[adrian]

In the twin spark engines, the spark plugs are placed in depressed areas with provision for water to drain out if it gets collected around the spark plugs. These drain holes tend to get clogged with dirt in the long run thereby allowing water to get collected around the spark plug causing it to arc. So it might be a good idea to get these vents clean especially during monsoon seasons.
regards adrian

[(Alok)]

Refreshing the thread by talking about 3 box REs again.

I am facing unstable idling issue in my 2001 model AVL machismo. There is an air leak sound from air filter box and engine dies after releasing the choke.

In picture one, please notice the part shown in orange box. What is the function of this part?
There are two pipes are out for air from this orange box, one goes to inlet valve rocker and(shown by green arrow) other one is to air filter (shown by blue arrow) but this box is a totally packed device and there is no way to get the air in. Experts, please explain.
In later models of machismo (AVL) the green arrow pipe was removed. Please guide how to remove on this model?

Second picture is of Air filter. The sponge is in half part only and rest half is open. Is it correct or sponge should cover the hole filter unit.

Thanks

[tharian]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Refreshing the thread by talking about 3 box REs again.

I am facing unstable idling issue in my 2001 model AVL machismo. There is an air leak sound from air filter box and engine dies after releasing the choke.

In picture one, please notice the part shown in orange box. What is the function of this part?
There are two pipes are out for air from this orange box, one goes to inlet valve rocker and(shown by green arrow) other one is to air filter (shown by blue arrow) but this box is a totally packed device and there is no way to get the air in. Experts, please explain.
In later models of machismo (AVL) the green arrow pipe was removed. Please guide how to remove on this model?

Second picture is of Air filter. The sponge is in half part only and rest half is open. Is it correct or sponge should cover the hole filter unit.

Thanks

The orange box is the oil catch can.
It basically is connected to the breather pipe which comes from the head of the engine. It does two things , one is let the engine breathe and the other is to store the excess engine oil which is thrown from the engine, in the can.
On older models, the breather pipe used to be directed onto the chain so it can be lubricated at the same time. Due to certain laws, it was stored in the can and when the can gets full it used to flow into the air filter and drench the air filter with oil , thereby causing the issue you have now.
The other reason for the issue your facing would be the rubber bush between the air filter box and carb has shifted due to a kick back and now has a air leak which will cause this issue as we well.

I would suggest getting rid of the oil can and direct that breather pipe onto the chain and check the air filter box to carb rubber bush for leaks and fit it back properly and yes the air filter needs to be replaced.

[SHAHBAAZ]

Hi Guys,
Hope all are in pink of good health and enjoying their Bull's.

I have few queries regarding the issues I am facing for my 350CL (2013). It has done around 9K in last 10 months. The ride is smooth compared to the other Classics I have ridden on.
But couple of weeks ago, my bike started to give a screeching sound when braked at a lesser speed. After releasing the pedal, it would give a "thug" sound and a minor lag in accleration. No doubt the brake shoes were gone, I took my bike to authorised service center which is very close to my house. The guy said i need to get the shoes replaced(as said earlier). With that I also got the bike serviced as 4th service was due.

Once I recieved my CL(not washed 3rd time in free service), the ride was a bit strange. There was a minor vibration at the foot pegs and gears were a bit hard. During the gear shift either down to up or up to down, there was a thuk sound. Previously the gears were very smooth. Secondly, when ever I applied the brakes, the vibrations increased at the front foot pegs. I thought of riding it for few days and then check how it goes considering the shoes are new and considering the fact that maybe due to clutch setting the gears are a bit hard. However now the vibs have reduced by 50% but the bike feels harder.
Also I would like to ask to the Gurus is, it usually happens when the bike is cold and if the rpm is below 800/1000, the bike gives a clinging sound and sometimes shuts off. But this time around (the second day after the 4th service), my bike gave a very harsh and loud sound during the idle and it stalled as if something broke. But later on after re-cranking the bike, it stayed calm. I thought of taking it to the service center the next morning, but totally forgot for another two days due to office work load. Now the bike runs good but he gears are not that smooth prior to servicing. What should be the problem. I am a bit worried to take it to the service center as the guys at Dhone Automobile (chinchwad, Pune) are very rude.
My third query is regarding the oil change in 2nd & 4th service. The service manual indicates oil change not required but just inspect. Here the service center guy has charged Rs. 950 for 1st, 2nd and 3rd and Rs. 1000 for oil change in 4th service. Also it is to be noted that out of 4 services, I got my bull washed only once. Kindly advice.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by SHAHBAAZ

Once I recieved my CL(not washed 3rd time in free service), the ride was a bit strange. There was a minor vibration at the foot pegs and gears were a bit hard. During the gear shift either down to up or up to down, there was a thuk sound. Previously the gears were very smooth. Secondly, when ever I applied the brakes, the vibrations increased at the front foot pegs. I thought of riding it for few days and then check how it goes considering the shoes are new and considering the fact that maybe due to clutch setting the gears are a bit hard. However now the vibs have reduced by 50% but the bike feels harder.

Sounds like an over tightened chain to me!

My third query is regarding the oil change in 2nd & 4th service. The service manual indicates oil change not required but just inspect. Here the service center guy has charged Rs. 950 for 1st, 2nd and 3rd and Rs. 1000 for oil change in 4th service. Also it is to be noted that out of 4 services, I got my bull washed only once. Kindly advice.

Personally, I think it is better to change the mineral oils every 2700-3000Kms along with the oil filter, only an extra Rs75/- affair.

Originally Posted by tharian

The orange box is the oil catch can.
It basically is connected to the breather pipe which comes from the head of the engine.

In AVLs and CI's the breather pipe is from header? In UCEs it is from the crank case.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

In AVLs and CI's the breather pipe is from header? In UCEs it is from the crank case.

It has been different for different models.

On the CI's, it has been at the normal position which in on the left bottom of the barrel fins. On the 5sp AVL's and CI's, it is from the crankcase or from the timing case(the timing case pipe might be a return pipe from the can) and the older AVL's had it as in the picture.

[SHAHBAAZ]

Finally I received first call from RE in last 10-11 months and that too inquiring about the vehicle performance and Service center feedback.. Hope to get some good treatment ( H O P E )!

[Ananth_shukti]

Hi friends
I own a 2009 RE Bullet Cast iron (CI) engine , have driven about 12K till now mostly from Mysore- Bangalore.
Is it ok to drive the CI engine on Long drives ( Say around 300-400 Kms a day). what should be the break given for cooling as it gets heated very fast & takes lot of time to cool down.
Also it would help few tips on driving CI engine bullet on long drives (like speed, breaks to be given etc) as I read in many forums that the engine seizes quite often.

Thanks
Ananth

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Ananth_shukti

Hi friends
I own a 2009 RE Bullet Cast iron (CI) engine , have driven about 12K till now mostly from Mysore- Bangalore.
Is it ok to drive the CI engine on Long drives ( Say around 300-400 Kms a day). what should be the break given for cooling as it gets heated very fast & takes lot of time to cool down.
Also it would help few tips on driving CI engine bullet on long drives (like speed, breaks to be given etc) as I read in many forums that the engine seizes quite often.

Thanks
Ananth

A 2009 CI350 should not have a overheating issue.
Doing long distance is not a problem on these bikes. If you keep a steady 70-80 km/h and a short break every 100kms or so, the bike will run perfectly well.
If it is overheating, replace the engine oil before the trip and make sure the carb and ignition tuning is right.

[cuteavaya]

I am new to bangalore. I have a 2002 model Bullet Electra. I need the front mudguard painted chrome, change the seat and get a backrest.

Checked with RE service center on Sarjapur road and they dont have any available. Any idea where in bangalore can i get these items.

Any good shops/mechanics with options for seat/backrest and fitment.

PLease help

[maddyg]

Originally Posted by cuteavaya

I am new to bangalore. I have a 2002 model Bullet Electra. I need the front mudguard painted chrome, change the seat and get a backrest.

Checked with RE service center on Sarjapur road and they dont have any available. Any idea where in bangalore can i get these items.

Any good shops/mechanics with options for seat/backrest and fitment.

PLease help

There are few shops in JC road - Sandhya autospares, FIXwell (authorized distributor)

There are few in Shivajinagar as well - Prem motors and another 3 shops behind Prem motors(i don't recollect the name)

[bhagathmp]

I noticed a different tank design on the 2014 model DS500. Not sure if this is across all models, but i felt the newer design to be better built / finished especially around the edges. The awful looking weld is gone. the tank is no longer connected to the down frame, but the frame still sports the holes for previous gen brackets i believe. This I'm comparing with my 2012 March DS to the 2014 March DS my friend picked up few weeks ago.

Question - do you think is possible / good idea to get the older tank replaced with the new one? not sure if there are any other mechanical changes involved.

Regards
Bugs

[Rennjit]

Apparently two types of shoes are available for rear drum brake - one with shorter liner is packed by RE & other of full length liner is by Allied / ANL. Both are made by the latter & is Oem supplier.

Is there any advantage for one over other? like better braking or life. What do you guys use/ prefer?

[SHAHBAAZ]

[quote=man_of_steel;3393997]Sounds like an over tightened chain to me!

Had been to SC last week. Explained the issue but they said its normal among all the RE. On request the SA rode the bike(pathetic SA) and got the clutch reset. Chain setting is perfect so continuing with the ride. It has become a bit smooth now, but yesterday when I had my bike cleaned at my house, I oiled the chain and then kept it on idling for about two mins. Suddenly it gave a loud "Khang" type of sound and stalled. This is the second time that my Bull has done. Later I started it and after a while took a ride.
Previously when this occured, I informed the SA, to which he responded that it the hydraulic pump sound and again its normal when the bike goes below 1000rpm or 800rpm.

Can any of the Gurus let me know if this is normal. Secondly anybody from Pune can you let me know where should I go for regular servicing.

Thanks in advance.

[sahil_mohile]

Hello, I have recently acquired an AVL Thunderbird,2006 model & was planning on changing a few things in it. I came across a thread on an Electra being restored where they changed the cylinder head & bore to a twinspark-
I've copy pasted a section from that thread here:

So, below is the list of upgrades he has in his mind and has purchased some parts for the same.
1) Fuel sender in the tank + Fuel gauge in place of Ammeter
2) Tachometer in place of the ign switch
3) Twinspark in place of de-compressor + Machismo type De-comp if there is a need. His bike has a self start
4) Mudguards & seats of classic 350
5) Illuminated switch console of P-220 + BCU + Indicator cutoff with sensor + wiring
6) Complete painting + chrome + Aluminium buffing
7) BS29 CV carburetor
8) Oval resonator Classic style

LINK:http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...-upgrades.html

I was wondering if the same sort of cylinder modification would be possible for an AVL engine if I fitted the carbureted twinspark head & bore. Would it work?? I was also thinking of installing a starter motor kit, K&N filter with a BS29 carb. Would like your views please.

Regards & thanks