[Pheonix]

My STD UCE has clocked close to 50K and i need to change the engine oil in this service (not at RE service centre ).Can any one suggest a good engine oil with specifications.

Thanks

[B O V]

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Guys I have a 2004 Electra 4s and the rear tire needs to be changed. Can one of the RE veterans here, let me know what's the best tire and at what price ?

What is the current rear tyre size you have on it?I did try to find 3.50 MRFs last when I needed,Couldn't find any.

I recently changed from the 3.25 to an MRF Meteor.Better than the 3.25's for sure.It felt much more stable on the road and the dry grip levels were superior.It looks very nice too.

However I had to cut a portion of the chain guard(after the tyre got run in it started rubbing the chain guard to due the slight expansion of the rubber)

The grip levels in wet+muck conditions during rains make it quite tail happy while braking.However since I'm a sedate rider I've had very few instances of this wet slip.

Costed me 2200Rs last year at the MRF franchise here in Cochin.

[bj96]

My almost 9-year old, CI Electra is suffering from "exhaust popping" on deceleration, not very loud, but audible. I am convinced there is no leak in exhaust head or muffler joint (have applied silicon sealant at muffler joint). What could be other reasons? My battery is old (it has TCI), but don't notice any problem with headlight intensity (it is DC).

Pls advise what are the possible areas to start investigation.

[EDIT] I have a short bottle silencer and catalytic converter is removed from the bend pipe.

tia,

-BJ

[B O V]

Originally Posted by bj96

My almost 9-year old, CI Electra is suffering from "exhaust popping" on deceleration, not very loud..-BJ

Did the popping on the overrun(when the throttle is closed)just start?

Since its quite mild from what you say it just seems like a bit of regular tuning is required,thats it(Might be running a bit lean).Get it to your mech,I expect that he'll sort it out in a jiffy.

[ArizonaJim]

bj96
It is possible there is an air leak between the carburetor and the cylinder.

The first thing to do is to check the clamp to make sure it is tight. Over time, the round area that clamps to the carburetor can loosen and tightening the clamp screw can fix it.

The rubber carburetor mount can develop small cracks which will let additional air into the air/fuel mixture. This would lean out the mix and can cause the popping you mention.

On some models this rubber mount will have a flange which bolts to the cylinder head.
That flat surface can become distorted and also allow excess air into the engine.

A method of testing this duct/mount is to start the engine and allow it to idle at a constant speed.

With the engine idling, spray some water on all of the external duct/flange surfaces.
The water will temporarily block off a small leak.

If the engine idle speed suddenly slows down a bit, there is a leak somewhere.

If there is a leak, replace the inlet duct/mount or find the exact point where the leak is and after cleaning the area, coat the area with silicone rubber RTV.

Although the rubber duct between the carburetor and the air filter can also develop cracks that will allow additional air into the duct, a leak on the air filter side of the carburetor would not cause the popping sound you describe.

It is not good to have a leak in this inlet duct because unfiltered dirty air will cause excessive wear on your engines piston/rings/bore so if this side is leaking you should fix it.

[man_of_steel]

As per my knowledge, exhaust poping a.k.a backfiring can be due to a rich tuning.

Also, If there are any leaks in the exhaust backfiring can occur. Check for any leaks in from the joint of bent pipe and muffler. You can place your hand in this region and check when the engine is running. Tighten the exhaust header (bend pipe), check the exhaust gasket) the muffler-header joint, tune the carb and check again.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by B O V

Did the popping on the overrun(when the throttle is closed)just start...Get it to your mech...

The issue has been there for quite some time, but recently, I changed to short muffler and removed the catalytic converter in the bend pipe. The issue is more pronounced now. I am scared of mechanics- ever since the bike was out of warranty, I have been doing all service myself. Only this issue is nagging me for sometime now.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

bj96
It is possible there is an air leak between the carburetor and the cylinder...
The rubber carburetor mount can develop small cracks which will let ......

Will check over the weekend. Otherwise, my bike is a low runner (done only about ~18.5k kms so far) but, it starts first kick even after sitting in garage for weeks together and idles fine too. I have left the PAV (Pulse-Air-valve) on exhaust intact- could that be a reason as there is no cat-con in the exhaust pipe to make use of extra oxygen?

Thanks,
-BJ

[tharian]

Originally Posted by bj96

The issue has been there for quite some time, but recently, I changed to short muffler and removed the catalytic converter in the bend pipe. The issue is more pronounced now. I am scared of mechanics- ever since the bike was out of warranty, I have been doing all service myself. Only this issue is nagging me for sometime now.

With the original muffler, probably the pop wasn't audible , but with a short bottle , it will be. I don't think you need to worry about it if they are not those loud backfires.
I know of a AVL 350 which used to backfire if any type of muffler apart from its original long muffler was used. These was no settings in the carb that was done and the cat con is still in place. It hasn't affected the engine in anyway and runs fine.

My guess would be a slight leak at one of the joints.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by bj96

My almost 9-year old, CI Electra is suffering from "exhaust popping" on deceleration, not very loud, but audible. I am convinced there is no leak in exhaust head or muffler joint (have applied silicon sealant at muffler joint). What could be other reasons? My battery is old (it has TCI), but don't notice any problem with headlight intensity (it is DC).

Pls advise what are the possible areas to start investigation.

[EDIT] I have a short bottle silencer and catalytic converter is removed from the bend pipe.

tia,

-BJ

This usually happens from a lean mixture. Try increasing the idling and then ride for about 1 km. After a km, try decelerating and see if the popping still occurs because it usually happens due to pilot jet in the carb. When we have an aftermarket silencer we need to re-tune the carb for an optimum mixture.

[B O V]

So it started after removal of the catcon and the short bottle?

If so,I feel that if its a very mild popping its probably no big deal.However there are a variety of other reasons so as to why its popping.Which other bhpians have already mentioned.

I totally understand the bit about gettin it serviced yourself.Unless you have a trusted mech it can turn out to be a pain.I'm sure theres someone here who can guide you to a good mech.

[john doe]

Just check for leaks in the intake as described by Arizona Jim, that should be your 1st step before anything else.

[vishalrr]

Hi,

I have been facing a misfire issue in my TBTS500(may '14 model'), this started a couple weeks back.

> I had changed the silencer from stock to the 'NEW TB off-road Silencer' a couple months back and the mechanic at the ASC blamed that.

> I went back to stock to check and the problem continued and I also tried out the new WildBoar.

> All three silencers have a misfire when I let go off the accelerator and slow down without down shifting. It generally happens when the RPMS reduce from 2.5 to 2. Speed and gear does not matter, every time I stop or reduce acceleration 'bang she goes'

> It took 3 trips to the ASC for the mech to acknowledge the problem and stop blaming the exhaust(partially!! he still blames it a bit) he cleaned the spark plugs today but the misfire still continues but slightly lesser now.

> Now maybe unrelated but it started misfiring around the same time I noticed that the battery icon on the display started blinking wile idling on the signal with the headlights and the indicators on; This goes away when I turn them off and start riding with the headlights on again, but continues to be an issue on and off. Again not been fixed with 3 trips to the ASC he just checked the battery and said "CHARGE HORANA BATIRRY" CHALEJATHA APNE AAP TUM DEKHO" in true Hyderabadi style

> I have also noticed a Crackling+clicking noise when the ES does not work the first time and the bike is about to shut while stopping or slowing at a hump; this only happens when i start my ride everyday within in the first 10 odd minutes then no issues til next day; Again it is NORMAL as per the mechanic

> ALL three issues started on the night I got another issue of increased RPM corrected, my bike RPM would increase from 1 to 1.5 while in idle; this was fixed with a new fuel pipe being fitted.THIS WAS DONE FOR THE THIRD TIME IN AS MANY MONTH


Pardon the long rant, its just that the attitude of the ASC mech and the recurring trips to get the issue acknowledged BUT STILL NOT FIXED is really frustrating. I just want my weekly trips to the ASC to stop and ride with all my worries left behind (the way god intended rides to be)

So any ideas, suggestions and recommendations all are welcome.

[ArizonaJim]

vishalrr
The misfire you refer to sounds more like a "backfire", a loud popping from the exhaust, to me.

This happens when the engine is decelerating with the throttle still part way open. Usually, completely closing the throttle while slowing down will reduce the number of backfires.
Backfires sometimes occur even with the original silencer but the noise is usually muffled so people tend to not notice it.

A free flow silencer or air leaking into the exhaust pipe at the joint where the pipe connects to the cylinder head can increase the number of backfires.

When you replaced the silencer there is a good chance you opened a leak path where the exhaust connects to the head. You might ask your mechanic to check that area for leaks and the tightness of the two nuts that clamp up that joint.

It is very unlikely the battery or other electrical issues would cause a backfire unless the ECU greatly changed the ignition timing. Changing the timing to something that would cause a backfire would make the motorcycle almost unridable because of starting difficulties or a lack of power.

The alternator on the RE, UCE engine supplies very little power when the engine is idling.
If the headlight is on and a turn indicator is operating while the engine is running slowly, the power demand is more than the alternator can produce so the battery icon may light, often blinking in time with the turn indicator. It is nothing to worry about however, do make an effort to run the engine at a moderate speed to recharge the battery while you are riding.

The clicking noise you hear as the engine is stopping is caused by the automatic compression release, built into the exhaust cam.
At running speeds, this release is retracted so it makes no noise. At speeds below 700 rpm, the device engages and can cause a noticeable clicking sound. Don't worry about it.

The idle speeds you mention are within the correct speed settings.
The Engine Control Unit (ECU) on the fuel injected motorcycles controls the idle speed and during break in it will seem to be hunting for the right idle speed. This is normal but with accumulating mileage it will get better.
Some say the ECU is learning what the best settings are. I'm not sure it is that smart but again, don't worry about it.

Ride Safely.

[vishalrr]

Thanks Jim, relieved to hear most of the problems are just in my head

Will get the leak checked by the mechanic. Appreciate your inputs on this.


Cheers,
VRR

[stnair]

Originally Posted by Pheonix

My STD UCE has clocked close to 50K and i need to change the engine oil in this service (not at RE service centre ).Can any one suggest a good engine oil with specifications.

Thanks

I feel Motul 300v 15W50 is the best.