[Thar4x4]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

What did he mean by crank got out?? And how can a crank turn the opposite side?? Experts please comment.

Apart from that. Ask him to thoroughly check all the wiring. It sounds like a short wire to me!

And did he check the magneto coil instead of blaming the crank?

I am also wondering how the crank can run in opposition direction, he said it can happen with wrong riding. He opened whole wiring and there is no issue. Yes magneto checked and it was getting stuck when expanded after some km so he did some tricks to fix it.

I am also waiting for experts comments.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Thar4x4

Yes magneto checked and it was getting stuck when expanded after some km so he did some tricks to fix it.

The magneto is mounted on the crankshaft and a wood ruff key is provided to prevent its free rotation even if the mounting bolts come loose. So if the magneto gets stuck when the vehicle is in motion, it will stop the crank movement as well resulting in a rear wheel lock. The only possibility for the magneto to get stuck is with a loose mounting bolt and a missing wood ruff key.
regards adrian

[a_myth]

I think the life of my bullet’s battery is over. Whenever I press the electric start switch, the electricals suddenly become dead, and only resume after constant fiddling with the on -off key movement. Also the throttle inputs are not linear, with the bike constantly skipping some beats, which makes overtaking and crossings a bit tricky.

Now the issue is which battery brand to go for?? As per my info, only Exide manufactures 12v14amps batteries, which retail for approx. 3k here in Goa. However some recent inquiries revealed that Amaron also manufactures similar batteries. Can someone please guide me on this?? Also I am getting inputs that the Bullet battery is prone to malfunction and have a relatively short life as compared to other bikes.

Originally Posted by a_myth

Now the issue is which battery brand to go for?? As per my info, only Exide manufactures 12v14amps batteries, which retail for approx. 3k here in Goa. However some recent inquiries revealed that Amaron also manufactures similar batteries. Can someone please guide me on this?? Also I am getting inputs that the Bullet battery is prone to malfunction and have a relatively short life as compared to other bikes.

Go for an Amaron, you'll get them for Bullets. Plus they also give a 4 yr guarantee (2 yr guarantee 2 yr warantee) so shouldn't be a problem if it malfunctions.

[soarer]

Need your expert opinion on the following queries. I have recently bought a CL350 (July-2014) and left the bike for first service and face the following issues

I found some rusting in the front fork (area near to hub and in both legs) and also some rusting in hub when I pointed out to the SA; he told it is normal and used some steel wool to wipe it off. I am still not convinced and asked him can I change it under warranty for which he replied chrome parts are not covered under warranty.

After taking delivery, I am not finding the ride to be smooth. I can feel some kind of vibration when I press rear brake and again SA told it is normal and nothing to worry (but I didn’t feel it prior to service) and finding to quite difficult to ride the vehicle like that

Last is not a concern but a clarification, what should be the mileage before and after first service, because I am getting 45+ and riding the bike as per manual ( Mileage tested reserve to reserve method) and using normal petrol
Bike was bought and serviced from: Sai Ram auto craft, Outer ring road, Bangalore

Originally Posted by soarer

I found some rusting in the front fork (area near to hub and in both legs) and also some rusting in hub when I pointed out to the SA; he told it is normal and used some steel wool to wipe it off. I am still not convinced and asked him can I change it under warranty for which he replied chrome parts are not covered under warranty.

Obviously the service guys won't give you a new set of forks and hub because of a little rust. What I'd suggest is you clean that particular part with WD-40 and some steel wool, put some oil where the hub and forks meet and leave it to that.

Which part of the bike are the vibrations coming from when you brake?

Mileage is fine.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by a_myth

...and only resume after constant fiddling with the on -off key movement. Also the throttle inputs are not linear, with the bike constantly skipping some beats, which makes overtaking and crossings a bit tricky...

It can also be due to contact problem in the ignition key slot. Get it checked /replaced from SVC or as a DIY, spray some WD40 into the ignition key slot.

Regarding engine missing, which model is it? 350CI/UCE or 500efi/Carb?

[soarer]

Originally Posted by the-mechanic

Which part of the bike are the vibrations coming from when you brake?

Mileage is fine.

When I press the rear brake, i am feeling the vibration near to the engine in my right leg.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by soarer

When I press the rear brake, i am feeling the vibration near to the engine in my right leg.

2 things.

1. Check if the axle nut of rear wheel is fastened properly and alignment is correct.
2. Vibration could be also due to a bent/warped brake drum. Not sure how a relatively new bike could have a warped drum though! Get it checked anyway!

If both of the above things are fine, it will be better to have a look at the wheel bearings too!

[KkVaidya]

I decided to go for bar-end weights on my Electra as the vibrations are numbing at speeds after 65kph. I brought the weights but I see that they may require modification to the handlebar and grips. Can anyone please guide me on how to install these?

PS: I searched T-BHP for a DIY but was unable to find. It it exists, kindly give a link.

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Can anyone please guide me on how to install these?

PS: I searched T-BHP for a DIY but was unable to find. It it exists, kindly give a link.

Hi,
Itsnt a DIY thing exactly as your current handlebar doesnt look like it has a provision to mount handle weights.

You will need to insert a small metal/steel cylinder, make a hole in the centre, and TAP it for the Allen bolt to hold the bar end weights, all this has to be done on the lathe machine so you need to go to a shop and explain him what you need.

I got the same done when putting on RD350 handlebars for my 350.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I decided to go for bar-end weights on my Electra as the vibrations are numbing at speeds after 65kph. I brought the weights but I see that they may require modification to the handlebar and grips. Can anyone please guide me on how to install these?

You can either follow the steps Pheonix has suggested or you can go ahead and buy the new Electra's handlebar which has the grooves on its ends to bolt on the end-weights.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

You can either follow the steps Pheonix has suggested or you can go ahead and buy the new Electra's handlebar which has the grooves on its ends to bolt on the end-weights.

Seems like buying a new handlebar is an easy solution. But what about the handle grips? I guess that would also have to be brought new!

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Seems like buying a new handlebar is an easy solution. But what about the handle grips? I guess that would also have to be brought new!

You can either cut the end of these existing grips(the end will be of soft rubber) or buy a new pair.

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

...... Can anyone please guide me on how to install these?....

Get 2 nos M8 Flange nuts (try herohonda spares), Weld them into bar ends with flanges facing outward. Use a bolt ~2" long to position nuts & also to cover threads while welding. Hammer the grip ends while on pipe & it'll cut through. Done to add weights to Std's h'bar.

cheers..

Edit: thread length could be increased by welding two nuts back to back, with the hex faces butting each other, threaded on a bolt.