want to straighten out as it leaves the sprocket, the chain is ruined. Replacement is the only option here because a chain with tight links will rapidly destroy your rear sprocket, a much more costly thing to replace than a chain.

Adjusting the chain involves more than just adjusting the freedom of the chain movement.
Because the rear wheel will have to be loosened from the rear fork so it can be moved, wheel alignment must also be reset. This is the alignment of the rear wheel with the front wheel.
If the two wheels don't align, one wheel will be trying to go one way while the other wheel will be trying to go another.
This will result in a poorly handling motorcycle that constantly trys to turn one way or the other and riding it can be dangerous.

If you don't feel qualified to do the adjustment or replace your chain, take the bike to a mechanic you trust. Adjusting or replacing a chain is very similar on most motorcycles so the mechanic doesn't have to know a thing about the new UCE Royal Enfields.

If your motorcycle was older than it is I would also mention checking the "slop" of the chain at the rear sprocket. Although your's shouldn't need it, if you had an old motorcycle, to check for a worn out chain, grab one of the links that is engaged with the teeth on the rear sprocket and pull it outward, away from the teeth.
If one of the chain rollers at the link you are pulling on raises away from the bottom of the sprocket tooth more than 3 mm, the chain is most likely worn out.

A well made chain should be capable of going at least 24,000 km if it is kept lubricated and properly adjusted although I must admit, the chain that came on my 500cc 2011 G5 (Electra) was pretty much worn out after only 5000 km. Yes, I did keep it well lubricated.
I replaced it with a chain that was made in the USA and it has accumulated over 19,000 km without a problem.
By the way, if you can find a Japanese made chain like a D.I.D., RK, I consider them worth the extra cost.

[vivtho]

Hello,

I've just taken delivery of my new TBTS 500 from Kings Auto Riders (Baner), Pune. I'm gonna have to take it in for the first service later this week and I wanted to be sure that they're good at servicing bikes.

Has anybody here serviced their bike there? What was the experience like? Any issues? Alternatively, is there some other A.S.S. that I can service the bike?

[john doe]

Originally Posted by vivtho

Alternatively, is there some other A.S.S. that I can service the bike?

The 2 authorised R. E. Service stations that are known to be good are both on the other side of town.

Just Google Alex garage and kunal bike works. We have members who are loyal to either of the two.

If you find both very far, and decide to go to the baner dealer, just make sure that you present throughout. I have heard some stories.

[shaikhmimran]

The sales staff at RE brand store ( bannerghatta rd, Bangalore) informed me today that RE has re-introduced Gloss black color in TB 500 around 3 days back. So now TB 500 is available in 4 colors.

[mustang 99]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

vishalrr
The misfire you refer to sounds more like a "backfire", a loud popping from the exhaust, to me.
.
.
.
Some say the ECU is learning what the best settings are. I'm not sure it is that smart but again, don't worry about it.

Arizona Jim I have new Royal Enfield Thunderbird 500 2014 model which has run 2000 km changed the exhaust to "wild boar" exhaust system which has glasswool in it . I am facing similar problem of misfiring when I suddenly close the throttle. I have also changed the spark plungs to NKG iridium BPR5EIX which is a hotter plug , the other smaller plug is CR9EIX which is a colder plug . Just wanted to know if this combination is ok for thunderbird 500 engine. The factory fitted ones which I changed had black carbon deposits in moderate amounts. This missing "pop" sound was present before also occasionally but was not very noticeable but with new exhaust this pop sound is more annoying. The pick up is good no power loss, engine starts perfectly, idles well. Hope this doesn't damage the engine. What can be done to reduce or eliminate this problem ?

[vishalrr]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

vishalrr
When you replaced the silencer there is a good chance you opened a leak path where the exhaust connects to the head. You might ask your mechanic to check that area for leaks and the tightness of the two nuts that clamp up that joint.


Ride Safely.

Hi Jim,

Have tightened the clamps, cleaned the sparkplugs and checked for leakes(found none); still no improvment. Did this a couple times over the last couple fortnights. Is it a different/serious issue that is causing the mis/backfire?

[ArizonaJim]

mustang99: Yes, the NKG iridium BPR5EIX is a hotter spark plug than what I normally use in my FI 500cc UCE. I've been using a BPR6ES, old fashioned plug with great success.
I'm not familiar with the twin plug engines so I cannot comment on a replacement for the smaller spark plug.

As for popping on decelaration, to an extent, all engines occasionally do it. The silencer usually keeps it from being noticeable.
With any less effective silencer these pops will be more noticeable.

As for a fix, if the motorcycle is fuel injected, there's not a lot that can be done to reduce it.
As I mentioned before, when slowing down, if you've rolled off the throttle but it is still somewhat open the motorcycle will pop or backfire. This is especially true if you've downshifted so the engine is running at a high rate of speed.
If the throttle is completely closed, it often helps to reduce the backfiring .

On a carburetored engine, slightly enriching the air/fuel ratio by changing the jets sizes (primary and main jet) will help to eliminate it.

As the free flowing exhaust allows more air to enter the engine, it's possible that the air;/fuel ratio is slightly lean on a fuel injected motorcycle.
About the only way for determining if this is causing any damage is to check the condition of the center ceramic insulator on a spark plug that is the recommended heat range. (That would be a 6 on a NGK plug).

If the insulator looks to be a soft light tan or ivory color, everything is fine and nothing is being damaged.

If the insulator looks to be bone white and rather glossy or shiny, it indicates things are getting too hot so there may be some damage being done to the valves.

If the insulator looks to be a soft, black color the engine is running rich. While this won't damage anything it does reduce the fuel economy.
Rich conditions are usually caused by a blocked air filter.

[B O V]

I have a question regarding chain wear,My bikes run 1800 kms since the last chain replacement.Apparently its been worn out.I tried pullin the roller on the rear sprocket and it does come away from the sprocket a fair bit.

Since its only been such a short while.I was wondering if it could be due to the fatter tyre that I've been running on my bike for those 1800 kms.Upsize went from the 3.25*19 to the MRF Meteor 110/90.Could it be due to the extra force required in rotating the fatter tyre that the chain has worn out?

Would a better quality chain do the job better?

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by B O V

I have a question regarding chain wear,My bikes run 1800 kms since the last chain replacement.Apparently its been worn out.I tried pullin the roller on the rear sprocket and it does come away from the sprocket a fair bit.

You are partly right, theoretically, fatter tyre will make the chain work more because of increased unsprung weight and friction. But I think it should not make huge drop in the chain life. I personally had ran on 120 and 110 section tyres (that too 19") for good amount of distances and did not observe any unusual wear in the chain/sprocket.

In your case I guess the new chain has merely streached. It happens with all the chains overtime. A gradually streached chain and a worn out chain are entirely different things. All you need to do is just tighten the chain. 1800 or 2000 Kms is a good time for another readjustment.

PS: A chain can be rendered useless only if you are able to pull it off the rear sprocket and the snail cam adjuster is in its last tooth. Or else just tighten it and you are good to go!

[mustang 99]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

mustang99: Yes, the NKG iridium BPR5EIX is a hotter spark plug than what I normally use in my FI 500cc UCE. I've been using a BPR6ES, old fashioned plug with great success.
I'm not familiar with the twin plug engines so I cannot comment on a replacement for the smaller spark plug.

As for popping on decelaration, to an extent, all engines occasionally do it. The silencer usually keeps it from being noticeable.
With any less effective silencer these pops will be more noticeable.

As for a fix, if the motorcycle is fuel injected, there's not a lot that can be done to reduce it.
As I mentioned before, when slowing down, if you've rolled off the throttle but it is still somewhat open the motorcycle will pop or backfire. This is especially true if you've downshifted so the engine is running at a high rate of speed.
If the throttle is completely closed, it often helps to reduce the backfiring .

On a carburetored engine, slightly enriching the air/fuel ratio by changing the jets sizes (primary and main jet) will help to eliminate it.

As the free flowing exhaust allows more air to enter the engine, it's possible that the air;/fuel ratio is slightly lean on a fuel injected motorcycle.
About the only way for determining if this is causing any damage is to check the condition of the center ceramic insulator on a spark plug that is the recommended heat range. (That would be a 6 on a NGK plug).

If the insulator looks to be a soft light tan or ivory color, everything is fine and nothing is being damaged.

If the insulator looks to be bone white and rather glossy or shiny, it indicates things are getting too hot so there may be some damage being done to the valves.

If the insulator looks to be a soft, black color the engine is running rich. While this won't damage anything it does reduce the fuel economy.
Rich conditions are usually caused by a blocked air filter.

Thanks ArizonaJim ,
Royal Enfield is putting one number hotter spark plugs in indian models, may be because of the lack of oxygen sensor which was leading to black carbon deposits on spark plugs in India.

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by B O V

I have a question regarding chain wear,My bikes run 1800 kms since the last chain replacement.Apparently its been worn out.I tried pullin the roller on the rear sprocket and it does come away from the sprocket a fair bit.

Since its only been such a short while.I was wondering if it could be due to the fatter tyre that I've been running on my bike for those 1800 kms.Upsize went from the 3.25*19 to the MRF Meteor 110/90.Could it be due to the extra force required in rotating the fatter tyre that the chain has worn out?

Would a better quality chain do the job better?

What type of chain is it?
The open type or the o-ring type?

[Argan365]

Experts,

I have been facing a strange problem with my 2013 March TB500 battery. The original battery( FIAM) which used to come with the TB500 had died somewhere around June of this year and I went and replaced the same with a new Exide Bikerz, the red & white model( without drain pipe). Now since then there have been multiple instance where the battery seems to drain out very quickly as indicated in the blinking battery icon. I do use the bike on an average for 25 kms on weekdays for my office commute. But even after replacing the battery The same issue seems to persist with the battery blinking. I took the battery out yesterday and got it checked with the exide folks who tested it for a few days and said that battery was all good.

Put the battery back in and all was good, take the bike to office and park it for around 8 hrs, while coming back I start the bike and immediately the low battery icon was flashing again. It does accentuate if I use the headlight.

I'm tempted to think that maybe the battery is defective, the easier problem to identify and get it replaced but am also confused on what else could cause the battery to drain immediately.

Also what is the best way to get the battery tested and what are the readings I should be looking for.

Thanks,
Arvind

[vrajaram]

I believe it is O-Ring Type. And life expectancy of this (if lubricated regularly) should be easily 20,000 Kms and upwards.

Every 400-500 kms you need to lubricate the chain. The inside of the roller and outer side of the hollow pin. The roller needs to be able to rotate freely and also show good sideways movement on either side. The gap between the roller and plate should be dust free.

The O-Ring only protects the lubrication of solid pin exterior.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by bj96

...9-year old, CI Electra is suffering from "exhaust popping" on deceleration, not very loud, but audible...

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

...
...happens when the engine is decelerating with the throttle still part way open. Usually, completely closing the throttle while slowing down will reduce the number of backfires...or air leaking into the exhaust pipe at the joint where the pipe connects to the cylinder head can increase the number of backfires...

Update: I did (DIY) following things and after a very short ride today morning, the issue seems to be fixed. Thanks Jim and others for tips.

1) Replaced Spark-plug with NGK Iridium. This did not fix the issue.
2) Applied sealant around joints between pipe and head and muffler
3) Opened carb, cleaned everything and installed back. Noticed that the top cap on the carb (throttle cable inlet for slide) was not fully seated- causing the slide to stay open.

Looks like point#3 and (probably) 2 were most relevant.


-BJ