[krishnathanthri]

Hi All,

I am planning to buy a Classic 350. I went to a showroom to inquire about the rate and the delivery dates.

The guy there said 10-12 months

Later i called up every dealer in Karnataka and asked about the delivery dates every dealer say's 10-12 months.

Is is possible to get the delivery soon?? Help Please.

Thanks,
Krishna Thanthri

[advaitlele]

Its the same here in Pune. Last weekend I went there to enquire the same with my friend; CL350 is 12 months waiting. Electra / Bullet / Thunderbird is 7-8 months.

I got my Thunderbird delivered in 2 months when I bought last year. CL waiting that time was 4-5 months. So all the best. I bet, wait is worth every moment.

[ricky_1605]

Hey guys new option for the rubber between carb and cylinder head. I got the rubber replaced with a carb rubber of pulsar as i could not find thunderbird rubber anywhere. It is working smooth.

[Rennjit]

Can someone explain the ignition-battery key switch setup of old Std Ci 350's? Some 10yrs back while at college, i was sharing a friend's '90-'92 model for many months & a couple of times i ended up stranded due to slotting incorrect or alternate position of key switch on Rh tool box. It was a fully stock bike (owned by his dad infact)& featured full Dc (not sure whether stock for that period).

I think bike had two(?) key switches- one for sure on RH tool box with two ON positions to either sides of its central OFF position. This was about battery control or so. Second (?) was for ignition placed beneath the tank-seat junction.

I couldn't recollect what exactly the key switch on Rh tool box was for, what were the two ON positions corresponding to etc. All i vaguely remember was that one key position caused the bike to misfire/ stutter at ~40 kph+ speeds. And the battery would die down sooner with headlamp ON then so does the bike. It had some thing do with a fall back kind of ignition setup though of limited capabilities.
Guys having old Std's must know i hope. So clarify.

Newer bikes lack any such back up nor are they fool proof. Had a TCI unit failure on my CI Electra & guess most regular mechs cannot trouble shoot electronics.

[S.I.N.G.H]

greetings to all my fellow members.
i am currently arranging to assemble an enfield. i hope i am posting in correct place. i have managed to source almost all parts. the engine is the one thing i am having a problem in sourcing. can i please get some help in sourcing a 350cc engine in chennai

thanks
namandeep S.I.N.G.H oberoi

[Leepower]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Can someone explain the ignition-battery key switch setup of old Std Ci 350's? Some 10yrs back while at college, i was sharing a friend's '90-'92 model for many months & a couple of times i ended up stranded due to slotting incorrect or alternate position of key switch on Rh tool box. It was a fully stock bike (owned by his dad infact)& featured full Dc (not sure whether stock for that period).

I think bike had two(?) key switches- one for sure on RH tool box with two ON positions to either sides of its central OFF position. This was about battery control or so. Second (?) was for ignition placed beneath the tank-seat junction.

I couldn't recollect what exactly the key switch on Rh tool box was for, what were the two ON positions corresponding to etc. All i vaguely remember was that one key position caused the bike to misfire/ stutter at ~40 kph+ speeds. And the battery would die down sooner with headlamp ON then so does the bike. It had some thing do with a fall back kind of ignition setup though of limited capabilities.
Guys having old Std's must know i hope. So clarify.

Newer bikes lack any such back up nor are they fool proof. Had a TCI unit failure on my CI Electra & guess most regular mechs cannot trouble shoot electronics.

My '78 Bullet has the right-tool box key too. It is connected to ignition. Now the switch in the tank seat junction on my bike is the on/off switch for battery or secret switch. That can be placed under the seat too. So except the owner, who obviously turns it on, no one would be able to start the bike.
And to top it all even the ignition switch switch is off the bike's indicators and horns work. To prevent that batter switch has to be turned off...

[Rennjit]

Can someone help me with these size specs for Ci & Avl 500 cylinders:

1) Outer dia of sleeve at top (o/s spigot step).
2) Outer dia of sleeve at bottom.
3) pitch circle dia (pcd) of mounting studs.

for Ci 350, values are like: 89, 76, 102 mm.

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Can someone explain the ignition-battery key switch setup of old Std Ci 350's? Some 10yrs back while at college, i was sharing a friend's '90-'92 model for many months & a couple of times i ended up stranded due to slotting incorrect or alternate position of key switch on Rh tool box.

As far as I can remember, the three slot switch on the RH tool box was for the ignition. The center was off, the left for ignition on and the right for emergency starting. The key under the seat was for battery charging.

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Can someone help me with these size specs for Ci & Avl 500 cylinders.

Why do you need this? If you are planning to mount the CI cylinder and head on the AVL engine, it can be done.
I see that you are from Coimbatore. Pay a visit to De Silva lathe works at Gandhipuram. Bullet engines from all over the south, come to them for the lathe work.

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by jeeva

As far as I can remember, the three slot switch on the RH tool box was for the ignition. The center was off, the left for ignition on and the right for emergency starting. The key under the seat was for battery charging.

Oh good, Can you pls say how is Emergency start different from normal, Does it require the battery key to be ON?
Newer std's didn't have this feature, wonder why it was deleted.

Why do you need this? If you are planning to mount the CI cylinder and head on the AVL engine, it can be done. ...

Not for Ci on Avl transplant but for a ci350 big bore/sleeve job.

[int3]

Originally Posted by krishnathanthri

Hi All,

I am planning to buy a Classic 350. I went to a showroom to inquire about the rate and the delivery dates.

The guy there said 10-12 months

Later i called up every dealer in Karnataka and asked about the delivery dates every dealer say's 10-12 months.

Is is possible to get the delivery soon?? Help Please.

Thanks,
Krishna Thanthri

I heard that there are brokers in bangalore who will get the bike quickly if you pay them extra money (7 to 10 K)

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Oh good, Can you pls say how is Emergency start different from normal, Does it require the battery key to be ON?
Newer std's didn't have this feature, wonder why it was deleted.

When the key is turned to the left (ignition-position), the current from the alternator goes through the battery and then to the ignition coil. When the key is turned to the right (emergency position), then the current from the alternator goes directly to the ignition coil, bye-passing the battery. The key under the seat was actually supposed to be the earth wire for the battery. So only if you switch it on, the lights, horn and ampere meter works. This was a complete DC system.

The newer ones (I guess post 97/98) came with the AC/DC system, with a much more powerful alternator and towards the end, they had the CDI ignition. The headlights run on AC and the other electricals on DC.

[Rennjit]

So that means battery doesn't receive charge in emergency start even with battery key On. May be i used this combo, drained out battery with headlamp also reducing emergency ignition supply. I had to rely on street lights to get home once post which i learnt this. Funny enough even my friend didn't knew what that extra keyslot was for.

[Spitfire]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Funny enough even my friend didn't knew what that extra keyslot was for.

These were called the once with the UK switch. Don't ask me why.

[KkVaidya]

I have a 2002 Electra. Off-late there has been a major fuel leakage from the fuel cock to the filter line. I tried changed the fuel cock and the tubings but still the problem persisted.
Finally had to take it to an authorized workshop, where they changed the fuel cock & removed the filter. The replaced filter seems is different from what came as OE - seems like its from the newer ones. The problem is solved but i'm worried that removing the filter will chock the carb jets

Can anyone throw some light onto this

[iron]

If you are filling petrol from reputed bunks you need not worry about choking of the carb. If you are still paranoid you can get one fixed from a mech outside.
it hardly costs 20 bucks