[ArizonaJim]

The kick starter and the electric starter are two totally independent systems.

The kickstarter shaft drives the transmissions clutch shaft thru a ratchet and pawl. The rotating clutch on the clutch shaft, when the kickstarter is operated (with the clutch lever released) , in turn drives the primary chain which rotates the sprocket on the crankshaft.

Backlash in the kickstarter system can be caused by something as simple as the bolt that secures the kick start lever to its shaft, being loose. Tightening the bolt would fix it.

Another problem that can happen is the kick start lever return spring may become dislodged so it doesn't fully return the kick starter lever to the top of its stroke. The spring is fairly easy to replace if that is required.

A more serious kick start problem causing excessive backlash is wear on the pawl that engages a ratchet on the transmission clutch shaft.
I have not heard of this causing the kick start system to fail on a UCE engine and that is a good thing.
A ratchet/pawl failure would require a total disassemble of the engine.

Some minor backlash in the kickstarter is inevitable because of normal wear if the kickstarter is used often.
If the kickstarter lever returns to the top of its stroke by itself and it drives the engine thru most of its stroke there probably isn't a big problem.

The kick starter system does not involve the sprag clutch in any way so if there seems to be some excessive backlash in the kickstarter, changing the sprag clutch will have no effect on it.

Ride safe.

[SuperSlick]

Thanks a lot ArizonaJim! I was expecting your response on this issue :-)

Well I hope the issue is not a serious one needing me to replace the sprag clutch or open up the engine. Good that the ES may not conk off due to continuous usage to start the bike. I hope its a simple issue and fixable within no time..ill try to see if I can get it checked at the earliest!

[LOKSIN]

Dear Friends,

I bought a Thunderbird 500 cc matte black in May 2013 from Brahma Motors, Pune.Although my running is very less (only 1700 km), I am plagued with the problem of rust on my bike.

First it was the crash guard (though a fitment from the dealer itself), now it is the handle and the left fork. This is very disturbing and need advice on how to rectify it. How can a manufacturer overlook such issues ? Please help


Note from Support: Post formatted for improved readability.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by LOKSIN

Dear Friends,

I bought a Thunderbird 500 cc matte black in May 2013 from Brahma Motors, Pune.Although my running is very less (only 1700 km), I am plagued with the problem of rust on my bike.

First it was the crash guard (though a fitment from the dealer itself), now it is the handle and the left fork. This is very disturbing and need advice on how to rectify it. How can a manufacturer overlook such issues ? Please help


Note from Support: Post formatted for improved readability.

The crash guard go after the dealer for a replacement. He as always will put the onus on the manufacturer (Swastik or Turnrite usually) and you will get minced in between ......

The handle and fork no to ways about it. Raise a stink and get replacements from RE under warranty. I am shocked. Normally, in spite of all its faults, one thing RE has always excelled in is long lasting good quality chrome on all its original factory parts (bend pipe, exhaust, handle, headlight rim, rims, mudguards, battery box, air box, chain cover, etc.).

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

.. Normally, in spite of all its faults, one think RE has always excelled in is long lasting good quality chrome on all its original factory parts (bend pipe, exhaust, handle, headlight rim, rims, mudguards, battery box, air box, chain cover, etc.).

+1. Even I can vouch for the quality of chrome plating of the OEM parts from RE! It just should'nt rust so easily.

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Normally, in spite of all its faults, one thing RE has always excelled in is long lasting good quality chrome on all its original factory parts (bend pipe, exhaust, handle, headlight rim, rims, mudguards, battery box, air box, chain cover,.

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

+1. Even I can vouch for the quality of chrome plating of the OEM parts from RE! It just should'nt rust so easily.

I agree with both you gentleman that Bullet chrome quality is excellent and if you look at my Classic 500 mobile pics below even after nearly 3 years, bike retains its gleam on all chrome portions exactly like the day i got the bike from dealership. Not a single rust issue

Iam begining to think other models which is less chrome concentrated like Desert Storm, Matt finished Tbirds etc are susepectible to these rust issues

Have you seen any complaints of chrome/metal parts rusting from any other than above two model owners? This makes me feel there is a defect in their manafacturing process for these non heavily chromed models

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by mobike008

Have you seen any complaints of chrome/metal parts rusting from any other than above two model owners? This makes me feel there is a defect in their manafacturing process for these non heavily chromed models

Apart from the show, chrome acts as a protective layer on the metal. Its due to the impurities(copper,iron, nickel etc) in the plating solution that causes rusting/pitting issues.
So could be that in some batches, the impurities go higher than standard, resulting in this problem of only some bikes getting on the rust.

[LOKSIN]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The crash guard go after the dealer for a replacement. He as always will put the onus on the manufacturer (Swastik or Turnrite usually) and you will get minced in between ......

The handle and fork no to ways about it. Raise a stink and get replacements from RE under warranty. I am shocked. Normally, in spite of all its faults, one thing RE has always excelled in is long lasting good quality chrome on all its original factory parts (bend pipe, exhaust, handle, headlight rim, rims, mudguards, battery box, air box, chain cover, etc.).

Thanks ebonho for your advice.Will do accordingly

[thumpingheart]

Hi guys. Does anyone know a good powder coating workshop in Pune? I need a few things like my wheels powder coated black. I am having a tough time finding a reliable guy. Can someone share any leads if possible?

Also, who will be the best person to go to paint the engine black too? Someone with experience, because I have seen a lot of guys with the paint on the engine peeling off almost immediately due to the heat.

Thanks.

[ArizonaJim]

A word of caution about painting the engine.

The air cooled engine uses all of its surface areas exposed to the outside to cool itself.

Some paints, particularly the glossy ones can inhibit the transfer of heat. They are also relatively thick and this contributes to their poor heat transfer.
Their inability to conduct heat essentially makes them an insulation blanket.

If these paints are applied to the cylinder fins or the cylinder head this insulation factor can lead to engine overheating.

Some paints, usually flat, non-glossy paints do allow for a high transfer of heat and the use of these should not cause a overheating problem.
These paints are usually black or silver and are often used on wood burning stoves, charcoal grills, automotive radiators and similar applications where heat transfer is important.
For instance, the sleeved aluminum cylinder and the crankcase on a few models of the UCE are painted by Royal Enfield using this type of paint.

Before painting your engine, discuss this with your painter and make sure the paint that is going to be used has good thermal heat transfer properties.

[B O V]

An issue cropped up on my enfield today.

I fear that its quite serious.For the past few days I've been intermittently hearing a sort of clicking sound from the engine/gearbox.Took it to the mech,couldn't find anything wrong with it.

2 days after i.e today I hear a clunk*thud and it dies.Tried to kick start it but the kickstarter was stuck.

Played around with a neutral finder,pulled the clutch in hopes that it would let the kickstarter free.Worked.Got it started and the clunk thud's keep rolling in.Got it to a local(not my regular)mech,He said that it needs to be opened up.Since I don't trust all mech's I took it back home.

Note-I can shift from between the gears.It makes that very nasty sound.

Any help would be much appreciated.

[rideon74]

Hey...check the bearings...one of my friend's thunderbird (2009 model) gave the same clunk*thud noises when I was on a ride with it. It died, I did the tricks as you did, got it started but the gear got on third. Somehow rode it to the nearest known mechanic. No go, the guy said, have to open her up.

We trucked her instead to the service center, they opened her up and found that the ball bearing sleeve had cracked in the gear shaft. Not very technically sound but she's fine now.

Could your problem too? If you're opening her up, do take it to someone you can trust...


Sent from my iPhone using Team-BHP

[adrian]

Originally Posted by adrian

@ all Bullet Gurus : Riding a Bullet with a carburetor is like having friendship with a person having multiple personality disorder. One day it runs like butter and another day it is throwing tantrums. As the air fuel mixture does not adapt by itself to altitude/climate changes, the motorcycle does not run fine through out the year and gives you more FE when compared to EFI Bullets.
The higher the altitude /The higher the humidity : The motorcycle runs rich.
Assuming what I said to be true : Suppose I adjusted the idle circuit in summer season (high humidity), how will the air fuel ratio be
a) During a heavy downpour
b) Before and after a downpour
Reason for the query is that my Bullet has good power and runs fine during downpours and seems to be a bit off tune on sunny day evenings.
P.S : I ride a Standard UCE 350 with BS29 carburetor and keep the fuel screw where the engine rpm has reached the summit and further turning does not affect the rpm and yes Trivandrum is at sea level.
regards adrian

Since the Bullet gurus currently living in the modern era of fuel injection are not showing any interest in old school carburetors, any meteorologist / weatherman in the forum who could explain the levels of humidity pre / post and during a heavy downpour ? and also the change in barometric pressure during daytime and night at sea level
regards adrian

Originally Posted by adrian

Since the Bullet gurus currently living in the modern era of fuel injection are not showing any interest in old school carburetors, any meteorologist / weatherman in the forum who could explain the levels of humidity pre / post and during a heavy downpour ? and also the change in barometric pressure during daytime and night at sea level
regards adrian

The basic concept is:

Higher altitude = Less pressure = Less oxygen = Mixture becomes technically rich (Summer setting)
Lower altitude = High pressure = More oxygen = Mixture is technically lean (Winter setting)

So the answers would be: (for adjustment done in summer, i.e. less humidity, less-dense air = less oxygen, mixture is richer [than regular])

During and after downpour: the air gets colder = more dense = higher oxygen. So your mixture is lean and you need to richen your mixture to compensate.

In your case, I think you have a winter setting. So your vehicle's mixture becomes richer than required during summer because of decrease in density (or humidity). Also proper performance and pickup during winters means you're probably running a bit richer because you don't have pickup issues during cold. So the solution should be leaning the mixture a little.

Note: I am no Bullet guru/meteorologist. I am an automotive engineer whos worked a lot with carbureted motorcycles and this is the theory that I believe works. Do verify with experts before you take me seriously. :P

[SuperSlick]

Hi folks, I was just doing some research on RE Engines and maintenance stuff and got this link which has quite a lot of information that might be useful to any one owning a RE bike.

Hope this is useful as it's got all the stuff I guess! Ride Safe!

http://autoparts24x7.com/images/part_manual/