[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by slicvic

Do the small triangles on the RE keys have any function or is it just a design element. Asking because it was there on the previous design of the key too.

Look closely and you will see a small marking on the bottom side of the 'RE Since 1901' logo, which is aligned to the triangle. And the triangle is there just for aligning that sticker.

[SHAHBAAZ]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Kerosine/Diesel and a piece of old soft cloth. Dip the cloth in Kero/Dsl, apply it on the stain and wipe off. If the stain is strong, let the kero/dsl soak it for a couple of minutes and then wipe it with the cloth. Usually it will comes off with moderate pressure. Same can be used to clear chrome from even molten tar stains.

Correctly said, this is the tried and tested formula. and for sure the result is 100%. If you are worried about the metal parts, then go with the Rubbing polish.

[ArizonaJim]

I must agree with the kerosene or diesel fuel and cloth method. The cloth doesn't need to be soft as something like a heavy denim will work even better. The main thing to remember is it should not be dirty.

The chrome plating on many motorcycles is quite thin and the use of an abrasive will wear away what little plating exists. This includes the various "polishes" as they are basically a fine abrasive suspended in a thick fluid.

Once the chrome is gone there is nothing to protect the metal under it from corrosion (rust).

[SuperSlick]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I must agree with the kerosene or diesel fuel and cloth method. The cloth doesn't need to be soft as something like a heavy denim will work even better. The main thing to remember is it should not be dirty.

The chrome plating on many motorcycles is quite thin and the use of an abrasive will wear away what little plating exists. This includes the various "polishes" as they are basically a fine abrasive suspended in a thick fluid.

Once the chrome is gone there is nothing to protect the metal under it from corrosion (rust).

Will kerosene or diesel be helpful in removing 'plastic' that had melted on the hot exhaust pipe? I have a small area right at the start of the exhaust pend pipe

[ArizonaJim]

Kerosene or diesel fuel won't have much if any effect on melted plastic. Petrol won't either.

Something that can dissolve plastic is needed but it depends greatly on the type of plastic that burned onto the part.
I found this on the internet:

Polystyrene dissolves in benzene or toluene.
Polyurethane can dissolve in acetone (CH3)2CO.
Polyethylene is resistant to most organic solvents.

Also worth a try is lacquer thinner, MEK (Methyl Ethel Keytone) and Dichloromethane may work (paint stripper / methylene chloride).

All of these things are toxic to humans and many of them may not be available to the man on the street.

It's been my experience that if left alone, the high temperature of the part usually ends up charring it into something that can be rubbed off with a course rag.

[sahil_mohile]

Could someone please tell me what this part (encirled in red) does. This is an AVL engine, one end of this component is connected to the carburetor & other goes into the cylinder head. I don't know what it's called & searching generically on Google isn't really getting me anywhere.

Thanks & Warm Regards

[ArizonaJim]

That is a the PAV (Pulsed Air Valve).
It provides pulsed blasts of air into the exhaust just outside the exhaust valve to burn any fuel that didn't burn in the combustion chamber.
The PAV system is intended to reduce emissions from the engine.

The hose running to the carburetor provides the signal for the valve to inject the air.

[nemo]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

Here are the pics to explain

The first Pic is My Bike only

Could one of you pls advise what type of Leg guard is best suited for a TB 500...I prefer the single straight bar if doesn't have any negatives.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by nemo

Could one of you pls advise what type of Leg guard is best suited for a TB 500...I prefer the single straight bar if doesn't have any negatives.

Go for a guard which has clamps at the bottom too. Preferably a 'diamond' or 'butterfly' type. The clamp of the single straight is fixed on the circular section of the downtube and will rotate easily on impact.

[Majumdarda]

Hello all,

My Bullet has completed more than 7000 kilometers and I was just wondering if there is any guideline, so that I can know when to replace the Clutch cable. The cable is not giving me any problem what so ever, but I just want to make sure that i have it changed within its life span (rather than getting stranded and then forced to change it)

Please advise.

[dass]

Originally Posted by SuperSlick

Will kerosene or diesel be helpful in removing 'plastic' that had melted on the hot exhaust pipe? I have a small area right at the start of the exhaust pend pipe

Try a nail polish remover.. It normally works on such stuff.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Hello all,

My Bullet has completed more than 7000 kilometers and I was just wondering if there is any guideline, so that I can know when to replace the Clutch cable. The cable is not giving me any problem what so ever, but I just want to make sure that i have it changed within its life span (rather than getting stranded and then forced to change it)

Please advise.

Clutch cable snap can occur any time. My first cable snap occured at 15k and my friend's snapped way too much before that! The snap occurs sometimes with warning and sometimes without it. There will be a slight jerk in the clutch lever action while engaging and disengaging which points to damage in the strands of the cable. Sometimes it works smoothly as usual that we fail to notice it until it snaps. Best method is to route and strap on a spare clutch cable along with the existing cable so that when a snap occurs you can simply connect the spare one. Its a better approach than carrying the cable all the time.

Also, make sure that you cover the exposed ends of the spare clutch cable that you strapped on with a piece of polythene and a rubber band. Moisture/water in the cable can lead to rust and premature failure.

PS: Popping out the clutch cable once in a while and spraying WD40/chain lube/other lubes can lengthen the life of the clutch cable and makes it smoother to operate.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

My Bullet has completed more than 7000 kilometers and I was just wondering if there is any guideline, so that I can know when to replace the Clutch cable.

My Thunderbird 500 has already covered more than 8 k km and my son's Classic 500, more than 17 k km and both are still riding with the original clutch cable. Of course, he carries a spare cable with him just in case. Just check at both the ends of the cable for any damage to the strands. If they are good, then enjoy riding without any worries. Keep both the ends lubricated. But, do carry a spare cable always.

[SHAHBAAZ]

Originally Posted by SuperSlick

Will kerosene or diesel be helpful in removing 'plastic' that had melted on the hot exhaust pipe? I have a small area right at the start of the exhaust pend pipe

It helps. I had a similar situation once when I had pared my bike in one of the city parkings. I had ridden for around 40kms, before parking it. After an hour or two when I returned, a plastic bag was stuck at the front of my Bull. I removed it gently but major part had stuck to the front end of the exhaust pipe. When I reached home, again riding the same distance back, first thing I did was to remove the now molten plastic with a stick. Later when the bike coled down somewhat, I applied keroscene and left it for 30mins. Later got a cloth from my old jeans and rubbed off the dirt. It did not go at first strike, so had to redo the process atleast 3-4 times. Once it was gone, i buffed the surface with rubbing polish (formula1) and later applied Silvo.

[Majumdarda]

Hello guys, please help me in getting a suitable sump guard for my B500. I have read across forums but there is neither some clear pictures available nor any valid instruction set.

From what I have understood, below are some of the points that needs to be looked into before one should go for it

> The metal should be thick enough to act as a barrier for pebbles, rock etc, but should not be too heavy to drag the bike.

> Sump guard will impact the ground clearance. The current gc is 135 mm. So what are we expecting after fitting a sump guard? Grazing all speed breakers and pot holes? How to make sure that purpose is met without much impact on the GC.

> Opening needs to be at the exact location so that engine oil drainage is never a challenge. Else guard has to be removed and then oil drained out.

> Kunal Bike Works and Viaterra have some ready made stock, but I would love to have it fabricated per requirement. What are the things to look into before going into this venture.

> My college time Sleek had the Sump Guard welded to the chassis. What is the best option? Should it be welded to the chassis or bolted temporarily?

> What type of metal should I be looking at (thickness, other details) which will serve the purpose (extreme being Leh) ?


If there are any other open valid points lets discuss out here, so that sump guards are not a hidden mist any more. Also please share some images from actual bike fittings (not the Kunal's or Viaterra's)

Thank you and looking forward for your responses.

Best regards,